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post #1 of 35 Old 07-03-2014, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Mr. Hatcher's hybrid-HT

A Toast,

I’d like to start this thread off by extending my many thanks to everyone whom has guided me along my journey to creating my first “real” hybrid-HT. I’ve gained a lot of knowledge and insight from the many articles I’ve read and individuals I’ve had the pleasure of conversing with. I hope to continue to learn as much as possible about the art of HT and grow wiser within the AVS and HT community. I couldn’t have done it without you all.

Cheers everyone! If you’re ever in Tallahassee, hit me up and I’ll buy you a proper round.


~The Thunderdome~


Budget:
</=$20,000.00 USD
Note: I paid way under MSRP for most of the items in my HT so if you decide to duplicate my setup, YMMV cost wise.

Room Dimensions:
Length: 16’
Width: 12’
Height 1 (ceiling): 9’
Height 2 (vaulted ceiling): 10’
Lens:Screen = 12’6” (The dnp recommended minimum lens throw ratio is 1.8:1 for the HG23 material, which equals around 15’7” for 120” screen, so I’m ~3’ short of that mark. That being said, hotspotting is minimal and only noticeable with really bright content.) download SpecSheet_SupernovaBlade.pdf

The Room:







Without Ambient Light (THX, Low Lamp):










With Ambient Light (Custom 2, High Lamp):







Bulb Hours & Software Version Shot:


Equipment:
- Projector: JVC DLA-X700R
- Projector Mount: Pearless PRG-EXC
- Screen: dnp Supernova Blade, HG23 (2.3 gain) 120” 16:9
- Speakers (LF/RF/C): Soundfield Audio M1 Monitors & Center Note: I originally purchased the Kef Q100’s and Q200c. I wanted to switch to sealed self-powered monitors so I had AJ from Soundfield Audio repurpose the Uni-Q array drivers into his M1 configuration with upgraded TC Sounds 8” drivers. These things rock! All while remaining very tight and balanced with a wide sound stage and excellent imaging. Sibilance is non-existent. Kudos to AJ for the excellent speakers and customer service! His passion for audio is clearly defined in his craftsmanship.
- Speakers (LR/RR): Kef Q800ds (dipole surrounds)
- Subwoofer: Rythmik Audio FV15HP (Direct Servo)
- AVR: Sony STR-DN1040
- Blu-ray Player: Oppo BDP-103D
- Darbee: DVP5100CIE with phaseHD Note: I don’t have this product yet, but it should be arriving soon.
- Power Center/UPS: SurgeX XU115
- DirecTV: Genie
- Custom Gaming HTPC
- Remote: Logitech Harmony Touch

Equipment Settings:
- BDP:
- AVR:
- PJ:






Furniture:
- A/V Cabinet: BDI Casata 8627 (black stained oak)
- Media Storage & Speaker Pedestals (black)): SEI
- HT Seating: Seatcraft Madera w/ LED Lighting (black microfiber)

Light Control:
- I went as dark as I could (WAF) with everything in the room in order to minimize room reflections.
- Flat Black Tray Ceiling & Front Wall
- 4 x Cellular Blackout Blinds (black)
- Used electrical tape to cover most of the LED lights on my A/V equipment

Coming Soon…:
- 4 x Wireless ButtKickers
- Fiber-optic Star Ceiling (12’ L x 8’ W - Black Velvet Panels)
- 2 x Center-open Motorized Curtain Rods on each 16’ side wall w/ Black Velvet Curtains
- 4 x Directional eyeball spotlights (replacing the current can lights that diffuse light everywhere)
- Install a couple dimmer switches for the spotlights
- Relocate the two electrical receptacles for the front L/R speakers in order to hide the power cables behind the pedestals.

Some items to note:
- General: this is a multi-purpose family/home theater room (hybrid-HT). I didn’t want to create an environment that split the family up and I wanted a 120” display for primary viewing that my wife & I could watch all the time, in the same room together. In the future when I have the space and money, I will build a nice rear projection setup, unless OLED is affordable in large screen sizes by that time.
- Audio: the room is open on the right to the kitchen & dining room and there is a sliding glass door on the left wall, as well as two windows on the rear wall. I’m aware that room acoustics could be better, but this is what I have to work with. There are no audible distortions, even at extremely high volume levels. The house is built very solid. The windows rattle a little, but not enough to be distracting. The entire theater seating shakes like crazy, so I know the subwoofer is working really hard.
- Video: the room isn’t a total bat cave with black velvet everything and I don’t have a perfect Lambertian diffuser white screen. I’m aware that I’m not getting the absolute “best” picture quality my projector is capable of providing me, but again this what I have to work with.



