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post #91 of 124 Old 03-13-2017, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
Did a quick and dirty diagram of the setup.
Blue speakers powered by the 7200.
Red speakers powered by the 6200.
Yellow speakers powered by the 5200.

That is a nice diagram layout what did you use to create it?
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post #92 of 124 Old 03-13-2017, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
Well, it depends. I guess technically the 9.1.0 + 0.0.4 dual layout is the most correct, but it would probably also be were you least notice wides. While a 7.1.4 + wides (from a 5.1.+W second setup) would be more noticable, espesially if you mounted them wide, like closer to 70 degress. They really work well with the surround to widen both the surround field and the 'cinematic' wide front field.




You're welcome

Well, i wonder if i am approaching the point diminishing returns regarding speaker count, LOL.
Now instead of heights you need some lowers, get another receiver and some Klipsch RP140SA's to go on the ground below the Klipsch RS52's to complete your pillars of sound.

Or Klipsch down firing RS8-W subs below the Klipsch RS52's and split the pre-outs for the Klipsch RS52's to those subs giving your self surround subs.

Last edited by Socio; 03-13-2017 at 03:46 PM.
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post #93 of 124 Old 03-14-2017, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socio View Post
That is a nice diagram layout what did you use to create it?
Haha, funny story, i found the 24.1.10 Dolby Atmos drawing online, and then used "DOODLEFREE" on my Ipad to modify it. It's a child's app, LOOL !
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post #94 of 124 Old 03-16-2017, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
Haha, funny story, i found the 24.1.10 Dolby Atmos drawing online, and then used "DOODLEFREE" on my Ipad to modify it. It's a child's app, LOOL !
Well for a child's app that turned out real good!
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post #95 of 124 Old 04-04-2017, 01:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rontalley View Post
Confused as to the separation for the heights. I get set of rears, fronts and scatmos TM. In this config, only the matrix middle would play in TM and there would be no redundancy...

However in your .8 how much separation are you getting from RH and TR and same question with fronts? Seems like you would actually be shrinking the sound stage with your .8 vs. .6 scatmos..
Sorry, i missed this post completely.

Well, no it doesn't. With tops and heights, panning sounds doesn't have do rely on phantom imaging as much, since there is sounds from a actual speaker instead. Pannings both front to rear and left to right works beatifully, and is very precise.

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post #96 of 124 Old 04-23-2017, 01:56 AM - Thread Starter
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More SWATMOS testing.

So, after some discussion in the multi AVR thread, i decided to do some practical tests with my AVR's "on top of each other" setup. I was trying to hear if they manage to phantom sounds to the same placement, or shifted sound when muting/unmuting config1 or config2.

Earlier i had noticed that the 9.1.6 Atmos test tones are a good way to test different setup, and one example is the side surround test tone.
In a regular 7.1 or 9.1 setup, that tone comes from the side surround speaker(only), optimally @90 degrees, as it should.
However, in a 5.1+wides setup, that tone is phantomed(@90 degrees) between the side surround and wide speakers, since in a 5.1 setup, side surrounds are placed further back(@110-120 degrees), to compensate for no surround backs.

By playing this test tone alternating between config1(5.1+W), config2(9.1) or both i could test if it sounds/phantoms as it should.

First test actually revealed that it did shift forward with config1 (5.1+W) on, but then i remember that i bumped the special wides and reduced the surr/rear mix, so i thought it was best to start from scratch. Since i did the last Audyssey calibration, i had only used the AVR's internal test tones to check channel levels. But i now went trough each channel on all 3 AVR's using the 9.1.6 Atmos test tones to set the levels, and it was some discrepancy here and there. So with all channels level matched, i did the test again, and now it worked surprisingly well. Much better than i thought.
I then listened trough most of the Atmos demo clips, and as a base, the 2 first AVR's were playing in the accepted 9.1.4 setup, and then i continously unmuted/muted the config1 AVR, thereby filling in special wides, surr/rear mix and the 4 tops.

