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post #271 of 399 Old 10-01-2012, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sindy Ahh View Post

Earlier this year....
http://www.justice.gov/usao/nys/pressreleases/April12/haggardkerrysentencing.html
Of course this subject would be better off in another thread.

I am quite aware of the Kerry haggard situation. This was not a case of selling original material, nor was it a case of copying images for personal use or to sell them as reproductions.

This scum took old paper, bleached off the images and then printed them with images for highly valuable Universal Horror paper. He then proceeded to sell this material to the collector market as original material, worth in the tens of thousands of dollars. Thus the misreprensentation became a case of outright fraud. His work was skilled enough that it fooled a number of highly respected collectors and dealers. Add to that the fact that Mr haggard was a long time collector who up until that point had a good reputation in the community.
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post #272 of 399 Old 10-02-2012, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jayn_j View Post

I am quite aware of the Kerry haggard situation. This was not a case of selling original material, nor was it a case of copying images for personal use or to sell them as reproductions.

The way I see it, he was making forgeries and trying to pass them off as the real thing. With that said, does it really matter that he used old stock and bleached it, and then mounted the fakes on top of it to make it look authentic? Imo it doesn't mater, because it's basically the same thing as any thief that prints counterfeit money. Example, it doesn't really mater if the paper used is stolen from the mint, or regular stuff that is made to look and feel as close as possible to the real thing, the end result is the same.... they are trying to pass counterfeits/fakes.

In HK's case he was able to do that for as long as he did, simply because he had access to the base material that would help him fool these poor victims, and printers that were willing to help print up these fakes.

Anyway, If raymondeast is saying that he found an eBay guy that is willing to do that kind of stuff, then (imo) that eBay guy is just as bad as HK (on a much smaller scale). What I question is, if that eBay guy is willing to do this kind of stuff, could that also mean that he might have done it before for others and he has no qualms about it? Apparently so. There's and old saying, if it quacks like a duck....



And to at least try to get back on topic.... did you ever get a chance to measure that lower frame gap? : )
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post #273 of 399 Old 10-03-2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sindy Ahh View Post

The way I see it, he was making forgeries and trying to pass them off as the real thing. With that said, does it really matter that he used old stock and bleached it, and then mounted the fakes on top of it to make it look authentic? Imo it doesn't mater, because it's basically the same thing as any thief that prints counterfeit money. Example, it doesn't really mater if the paper used is stolen from the mint, or regular stuff that is made to look and feel as close as possible to the real thing, the end result is the same.... they are trying to pass counterfeits/fakes.
In HK's case he was able to do that for as long as he did, simply because he had access to the base material that would help him fool these poor victims, and printers that were willing to help print up these fakes.
Anyway, If raymondeast is saying that he found an eBay guy that is willing to do that kind of stuff, then (imo) that eBay guy is just as bad as HK (on a much smaller scale). What I question is, if that eBay guy is willing to do this kind of stuff, could that also mean that he might have done it before for others and he has no qualms about it? Apparently so. There's and old saying, if it quacks like a duck....
And to at least try to get back on topic.... did you ever get a chance to measure that lower frame gap? : )

Oops. Totally spaced it. I'll try again tonight.

Just to finish this off from my side. What made kerry haggard special was that he was working from a position of knowlege and trust. People were inclined to believe him because he had a reputation for dealing in rare material. He also had the knowlege necessary to create and age lobby cards in order to make them pass most tests.

Most of the people who deal in forgeries don't even bother to try very hard. They know that most people want the image and don't really care. The ones I have problems with are those that make a serious effort to pass off counterfit material as real. egbert, bradburied and, tloce on eBay, The 'Rochester' group that created the minty white inserts and lobbies. Those are the folks that continue to flourish, especially over on ebay while legitimate dealers are harrassed for being honest. Lots of threads about this topic over on allposterforum.
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post #274 of 399 Old 10-06-2012, 04:22 PM
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I was wrong. The Spotlight frame does not have a channel for the diffuser, although it looks like it does in the picture. In order to add a diffuser, you would need to chamfer out the wood used for the lightbox itself and mount it between the frame and the box.
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post #275 of 399 Old 10-07-2012, 11:14 AM
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That's what I though. Thanks.
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post #276 of 399 Old 10-25-2012, 03:20 PM
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Well, it seems that my led rolls are lost in the mail somewhere. Over a month of waiting and nada. frown.gif
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post #277 of 399 Old 11-15-2012, 01:10 PM
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Hi folks,

I have gathered my materials together and am about to start building two frames very similar to cuzed's.