Now that I have the asset list out of the way, I can get down to business and let you know how it all performs. To summarize in one word, PHENOMENAL! I know I know, it better for as much money as I spent but remember, this is about the best midrange HT one could build for under $20K without buying used or going the DIY route (my stuff is all brand new). I’ve done years of research and been through much trial and error leading up to this point and am confident I couldn’t have done much, if any better, for less money.

Aesthetics played a major role in my decision making process as well. I wanted my HT to look as good turned off as it does turned on, as this is in my living room and the WAF had to be taken into consideration. I had to make some compromises for this setup, but the end result turned out great and I learned a lot in the process.

I installed/mounted, configured/calibrated, and tested the entire HT solo (exceptions: moving heavy items, hanging the screen and projector, & AJ helped a bit with the speaker setup). I measured, centered, leveled, and laser aligned everything at least 5 times to be certain it was all perfect; I think I have OCD! I’m a firm believer in the saying “Measure twice, cut once”. And when it comes to cabling, more is better, don’t cut the wire too short just to save a few bucks, give yourself plenty of slack.

The HT room is running on a dedicated (home run) 20-amp circuit. The SurgeX power center plugs directly into the main 20-amp receptacle and all the peripheral components are connected directly to the power center. Only the projector and HTPC are connected directly to the UPS bank as they are the only components I would need to gracefully shutdown in the event of a power failure to the home.

If anyone has any ideas for me to consider implementing, please comment below. I’m posting this not only to give others an idea of what can be accomplished with an under 20K budget, but also to gain insight as to what I could possibly do to make my overall HT experience a little bit better.

If anyone wants me to take photos of certain frames of a film, let me know the name of the film and the timestamp and I’ll snap and upload them if I can.

Oh yeah, and the Flu ain’t got nothin on Upgraditis! That stuff don’t wash off, LOL! Makes my head and wallet itch like crazy!



Photography Credit: Hinson Bevis
Camera/Flash/Lens’: Canon 5D Mark III, 600EX-RT flash, Canon 50mm f/1.2 & 35mm f/2.0
NOTE: some pictures were taken on a tripod and some were freehand. ISO 1600 was used for all shots. 0 - Exposure. No post-processing was done other than conversion from .cr2 to .png so I could upload the files to the web. Some detail is lost due to this conversion/compression, but that’s the best I can do with the tools I have.

Photography Credit: Casey Hatcher (me)
Camera/Flash/Lens: Samsung TL350, Built-in flash, Schneider Kreuznach f/2.4-5.8 (10MP 5x zoom lens)
NOTE: this is a point-and-shoot and all pictures were taken freehand so quality is not the best. ISO Auto was used for all shots. 0 - Exposure. No post-processing was done other than conversion to .png.
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Respectfully,
Mr. Hatcher

Last edited by Mr. Hatcher; 07-12-2014 at 05:45 PM.
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post #2 of 35 Old 07-03-2014, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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As a side note, this is a WIP (work in progress). I still have quite a few pictures to upload to Photo Bucket so I can share them, and I will be updating my main post from time-to-time with new content.

Please feel free to throw out ideas if content could be arranged differently to make the read better.

Enjoy...

Respectfully,
Mr. Hatcher
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post #3 of 35 Old 07-03-2014, 07:32 PM
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Congratulations, look forward to seeing the pictures.

James Reid:D
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post #4 of 35 Old 07-03-2014, 11:44 PM
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Awesome! I've really been looking forward to your thread, and I can't wait to see the pictures of the screen in action - both in the dark and with light.


