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post #331 of 527 Old 09-29-2009, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happytobehere200 View Post

Yes, I would love to see a pic in your installation to get a sense of the relative size aned how you've located it, if you don't mind. How quiet it is?

Will do.

I have a fan in the top of the cabinet (both sides -- will try to get pics) and that.
All together, you CAN hear the fan noise.
The other fans have voltage switches, so you can adjust the speed/noise.
I bought a heat measuring laser gun (Raytek, MiniTemp MT6 -- will search for that link - I think it is in the DIY forum), so will play around with various devices on/off and fan speed settings.

More later...

Mike
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post #332 of 527 Old 09-30-2009, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happytobehere200 View Post

Yes, I would love to see a pic in your installation to get a sense of the relative size aned how you've located it, if you don't mind. How quiet it is?

HTBH200 -

The cooler has a wall wart with adjustable voltage.
Based on your questions/posts I decreased the voltage to decrease the fan noise.

I had an Emotiva UPA-2 amp located above the Russound amps which increased the heat and decreased the air space/circulation in the cabinet. Without it there (now in office), the cabinet is cooler.

Here is a blurry pic (early morning photo while my son was watching Animal Planet...sorry)....





Mike
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post #333 of 527 Old 09-30-2009, 09:11 AM
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Perfect. Thanks. It's a lot smaller than I thought it was. Glad you took the picture.
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post #334 of 527 Old 10-10-2009, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happytobehere200 View Post

Perfect. Thanks. It's a lot smaller than I thought it was. Glad you took the picture.

You're welcome.
Let me know what you pick up (if anything).
May stop at BB to look at Harmony 900 today.

I stumbled upon this website today and found some interesting pics...
http://www.fox6now.com/marketplace/a...5.photogallery

#55 - I poke badgers with spoons


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post #335 of 527 Old 10-11-2009, 05:13 PM
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Too Funny Mike...
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post #336 of 527 Old 10-13-2009, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post

Hmmm...

Just saw this thread on a planned Emotiva DAC.



Hmmm...


Mike


Addendums:
- estimated cost - $300 - link
- 1 RU high

Per Dann G. @ Emotiva:
LINK

"We are hoping to have it by the end of the year, but that is not a promise."

So, I think I'll see what they offer before purchasing a DAC.
Very cool.

Mike
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post #337 of 527 Old 10-17-2009, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Tony/SOWK told me I need to:
1) improve light control in my room (will work on), and
2) post completed HT pics on post #1 so people can see that latest update without scrolling through everything.

Good points...

So here are some pics of basement rooms with gear and HT from different angles...

Mike

Basement (sparse)



Basement (Bar with Toshiba Regza 42" LCD...and refreshments...)



Basement - HT doors (double doors. One can lock in place in ceiling)
- you can see acoustical treatment on ceiling, walls, and soffits




Basement - Gym (Toshiba Regza 42" LCD, Sam 1500, Oppo 980, WD DVR extender, APC H15, cable box, wireless headphones)

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post #338 of 527 Old 10-17-2009, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Home theater pictures...


HT - from center/rack area behind structural pole
- bottom of ISCOIIIL & CineSlide visible



HT - angle shot
- bass traps in corners
- SVS sub on left front



HT - from center front
- rear av123 speakers visible
- Rives designed, local carpenter (JR) built bookshelves for storage and diffraction. Child-proof locks in bottom are key!
- ISCOIIIL/CineSlide in "off" position in front of JVC RS20 projector



HT - R speaker and look at false/partial wall (electrical box behind)
- old tape from 2.35:1 screen calculations visible
- bass trap (black) in corner
- Carada 2.40:1 screen



HT - angle 2 shot
- av123 side speakers visible
- acoustical treatment on walls, soffits, and corner bass traps visible



Pics on "basic" setting and not optimized to highlight screen (just non-HD football game and commercials on anyway)...

Mike
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post #339 of 527 Old 10-17-2009, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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post #340 of 527 Old 10-19-2009, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm thinking about Audyssey MultEQ Pro kit.
- PC software
- pro mic

Better resolution (32 measures vs. 8) and ability to "see" the results (before/after screens).

