Another DIY poster/marquee light-box - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 401 Old 05-28-2013, 07:42 PM
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I think you can find a 12v dimmer switch that you can wire in.
http://www.elementalled.com/12v-inline-dimmer-switch.html
I added an on/off switch to my lightbox. If yourlights are not dimmable, Maybe you can wire the lights into two banks, controlled by separate switches. Or maybe a diffuser sheet to go behind the artwork, but that might be expensive. Just throwing out ideas.
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post #362 of 401 Old 05-29-2013, 10:12 AM
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Thanks for the ideas, I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004X4O1NG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I think I have a defective one, the up and down buttons do nothing and the on off button goes from full on to a tiny tiny tiny bit dimmer, so I'm returning it for a refund and have ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009Z7SSAS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 hopefully I'll have better luck with that.

There is already a diffuser sheet of opal frosted acrylic behind the artwork which gives a really nice even light, the first 2 pictures on http://fanart.tv/2013/05/custom-made-doctor-who-lightbox-poster/ under "The Construction" that is the diffuser you can see rather than the back of the artwork.
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post #363 of 401 Old 06-29-2013, 09:24 AM
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hey all,

i'm having a bit of trouble. so currently my leds are setup in parallel with 18 strips. They work fine whenever i connect to straight to a dc connector or even my ir receiver. when i try to use this rf receiver http://www.ebay.com/itm/181115798171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649, it does not do anything. before i was able to get it to light up but it would blink for no odd reason. I was thinking maybe i was shorting the circuit somewhere or the solder i bought wasn't making a good connection, but everything seems to be good. Currently, whenever i plug in the rf controller, the lights blink once then they all go dead. For some reason, it stops pulling current through the controller as measured with a multimeter. Any idea what could be going on? I really want to make this rf controller work.

oh and each strip is about 1 meter long
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post #364 of 401 Old 06-29-2013, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kode View Post

Thanks for the ideas, I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004X4O1NG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I think I have a defective one, the up and down buttons do nothing and the on off button goes from full on to a tiny tiny tiny bit dimmer, so I'm returning it for a refund and have ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009Z7SSAS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 hopefully I'll have better luck with that.

There is already a diffuser sheet of opal frosted acrylic behind the artwork which gives a really nice even light, the first 2 pictures on http://fanart.tv/2013/05/custom-made-doctor-who-lightbox-poster/ under "The Construction" that is the diffuser you can see rather than the back of the artwork.

Hey i saw that you were having problems were your RF receiver. how did you setup your lights? Looks like the light setup for leds don't work well if rf receivers.
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post #365 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 06:43 AM
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So my project for finding a manufacture that can produce some nice but affordable LED frames took a back seat for a while, but I think I may have found someone who can do it. I am just looking for some feedback from people who have knowledge about these kinds of frames and know what they would like and what they would expect if paying for a product like this. So I figured why not ask you guys! smile.gif

Some of the key points are:
SMD LED’s 3014 with 80,000 hour life span, Beam Angle of 120°, Color Temp 6500K
Diffuser Panel is 5mm thick with LED’s on all 4 sides
Frames are 18mm (0.7in) deep and 30mm (1.18in) wide
3A AC/DC Adaptor
Non-Glare Overlay

and here are some photos..
Frame+Front.jpg
Frame+Back.JPG
Frame+Side.JPG
Diffuser.jpg

I'm eager to hear what you all think! So let me know!
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post #366 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 07:50 AM
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That first pic looks like a nice frame and from the looks of the 3rd pic, they're pretty thin overall. I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at in the 2nd pic - is that the back view? It appears the light distribution is pretty good and would work well for movie posters. What would something like this cost?

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post #367 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

That first pic looks like a nice frame and from the looks of the 3rd pic, they're pretty thin overall. I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at in the 2nd pic - is that the back view? It appears the light distribution is pretty good and would work well for movie posters. What would something like this cost?

Sorry, I should have labeled the photos.. the 2nd photo is a picture from the back of the frame. The last one is a picture of the diffuser.