Thanks,


Dave

FOR SALE: Wireworld Platinum 6 1M HDMI Cable. Originally $1000, selling for $500 obo. Please PM me, if interested.
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post #5 of 35 Old 07-03-2014, 11:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardoski View Post
Congratulations, look forward to seeing the pictures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thezaks View Post
Awesome! I've really been looking forward to your thread, and I can't wait to see the pictures of the screen in action - both in the dark and with light.


Thanks,


Dave
Thanks! I finally got most of the pictures uploaded. I'll be uploading the ones with lights on another night. I gotta get some rest to prepare for this 3-day weekend.

If you want to see any specific pictures, just let me know and I'll snap and upload them.

Happy 4th Everyone!

Respectfully,
Mr. Hatcher
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post #6 of 35 Old 07-04-2014, 01:00 AM
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A fellow Tallahasseean! Very nice setup!

Samsung PN60E7000
Sony HT-CT770
Custom HTPC - 3.2GHz/8TB/8GB/HD5670
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post #7 of 35 Old 07-04-2014, 08:51 AM
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Just an FYI Mr. Hatcher. Click the link below for "Light Dims". It's a nice product that is easy to stick on and remove for dimming or blacking out LED's on equipment. It's a little nicer looking than black tape.

http://www.lightdims.com/
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post #8 of 35 Old 07-05-2014, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Hatcher View Post
Thanks! I finally got most of the pictures uploaded. I'll be uploading the ones with lights on another night. I gotta get some rest to prepare for this 3-day weekend.

If you want to see any specific pictures, just let me know and I'll snap and upload them.

Happy 4th Everyone!
Great pictures so far! Once you have the pictures of the screen images with the lights on, I'll let you know if there's any other specific pictures I'd like to see. Have a great weekend!


Dave

FOR SALE: Wireworld Platinum 6 1M HDMI Cable. Originally $1000, selling for $500 obo. Please PM me, if interested.
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post #9 of 35 Old 07-05-2014, 09:48 PM
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Congratulations on a really beautiful room. Everything looks pristine and I especially like the color-matched fixture/plug covers on the screen wall. You have alot of equipment that I have researched and/or hope to upgrade to in the future.

Would you mind if I asked a few questions about your setup?
  • Are you satisfied with the quality of the Supernova given the price?
  • Did you get samples of the the 08-85 and 23-23 screen materials? Why did you decide to go with the 23-23?
  • Are you happy with the sound quality from the Sony 1040? Also, does the WiFi work as advertised?
  • Do you feel like the Darby component of the Oppo provides a substantial enhancement in your setup? I would really like to get the 103D, but they're expensive and I don't have anywhere local to preview it.

Thanks for sharing your room!
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post #10 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 09:18 AM
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great room!

Hatcher,
great job! This came together perfectly.

Any reviews of 3D on your screen? I'm getting a RS4910 and would like to get a screen like yours.

I would also like to know your opinion on the Oppo and the Darbee once you get it.
I plan on using a blu ray player, apple tv(for airplay iMac), directv genie. And would like an opinion if the Oppo and/or Darbee is worth the expense given the upscaling already built into the JVC. Thanks!
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post #11 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDust View Post
A fellow Tallahasseean! Very nice setup!
Thanks! I didn't know anyone else in Tallahassee was on here. Good to know I'm not alone, LOL!

Respectfully,
Mr. Hatcher
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post #12 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b curry View Post
Just an FYI Mr. Hatcher. Click the link below for "Light Dims". It's a nice product that is easy to stick on and remove for dimming or blacking out LED's on equipment. It's a little nicer looking than black tape.

http://www.lightdims.com/
Thanks for the intel. I may have to try these out. I purchased some 3M 5% removable window tint so I could cut strips out to put over the LED lights on my stove, microwave, etc... It's crazy how those lights can affect the overall experience. I need to hurry up and get my curtain system installed, that will help tremendously, especially during the day.

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post #13 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 02:48 PM
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What curtain system did you go with?

- Jeff
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post #14 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterBottle View Post
Congratulations on a really beautiful room. Everything looks pristine and I especially like the color-matched fixture/plug covers on the screen wall. You have alot of equipment that I have researched and/or hope to upgrade to in the future.

