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post #751 of 775 Old 08-29-2015, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Update on the above. ^ ^ ^

As it turns out, I needed to make some changes in the way I played the Moody Blues disc, though there was no problem before.

Having the Pioneer 09 output set to "2 Channel" already, I went into the speaker setup and found that the L/R, center and surrounds were all set to "Large." I turned off everything but the L/R setting and tried the disc again. No changes I could hear. Then it hit me that the Pioneer's "DTS Downmix" feature is set to "2 Channel"; I'd been selecting Dolby Digital 2.0 in the disc's menu. So I set the disc to play at DTS 5.0, which meant the player would downmix to two channels. Immediately, the sound was both louder and fuller, with even more bottom. The musical details I wasn't hearing before were more audible, though perhaps still not quite up to the LS3. But I think I could live with that. And the hall ambience is back; it sounds like the Moodies are playing in a concert hall again (which the Royal Albert Hall is).

So I intend to put things back the way they were, with the Transparent ICs doing preamp-to-power amp duty and re-installing the Kimber Hero on the Pioneer. I may put those JJ tubes back into the 2300 just to see what happens. Either way, I'm going to pull the second pair of Mullards out of the MM section to keep as backups and re-insert the stock tubes there. This means the return of the Aragon (nice movie title) phono stage to the system. That would mean I'd need five pairs of Transparent ICs if I go that route. The question is would it be Plus or MusicLink, assuming the Kimber Hero and +3 on the bass trim of my 2300 doesn't cut it anymore.

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post #752 of 775 Old 09-11-2015, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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This is strange. I have a DVDO iScan Duo VP, which I've been using for a few years. Four sources plug into it (cable box, LD, two BD players). The system is plugged into two Furman units: the Elite-15PFi and the SPR-20i; the Elite is plugged into the SPR, so everything is either plugged into the Elite or into the SPR directly. Last night I'd removed the C2300 preamp from my setup to change out tubes. Having done that, I put the 2300 back. But when I plugged it in, I lost my cable feed immediately. I had a blank blue screen with no sound. No pops or noises, it just . . . happened.

I'd been watching the news and was listening to what was going on. Normally nothing is on when I plug/unplug anything, but I was engaged with the news. Whether turning things off would have mattered, I don't know for sure. Now, the Duo doesn't recognize the cable box and back-up BD inputs (or others). I get the dreaded red LED, which means no signal. Oddly, the inputs with the main BD and LD players don't have a problem. I rebooted the VP, the back-up BDP and the cable box. No joy.

I may try a few more things, but I'm thinking about replacing the Duo if I can't resolve things soon rather than try getting it fixed because replacing it is quicker. Though discontinued, it's still available. BUT, there's the Lumagen Radiance 2124/2144. Much more money, but it would offer 4K upscaling in case my Kuro dies and I go for a 4K TV. It's supposed to be better than the Duo, but not over 2X plus as good I don't think. And a bigger learning curve

What I wonder is what happened exactly. It seems to have been some sort of surge or feedback which tweaked the Duo VP when the 2300 was plugged in. I might have not plugged the 2300 into the same outlet it was in before; maybe the caps I put on the unused connections of the 2300 made a difference; I don't know. But the "PF" in the Elite-15PFi name stands for "Power Factor," and there are four outlets which carry a 45A current reserve for amplifiers. Two are occupied by my 501s. I probably plugged the preamp into one of those rather than back into one of the A/V outlets, which is where I think it was at first. So lacking any other explanation, I believe this is the most reasonable scenario.

I remember a couple years back I had the SPR plugged into one of the Elite's PF outlets, and whenever the air conditioner's compressor kicked in, the system was shut down due to a line surge. Plugging the Elite into the SPR instead solved the problem.

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post #753 of 775 Old 09-12-2015, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Decision made, after a bit of angst. I've ordered another Duo VP.