As for cost, I am still waiting on some final numbers to come in but it is looking like they would be close to $275 + shipping. That price seems close to some of the ready made ones you can buy on ebay.. but they are larger and use florescent bulbs instead of LED's. So I do feel this could be a better product. Also, I hadn't added this picture but, one of the main issues I had with most of the DIY boxes was the laptop style power bricks. So I purposely found one that uses a wall adapter instead. I have multiple options with the frames I pictured above, we can add inline power switches, we can use a 1.5A or a 3A device (this is based on using LED's on 2 sides or all 4 sides of the panel).

Here is a 1.5A with the optional switch ..
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post #368 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fallenangel1 View Post

So my project for finding a manufacture that can produce some nice but affordable LED frames took a back seat for a while, but I think I may have found someone who can do it. I am just looking for some feedback from people who have knowledge about these kinds of frames and know what they would like and what they would expect if paying for a product like this. So I figured why not ask you guys! smile.gif

Some of the key points are:
SMD LED’s 3014 with 80,000 hour life span, Beam Angle of 120°, Color Temp 6500K
Diffuser Panel is 5mm thick with LED’s on all 4 sides
Frames are 18mm (0.7in) deep and 30mm (1.18in) wide
3A AC/DC Adaptor
Non-Glare Overlay

and here are some photos..
Frame+Front.jpg
Frame+Back.JPG
Frame+Side.JPG
Diffuser.jpg

I'm eager to hear what you all think! So let me know!

Depending on final price this could be a very nice find.
Hopefully these are edge-lit? I was assuming edge-lit until I got to that final photo of the diffuser....

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post #369 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Depending on final price this could be a very nice find.
Hopefully these are edge-lit? I was assuming edge-lit until I got to that final photo of the diffuser....

The possible price right now, pre-ordering/shipping and all that is looking to be around $275+shipping to the buyer.

As for the LED, yes it is edge lit.. There can be multiple options, based on what buyers want. I can have them with LED's on all 4 sides or just LED's on the 2 long sides.

I must ask, why did you say "Hopefully these are edge lit"? I am actually working on a design that is similar to most everyone's in here where it is back-lit with something like 6 rows of LED's with a diffuser panel to even the light out and internal power supplies so that the plug will just be a typical wall plug (no ugly bricks or ac adapters). It will not be as thin as the design I have pictured above, but to me the internal power supplies will be worth it to get rid of the adapters/bricks.
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post #370 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fallenangel1 View Post

Sorry, I should have labeled the photos.. the 2nd photo is a picture from the back of the frame. The last one is a picture of the diffuser.

As for cost, I am still waiting on some final numbers to come in but it is looking like they would be close to $275 + shipping. That price seems close to some of the ready made ones you can buy on ebay.. but they are larger and use florescent bulbs instead of LED's. So I do feel this could be a better product. Also, I hadn't added this picture but, one of the main issues I had with most of the DIY boxes was the laptop style power bricks. So I purposely found one that uses a wall adapter instead. I have multiple options with the frames I pictured above, we can add inline power switches, we can use a 1.5A or a 3A device (this is based on using LED's on 2 sides or all 4 sides of the panel).
$275 is a good price point I would think. I purchased one of those "ebay" ones about 9 years ago for $215 and it was thick, bulky and didn't include the bulbs. My 2nd time around I went the DIY route, but had your product been available, I might have considered it. I can see these tipping the scales for some people that might be on the fence between a DIY one or this one. One thing I don't see - does the frame flip open for easy poster changing?

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post #371 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

$275 is a good price point I would think. I purchased one of those "ebay" ones about 9 years ago for $215 and it was thick, bulky and didn't include the bulbs. My 2nd time around I went the DIY route, but had your product been available, I might have considered it. I can see these tipping the scales for some people that might be on the fence between a DIY one or this one. One thing I don't see - does the frame flip open for easy poster changing?