I ordered LED lights from Amazon to try to save some shipping time. (I wanted to get these done to show to family on Thanksgiving.) Unfortunately, that backfired and the lights I received aren't as the product is described on Amazon and I'm looking for some opinions on whether I need to return these for the correct lights.

So here's the problem...the backer strip is black rather than white (as in the left half of the pic below). Do you guys think this will be a visible issue through the acrylic diffuser and the poster? (I'm using the same 1/16 Acrylite satin ice many others have used.)

Thanks for the opinions!

Here's what arrived versus what I was hoping to get, and here is a link to the actual product (mine was sold by LEDwholesalers.com). (You can see in the product description that it clearly says "PCB Background: pure white.")

LEDLights.jpg

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #278 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 09:10 AM
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Hey AirBenji, my local supplier only has these with black backer as well. Did you give it a try or are you waiting on the white?
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post #279 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 10:52 AM
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enzrocks - Thanks for prompting me to post this...


Here are the details on how I built my poster frames:

First, I knew going into this that my design would have the drawback of being very heavy. It's about 1/4 sheet of 3/4" MDF and 1/3 sheet of 1/2" OSB, plus the trim, marker board, and spotlight frame. I would have used something lighter than 1/2" OSB for the back of the frame, but I don't have a way to get large sheet goods home with my car and I already had the OSB at home, so that was an easy choice. smile.gif

My molding is about an inch wide, so I needed a flat surfact to mount both the spotlight frame and the molding. I started by ripping eight 3.25" wide strips of 3/4" MDF. I doubled them up with glue and some nails to make 4 strips. Then I mitered the corners and made the strips into a picture frame using my trusty Kreg jig (great tool btw). The outside dimensions of the frame are 34x47". (And nevermind that ridiculously messy workspace!) rolleyes.gif

IMG_2366.jpg

IMG_2370.jpg


Then I attached my OSB to the back of the frame. I used these Spax screws that do not require pre-drilling even with MDF and had great results.

IMG_2372.jpg

IMG_2373.jpg


Then I flipped it over and primed and painted...then added the trim around the outside.

IMG_2375.jpg

IMG_2382.jpg


Then I took a break and ate some of this (a 35 pounder!). There may have also been some beer involved.

IMG_2357.jpg


Next I dropped in a piece of dry erase marker board and attached it with glue. It is nice and reflective and pretty cheap ($10). I also laid down a light strip to see how many vertical runs I could get per strip. I was able to just eek out 5 per strip, or 20 rows total once all four strips are added. So I measured on the marker board and drew my lines 1 5/16" apart.

IMG_2383.jpg


The lines for the lights in this pic are really tough to see, but they're there...

IMG_2389.jpg


Next I stuck the lights onto the marker board and soldered everything up (after buying an iron and learning how to solder in 10 min on youtube redface.gif). I also applied that silver reflective waterproof HVAC tape to the sides of the MDF strips to reflect light back from the edges of the frame.

IMG_2394.jpg


And it works!

IMG_2397.jpg


Then I took break #2 ate some of these. I think there was also more beer involved. And a nap.

IMG_23631.jpg


Then attach your spotlight frame inside the molding and voila!

IMG_2396.jpg


My lights are 1 3/8" behind the acrylic and are very adequately diffused for me. I will take a pic tonight of the acrylic in front of these lights - you can barely see the strings through the acrylic and once the poster is in front of the acrylic, you really have to stare at it for a while and concentrate to see that there are any strings of lights back there. I had two friends over yesterday and asked them to try to distinguish any strings/strips/patterns in the lighting of the poster and they could not - they actually guessed that the strips were running horizontally rather than vertically, so I'm pretty satisfied that the black strips are fine.

Here are a few pics with posters in the frame. smile.gif I hung the frame last night and will be putting the final outside trim on tonight (to hide the MDF and OSB edges). I will post a finished pic tomorrow!

Skyfall - definitely no lines visible here:

IMG_2407.jpg


the break-up - What look like lines from the strip lights are visible near the top of the poster by the actors' names. However, I think this is deceiving and the variations are generated by the poster rather than the lighting: the gray wall behind them is actually quite varied in color. (Check out the actors' names - they are very evenly lit.) And in the middle of the poster there are no lines at all. Unfortunately, I don't own any more light-colored posters to prove this point...maybe Santa will bring me a bunch. smile.gif I can see these posters turning into an expensive little side hobby! rolleyes.gif

IMG_2411.jpg

IMG_2413.jpg

IMG_2417.jpg


Anyway, a very fun weekend project. I learned to solder and made some cool frames! (The second one will be finished this week.)