I'd considered the Lumagen Radiance 2144 because of the 4K upscaling, which would future-proof me if my Kuro went down and I bought a 4K TV (a 55" flat OLED would be the ideal, and they're on the way from LG), plus it has more options for tweaking a TV's picture; it is better than the Duo overall. But again, I didn't think the improvements were enough (based upon my research) to justify the much greater expense. And this time of year is a bad time for such a large discretionary expenditure, what with the holidays coming and other things I want/need to do.

The Duo is more than sufficient for my current needs and system. I got it at a tremendous discount also, so that made it easier. It's much simpler to operate than the Lumagen and I'm already familiar with it, so I took the chance and sprung. Of course, if the Kuro does die and I get a 4K set the Duo's useless (unless everything's set to pass through with no processing), but that's a chance I'm taking.

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post #754 of 775 Old 10-08-2015, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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The Duo arrived a while back, is in place, and functioning. It's a different version than the previous one, as this new one has ISF capability. It tends to be a bit more emphatic about HDCP messages, too. That's annoying. They go away, at least.

I've also taken a plunge and put in some new interconnects, replacing the Kimber Hero on my 09 BD player and SACD player with Transparent Audio Plus ICs. A difference has been made. The sound is smother than with the Kimbers, that's the main difference. The Plus ICs are, I believe, a heavier gauge than the Kimbers which might account for the occasional details on some familiar CDs I didn't notice before. They're supposed to be good at noise rejection, too. Anyway, I like them. I don't know if I'll get more for the less-important sources (LD, TT, tuner), but if so it may not be anytime soon.

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post #755 of 775 Old 10-14-2015, 03:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday I put in two new power cords, a Wireworld Electra 7 on my preamp and a Stratus 7 on my 09 BD player. They replaced a WW Aurora 5.2 and Stratus 5.2 respectively.

There was an improvement in sound. Using extremely familiar material, cymbals sounded more natural and crisp, and there was an overall tighter presentation. I was also more ware of dynamics, as the weight of the sound was more obvious. The WW Aurora is silver-coated OFC; the Electra is OCC; maybe that accounts for it. I prefer all-copper, I think.

I was mildly amazed at the improvement, but not surprised necessarily; when I replaced Aurora 5.2s with Electra 5.2s on my amps a while back there was an improvement. Not night and day (to me), but enough to notice.

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post #756 of 775 Old 10-19-2015, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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On Saturday I moved the whole system forward about 7 inches, to give me better access to the rear. The photo is dark, but you can still see the increased space behind the system. Now to continue setting everything up. And maybe learning how to lightening things up with the camera.
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post #757 of 775 Old 10-25-2015, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Last night I heard this amazing twelve year-old playing Monk with the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra. He KILLED it.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=u...r+jazz+pianist
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post #758 of 775 Old 11-26-2015, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been having a problem with IEC connectors not fitting snugly. I've attached photos of the problem and the current solution. The first photo shows two Wireworld Stratus cords (the blue ones) drooping at the IEC connection. The other two show my current solution of velcro strips, normally used for interconnects. Where the power cord has enough slack, I can manipulate it into a good position then use the strip to bind the cord to either the shelf pillars (photo 2) or the rack's cable management system (photo 3).

Does anyone have these issues with IEC connectors? I remember reading in The Absolute Sound a while back when one person wrote in about this very issue.
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post #759 of 775 Old 12-05-2015, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Though the new Star Wars movie is imminent, I have more interest in these right now, though not due until next year:

http://batmanvsuperman.dccomics.com

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post #760 of 775 Old 12-11-2015, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prepress View Post
Though the new Star Wars movie is imminent, I have more interest in these right now, though not due until next year:

http://batmanvsuperman.dccomics.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVdV-lxRPFo
Yeah! I hear ya on that. I'm still debating going out to the theater vs waiting for it on Bluray. Superman vs. Batman and the new Cap look like fun