Great, thanks for posting that. It makes me feel a bit better knowing that people feel that way. smile.gif I don't want to purchase a bunch of these frames just to forced to hang 20 of them all over my house because no one was interested! wink.gif

As for the frame, these are the "flip" style frames that make it easier for you to load and unload posters. There are other options available as far as that goes as well. But the flip frames seem to be the most popular.
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post #372 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fallenangel1 View Post


I must ask, why did you say "Hopefully these are edge lit"? I am actually working on a design that is similar to most everyone's in here where it is back-lit with something like 6 rows of LED's with a diffuser panel to even the light out and internal power supplies so that the plug will just be a typical wall plug (no ugly bricks or ac adapters). It will not be as thin as the design I have pictured above, but to me the internal power supplies will be worth it to get rid of the adapters/bricks.

When I first started my build (this thread); I was after the thinnest, and reasonably affordable frame.
Edge lighting looked like only way to go truly thin. I even found some diffuser material that was suppose to be designed for edge lighting, but it was a bit pricy, and I wasn't yet ready for the challenge of coming up with an interface to mount the LED strips to the edges. From the looks of the unit you have found - it looks like someone has found a way to position edge-lighting integral to the frame with some extruded frame material ?

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post #373 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 04:31 PM
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When I first started my build (this thread); I was after the thinnest, and reasonably affordable frame.
Edge lighting looked like only way to go truly thin. I even found some diffuser material that was suppose to be designed for edge lighting, but it was a bit pricy, and I wasn't yet ready for the challenge of coming up with an interface to mount the LED strips to the edges. From the looks of the unit you have found - it looks like someone has found a way to position edge-lighting integral to the frame with some extruded frame material ?

Ahh ok I got ya, Personally I'd rather give up "some" of the thinness for an internal power supply and you can place more LED's in the frame when not edge lighting. Although I am not to sure more LED's are better, I sort of got the feeling that some of the frames I've seen in here are too bright. Maybe it was pics of single sided posters or the camera taking the picture, Im not sure but some seemed too washed out, IMHO. smile.gif I guess we all have our own list of expectations for the perfect lightbox. smile.gif
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post #374 of 401 Old 08-01-2013, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fallenangel1 View Post

Personally I'd rather give up "some" of the thinness for an internal power supply and you can place more LED's in the frame when not edge lighting.

My personal preference is to give priority to making it as thin as possible since in my case the frames will be near a wall corner, creating an up close side view of the frames at times. An internal PS would add no value to me since I will be hiding mine, and all the cords, in an outlet pocket recessed into the wall behind the frame. Though our preferences differ, I don't think either is right or wrong, nor one design better than the other in all situations. You seem to be leaning towards offering different choices, and I think that is wise instead of going for a one-size-fits-all approach.

I think at least to some degree you can offset the problem of less room for LEDs with edge lighting (compared to back lighting) by using brighter LEDs to achieve the same total light output. But I think as one attempts to use a "fewer but brighter" LED lighting approach, the quality of the diffuser becomes much more critical.

On the internal PS option, if I was interested in that option I would have concerns about possible heat build up that might be harsh on my posters. An internal PS wouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker, but you would have to convince me that you are aware of the potential issue and that you did your homework, design, testing, etc accordingly and adequately to insure that the heat build up wouldn't become excessive.

The frames you pictured looked very nice, I think are at a very reasonable price point, and I think you will have no problem finding demand. But keep in mind that a certain percentage of people will still want to take the DIY approach even if it reaches a point such that they know it will be a little more expensive to DIY. Some people place a lot of value in the pride of knowing "I made that" every time they walk by one of their DIY projects, and prefer to build exactly what they want. But I'm sure there are many more people that don't have the ability, time, and/or desire to DIY, and that would love to buy one of yours.
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post #375 of 401 Old 08-02-2013, 04:53 AM
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Thanks for sharing Wade, I hope to offer many different options based upon what each buyer wants. The current frame model seems to fit what you are looking for, it is the thinnest that I have seen. Also, there are two options on where the cord can come out of the frame as well. So in your case, where you have the cords hidden behind the frame we can have the cord come out the rear of the frame as well instead of the bottom (or top depending on how you flip it). Some people will not want or be able to create the recess in their walls and would possibly prefer the cord coming out of the bottom so that thy can plug it in, in an outlet below the frame.