Thanks very much to cuzed, moggie, and others for this thread and for helping me plan my frames.

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #280 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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AirBenji,

Your thread makes for a VERY nice addition to this thread - Thank You!
I'm relieved the black-backing strip lights turned out well
Your poster turned out great - Nicely Done!!

A few questions:
So you have 4 strings of LED tapes, powered by one PS?
Where will you mount the supply, and how warm does it get?
Curious where you got your diffuser panel, perhaps the same place I did; Evonik Industries?

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post #281 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 01:07 PM
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a buddy on another forum is saying he has a source that is willing to provide custom sized led backlights in the density used in LED TVs. If so, it woud provide a more even light, and the frame could be made even thinner. I am following up with the guy and will keep you posted if anything develops on this.
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post #282 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 01:14 PM
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Thanks Cuzed! I think my power supply is the same one you used, and yes - it powers four strings of lights. I left the frame on for about 1.5 hours yesterday to check on the heat buildup in the PS. It got pretty warm, but not hot...I could certainly hold it in my hand for a while without being uncomfortable. A lot like my laptop PS. The acrylic diffuser is also the same as others here have used: Evonik Industries (link below).

The jury is still out on how to mount the power supply...I used 18AWG wire and I know that's not supposed to be inside the drywall... Does anyone have a creative suggestion on how to mount these so that my wires and PS won't show? Thanks!!

Here are all of the materials I used in building my frames:

Spotlight Displays Wide Border Poster Frame x 2 ($145)

LED Strip Lights x 8 ($85.36)

12V 5A 60W Power Supply x 2 ($51)

Acrylite Satin Ice Acrylic 27” x 40” (1/16th thick) x 2 ($90)

Nashua Waterproofing Repair Tape to reflect light on frame edges ($11)

Spax Hardwood and MDF Screws ($8)

¾” 2’x4’ MDF for frame spacers x 3 ($32.31)

1/8” 3’x4’ Marker Board to line box x 2 ($22.70)

Hardwood Shoe Molding for frame surround x 30’ ($29.80)

Baseboard trim for frame sides x 30’ (had on hand but about $50)

I had never soldered before, so I also bought a cheap iron and wire from radio shack ($35).

So in all, about $550 for two frames. I am really happy with how they turned out and the trim matches my theater, which is an added bonus to building them yourself.

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #283 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
There may have also been some beer involved.
: )
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post #284 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 03:53 PM
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Good news, I finally received my led rolls. smile.gif

1. a 5050 with 300 leds per 5m roll.
2. a 3528 with 600 leds per 5m roll.

The 3528 roll has double the leds than what you guys have been using since the start of this thread (600 vs 300).

After testing both rolls/strips, I can now say for certain that the 5050's are brighter than the 3528's even with the 28's having double the amount of leds than the 50's (600 vs 300 per roll). I also did a quick test to see how far away the 50's would need to be to not leave any hot spots on the acrylic. Turns out that I'd have to keep it back between 3-4 inches or more. That's quite a bit more than what I wanted, because I was looking for a frame in/around the 2" to 3" max thickness.

The second test I did was with the 5050 roll/strip laying on it's side to shine light sideways across the acrylic instead of at it's backside (the edge lit method I was looking in to doing). For best light output when edge lighting, you are suppose to place the leds at the edge of the glass/acrylic, and then either frost or etch the glass surface with dots or lines to help reflect/refract light (this is what edge lit led tv's use.... know as a "light guide").




I didn't have a test sheet of glass or plexi, so all I did was set up the leds on their sides in a rectangle shape, and then I gently laid the snap frame on top of the big rectangle. I used the black and white Amazing Spider Man DS poster I had for the test.



The light output was still good (even with my hardwood floor as a backing for the test). I would imaging that a bright white floor/background material would give an even better light reflection towards the acrylic sheet (which is already mounted in my frame). The overall light output from the acrylic sheet is not as bright as that of the back lighting method shown in this thread, but it still lights up well imo.

As a plus, I didn't need the whole 5m led roll (only about 130" of it, which is less than 3.5 meters). That's way less leds with a much lower power draw than what you guys are using. If I wanted to, I could probbaly do a double row of leds around the frame to get even more light output just in case one row was not enough for my liking. That would be around 7m of leds (which is still far less than what you guys have used).