I could not hear any shift/smear in sounds/ effects or pannings, in fact what i could hear was increased stability and more pronounced and precise pannings, and a sense of bigger sound bouble. No artifacts, nothing standing out as negative effects.

Actually, in listening to the Bailando music video(again), i was very surprised by how easy this bigger sound bubble was to hear. I closed my eyes and frantically pressed the config1 mute button, to the point where i did not know if it was muted or not, and with eyes still closed i repetedly pressed mute button slowly, and tried to guess if it was muted or not(blind test?). I got it correct each time, surprisingly NOT because it got louder, not at all, but it got wider and taller in all directions. This was the "cinematic" effect of the special wides, but it also added a similar effect to the rear outer corner, adding more space. And the tops continued that effect upwards. Simply a bigger 3D sound bubble.

I also played the opening scene in Gravity, my favourite Atmos demo scene.
And it was awsome, added stability in Houston crew voices panning around the room, clearer sounds from the wide position, taller effects from the ceiling, i ended up just smiling, and enjoying the scene .
It truly is a awsome soundtrack, just too bad the Atmos edition isn't 3D picture as well.


All in all, any afternoon ending with a better sound is a good afternoon.

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post #97 of 124 Old 04-27-2017, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a little upgrade today:



Got a good deal on a used JVC RS600, so the X500 has to go:



This projector is insane! There is so much light and everything is upgraded compared to X500, so every movie is jawdropping.

Also got a Linker, so i can load @Manni01 custom gamma curves, so this should be fun


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post #98 of 124 Old 04-27-2017, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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And i renamed the sources on the 3 AVR's. You like? (Bottom right one)

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post #99 of 124 Old 04-27-2017, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
Got a little upgrade today:

...

Also got a Linker, so i can load @Manni01 custom gamma curves, so this should be fun
Hi Nalleh,

Looks great, I'm sure you're going to enjoy this upgrade a lot

Just to clarify, the linker isn't necessary to load the custom gamma curves. It's only necessary to prevent the JVC from forcing Gamma D whenever it detects HDR, and also to allow the DI in HDR. Without the linker, you can still load custom gamma curves but you have to select them manually every time you start a film, and you can't enable the DI with HDR content.

Have fun!
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post #100 of 124 Old 04-27-2017, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Hi Nalleh,

Looks great, I'm sure you're going to enjoy this upgrade a lot

Just to clarify, the linker isn't necessary to load the custom gamma curves. It's only necessary to prevent the JVC from forcing Gamma D whenever it detects HDR, and also to allow the DI in HDR. Without the linker, you can still load custom gamma curves but you have to select them manually every time you start a film, and you can't enable the DI with HDR content.

Have fun!
Yes i know, just formulated it wrong. With the linker i have all options. In fact i already imported one of your latest curves, and it was much better than gamma D. Mindboglingly good

Strictly speaking i did not need the linker, as you said, but after connecting the RS600 with the UB900 in the front A/V rack and using my old 12,5 meter HDMI cable, i could only get HDR BT2020 4:2:2 12bit to the RS 600. Altough that is HDR, I was not satisfied, so i did the following:

I now had the UB900 , a Integral, a Linker, and the RS600 and i had bought HDFURY HDMI certified cables, 4 units @ 2 meters each. So by using one cable between each component it was long enough to reach the projector, LOOL. So i then got the full HDR BT2020 4:4:4 12bit, and deep colour 12bit on th RS600 info.

And i can use the custom EDID on Integral to watch SDR BT2020 or rec709 if i want. And activate/deactive HDR with the Linker.

Awsome.
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post #101 of 124 Old 04-29-2017, 09:12 AM
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Awesome progress and updates Nalleh!

Always something interesting to see and read when you post to this thread... thanks!
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post #102 of 124 Old 05-13-2017, 08:35 PM
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That is absolutely out of this world! I'd never would have thought to build something like this! Outstanding!
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post #103 of 124 Old 06-06-2017, 07:28 AM
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@Nalleh

I was wondering, did you ever experiment with a double pair of TMs (FH-TM + TM-RH) instead of the FH-RH + TF-TR combination you are using now? The advantage would be not having a signal intended for the TM position spread all the way from front to back.