Would you mind if I asked a few questions about your setup?
  • Are you satisfied with the quality of the Supernova given the price?
  • Did you get samples of the the 08-85 and 23-23 screen materials? Why did you decide to go with the 23-23?
  • Are you happy with the sound quality from the Sony 1040? Also, does the WiFi work as advertised?
  • Do you feel like the Darby component of the Oppo provides a substantial enhancement in your setup? I would really like to get the 103D, but they're expensive and I don't have anywhere local to preview it.

Thanks for sharing your room!
Thanks, I really appreciate it! It's taken a lot of research and time to get my theater to this point, and I still have a few things left to do, but that's the thrill of it. I still do lots of research and try to find "affordable" ways to make it better. Unfortunately, better performing components than what I currently have are quite a bit more expensive. I've found that sweet spot between price and performance and the law of diminishing returns means I have to spend a lot more money for a small increase in performance.

To answer your questions:
1. I'm really happy with the Supernova 23-23 material. It's pretty bright and has really excellent viewing angles, all while maintaining better black levels and contrast than a white screen under ambient light. It's expensive no doubt, but after many months comparing samples, I decided dnp had the most pros and the least amount of cons that I needed for my viewing environment.
2. I did get samples of the 08-85 & 23-23 materials. If you had a brighter projector, then the 08-85 would hold up even better under ambient light. But for a 120" screen, you would need a really bright projector to light it up, especially if you had ambient light in the room. If you had the Sony VW1100, then you might be good at 120" with a little bit of ambient light in the room, but I would want 3500+ lumens for viewing with ambient light. For comparison, the extra gain of the 23-23 material allows me to run the iris on my X700 at -11 and still get plenty brightness (in a total dark room), and I can raise the iris setting as the lamp ages. In the daytime I use a brighter mode. So for my budget this was the best configuration. If the Epson 6030 calibrated brighter it would work well, but it doesn't so that ruled out that projector. The only projectors I would pair with a 120" 08-85 screen would be the Sony VW1100 or a SIM2 Superlumis, both of which cost more than my entire HT.
3. I have used Harmon Kardon, Marantz, and Sony receivers. I just prefer the sound from Sony. It's warm and dynamic. The Sony STR-DN1050 is out now and offers a few key improvements, albeit a couple less HDMI inputs. Sony has the best GUI on these as well which makes it really nice and easy to navigate through the menu system. I haven't used Wi-Fi on it, only Bluetooth to stream music from mobile devices when we have friends over that want to play some jams from their phone. My wireless router is inside my A/V cabinet so everything is connected via Ethernet.
4. I wouldn't go so far as to say "substantial" but if you're not planning on going 4K anytime soon then definitely get the 103D as it does make the image more 3-dimensional (more depth and contrast). I really like it, some don't. Good thing is, Oppo holds it's value well so if you decide to sell it then you can get good ROI. $150 over the standard 103 is a small price to pay for a solid PQ enhancer, IMO.

Hopefully that answers your questions and can help you make a few decisions. Good luck!

Respectfully,
Mr. Hatcher

Last edited by Mr. Hatcher; 07-06-2014 at 03:44 PM.
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post #15 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by napa_newbie View Post
Hatcher,
great job! This came together perfectly.

Any reviews of 3D on your screen? I'm getting a RS4910 and would like to get a screen like yours.

I would also like to know your opinion on the Oppo and the Darbee once you get it.
I plan on using a blu ray player, apple tv(for airplay iMac), directv genie. And would like an opinion if the Oppo and/or Darbee is worth the expense given the upscaling already built into the JVC. Thanks!
Thanks for the compliment!

One of my friends has a JVC RS50 and just got the Optoma BG-ZF2100GLS Active Shutter 3D-RF Glasses & Optoma BG-BC100B 3D-RF Emitter. He's going to let me borrow his to try them out on my projector to see if I might be interested in buying a set. I honestly hate wearing 3D glasses though because I have to wear glasses for watching movies already. So wearing two pair of glasses at the same time is kind of annoying to say the least. From my research, I've read that 3D is pretty solid on these new JVCs so I'm going to give it a try to see if I can be persuaded to like it.

I already own the Oppo 103D with built-in Darbee. It makes the image look a bit more 3-dimensional (more depth and contrast). I enjoy using it in moderation. It's one of those settings you just have to try out for yourself though. Some people like it, some don't. For $150, I think it's a worthy investment. I haven't received the Darbee 5100CIE yet, but I supported them on Indiegogo so I should be one of the first to receive my unit, then I can give all of my video content the Darbee treatment.