I also stopped at Home Depot to pick up some aluminum C channels to use as a mounting frame for the leds. I'm going to cut the channel into a frame which will be attached to the back of the snap frame (with either small rivets or sheet metal screws). If it works well, my lighted poster frame will be about 1.5" - 2" deep when done (and that includes the snap frame). smile.gif

The C channel I bought.
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/crown-bolt-aluminum-3-4-in-x-96-in-c-channel-1-16-in-thick-56870.html

The channel was around $10+tax. (I needed 2 of them)

The only thing I need now is a bright reflective backing for the frame. I'm still deciding what I'm going to use (either a white melamine/dry erase board as some of you have used, or a lexan/plexi mirror). The white backing would be another $10 more or less.

Total costs spent so far for the build (est): $174.

Snap frame with shipping......... $75
2x 96" C channel from HD......... $22
White frost Lexan cut to size.... $50
1 roll of 5050/300 leds............. $16
5A 60w power supply................$10
1 power connector for led strip.. $1

I'll post some pics when I start to put the frame together. smile.gif
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post #285 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
The jury is still out on how to mount the power supply...I used 18AWG wire and I know that's not supposed to be inside the drywall... Does anyone have a creative suggestion on how to mount these so that my wires and PS won't show? Thanks!!

How about making a cutout/cove behind the poster frame to place the power adapter in? The power adapter would be covered/hidden by the poster fame when done.
(like a box/frame for a TV power/connection cutout) smile.gif





Those boxes come in various sizes. All you need to do is find one that is big/deep enough to hold the adapter with it's wire and plug.

You can then drill a small hole in the frame (on the back side) to use a small connection plug for the power strip. That will allow for quick and easy access for removing the frame from the wall without having to worry about the power adapter.



(that's the same connector I bought for my frame)
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post #286 of 399 Old 11-26-2012, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

The jury is still out on how to mount the power supply...I used 18AWG wire and I know that's not supposed to be inside the drywall... Does anyone have a creative suggestion on how to mount these so that my wires and PS won't show? Thanks!!

I ran some monoprice in-wall 12 ga. speaker wire from my 12v. PS in my equipment closet up thru the wall to the backside of my poster frame. For in the wall I would go with some heavier in-wall rated wire (12 or 14 gauge).
I also like Sindy's idea of an in-wall metal enclosure for the PS.

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post #287 of 399 Old 11-27-2012, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sindy Ahh View Post

How about making a cutout/cove behind the poster frame to place the power adapter in? The power adapter would be covered/hidden by the poster fame when done.
(like a box/frame for a TV power/connection cutout) smile.gif
Those boxes come in various sizes. All you need to do is find one that is big/deep enough to hold the adapter with it's wire and plug.
You can then drill a small hole in the frame (on the back side) to use a small connection plug for the power strip. That will allow for quick and easy access for removing the frame from the wall without having to worry about the power adapter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

I ran some monoprice in-wall 12 ga. speaker wire from my 12v. PS in my equipment closet up thru the wall to the backside of my poster frame. For in the wall I would go with some heavier in-wall rated wire (12 or 14 gauge).
I also like Sindy's idea of an in-wall metal enclosure for the PS.


Excellent - thanks for the ideas guys! I think I will try Sindy's idea. I will attach the frames to a switch with motion detection so that I don't accidentally leave them on and let the PS's get too hot.

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #288 of 399 Old 11-27-2012, 11:32 AM
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I took a few more pics last night to try to get a more accurate representation of the diffusion at a depth of 1 3/8" and with 4 strings of lights. Disclaimer: I am a pretty pathetic photographer (and these are all from my iPhone). rolleyes.gif

Lights off. This is essentially how it looks in person:
IMG_2486-Marquee.jpg


Here is another with the lights off, but dimmed down quite a bit by the camera. You can see the strips a bit here, but I think this is less accurate than the previous pic:
IMG_2485-Copy.jpg


With the illumnation off:
IMG_2495-Copy.jpg


And with it on:
IMG_2493.jpg


These are such a cool addition to the theater - thanks for the great idea all!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #289 of 399 Old 11-27-2012, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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After seeing these shots; I do NOT think the black-backed LEDs hurt you at all.
My blank illuminated diffuser panel (with white backed LEDs) looked very similar to your shots.