A good idea and understanding lies at the basis of every successful project.
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post #104 of 124 Old 06-06-2017, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maikeldepotter View Post
@Nalleh

I was wondering, did you ever experiment with a double pair of TMs (FH-TM + TM-RH) instead of the FH-RH + TF-TR combination you are using now? The advantage would be not having a signal intended for the TM position spread all the way from front to back.
Yeah, i did try 'overlapping' vs 'on top of each other' setups.

Consider this:

In a dual TM Setup, if a overhead sound/panning goes from the rear to front(or vica versa), setup1(FH+TM) has to start that sound in the TM, or right above you, and pans to the front(FH), while setup2 (TM+RH) starts it (correctly) from the rear(RH), and ends at TM, above you= sounds from 2 different places all the way=smearing.

Either way you get more action from above, but less precise with dual TM's.

My setup might be called a 'wide TM' setup, as both setups has to phantom TM, but it is more stable because of a height(wide) setup and a top(narrow) setup = more speakers placed different trying to sound from the same place.

Remeber the placement of all my overhead speakers is not correct, with all 4 tops in front of MLP, but placed as equidistant along the ceiling as possible.

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Last edited by Nalleh; 06-06-2017 at 09:35 AM.
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post #105 of 124 Old 06-09-2017, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Ideas, ideas.

That Depotter dude got me thinking AGAIN !

In Auro 3D my 4 Atmos tops are unused. In the Auro guidelines it says you can use 4 VOG's, and you can use Atmos guidelines for the tops for these. So i am going to see if i can test this.

Auro to the left and Atmos to the right:


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post #106 of 124 Old 06-19-2017, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, so the discussion leading up to this test started in the Auro thread:

The official Auro 3D thread (home theater version)

Where Auro saids that 2 or 4 Atmos tops can be used for Auro Top Surrounds, so since i have both heights and tops, and my tops are unused in Auro, i thought i could see if it could work.

First, even though there are guidelines for this( on Atmos and Auro, discussed in the link), i was left with what i already had setup as ceiling speakers. This means they are not quite according to specs.
My seating arrangement is a two seater recliner, so there is a left and a right MLP.
I have a correct placed Top Surround today, used for Auro 10.1. Straight up and centered.
I have Atmos top Fronts @45 degrees median, placed a little inside the front speakers, @2.5 meters apart(left/right).
And Top Rears @ ca 80 degrees median, in other words slightly in front of MLP, same width as TF.

So what i did was rewire the 4 Atmos tops to a ext. amp with a speaker A and speaker B output, so i could switch between one set, or both. Sent top surround pre-out from the Denon 5200 to this amp via a y-connector, and this way i could test all options.

However i have tested more than one top surround before, where i used my (then) top middles as top surrounds, and did not like it, as it moved the resulting sound from VOG to my left side MLP, and almost past my straight up position, or from my top middle left speaker. And that did not sound 'correct' in my opinion.

And i got the same result now. Engaging either Top Rear or Top Front as Auro Top Surround shifted the sound to my leftside MLP, and it sounded like only my left tops were active. Even all 4 activated did not help. I even have all ceiling speakers aimed at the opposite side, for energy trading.
This can probably be a result of my tops beeing mounted to wide, outside spec(for 4 Auro VOG's anyway), but i did not want to move any ceiling speakers AGAIN.

However, i did find a happy compromise.
By using my exisiting correct Top Surround in combination with only my Atmos Top Rears, i got the best from both parts:
Auro Top Surround centered the soundfield from above, and stopped it from coming from my left speaker.
Atmos Top Rears as Top Surround widened the soundfield and moved it slightly forward, decoupled it from the speakers, so to speak.

So using 3 ! speakers as Top Surround gave the best result, without moving any speakers.