As for using brighter LED's, I was hoping to use some 5050's or other brighter LED's with these frames .. but then the "thinness" became an issue. The current model is too small for the larger/brighter LED's. So the best we can do is increase the number of LED's by placing them along all 4 sides of the diffuser panel. Whereas most others (typically) only have 2 strips of LED's down the long sides.

So if anyone is interested in picking one up feel free to let me know. Currently I plan on getting 5 in my first shipment, some for my personal use and to take photos of and to satisfy overall questions about them. But if you are an early adopter I can add more to the initial order to ensure the least amount of wait time possible.

Here is an album that I was putting together with the relevant photos, including the one with the cord coming out the back of the frame as well as the different size adapters.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/106177607191254337017/albums/5907132654745010817
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post #376 of 401 Old 08-02-2013, 06:28 AM
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Two things keep coming to mind for me. Neither is a deal breaker.

First, I am a little concerned over the wall wart vs the brick. The brick is easier to hide in a system, especially when you are trying to place the socket behind the poster. You can be limited by the design of the recessed socket. Further, I would like to see the current draw from the LEDs vs the capacity of this wart. It seems a bit small, and a number of folks in this thread found out that they needed higher power warts for their designs.

The second thing is when setting up for rear exit of the cord, the cord is coming out right at the corner of the frame. This is going to make it difficult to build a recessed outlet that doesn't stick out past the edge of the frame. Not impossible, but it will need to be a tight and careful job of fitting.
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post #377 of 401 Old 08-02-2013, 07:35 AM
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Well depending on if you wanted 2 sides LED's or 4 sides LED's the adapters would change. If you were happy with 2 sides, the smaller adapter is only 1.7" x 2.3" x 1.3" (which is a lot smaller than most laptop style bricks) could be hidden easily in a recessed area behind a frame. However the adapter used with 4 sides of LED's is pretty close to the same size as a small "brick" (1.3" x 1.75" x 3.8") making it a little more cumbersome than the small adapter but (IMHO) still better than dealing with a brick. smile.gif

I guess overall it will differ person to person on how they are hanging the frames and where the outlets are located. But over all I don't see the "warts" causing more of a hassle than a "brick". If you are mounting a brick behind the frame it may be easier to plug it in somewhere but you still have to do something with the brick as well. So a larger recessed area is needed for the plug itself that sticks out ~2" then the 3-6 feet of cord and the brick that could be about 1" x 1.75" x 4".

As far as the electrical capacity, I would love to go in to in depth detail explaining everything. But I cannot, I am not that smart, but from my research and one of the reasons I was willing to go with these frames in particular is that the 3014/3528 LED's use less electricity than the 5050/5630's. Not to mention that since these are edge lit there are far fewer LED's in the frame than with those who have 5+ strips of 50-100 of the 5630 LED's. So in short, these frames can get away with the same or smaller power supplies due to there being few LED's and those LED's needing less power.

Has anyone ever taken your advise and actually measured the draw or outputs of their LEDs/power supplies here? This is delving into an area that I am not familiar with, but I have noticed when reading up on the LED's that most 5050's state that the strips are cut-able at every 3rd LED but there is usually a note about the power needed, that if you cut at 3 you can use a 12v power supply but if you cut at 6 LED's you need a 24v power supply. Now I'm just reading stats sheets, not how to guides, so they dont really explain if they expect every roll to be cut up into strips of 3 or 6 .. or if anything over 6 LED's should have 24v or possibly more depending on the length.
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post #378 of 401 Old 08-02-2013, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fallenangel1 View Post

Thanks for sharing Wade, I hope to offer many different options based upon what each buyer wants. The current frame model seems to fit what you are looking for, it is the thinnest that I have seen. Also, there are two options on where the cord can come out of the frame as well. So in your case, where you have the cords hidden behind the frame we can have the cord come out the rear of the frame as well instead of the bottom (or top depending on how you flip it). Some people will not want or be able to create the recess in their walls and would possibly prefer the cord coming out of the bottom so that thy can plug it in, in an outlet below the frame.

As for using brighter LED's, I was hoping to use some 5050's or other brighter LED's with these frames .. but then the "thinness" became an issue. The current model is too small for the larger/brighter LED's. So the best we can do is increase the number of LED's by placing them along all 4 sides of the diffuser panel. Whereas most others (typically) only have 2 strips of LED's down the long sides.