On another note , did you find a solution for the cables fitting snugly?
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post #761 of 775 Old 12-11-2015, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Yeah! I hear ya on that. I'm still debating going out to the theater vs waiting for it on Bluray. Superman vs. Batman and the new Cap look like fun

On another note , did you find a solution for the cables fitting snugly?
There are excellent adapters made by VooDoo Cable. They grip like a vise, as I understand it from a reliable source. The fanciest go for about $150; the basic one for $69 or so. But before I go there, I'm sticking with my current approach for now. It's working.
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post #762 of 775 Old 12-11-2015, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
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There are excellent adapters made by VooDoo Cable. They grip like a vise, as I understand it from a reliable source. The fanciest go for about $150; the basic one for $69 or so. But before I go there, I'm sticking with my current approach for now. It's working.
I can think of better things to do with a $150 bucks as well Glad a solution presented itself so that way you can get back to enjoying some tunes!
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post #763 of 775 Old 12-14-2015, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I can think of better things to do with a $150 bucks as well Glad a solution presented itself so that way you can get back to enjoying some tunes!
And I have some to play. Plus, there's a new record store—yes, record store—in my neighborhood, only a couple of blocks away. That's dangerous. Maybe when I get back from vacation I'll check it out.
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post #764 of 775 Old 12-14-2015, 11:24 AM
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And I have some to play. Plus, there's a new record store—yes, record store—in my neighborhood, only a couple of blocks away. That's dangerous. Maybe when I get back from vacation I'll check it out.
Couple of blocks! that would be a problem for me but I sure miss the days when they were around like that. I order everything on-line these days but miss the trips to the music store.
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post #765 of 775 Old 01-03-2016, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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I saw The Force Awakens Tuesday, while in Nashville ($5 plus tax!). I thought, why not?

To take it in best, I should see it a second time probably. I thought it was good.
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post #766 of 775 Old 01-17-2016, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, the two attached adapters are on the way.

Though my current solution works, it bothers me to see and know how loosely they fit (I know, I shouldn't go behind the system). The Pangea adapters in use aren't gripping firmly, hence these two VooDoo adapters. Less than $100 for both, so we'll see how they do. The C7 is for the LD player, the 15A to 20A is for my Furman SPR.
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post #767 of 775 Old 01-30-2016, 03:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, the adapters arrived and are installed. The C7 doesn't appear to be that much better than the Pangea it replaces. To truly test this though, I may need to remove the velcro tie holding the power cord up.

The 15A–20A adapter is another story. Much better grip than the Pangea. there's almost no movement when I try tweaking it. Very nice.

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post #768 of 775 Old 02-14-2016, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided that, since my LD player's IEC is grounded, I'd order a polarized C7 from VooDoo to try there. The connectors are the same as the non-polarized version, I'm sure, but the polarized casing has a different shape, as many know. Perhaps that'll make a difference.

I could put the PS Audio Jewel C7 back on the LD, also. But I want to give the adapter route another chance.

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post #769 of 775 Old 03-13-2016, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, the polarized C7 came, and it doesn't do much better than the non-polarized one. Oh well.

Meantime, I've installed the famous Gold Lion tubes in the line section of my C2300. I put in 2:37 on them yesterday, and the system is running as I type.

I don't think I'll be doing much more with this preamp. Either the GLs, once broken in, will nail it, or I may well move on to something else and sell/trade the 2300; its successor would be McIntosh's new C52 at this point. The C47 would be a lower-cost option, though I'd be giving up some features. Still, first up is to see how these Gokd Lions perform.

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post #770 of 775 Old 03-20-2016, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Bummer. The C2300 failed last night. I had turned it on via the power button, only to have it cut off after a split second. The LED stand-by went off as well. Tried rebooting the unit by unplugging then re-plugging it. No success.

I have an e-mail off to McIntosh; we'll see what happens. This is much like what happened about three years ago, with the power cutting out, except the unit was in operation then, not being turned on as last night.