I will used this setup for now, and test it some more as i get some more time.

Here is a pic showing the sofa, TF(barely in right upper corner), TR, VOG, RH(on wall), and SurrBack. Also SH(Auro) in the rear corner on ceiling.

Sorry for the dark pic

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http://www.avsforum.com/forum/29-wha...l#post41323201

Last edited by Nalleh; 06-19-2017 at 06:14 PM.
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post #107 of 124 Old 06-19-2017, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
So using 3 ! speakers as Top Surround gave the best result, without moving any speakers.
From Voice of God to Holy Trinity.
It all makes sense now.
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post #108 of 124 Old 06-20-2017, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by maikeldepotter View Post
From Voice of God to Holy Trinity.
It all makes sense now.
Indeed !

Well, there could be a number of factors why i did not work. As i said, i have a two seater, and the seats are ca 1.2 meters apart, or 4 feet, and the ceiling speakers are 2.5 meters apart or ~8 feet. So speakers to wide.
Room to small. As Auro says, multiple Top Surrounds are for bigger rooms.
Ceiling to low, sound to localized.

I did a quick measurment of distance to each top speaker from my seat, and the difference were within the 2ms window of precedence.

Now, i one could have a magnetic ceiling, and then magnetic mounts on the speakers, and wireless, then it would be much easier to test all possible setups

Triple Atmos Receivers
Atmos 13.1.8/DTS:X 9.1.8/AURO 3D 12.1

My setup:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/29-wha...l#post41323201

Last edited by Nalleh; 06-20-2017 at 03:47 PM.
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post #109 of 124 Old 06-21-2017, 01:01 AM
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If you don't mind me asking, what are the dimensions of your room? I'm going back and forth on some room idea's for a theater but can't make up my mind. lol
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post #110 of 124 Old 06-21-2017, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
Well, there could be a number of factors why i did not work. As i said, i have a two seater, and the seats are ca 1.2 meters apart, or 4 feet, and the ceiling speakers are 2.5 meters apart or ~8 feet. So speakers to wide.
That is the main cause. With your ceiling height the 4 top speakers should be max 1.35 meter apart to create a sound that from any point in your seating area is perceived as coming from right above.

Quote:
Room to small. As Auro says, multiple Top Surrounds are for bigger rooms. Ceiling to low, sound to localized.
In fact, for small rooms with low ceilings Wilfried van Baelen's general advice is to forget about the VOG speaker, as its too close proximity can cause distracting speaker localization. If you nevertheless want to include the top channel in a small room/ low ceiling situation, applying multiple top speakers is still the best way to go. From Auro3D's guidelines:
Quote:
This is also especially true for rooms with lower ceilings, as this will also help to minimize the proximity effect of a too closely positioned ceiling speaker.
Quote:
I did a quick measurment of distance to each top speaker from my seat, and the difference were within the 2ms window of precedence.
Still, (as you have noticed) that does not prevent sound shifting to the left or right pair of speakers if you move a bit to the side. That is because a stereo phantom image created by a mono sound already collapses to one side with a time difference approaching 0.7 ms.

Quote:
Now, i one could have a magnetic ceiling, and then magnetic mounts on the speakers, and wireless, then it would be much easier to test all possible setups
For my 'Lab' I am currently designing a 'minimal headroom' system to slide speakers to any x,y position on the ceiling, including toeing and tilting facilities. It is still drawing table, and have yet to discuss the concept with a company specialized in steel constructions. These things take time...

A good idea and understanding lies at the basis of every successful project.

Last edited by maikeldepotter; 06-21-2017 at 04:56 AM.
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post #111 of 124 Old 06-21-2017, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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If you don't mind me asking, what are the dimensions of your room? I'm going back and forth on some room idea's for a theater but can't make up my mind. lol
From first post:

Quote:
5.1x4.1x2.4 meter

16.5Wx13.5Dx7.8H feet
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Originally Posted by maikeldepotter View Post
That is the main cause. With your ceiling height the 4 top speakers should be max 1.35 meter apart to create a sound that from any point in your seating area is perceived as coming from right above.