Link






Installer Program - gear:


What's included in the Installer Kit?
The Installer Kit includes a calibrated preamplifier, calibrated microphone, microphone stand, MultEQ Pro Application CD, mini-XLR cables, mini-XLR-to-RCA adapter, USB cable, R232 cable, and a carrying bag to hold it all.


General Installer FAQ
FYI...
(I added red. Important things I am/was looking at for using a laptop that might change and knowing the probable "Pro" cost versus buying on my own with the possibility of unlimited tweaking repeats.)

"How much should I charge for an Audyssey MultEQ Pro Calibration?
There is no MSRP for an Audyssey MultEQ Pro® Calibration. Pricing is set by the installera survey of all Audyssey installers found that the average selling price for the calibration is $500. An installer can adjust this price up or down depending on the number of measurements, time spent on the job, and expertise using the software application."

"Can I sell an Installer Kit to a customer? How much does it cost?
An installer may sell an Audyssey installer kit to a customer so he may calibrate his own system. MSRP for the Audyssey Installer Kit is $550."

"Can I install the MultEQ Pro® software application on more than one computer?
Yes. The MultEQ Pro® software application may be installed on multiple computers."

"Can I use the same license for multiple receivers?
No. Each Audyssey Installer-Ready product requires a separate license.

Do License Keys expire?
Yes. Once you purchase a License Key it can be used any time in the next 30 days. If the installation happens after 30 days or if you wish to return to the customer for a re-calibration at a later time, you will have to re-generate a new key (at no cost). This is done by logging in on the Audyssey Installer website and clicking generate new key (under Purchase/Activate MultEQ Pro Licenses)."


Audyssey Installer website: http://www.audyssey.com/InstallerWeb/Home.aspx


Mike
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post #341 of 527 Old 10-21-2009, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Ordered the Audyssey MultEQ Pro kit.
Now I need another RS232 port/link on the front of my rack for my Denon 5308CI.
Hmm, any other linkages I need there?
Link


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post #342 of 527 Old 10-21-2009, 10:35 AM
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Super duper Light control the room yet...

Audyssey MultEQ Pro kit looks great!!!
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post #343 of 527 Old 10-22-2009, 07:29 AM
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If you want me to fully calibrate the RS20 for you with the equipment and properly adj for the correct video levels, let me know, But I would prefer you to have the room fully light controlled by the time I do that.

I know you will be amazed at the difference a fully light controlled room will do for you!

I'm almost 100% certain at this point that’s what’s stopping me from liking the RS20.
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post #344 of 527 Old 10-22-2009, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

If you want me to fully calibrate the RS20 for you with the equipment and properly adj for the correct video levels, let me know, But I would prefer you to have the room fully light controlled by the time I do that.

I know you will be amazed at the difference a fully light controlled room will do for you!

I'm almost 100% certain at this point that's what's stopping me from liking the RS20.

Tony -

Thanks.
Improved "bat caving" is on my to do list.
With the kids in the room, there is almost always some light from somewhere.
We watched Snow White BR last night.
AR 4:3, so you could see differences in the "grey/black bars" on side from projector and from ambient light in room.

I just talked to Full Compass and I have another MA rack RS232 port for my Denon for the Audyssey Pro kit connection.

Giddyup.


Mike

To Do list (short):
- light control
- Audyssey Pro kit
- RS232 MA connection to Denon for Audyssey Pro
- Remote/automation
- clean up the popcorn under the chairs!
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post #345 of 527 Old 10-23-2009, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Interesting...

From dwayland @ TCA:
(emphasis added by me)
LINK

This is hot off the presses, and we dealers don't even have pricing as of yet.