Respectfully,
Mr. Hatcher
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What curtain system did you go with?
Motorized Curtains

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post #17 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 03:38 PM
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Thanks, I really appreciate it! It's taken a lot of research and time to get my theater to this point, and I still have a few things left to do, but that's the thrill of it. I still do lots of research and try to find "affordable" ways to make it better. Unfortunately, better performing components than what I currently have are quite a bit more expensive. I've found that sweet spot between price and performance and the law of diminishing returns means I have to spend a lot more money for a small increase in performance.

To answer your questions:
1. I'm really happy with the Supernova 23-23 material. It's pretty bright and has really excellent viewing angles, all while maintaining better black levels and contrast than a white screen under ambient light. It's expensive no doubt, but after many months comparing samples, I decided dnp had the most pros and the least amount of cons that I needed for my viewing environment.
2. I did get samples of the 08-85 & 23-23 materials. If you had a brighter projector, then the 08-85 would hold up even better under ambient light. But for a 120" screen, you would need a really bright projector to light it up, especially if you had ambient light in the room. If you had the Sony VW1100, then you might be good at 120" with a little bit of ambient light in the room, but I would want 3500+ lumens for viewing with ambient light. For comparison, the extra gain of the 23-23 material allows me to run the iris on my X700 at -11 and still get a plenty brightness (in a total dark room), and I can raise the iris setting as the lamp ages. In the daytime I use a brighter mode. So for my budget this was the best configuration. If the Epson 6030 calibrated brighter it would work well, but it doesn't so that ruled out that projector. The only projectors I would pair with a 120" 08-85 screen would be the Sony VW1100 or a SIM2 Superlumis, both of which cost more than my entire HT.
3. I have used Harmon Kardon, Marantz, and Sony receivers. I just prefer the sound from Sony. It's warm and dynamic. The Sony STR-DN1050 is out now and offers a few key improvements, albeit a couple less HDMI inputs. Sony has the best GUI on these as well which makes it really nice and easy to navigate through the menu system. I haven't used Wi-Fi on it, only Bluetooth to stream music from mobile devices when we have friends over that want to play some jams from their phone. My wireless router is inside my A/V cabinet so everything is connected via Ethernet.
4. I wouldn't go so far as to say "substantial" but if you're not planning on going 4K anytime soon then definitely get the 103D as it does make the image more 3-dimensional (more depth and contrast). I really like it, some don't. Good thing is, Oppo holds it's value well so if you decide to sell it then you can get good ROI. $150 over the standard 103 is a small price to pay for a solid PQ enhancer, IMO.

Hopefully that answers your questions and can help you make a few decisions. Good luck!
This does help, and thanks for taking the time to answer.
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post #18 of 35 Old 07-06-2014, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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This does help, and thanks for taking the time to answer.
No prob, you're welcome. Glad I could help.

Respectfully,
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post #19 of 35 Old 07-08-2014, 01:57 PM
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Go Noles !!
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Go Noles !!
Go Noles!!! It's almost that time of year again.

Btw, I really like your theater. My next one will be much nicer...and in a dedicated room so kids can't get to my toys.

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post #21 of 35 Old 07-08-2014, 03:17 PM
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One of my daughters attended during the early 90"s when Bobby was winning National Championships or at least finished each year in the top 4. Then a VERY long dry spell when Mark Richt left and Bobby put his son in charge of the offense. UGLY!!

This is a good looking team. A repeat may be difficult but they should at least do well.

And thanks for the compliment on my theater. What a great addiction/hobby we have!

You sure have the right kind of excellent equipment. A dedicated and treated room will certainly take you to the next level.
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post #22 of 35 Old 07-09-2014, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
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...I'll be uploading the ones with lights on another night....
Looking forward to the pictures showing how the images look on the screen with the lights on (and also pictures with the blinds open for the windows/doors).



Thanks,

Dave

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post #23 of 35 Old 07-12-2014, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Great pictures so far! Once you have the pictures of the screen images with the lights on, I'll let you know if there's any other specific pictures I'd like to see. Have a great weekend!