In fact, for small rooms with low ceilings Wilfried van Baelen's general advice is to forget about the VOG speaker, as its too close proximity can cause distracting speaker localization. If you nevertheless want to include the top channel in a small room/ low ceiling situation, applying multiple top speakers is still the best way to go. From Auro3D's guidelines:

Still, (as you have noticed) that does not prevent sound shifting to the left or right pair of speakers if you move a bit to the side. That is because a stereo phantom image created by a mono sound already collapses to one side with a time difference approaching 0.7 ms.

For my 'Lab' I am currently designing a 'minimal headroom' system to slide speakers to any x,y position on the ceiling, including toeing and tilting facilities. It is still drawing table, and have yet to discuss the concept with a company specialized in steel constructions. These things take time...
Yes, i agree. I need to make a temporary way to move the top speakers to test this further, and i am looking into it

But the 'compromise' i found is ok for now, and still a upgrade from before, so it' all good.

Sound like a cool 'Lab' you're setting up. With small motors and and remote control it would be so much easier to hear differences

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My setup:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/29-wha...l#post41323201
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post #112 of 124 Old 06-25-2017, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
From first post:





Yes, i agree. I need to make a temporary way to move the top speakers to test this further, and i am looking into it

But the 'compromise' i found is ok for now, and still a upgrade from before, so it' all good.

Sound like a cool 'Lab' you're setting up. With small motors and and remote control it would be so much easier to hear differences
I wonder if you could use something like those remote controlled telescoping drapery rods, ceiling mount them and have them move your speakers.?

Even better if the remote is programmable so you can have an Auro3d button and a Atmos button and be able move the speakers into place depending on what you are listening to.
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post #113 of 124 Old 07-13-2017, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
I get a lot of questions about my setup, so i tought i could make a thread explaining it a little more. And maybe some pics too.

Short version: i use more than one Atmos AVR's to expand beyond the 7.1.4/9.1.2 hardware limit on todays affordable gear.

Did a quick and dirty diagram of the setup.
Blue speakers powered by the 7200.
Red speakers powered by the 6200.
Yellow speakers powered by the 5200.



I will try to have the first post as updated about the setup as possible, and then take the details as we go.

Edit: updated Feb -17:

My HT is in the right half of my living room, and the room dimensions are:

5.1x4.1x2.4 meter

16.5Wx13.5Dx7.8H feet

Or about 3000 cubic feet (+ the other half).

Gear.
Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD player
HD FURY Integral
Oppo BDP-103 BD player
Darbee Darblet
Canal Digital HD PVR satellite-box
Apple TV3
PS3 (fat)
XBOX360
Denon AVR-X7200WA
Denon AVR-X6200W
Denon AVR-X5200W
Yamaha RX-V3067
Inuke NU6000DSP
JVC DLA X500R
Dreamscreen V2 dynagrey 120" screen
Samsung UE65JU7005 UHDTV

Front=Klipsch RF-82 mk1
Wide= Dynavoice Challenger M65 V3
Center=Klipsch RC-64 mk2
Surr= Klipsch RS52
WideSur1/Sur2=Klipsch RS42
Surrback= KEF3005SE
Height speakers= 10x KEF3005SE
Nearfield mid-bass= Behringer B1200D
LFE= SVS PB12-Plus/2
ULF= PSA S3000i +4x Crowson Shadow8 motion actuators
MiniDSP 2X4 balanced

All controlled by a Logitech Harmony Ultimate with the hub+4 extenders.

So my earlier setup was a Denon 7200/5200 combo, to get 7.1.4 + Wides + 8 channels of height speakers, for a 9.1.8 setup, explained further down on page(behing the spoiler), but i recently got a 6200 to gain HDMI 2.0 and DTS:X on the second AVR. Then i discovered "Special Wides" descrided in post 67 in this thread. Since i now had 3 Atmos AVR's, this gave me the opportunity to gain both 2 set of wides, AND keep my 8 channels of heights, for a grand total of 13.1.8 in native Atmos and 9.1.8 on DTS:X.