Features:
1. Use 24bit/192KHz high precision DAC chip
2. Use asynchronous sampling chip to raising frequency at 192KHz with lower jitter
3. High precision clock system, it has Reclock function and reduce error code efficiently
4. USB input connect to the PC and realize the hi-fi sound through PC
5. Digital input plus pulse transformer as a good separation
6. Analog balance output
7. Headphone amplifier monitor

Specifications:
1. Dynamic range: (24bit) > 120dB
2. Signal noise rate: > 112dB(RCA); > 125dB(XLR)
3. THD+N: < 0.001%(20Hz-20KHz)
4. Output amplitude: 2VRMS

Main materials:
1. PCM2704 as USB sound card chip
2. PCM1792 24bit/192KHz DAC chip
3. SRC4192 upsamping chip
4. 3pcs OPA2134 op-amps
5. CS8416 digital receiver chip
6. R style transformer



__________________






EDIT:
Pricing:
MSRP - $630 - link from Onix dealer
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post #346 of 527 Old 10-26-2009, 04:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Any opinions on this DAC?

TADAC - Tube Audio Design D/A Converter
Link



TADAC Tube DAC Facts and Features:
  • 30-hours use to break in the tubes etc. - the sound smoothes out rapidly
  • Power: 120VAC only, rear on/off switch, plug-in cord
  • Dimensions: 9" x 7-3/8" x 6" tall
  • Weight: 6-Pounds
  • Designed to match the vintage industrial look of TAD tube amps
  • Select 12AU7 tubes are included. Tight contact gold ceramic sockets - install slowly to prevent bending a tube pin. Use 12AU7, 5814, 5963 tubes. Can leave on all the time without tube life worries. The unique Tube Audio Design analog tube circuit not only sounds out of this world, it is extremely easy on tubes. Perhaps a pair of U7's will last a lifetime in this circuit - time will tell.
  • Large potted toroidal power transformer (the black box on top)
  • Separate DC voltage regulators for all digital & audio circuits
  • Each Power Supply Electrolytic is Film Cap Bypassed
  • One Invisa-Caps in each tube audio circuit (same caps used in the TAD-150 Signature preamp)
  • Data input selector switch in back corner for Optical Toslink or Coaxial-RCA data
  • Gold RCA and true balanced gold XLR Outputs (both types on at same time)
  • Gold RCA Analog Aux inputs directly feed the volume control and tube circuit - the TADAC is a tube preamp too.
  • Analog Aux RCA Input impedance is 10k-Ohms
  • RCA Output impedance is 400-Ohms, XLR Output 75-Ohms
  • Tubes Light Up Blue when audio data is locked on the input
  • 96k max input data speed, Crystal 8414 feeds a 192k 24-Bit Burr-Brown 1793 Advanced Segment Verification Jitter Free D/A chip - a combination that sounds best in this tube design.
  • Connect digital SPDIF (CD Player data) single RCA or Optical Toslink to the TADAC
  • Designed for PC digital audio. PC Windows & Mac computer USB to audio SPDIF data interface adapter needed (the $79 SPIFFY - Sold Here, use to connect your computer).
  • DishDVR optical output plugs directly into the TADAC for the best front 2-channel speaker sound. Free Sirus/XM radio in many Dish packages sounds amazing too.
  • Analog RCA Inputs for iPod Connections, or any analog line source: FM tuner, Phono Stage amplifier etc.
  • Tube/SS Headphone jack for amazing HF sound - does not automatically switch main back outputs off with HF plugged in to keep audio paths short and pure. Designed for regular light load headphones.
    Phase Switches: Useful to determine if a recording is properly phased - singing towards you-in phase, away from you-out of phase. Tip: Bass usually sounds stronger in phase, some recordings are phase balanced - in or out sounds about the same - older recordings tend to reveal phase changes more distinctly - some actually recorded out of phase, a sound board oops. Normal phase is with both switches down. Try one switch in phase, one switch out to create 1950's Orthophonic out of this world stereo sound. The exclusive cutting edge TAD 12AU7 tube analog circuit creates an analog LP 2nd order harmonic revealing sound other D/A converters can not touch. Vocals are clear and rich with detail - words are easy to understand, guitar chords have complexity you never imagined possible, Piano chords have harmonic richness with percussive initial key strikes. Cymbals shimmer with micro-dynamic life. A very FRONT ROW presentation separates the TADAC from others you may have tried. Other D/A converters and CD players smother the recorded harmonics with extensive filter networks to make squeaky clean paper specs. The TADAC has a new generation Burr Brown 192k jitter free high resolution digital chip so pure and analog smooth I'm able to use a unique directly coupled tube audio circuit without filtering to extract recorded 2nd order structures without a hint of digital harshness. At first you might think the TADAC is too detailed, especially new out of the box (needs 30-hours of play time to break in), you might be used to a more harmonically subdued sound. After a few days listening you will realize the TADAC plays like you are with the musicians instead listening from afar.
It looks like it is based in Wheaton, IL!
Close by.
On the sale page - $1499 on sale for $999.
SPIFFY adapter $79 on sale for $44.