So if anyone is interested in picking one up feel free to let me know. Currently I plan on getting 5 in my first shipment, some for my personal use and to take photos of and to satisfy overall questions about them. But if you are an early adopter I can add more to the initial order to ensure the least amount of wait time possible.

Here is an album that I was putting together with the relevant photos, including the one with the cord coming out the back of the frame as well as the different size adapters.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/106177607191254337017/albums/5907132654745010817

Just checked out your photo album - very informative.
Could you add a photo from front with the frame clicked open and no diffusor in place.
The reason for asking; I would be trimming out my future poster boxes with an Oak surround/trim and I would like to see the structure I would be attaching the trim to?
Thanks!

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post #379 of 401 Old 08-02-2013, 07:53 AM
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I'll see what I can do! With it being Friday, I may not be able to get the photo uploaded until Monday though. frown.gif
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post #380 of 401 Old 08-05-2013, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Just checked out your photo album - very informative.
Could you add a photo from front with the frame clicked open and no diffusor in place.
The reason for asking; I would be trimming out my future poster boxes with an Oak surround/trim and I would like to see the structure I would be attaching the trim to?
Thanks!

So I heard back from my supplier, and apparently, they do not have the frame style that I am looking at in their show room. So they cannot get a photo from the front of the frame without anything in it. I think they may be worried I am affiliated with some of their competition because of the number of questions and specialized photos that I am asking for. smile.gif My contact has flat out said they have to wonder about that with me, I thought it was funny, but I guess in a place where copyrights don't necessarily mean anything, they have to keep an eye out. The best they could do, was refer me to the photo of the rear of the frame. Sorry I couldn't do any better.
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post #381 of 401 Old 08-05-2013, 04:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Fallen Angel,

Thanks for asking! I understand their concern(s). It sure looks to me like a nice product and a good value. I would just like to have the ability to dress-up my frames with some nice wood trim.

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post #382 of 401 Old 08-05-2013, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Fallen Angel,

Thanks for asking! I understand their concern(s). It sure looks to me like a nice product and a good value. I would just like to have the ability to dress-up my frames with some nice wood trim.

No problem, hopefully if I can get the logistics laid out, I will have some on hand (sometime in the next month or so) so that I can take some good photos and some comparison shots for everyone.
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post #383 of 401 Old 08-25-2013, 07:32 PM
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What temperature are your 3258 LED's running? I hit mine with a temp gun and they are running around 135 degrees. Almost too hot to touch. I'm building a box and have two 15' rolls in my box cut into 6 strips. Using 20 gauge wire. Also using either a 6 amp or 5 amp power supply.

Thanks
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post #384 of 401 Old 08-26-2013, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C!t!zen View Post

What temperature are your 3258 LED's running? I hit mine with a temp gun and they are running around 135 degrees. Almost too hot to touch. I'm building a box and have two 15' rolls in my box cut into 6 strips. Using 20 gauge wire. Also using either a 6 amp or 5 amp power supply.

Thanks

I don't have a temp gun, but I noticed and was very surprised at how hot a spool of 3258's got when they are turned on still wrapped on a spool which concentrates them in a small area. They do get almost too hot to touch. But you can unroll them and the heat is unnoticeable when touching any one LED. But I know the total heat being generated is still there, just spread out so that you don't notice it. This makes me very concerned about heat build up, especially in planning to use multiple rolls per frame, and I have been planning to incorporate some small ventilation holes in my build to make sure I don't reach heat levels that might harm my posters. I'm not sure it's needed, but I figure better safe than sorry, and it will help satisfy my OCD.
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post #385 of 401 Old 08-27-2013, 03:28 PM
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Thanks for the reply. The lights are spread out but are on reflective ducting tape. I'm not building a normal poster. I'm building a bus shelter poster that's 48"x70". I just ordered 3 more rolls and 10 amp power supply. I read one of the LED product pages that operating temp is about 120 degrees. My temp gun is cheap so my reading could be a little off. Below is an image link.

http://flic.kr/p/fDmzxG
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post #386 of 401 Old 12-26-2013, 07:30 AM
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Ive been trying to figure out how to lite my pinball translites using a 1/4" piece of lexan and trying to light the edges with the led strips. If I could figure this out ...the lighted translite would be maybe 1/2" thick. any ideas on how to make a super thin lighted translite display?