In daily TV use, i have just the 7200 playing DSU in a 7.1.4 setup, but it has all 14 speakers connected, for a 7.1.4 Atmos/DTS:X or 10.1 Auro 3D setup.

So in native Atmos, setup is as follows:
7200 switched to 9.1.2 for fronts @ 25 degrees, "Pure Wides" @ 50 degrees, "Pure Surrounds @ 85 degrees and Surround backs @150 degrees. Playing only 9.1.0(note 1)(note5).



6200 setup as 5.1.4+Wides(note2) for Wides/Sur1 @ 70 degrees, Sur2/Rears @110 degrees and Top Front+ Top Rear. Playing Wides, Sur2, and Tops(note4).



5200 setup as 5.1.4 for Front Height and Rear Height. Playing 0.0.4
(note 1)(note 2)(note3).



So basically the 7200 plays 9.1.0, while the 5200 plays 0.0.4(heights).
And 6200 plays 5.0.4(Wide/Sur1+Sur2/Rear+Tops).



As you can see in the little channel indicators in front display, the 7200(to the left) plays SB and WIDES, the 6200(bottom right) plays wides but no SB's and the 5200 (top right) plays no wides and no SB's.
As before, they are linked together via HDMI ZONE2 daisy-chained to the next AVR.

I only need on/off and main volume changes on the 6200/5200, so one original remote(and Harmony ultimate) handles that very well.

Note 1: both the 7200 and 5200 front and rear heights pre-out goes to the main and zone2 outputs of the Yama, so i just use the remote to switch the heights currently beeing used between the 7200 and 5200. So when the 7200 is in 9.1.2 mode, i let the 5200 power the heights.

Note 2: both the 6200 and 5200 wides pre-out goes to zone3 on the Yama, so i can choose wich one powers the Wide/sur1 speakers. This way i can use Neo:X wides from the 5200 in DSU(wich do not use wides).

Note 3: in Auro 3D, the 7200 powers the full 10.1 possible. But i can copy the 5200 surrounds(in Auro mode) to the surround back speakers(silent in Auro 10.1) for Auro "12.1" This way i get more "rear fill" than with just the 7200 surrounds @85 degrees. This is done with a dual source speaker switch. I can also power the Surround Heights with the 5200 if i change amp assign to FH+SH, for Auro "14.1".

Note 4: i have a "Center Height" speaker above the screen. This is connected to the center output of the 6200, and works as a "dialog lift", and also helps pannings between the front heights.

Note 5: the 7200 powers a VOG(sub2 pre-out) used in Auro 3D. In other formats, i can matrix a VOG using PL2 in the Yama extracted from the rear heights.


After all this was connected, all 3 AVR's got a full Pro calibration. This took a while...



I got a third !?! Kef3005SE 5.1 speaker kit for this upgrade. I switched out the surround backs from Klipsch to Kef, and the rear heights from white to black Kef's.



And got rid of the bookshelfs used as Surround Heights for white Kef's.
See the Kef sub on top of the Bluray rack? I now have bass-managment on the rear heights





Older setup behind spoiler, no longer used. Too complicated

Spoiler!


I have a lot of flexibility with this setup, but it is not advisable to leave the remote with grandma

Some pics of the recently redone living room.
































Just reading about your tedious setup gave me the willies and I enjoy tinkering with electronics. This was truly a labor of love for you. How's the sound? Is it cohesive?
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post #114 of 124 Old 07-13-2017, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
13.1.8 Franken-SWAtmos is up and running



As you can see, the two bottom AVR's have wides active(the little channel indicator to the right in front display: pure wides and wides/sur1.