My last recommendations are safety related - make sure and feed the light box power via (properly rated*) and heavier 14 gauge wiring.
* The CL2 rating on a cable indicates that its outer jacket has been designed to burn more slowly, thereby making it safe for use inside or through the walls of residential classed buildings. The CL2 rating ensures that your cable installation complies with fire safety codes and insurance requirements.

And if you go in-wall with that PS - make sure it is in a roomy steel enclosure (as mentioned above) .

However; after seeing you have a suspended ceiling; I wonder if the following could be done to comply with code:
Perhaps you mount your PS to a large steel conduit box (think heat sink),
Then you could use that same conduit box, powered by 110v thru a BX whip to power your 12 v supply from somewhere in the space above your suspended ceiling.
The whole thing could be accessible above a ceiling tile?

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post #290 of 399 Old 11-27-2012, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sindy Ahh View Post

How about making a cutout/cove behind the poster frame to place the power adapter in? The power adapter would be covered/hidden by the poster fame when done.
(like a box/frame for a TV power/connection cutout) smile.gif...

This is kind of what I did with my solution... but rather than just a cut out to hold the power adapter, I made a cut out to hold the entire light fixture, with the objective to have this as low profile as possible. I still prefer the look of florescent light boxes over led's.
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post #291 of 399 Old 12-08-2012, 05:34 PM
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Its not a light box per se .. But I used meyer64's software and I built this LCD poster display this weekend!
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post #292 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Love the LCD "poster-display" ! Which LCD / TV/Flat panel did you use?

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Check out a video of my theater here
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post #293 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Love the LCD "poster-display" ! Which LCD / TV/Flat panel did you use?

Thanks, I just had an old cheap 'Olevia' that I had laying around. So it is not nice and thin like the new TVs, the box is about 5" deep. I had spoken to Jayn_J on another forum about picking up some LED panels so that I could make up some nice thin light boxes (~1-2"). If I can get those I'll post up some more info in here.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/olevia-lcd-tv/olevia-532h.html

However with Meyers Movie Poster software and a nice TV panel you could stream countless posters with out the trouble of changing them out and the possibility of damaging them. Although it could potentially be a lot more expensive than a standard light box.
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post #294 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Great idea and I agree completely!
For me the key would be the panel price

Maybe for my next HT build....

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post #295 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 09:07 AM
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Ive contacted a few suppliers about the LED panels, I'm working out the prices and logistics at the moment. If that becomes a reality I'll for sure post up here with all of the details.

As for the TV/Virtual poster frame. The only drawbacks that I can see now are;
a) you need a PC to run it so that you can stream the posters to the display and your screen has to be connected to the PC
b) the cost of the TV; to match the size of an actual move post you'd have to have a 46-50" TV screen making it even more expensive
c) Meyers software is pretty much still beta, so there can be glitches at times

However, If I could pick up a large TV at a low price and possibly mount a WIDI (wireless screen) box with the TV then all youd have to worry about is power and that would be ideal! Now if we can just develop wireless power supplies!! smile.gif
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post #296 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 09:18 AM
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Hmmmm, just thinking out loud. Anyway to take the guts from a digital picture frame that uses a flash drive, install them with a larger screen, and thus eliminate the need for the computer?
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post #297 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Goof stuff!
Somewhere on AVS (couple yrs back).
Someone made a " poster display" using a 42" tv, and posters were shown via USB stick.

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post #298 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 09:38 AM
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I haven't kept up with too many TV options lately but IIRC, some TV's have a photo "slideshow" option built into the internal software. You can stream photos from a USB and possibly a network share. As for pulling an LCD photo frame internals. Id worry about how they would interface with one another, Id assume that the frame has the USB hard wired to a boards that's hardwired to the LCD display. So you'd have to be 100% sure that you could attach the photo display hardware to the larger LCD panel. I think something like that would be beyond my skills and finding a TV that can slideshow photos would be easier.

The only draw back to using a USB or even a network share. You'd have to source and update all of the photos yourself. That's part of whats nice about Meyer's software, it is constantly pulling new posters from the web (I catch myself watching it to see the new posters pop up, smile.gif) and it shows items that are in your library as well as the "Now Playing" screen that shows whatever movie you are watching and gives all the stats of the video you are watching; ie. rating, sound stats (DD 5.1 ect.), aspect ratio and resolution. Its a pretty neat software, I just wish we were further along with WIDI support, although some TV's come with it natively now. So maybe I can source a TV with WIDI built in on sale somewhere.
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post #299 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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The "Meyers software sounds pretty slick. I'll. have to check it out

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post #300 of 399 Old 12-09-2012, 10:23 AM
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