 

...Shadowolph

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post #387 of 401 Old 01-16-2014, 03:44 PM
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usmcss: Robert,
I am new to this forum, but, I have built an edgelit lightbox for 24x36 inch backlight trans media printed on by an Epson Stylus Pro 9900 and I can print up to 44"x XX" posters/banners. I had the trans media framed by a local framer and applied my LED's from the sides using a white backboard. It is OK, but, it was framed in thick wood and is only accessable from the rear.Reading the forum comments, I have investigated in some suppliers of materials I could use possibly in your Spotlight frames. I ordered the latest LED strips which are 4 times brighter than the ones which are mentioned in the forum and wish to order an acrylic diffusion panel which is optimised for edge lighting. But, I don't know what size to order. 24x36LightBoxDisplayLayout2.pdf 125k .pdf file I am attaching a CAD drawing in pdf for your review on an assembly I drew out. I don't have any dimensional specs on the depth, width, and height of your frame. It appears that there are two slits for mounting backpanels and front panels in your frames. I wonder if there is room to put my edgelit design either in the front slot or directly behind the mount opening? It would then be easy to just run the power cable out the side or back. Can you provide me with at least some partial drawings that show the dimensions?
Thank You,
Roy
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24x36LightBoxDisplayLayout2.pdf (125k. pdf file)
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post #388 of 401 Old 01-16-2014, 04:17 PM
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usmcss: Robert
Here is a picture I just took of the LED edge lit picture frame that I had the framer build in my well lit living room. As you can see, it provides plenty of light to display the 24"x36" backlit trans media. The LED's I am waiting on are 4 times brighter than these and will have a professional diffuser to backlight the picture. I am very excited about making a beautiful functional product.
Roy

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post #389 of 401 Old 01-17-2014, 04:43 PM
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Sindy,
Have you gotten any farther on your LED side light project? I am attempting to do the same. I have ordered 5m of 300LED's that are 5620 type. They are 50% brighter than the 5050's and stick them inside a 3/8" or 1/2" C-Channel slot. I found a diffusion panel called an Acrylite LED (EndLighten)
http://www.acrylite-shop.com/US/us/acrylite-led/light-guiding-edge-lit-ga7iwmq7gnt.html
which has diffusion materials within the panel which deflect the light to the outside faces of the panel. You slide the LED's up against the edge of the panel and the light travels through the interior of the panel being deflected to the surface as they travel through the material. You order a panel part number that is suited for the width that you need. It depends on whether you are using single ended or double ended LED's and the width.They will cut to your specifications. The thickness depends on the width and single or double LED's. The distance from the LED's to the edge of the poster opening edge needs to be as wide as the distance between LED's to allow the light at the edges to be diffused enough before reaching the display edge. My panel needs to display 24" x 36" posters. It would be about 25x37 at .157" thickness for double edge lighting and would cost me about $70 shipped. The panel is from Evonik. They can polish the edges, but, I am going to try without the polishing as it almost doubles the price. I wish I knew the width and depth both in front/behind the opening for mounting this LED diffuser frame into either the Spotlight or Snapframe frames. I need at least 0.5 inch depth and at least a 0.5 around all the edges of the opening (24x36) for the C-channel. Do you know those measurements? See my post on page 13 to see an experimental edge display I did without a diffuser. And another post of my diffuser design.
Roy
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post #390 of 401 Old 01-18-2014, 09:15 PM
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Thanks with the help of this form I was able to finish my own light box. I used a movie poster frame you can buy at Wall Mart. Placed a piece of Acrerlic for the backing. Made a thin boarder and used cement glue to the remaining edge of the frame border. Took the backing card board that came with the frame and glued my LED strip lights and glued the card board backing the the back of the frame. It turned out pretty slick and it only coasted me a little over $100.

 

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb451/zork2001/2014-01-182130_zps39015b6e.jpg

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