And it is working as intended. More details is coming.
Stacking electronics components is a bit risky and detrimental to the health of your components, plus, may have a negative effect on your noise floor. FYI only. otherwise, very impressive undertaking by you.
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post #115 of 124 Old 07-14-2017, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john barlow View Post
Just reading about your tedious setup gave me the willies and I enjoy tinkering with electronics. This was truly a labor of love for you. How's the sound? Is it cohesive?
Thanks
Yes, we all know that a 'normal' full 7.1.4 Atmos setup sounds awsome, and to be honest: it is enough !
But i had the opportunity and econmy to try these things out, and like to explore, so i did it.
I can play the normal 7.1.4 and then fill out with the rest and thereby compare the 'expanded' setup to the normal, instantly.
And yes it sounds cohesive, only bigger, taller, wider.

Quote:
Originally Posted by john barlow View Post
Stacking electronics components is a bit risky and detrimental to the health of your components, plus, may have a negative effect on your noise floor. FYI only. otherwise, very impressive undertaking by you.
No worries, i have that covered. I have a DIY cooling solution for all of them.
Each AVR has a digital thermostat, temp sensor and fan, so i can adjust when the fan needs to start.

Like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-50-110...item4891ee41f8


So the temp never go above 100F/38C.

Triple Atmos Receivers
Atmos 13.1.8/DTS:X 9.1.8/AURO 3D 12.1

My setup:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/29-wha...l#post41323201
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post #116 of 124 Old 07-16-2017, 02:32 AM
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Nalleh, I have a question: Do you think that setup is possible to recreate with Yamaha? I now have a 3067 (like your old ap - great thing, but no X or Atmos, of couse) running an 11.2 system (actually 14.4, with dual speakers on front and center, and dual subs on the two separate channels - two 15" and two 12") in my cabin. I have set up four JBL ceiling speakers ready for Atmos use with speaker boxes built into the ceiling, and I have built boxes for another two, so I can run 6 Atmos/X/whatever speakers when that becomes an option.



I like the sound of the Yamaha setup with front and rear presence, but I would like to get in on the X and Atmos stuff too. So I'm thinking about using one amp to run most of the setup and only let the final amp run the Atmos speakers and a second (and perhaps third) zone, by setting most of the speakers to "external amp". I'm assuimg that won't work with the 3067, both because of the stuff you mention earlier in the thread, about Atmos being sendt from the surrounds and presence/heigth speakers, and because I suspect the difference between the chip on the 3067 and newer models is too great, so I will have sync problems. Would you say that's correct?


If so, I can afford (just bought a house and a *load of furniture and stuff to fill it up with) one 3070, which I think I'll be able to get for around 20 000 NOK some time this winter, and one of the earlier models, maybe a 2050, or something, for about half. Two 3070 is probably just above the very seriuos "divorce lawyer look" in my wife's eyes, so that is probably not possible. Do you think that would work, or do I need to get two of the same generation of receivers because of the chips? I see that the 3070 har new ESS ES9026PRO DA-converter chips, so maybe that would mess up the timing too?


Hope you can give me a few pointers with the experience you've picked up since I first discussed going dual receiver with you (I think that was you) a few years ago, either here or in the Norwegian AV-Forum.


Oh, btw, you seem to have a Photobucket-problem.

11.4/7.4.4 Wharfedale E-series, Yamaha RX-A3070, JVC DLA-X500 projector

Last edited by Mastiff; 07-16-2017 at 06:49 AM.
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post #117 of 124 Old 07-17-2017, 09:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiff View Post
Nalleh, I have a question: Do you think that setup is possible to recreate with Yamaha? I now have a 3067 (like your old ap - great thing, but no X or Atmos, of couse) running an 11.2 system (actually 14.4, with dual speakers on front and center, and dual subs on the two separate channels - two 15" and two 12") in my cabin. I have set up four JBL ceiling speakers ready for Atmos use with speaker boxes built into the ceiling, and I have built boxes for another two, so I can run 6 Atmos/X/whatever speakers when that becomes an option.