Mike

*EDIT*:
User Reviews (@ AudioReview)

Summary:
This 2007 TADAC from Paul Grzybek is his latest invention. Paul develops the circuitry, has an Asian facility manufacture about half the unit, and he finishes each unit on his workbench in his Chicago-area shop. He also offers his designed and hand finished 60 watt tube amps, 100 watt mono-block tube amps, speakers & subs, all described as "stupid-good for the price" in other reviews.

I've got about 15 hours on my TADAC. It sounded great out of the box. The break in is making the difference of allowing the sound stage to come through. The sound stage is getting deeper and wider as the unit gets more hours. Paul recommends a 30 hour break in.

What does Paul Grzybek's hybrid solid state/tube digital/analog converter do? It de-mud-ifies the music. The music is cleaner, clearer, more musical. Single minor instruments like a drummer's wood block sound clear just like a live performance. Diane Shuur's a capella singing in the beginning of one song sounds like I'm in a music hall in the first row with Miss Shuur singing to me. Pinetop Perkin's blues piano is clear and clean and blue. Tommy Castro's driving blues/soul/rock guitar playing is right there. Andras Shiff's playing of the Goldberg Variations has each 32nd note and trill clear and distinct, and when he holds a bass note, I can hear the string's vibrations, not just the sound of the note. When an orchestra's finale ends, I can hear the reverberations in the concert hall. Listing with the TADAC makes me feel like I'm in the concert hall or recording studio hearing all the music the recording engineer put on the disc, and hearing parts of the music that were always there but I never heard before.

I like it. It's the best thing I've done for my music system. It does nothing TO the music...adds nothing and subtracts nothing...what could be better? (And there is no perfect component at any price--they all make some changes to the music, but the less the better.) I also have Paul's TAD-60 tube amplifier. Highly recommended.

Strengths:
Makes the music reproduction the closest to what the recording engineer put on the disc. Very, very close to being in the recording studio or live venue listening to the music.

Connects to any digital signal with a coax or optical digital port...CD, satellite radio tuner, Sangean HDT-1X HD/AM/FM Radio Component Tuner, PC USB data converter, or home theater DVD.

Weaknesses:
None found
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post #347 of 527 Old 10-26-2009, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

If you want me to fully calibrate the RS20 for you with the equipment and properly adj for the correct video levels, let me know, But I would prefer you to have the room fully light controlled by the time I do that.

I know you will be amazed at the difference a fully light controlled room will do for you!

I'm almost 100% certain at this point that's what's stopping me from liking the RS20.

Maybe I'm missing something here but I "Know" Mike's RS20 has already been professionally calibrated since I was there when it was getting done and I believe so were you if I'm not mistaking. Also seems like you were giving me crap back then when I said that I didn't think the RS20 was a bad looking machine so what's with the turn of opinions? Jeez I go away for a little while and the whole world gets turned upside down .

Oh by the way Mike it was good seeing you this weekend and Dave G. here in Madison did a great job with some touchup calibration on the Marantz 15s1, he will come back at some point and do greyscale.
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post #348 of 527 Old 10-28-2009, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funlvr1965 View Post

Maybe I'm missing something here but I "Know" Mike's RS20 has already been professionally calibrated since I was there when it was getting done and I believe so were you if I'm not mistaking. Also seems like you were giving me crap back then when I said that I didn't think the RS20 was a bad looking machine so what's with the turn of opinions? Jeez I go away for a little while and the whole world gets turned upside down .