Dave
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Looking forward to the pictures showing how the images look on the screen with the lights on (and also pictures with the blinds open for the windows/doors).



Thanks,

Dave
Alright, I finally got some pics uploaded with the blind open and lights on in the kitchen. Once I get the concrete outside on the porch stained dark brown, it should cut down on reflecting light inside.

So long as you have decent light control (blackout blinds & indirect lighting), the image is plenty bright enough for me during the day (non-critical viewing). If you don't have good light control though, you may want to get a brighter projector, but then you'll be sacrificing contrast and black levels. So far, this has proven to be an effective combination in my room.

Respectfully,
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post #24 of 35 Old 07-13-2014, 07:19 PM
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Alright, I finally got some pics uploaded with the blind open and lights on in the kitchen. Once I get the concrete outside on the porch stained dark brown, it should cut down on reflecting light inside.

So long as you have decent light control (blackout blinds & indirect lighting), the image is plenty bright enough for me during the day (non-critical viewing). If you don't have good light control though, you may want to get a brighter projector, but then you'll be sacrificing contrast and black levels. So far, this has proven to be an effective combination in my room.
Perfect - thanks so much! That's exactly what I wanted to see.


Dave

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post #25 of 35 Old 07-14-2014, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Perfect - thanks so much! That's exactly what I wanted to see.


Dave
You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions or want any "specific" photos taken and uploaded.

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post #26 of 35 Old 07-14-2014, 11:05 AM
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You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions or want any "specific" photos taken and uploaded.
Thanks again! I've thought a lot about using the same setup, but for my room, I think I might go a different direction. I'm thinking of a 65"-75" lcd tv for daytime viewing, and then a motorized screen (100"-110") for evening/night viewing. The projector I plan to use is a Sony HW55ES (love the quiet of the fan!), along with either the DNP .8 material or the Firehawk G4 material. It's a more expensive solution, since there are three pieces (TV, screen, projector) to buy, instead of just two pieces or one (TV only), but it will probably give me the most flexibility in my room and the best image both day and night.

I think that if I had the room, I would do a rear projection setup. Perhaps my next house


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post #27 of 35 Old 07-14-2014, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks again! I've thought a lot about using the same setup, but for my room, I think I might go a different direction. I'm thinking of a 65"-75" lcd tv for daytime viewing, and then a motorized screen (100"-110") for evening/night viewing. The projector I plan to use is a Sony HW55ES (love the quiet of the fan!), along with either the DNP .8 material or the Firehawk G4 material. It's a more expensive solution, since there are three pieces (TV, screen, projector) to buy, instead of just two pieces or one (TV only), but it will probably give me the most flexibility in my room and the best image both day and night. One good benefit of using the dnp 2.3 and JVC combo is that you can really clamp down the iris and still get a plenty bright image, then as the lamp ages you can slowly open it up.

I think that if I had the room, I would do a rear projection setup. Perhaps my next house


Dave
Well know that I had the Sony HW55ES before the JVC X700R and the difference in noise is negligible. Brightness is also very similar between the two once they are both calibrated. You may get a "little" bit brighter non-calibrated image out of the Sony, but not much...again negligible, IMO. If you get a smaller screen size and use the dnp .8 material, you may be Ok with the brightness from the Sony, and the screen should help the contrast and black levels out (not the Sony's strong point, IMO). I would not recommend the Firehawk G4 material due to sparkles, but you may not be as sensitive to them as myself. One good benefit of using the dnp 2.3 and JVC combo is that you can really clamp down the iris and still get a plenty bright image, then as the lamp ages you can slowly open it up.

And yes, a nice rear-projection setup would be ideal for getting the best PQ with ambient light in the viewing room. Rear-projection or OLED will be my next setup for sure.

JVC vs Sony:
2D: JVC hands down
3D: not sure, haven't seen 3D on the JVC (the Sony was decent but I've read that this years JVC is better due to CMD and better contrast/black levels)
Gaming: Sony hands down
Brightness: Similar once calibrated, Sony has the slight edge non-calibrated.
Contrast: JVC hands down
Black levels: JVC hands down
Noise low lamp: about the same
Noise high lamp: Sony is quieter, but the JVC isn't distracting at all and only noticeable in quiet passages (hanging 4' above my head).