I like the sound of the Yamaha setup with front and rear presence, but I would like to get in on the X and Atmos stuff too. So I'm thinking about using one amp to run most of the setup and only let the final amp run the Atmos speakers and a second (and perhaps third) zone, by setting most of the speakers to "external amp". I'm assuimg that won't work with the 3067, both because of the stuff you mention earlier in the thread, about Atmos being sendt from the surrounds and presence/heigth speakers, and because I suspect the difference between the chip on the 3067 and newer models is too great, so I will have sync problems. Would you say that's correct?


If so, I can afford (just bought a house and a *load of furniture and stuff to fill it up with) one 3070, which I think I'll be able to get for around 20 000 NOK some time this winter, and one of the earlier models, maybe a 2050, or something, for about half. Two 3070 is probably just above the very seriuos "divorce lawyer look" in my wife's eyes, so that is probably not possible. Do you think that would work, or do I need to get two of the same generation of receivers because of the chips? I see that the 3070 har new ESS ES9026PRO DA-converter chips, so maybe that would mess up the timing too?


Hope you can give me a few pointers with the experience you've picked up since I first discussed going dual receiver with you (I think that was you) a few years ago, either here or in the Norwegian AV-Forum.


Oh, btw, you seem to have a Photobucket-problem.
Yes, as i have said before, mixing different AVR's is problematic, if different mfr's or Atmos/Non-Atmos, and can get lip-sync issues.

However a dual 3070 or a 3070/2050 could work, but the Yama's are limited in how they can expand, as they do not have wides. There is no point mixing presence(3067) with Atmos heights(3070), as that will just blur the sound, so in the end there is not much you can expand on, exept maybe two sets of overhead speaker: height and tops.
But since Yama's only have 9 amps, you can of course use the 3067 as a ext. amp to get 11 channels.

And yes, i have a Photobucket problem, the whole WORLD has a Photobucket problem, as they now wants $399 A YEAR!!!
That a no-go for me. I am on vacation at the moment, but will look into fixing the problem as i get back.
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Triple Atmos Receivers
Atmos 13.1.8/DTS:X 9.1.8/AURO 3D 12.1

My setup:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/29-wha...l#post41323201
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post #118 of 124 Old 07-25-2017, 01:08 AM
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Thanks! I have now spent a week days researching and thinking. It seems that I actually need one of the 30x0 receivers because the 20x0 does not even have the ability to run 11.2. So maybe I should rather do this with a bit of automation (which I often do...). I can have a macro that uses relays to switch speaker wires between front/rear presence and the four Atmos ceiling speakers, and then (porbably, when I find the right command) use the TCPIP communication to send a command to the receiver that changes from using presence to using ceiling speakers when I am going to watch a movie with Amos or DTS-X Sound. That way I can use only one new receiver and just keep using the old RX-V3900 that I now use to power the presence speakers. The 3067 I'm going to use in the house I recently bought, for running three powered zones.


Edit: Or is there some logical flaw here that I do not see myself? I will open a thread in the receiver forum to see if I whould go 3060 or 3070, with the price difference of 6000 NOK.

11.4/7.4.4 Wharfedale E-series, Yamaha RX-A3070, JVC DLA-X500 projector

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post #119 of 124 Old 09-04-2017, 11:59 AM
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Finally made it. Phenomenal room. Here's hoping you get your pics back up so I can see more of it. I'm going through the process of rebuilding some of my posts. No fun. This room is on my read list.
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post #120 of 124 Old 09-05-2017, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally made it. Phenomenal room. Here's hoping you get your pics back up so I can see more of it. I'm going through the process of rebuilding some of my posts. No fun. This room is on my read list.
Thanks

Yeah, tell me about it, Photobucket really ruined pretty much all of the internet. There are so many forums and threads that are without pics now, it is unbelivable.

Speaking of threads: do you have a thread about your HT? Cause that would be on my list I found a couple speaker build thread of yours, but that's it.

Triple Atmos Receivers
Atmos 13.1.8/DTS:X 9.1.8/AURO 3D 12.1

My setup:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/29-wha...l#post41323201
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