Oh by the way Mike it was good seeing you this weekend and Dave G. here in Madison did a great job with some touchup calibration on the Marantz 15s1, he will come back at some point and do greyscale.

I still don't like the look of Mike's RS20 currently... That hasn’t changed, but I think it has come down to lighting in the room, topped off with crushed whites and black levels. I can also see shadow puppets on his screen with the projector off... But he did have the equipment door off.

He's working on light control now. I had calibrated an RS10 in a 100% light controlled room and felt that was much better then my viewing of the RS20 in Mike's HT currently.

But I know I will like the RS20 a lot more once Mike light controls the room 110% (Including black electrical tape over the plug in wall surge protectors.) lol.

I was not there for the calibration or Craig would not have left it that way... (Crushed Whites/Blacks)

Also Front Projectors need calibration every 300+ hours or so to keep their settings, the bulbs drift, and sometimes they can drift a lot. On the Marantz VP-11S2 from 100 hours on the bulb to 150 hours red drifted 5%.

How do you like your the Marantz VP-15S1 vs the Marantz VP-11S2 or Planar?
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post #349 of 527 Old 10-28-2009, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post

Ordered the Audyssey MultEQ Pro kit.
Now I need another RS232 port/link on the front of my rack for my Denon 5308CI.
Hmm, any other linkages I need there?
Link


Mike

Back from trip last night.
Pro kit and Full Compass RS232 port/link for rack sitting on desk.
Now, when to install and utilize?
Usually the weekend, but I have a Badger game on Sat and relatives over for Vikings/Packers watching on Sun.

Mike
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post #350 of 527 Old 10-28-2009, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post

Back from trip last night.
Pro kit and Full Compass RS232 port/link for rack sitting on desk.
Now, when to install and utilize?
Usually the weekend, but I have a Badger game on Sat and relatives over for Vikings/Packers watching on Sun.

Mike

Just don't sleep Mike... 6 am on Saturday!
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post #351 of 527 Old 10-28-2009, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

I still don't like the look of Mike's RS20 currently... That hasn’t changed, but I think it has come down to lighting in the room, topped off with crushed whites and black levels. I can also see shadow puppets on his screen with the projector off... But he did have the equipment door off.

He's working on light control now. I had calibrated an RS10 in a 100% light controlled room and felt that was much better then my viewing of the RS20 in Mike's HT currently.

But I know I will like the RS20 a lot more once Mike light controls the room 110% (Including black electrical tape over the plug in wall surge protectors.) lol.

I was not there for the calibration or Craig would not have left it that way... (Crushed Whites/Blacks)

Also Front Projectors need calibration every 300+ hours or so to keep their settings, the bulbs drift, and sometimes they can drift a lot. On the Marantz VP-11S2 from 100 hours on the bulb to 150 hours red drifted 5%.

How do you like your the Marantz VP-15S1 vs the Marantz VP-11S2 or Planar?


I will leave the debate as to whether or not Craig did his job or not between you and him , I can't answer that question because admittedly I am NOT a certified calibrator by any means but it looked good to me when I was there. As for the Marantz over the planar, I am very happy to be back with Marantz, I thought I communicated this to you a while back but maybe Im mistaken. The overall clarity and lens quality is noticeably better with the 15S1 over the Planar, The brightness in the planar is nice but the iris in my opinion still has issues which led me to turn it off. I was fortunate to be able to find a demo 15S1 (160 hrs) that a dealer was selling and I was able to buy it for $4200 shipped to my door with the 3 year warranty. This is the long throw lens option which makes the lens even more expensive. I will be holding onto this for a while. We just bought a new car so for now projector upgrading is on hold but very nice to be back with Marantz.
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post #352 of 527 Old 10-28-2009, 01:46 PM
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I knew about the marantz vs planar thoughts, didn't know you turned off the iris on the planar though. But what are your feelings about the 15S1 vs the 11S2?