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post #771 of 775 Old 03-25-2016, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Wednesday I took the 2300 to a repair center, on East 31st in Manhattan. It seems most of the high-end stores I'm aware of send their repairs there (Park Ave. Audio, Stereo Exchange, and Lyric Hifi all do). Yesterday, the service center called, and it's not good. The microprocessor board is pretty much shot, the result of electromagnetics most likely. This time of year is bad as the air can be dry and static electricity can be a problem; it's a big one here, and the 2300 has been zapped in the past.

They've replaced the board and are running tests and will let me know what's what. Cost for the board is $840 without anything else; all added up, I could be looking at close to $1300.

Moral: use the remote. I usually do, even if in front of the 2300. Now, I'll be SURE to, especially during the colder months when static is a problem.

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post #772 of 775 Old 04-01-2016, 01:59 PM
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I like the new cables! Yes, very dangerous to a have a record store only a few blocks away. I would be getting into a lot of trouble.

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And I have some to play. Plus, there's a new record store—yes, record store—in my neighborhood, only a couple of blocks away. That's dangerous. Maybe when I get back from vacation I'll check it out.



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post #773 of 775 Old 04-17-2016, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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The C2300 returned to its spot on 4/5. Cost was $1300, including $10 for gas for my friend who drove me to pick up the preamp.

I got it set up, connected and plugged it in. Nothing. Going around the back, i saw the power cord IEC had drooped enough to lose connection. I reseated it, and still nothing. then, I reseated both the cord and the velcro strip, and voila! Success. But I was bummed out by the episode.

Still kicking around options on this. I realize that as a bit of a perfectionist/completist, I don't like the idea or look of the drooping power cords whether they lose connection or not. I'm recovering from the 2300's repair cost, but am thinking about what to do going forward. Velcro strips are on the most egregious culprits, and it's working. Not the most elegant solution, though.

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post #774 of 775 Old 08-13-2016, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Haven't been here in a while. The power cord droop saga continues, but I've found that photographic tape, which leaves no residue, helps. I'd hate to replace all the cords with new ones. I may experiment, though. I'm considering Transparent and Kimber cords mostly, since that's what I use for interconnects. There's also Pangea, the latest of which are said to have a "death grip" on the IEC. The Wireworld cords i have now aren't flexible horizontally; that would help with their positioning to ease any droop due to the weight of the power cord. I took the preamp cord and routed it around the right rear pillar of its shelf, and that's improved things a bit. With the LD player, there's still droop, but the IEC connection seems stable.

Another discovery is that, surprise, there are differences in how interconnects affect sound sometimes. I've discovered this since going to a McIntosh C2300 tube preamp, currently with JJ ECC803G tubes. With Kimber Hero ICs, the upper end had a nice bite to the brass, for example, on the Atlanta Symphony Orchestra's Copland: Appalachian Spring CD (Telarc). But when I put Transparent Plus ICs on, that bite was not as pronounced; still satisfying, though. However, on some brightly recorded 60's pop CDs, the Kimber was a bit too bright; the Transparent had a better handle on this, though the sound was still bright (that's the way the CDs are, unfortunately). With my previous preamp I didn't notice this kind of thing too much, as the few differences I heard were quite unremarkable. But then, I didn't have Transparent Plus IC when I was using my previous preamp; I had Audioquest King Cobra along with the Kimber Hero.

VPI, Grado, SME, Pioneer Elite, Magnum Dynalab, Oppo, DVDO, McIntosh, JJ, Mirage, Kimber, Transparent, MIT, Pangea, Wireworld, Shunyata, PS Audio, Furman, Sanus, Conntek, VooDoo
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Back to having fun I see! Since switching over to Morrow Audio cables (speaker & interconnects) around 5 years ago (replacing mostly AQ) I've only found they strike the right musical balance in my setup. I have two Pangea's ones an AC9 and the other an AC9 SE , they don't hold as well as the PS Audio powercables I have everywhere else on the components themselves but both about the same at the wall.
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