Either choice would yield excellent results, just get whatever you think will work best in your viewing environment and go for it.

Respectfully,
Mr. Hatcher

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post #28 of 35 Old 07-14-2014, 11:44 AM
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Well know that I had the Sony HW55ES before the JVC X700R and the difference in noise is negligible. Brightness is also very similar between the two once they are both calibrated. You may get a "little" bit brighter non-calibrated image out of the Sony, but not much...again negligible, IMO. If you get a smaller screen size and use the dnp .8 material, you may be Ok with the brightness from the Sony, and the screen should help the contrast and black levels out (not the Sony's strong point, IMO). I would not recommend the Firehawk G4 material due to sparkles, but you may not be as sensitive to them as myself. One good benefit of using the dnp 2.3 and JVC combo is that you can really clamp down the iris and still get a plenty bright image, then as the lamp ages you can slowly open it up.

And yes, a nice rear-projection setup would be ideal for the having the best PQ with ambient light in the viewing room. Rear-projection or OLED will be my next setup for sure.

JVC vs Sony:
2D: JVC hands down
3D: not sure, haven't seen 3D on the JVC (the Sony was decent but I've read that this years JVC is better due to CMD and better contrast/black levels)
Gaming: Sony hands down
Brightness: Similar once calibrated, Sony has the slight edge non-calibrated.
Contrast: JVC hands down
Black levels: JVC hands down
Noise low lamp: about the same
Noise high lamp: Sony is quieter, but the JVC isn't distracting at all and only noticeable in quiet passages (hanging 4' above my head).

Either choice would yield excellent results, just get whatever you think will work best in your viewing environment and go for it.
Great info and a big help! Thanks so much! It's nice to get a perspective from someone who has had both projectors.

Dave

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post #29 of 35 Old 07-14-2014, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Great info and a big help! Thanks so much! It's nice to get a perspective from someone who has had both projectors.

Dave
No prob, but let me elaborate a bit more on the part where I said "2D: JVC hands down".

I should've said, low-mid APL content (JVC hands down, IMO). Mid-high APL content (they are much more similar than different, but I still think the JVC looks better). JVC has better optics. Sony tries to compensate for it's lower quality optics with Reality Creation, but it adds significant noise to the image (especially if used on anything other than the lowest possible RC settings engaged). With RC off though, the image is much softer than the JVC.

I would seriously get the X500 over the HW55 unless gaming is of utmost importance. You will be extremely happy with the X500/RS49. I like the X-series because they are all black, no gold ring around the lens. You could pair the X500 with a 100" dnp .8 and be good at night. I honestly don't think the Sony or JVC will be bright enough to get a watchable image under ambient light with the dnp .8 material. dnp recommends 2600 lumens for a 100" 08-85 screen with 400 lux ambient light in the room [see link].

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post #30 of 35 Old 07-14-2014, 12:08 PM
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No prob, but let me elaborate a bit more on the part where I said "2D: JVC hands down".

I should've said, low-mid APL content (JVC hands down, IMO). Mid-high APL content (they are much more similar than different, but I still think the JVC looks better). JVC has better optics. Sony tries to compensate for it's lower quality optics with Reality Creation, but it adds significant noise to the image (especially if used on anything other than the lowest possible RC settings engaged). With RC off though, the image is much softer than the JVC.

I would seriously get the X500 over the HW55 unless gaming is of utmost importance. You will be extremely happy with the X500/RS49. I like the X-series because they are all black, no gold ring around the lens. You could pair the X500 with a 100" dnp .8 and be good at night. I honestly don't think the Sony or JVC will be bright enough to get a watchable image under ambient light with the dnp .8 material. dnp recommends 2600 lumens for a 100" 08-85 screen with 400 lux ambient light in the room [see link].
Thanks! When you mention gaming, do you mean computer games or ? We have a Wii U at home, and that is the only gaming we do at home. Would a JVC be OK with Wii U games?

Also, with a .8 DNP and the X500, I'm wondering if I would be able to keep the JVC on low lamp mode for a nearly dark room?

Dave

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