Craig did do his Job and very well too. He just didn't play with the settings in the JVC that allow BTB and WTW to be displayed. Thats all.

But its little tweaks like this that allow video displays to be at their maximum. Not just good from a technical standpoint.
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post #353 of 527 Old 10-28-2009, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

I knew about the marantz vs planar thoughts, didn't know you turned off the iris on the planar though. But what are your feelings about the 15S1 vs the 11S2?

Craig did do his Job. He just didn't play with the settings in the JVC that allow BTB and WTW to be displayed. Thats all.

I think the two are pretty comprable, with that said im sure the 11S2 has tricks up its sleeve that the 15s1 doesnt but with the cost difference it should. Ansi on both units are around the 1000 mark with the coatings that come standard with the long throw lens option and recently with the standard throw lens as I had with my 11S2. I would say that they are hard to tell without having them side by side playing the same material.
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post #354 of 527 Old 10-28-2009, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Wayne -

Do you know the Lumagen RadianceXE setting that makes the side black bars "blacker" for 4:3 material (eg Snow White BR) that you mentioned.

I didn't notice it in a quick perusal of the XE manual tonight.

Opened up the Audyssey Pro kit, realized I needed to order some RS232 cables (Monoprice) before doing my MA rack workaround (funlvr1965-style ).
Registered on installer site.
Looks a good deal more complicated then just using the AVR.
Will likely get to next week.

More later...

Mike


*EDIT*
Answer from AVS Lumagen Radiance forum:
LINK

Graybar Intensity
NOTE:
Consult a home theater specialist for assistance setting the graybar intensity.

Some degree of burn-in will occur on any susceptible display, but this command can help minimize it by allowing the intensity of the graybars to be adjusted.

The command format is:
MENU => Output => Configs => [Config] => Other => Graybar => (Sides, Top/bottom)
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[quote=Mike_WI;17437598]Wayne -

Do you know the Lumagen RadianceXE setting that makes the side black bars "blacker" for 4:3 material (eg Snow White BR) that you mentioned.

I didn't notice it in a quick perusal of the XE manual tonight.

Opened up the Audyssey Pro kit, realized I needed to order some RS232 cables (Monoprice) before doing my MA rack workaround (funlvr1965-style ).
Registered on installer site.
Looks a good deal more complicated then just using the AVR.
Will likely get to next week.

More later...

Sorry Mike all my lumagen work is done by Dave G. send him a pm he hangs over on the video processor site in the Lumagen threads. Yea the pro kit can be a handful thats why the installers get trained to work with it, good luck with it I'm sure you will keep us posted
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post #356 of 527 Old 10-29-2009, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post

Back from trip last night.
Usually the weekend, but I have a Badger game on Sat and relatives over for Vikings/Packers watching on Sun.
Mike

Mike.

Off topic but how are you feeling about the Favre return? I sold my tickets for the game 4 days before he annouced his return, although I'm not sure I would have gone anyway, but for me personally, I'd like to see him throw a ball at Ted Thompson's booth.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happytobehere200 View Post

Mike.

Off topic but how are you feeling about the Favre return? I sold my tickets for the game 4 days before he annouced his return, although I'm not sure I would have gone anyway, but for me personally, I'd like to see him throw a ball at Ted Thompson's booth.

Ha!

I'm actually not that huge of a sports fan (despite getting excited for Camp Randall Badger game on Sat), but I would actually put Favre in the category of popular media/personalities.

I'm originally from MN and my brother and cousin (Minnesotans living in Madison, WI) are coming over Sun to watch the game.
Even for a relatively care free watcher (me), the added emotion around the game adds some fun. My relatives are much more sports addicted/interested.

I bet you could have gotten more for your ticket now then when you sold them!


Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post

Ha!

I'm actually not that huge of a sports fan (despite getting excited for Camp Randall Badger game on Sat), but I would actually put Favre in the category of popular media/personalities.

I'm originally from MN and my brother and cousin (Minnesotans living in Madison, WI) are coming over Sun to watch the game.
Even for a relatively care free watcher (me), the added emotion around the game adds some fun. My relatives are much more sports addicted/interested.

I bet you could have gotten more for your ticket now then when you sold them!


Mike

I could have probably paid for 2 seasons worth of tickets..... I've been to a lot of special Packer games, just not sure if I was there if I'd feel as good about it so better to stay home..... I've got 60"s of Sony to watch it on in the family room portion of my basement and a lot to drink while I do plus no 5 hour drive home so that's what I'll be doing on Sunday....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happytobehere200 View Post

I could have probably paid for 2 seasons worth of tickets..... I've been to a lot of special Packer games, just not sure if I was there if I'd feel as good about it so better to stay home..... I've got 60"s of Sony to watch it on in the family room portion of my basement and a lot to drink while I do plus no 5 hour drive home so that's what I'll be doing on Sunday....

Sounds like a plan!


You might find this Vikings blog amusing:
Eaten Purple People (Tim Olson blog at Star Tribune)

Post #1 is funny:
Welcome to Eaten Purple People (9-8-09)

Post #2 is especially pertinent to Sunday...
Eaten Purple People - Today's Rant (9-10-09)

From that post (read the whole thing to get the full flavor...):

So to recap - here is my advice on how to pre-screen your colleagues in what should be an awesome but emotionally confused season:
(a) Purple non-Favre = One of Us.
(b) Purple Favre = at least it's the right color, but for now I don't trust you and I probably won't like you.
(c) Green Favre = sorry your childhood hero plays for us now - here's $5 towards your new team attire
(d) Green non-Favre = get out of our stadium - enjoy the return of Lynn Dickey's number as your quarterback. It's tricky, but remember I-94 goes two ways. You want to go east.

---------------------------------------

Mike
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I installed another RS232 front port (to Denon 5308CI AVR) in the the Middle Atlantic MA UNI-1C plate.



Now ready to play with the Audyssey Pro Kit (when I have time).

New Lumagen FW update available now too with lots of updates (for the previous RS232 port...):

LINK



Production 102509-
  • Added PiP for analog inputs with the limitation that if the main window is an analog source then the PiP can either be the same analog source or an HDMI source. If the main window is an HDMI source then the PiP can be any source.
  • Added a new "Memory Usage" option in the menu under Other:Memory Usage. Previously when you select a memory (A-D) you are using it across all inputs, .ie if you're on input 1A, change to input 2 and press 'MemB' and change to input 1, you'll be using 1B. We've called this the 'common' memory usage mode since the memory in use is common across all inputs. Now you can set the memory usage to be per-input, so if you're on input 1A and change to input 2 then press 'MemB' and change back to input 1, you'll go back to 1A---it remembers the memory you're on for each input. Either mode can be used and it depends on what you use the memories for as to which you might prefer. For example, if you're using memA for settings adjusted to daytime ambient settings and memB for nighttime then you'll probably want to stick with the default 'common' mode.
  • Added aspect and memory control for the PiP window. Now pressing the aspect or memA-D buttons after PiP select or mode have been pressed sets the aspect or memory for the PiP window--note that if you're not using the new per-input memory usage setting then changing the PiP memory also changes the main windows memory. Auto-aspect also works for the PiP now. Note that for the PiP window the 'Letterbox' aspect, which is defined to be an aspect greater than 4:3 within a 4:3 aspect, is just treated as 4:3 (so you'll see bars on top and bottom) and similarly the '2.35' aspect, which is defined to be 2.35 inside a 16:9 aspect, is just treated as 16:9 (so again top/bottom bars are visible).
  • Added a label to the PiP window that displays it's input name for a few seconds when the PiP is accessed with PiP remote buttons like PiP select, mode, etc..
  • Added a power on input selection option to the menu under Other:OnOff Setup:Input Select. With this you can control which input the unit powers up on after either power is removed or after standby.
  • Added a small reminder in the menu when settings have been changed to help remember if you should 'Save' before powering down.
  • Several bugfixes and some minor additional menu enhancements.
Mike
LL
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