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Another DIY poster/marquee light-box

120K views 409 replies 45 participants last post by  Tfarrel2 
#1 ·
I am about to try and build an economical, low-profile, low power lighted display for use with movie posters or customized marquee artwork. I know at least one other AVS person is interested in the low-profile approach - so I thought I would post here, and see if others are interested in following along or contributing. For me low profile means less than 2.5" deep (preferably less than
 
#327 ·
Well I'm ok with 1 PS per frame to be honest - 2 is just a bit much.


As I recall I tried a bigger PS when I first built them to avoid having to redo each frame for 2 PSes and it got just as hot as the smaller units.


I'll look around some more and see what I can find. I just don't want to redo the lighting inside as it was a fair bit of work and to be honest I am actually pretty darn happy with the results.


Greg
 
#328 ·
Electricity isn't magic. It follows a strict set of rules.


What is 'magic' is that you all are purchasing random power supplies from random vendors and using them to power varying numbers of strips from different vendors. You need solid numbers.


The only way you are going to know for sure is to take some measurements. Head over to Radio Shack and buy a multimeter that is good to at least 10 Amps. It will cost you around $30-40 and is useful for all sorts of projects.

Break the positive line heading into the lightbox and place the multimeter in series, making sure that DC AMPS are selected, and that it is either autoranging, or the 10A range is selected.

Turn on the lightbox and see what the current draw is. Compare this with the power supply you have selected. In order to keep them running cool and to have some degree of reliability, I would suggest that the power supply be rated at least 50% higher (double is better) than the shown current draw. For example, if the current draw is 5A, I would select a 7.5A or even a 10A power supply.


These cheap chinese power warts tend to be over-rated. If the unit can stand a 10A draw for 10 minutes without frying, they will rate it at 10A. This is why it is best to add some headroom.
 
#329 ·
Well the larger PS seems to have solved the issue. I got a 10A supply and had it plugged for a good 6+ hours yesterday and it was barely even warm so I think my issue is solved.
 
#330 ·
2 done - 5 more to go, one of them being a "special" project which I'll post once it's finished (parts are on backorder).




I used fluorescents instead of LEDs because I had ballasts and bulbs from some old fixtures and I had used them in the past with good results. I forgot to take pictures of the insides before putting the posters in so I'll grab some shots when I get the next set finished.
 
#331 ·
I've read thru this thread twice and am impressed by the creativity and handywork by you guys. I am starting to purchase the parts to built my own poster light box, similar to the cuzed design. I can use a drill but not a saw, so I'll have my cuts done at the home improvement store.

I am still not clear on the power supply needed to run 4 LED strips in 2 "T" configurations. Can I use one of the laptop style ones like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270895151649?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_852wt_952

Or do I need two since the LEDlands product description for the 5M strip says 18W. I don't want any overheating.


I think I will mount the power supply under the box and maybe add an outlet behind the box. With the spotlight frame extending outside the box this will not be visible. I want to keep the mini-connector if possible so if the supply goes bad it will be an easy swap out.

Should I use a female connector like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1mm-DC-12V-24V-Solar-Marine-Wire-connector-LED-light-Wire-MALE-FEMALE-adapter-/261135758655?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3ccce7753f


I found this neat LED junction box, but not sure I need it. It could be mounted in the box with a hole drilled below it for the male end of the power supply:
http://www.oznium.com/junction-box


I also want to incorporate a switch, which would need to go between the female connector to the power supply and the LED strips. Maybe something like this would work since it looks like an easy install and comes pre-wired.
http://www.oznium.com/rocker-switch

I may go with the insteon outletlinc like DaDeuce, since I am aready an insteon user.


Thank you,

Eric
 
#332 ·
Erich,


Thanks for the kind words. That PS you have linked to; the specs suggest that one will not be adequate. I like your idea of including a large frame overhang to hide your PS below the box and outside the wall.


Hopefully others here will chime in. Another person who claims to have found a good PS for 4 strips is Moggie. Maybe he can comment?
 
#333 ·
Eric - I have two frames, each powered by a 12V 5A 60W power supply, and these do get hot. I have some other RGB LEDs around my entrance; two strings powered by an 8A power supply, and this does not get warm. I realize that there is less load on the 8A supply and I haven't tried powering 4 strings with it, but I suggest an 8 - 15A power supply if you're trying to avoid heat buildup.


I just purchased an additional 8A supply yesterday on Amazon for ~$25 (probably not great quality). My guess is that a good quality 15A supply will keep heat to a minimum and should run you ~$75.
 
#334 ·
I am running 10a power supplies on each of my frames that has 4 strings of LEDs.


This was only way I could get the PS to not run hot or shutoff. The 10A ones are working great and have allowed us to enjoy our frames ... finally.


Greg
 
#335 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by erichoya  /t/1392444/another-diy-poster-marquee-light-box/330#post_23312979


I found this neat LED junction box, but not sure I need it. It could be mounted in the box with a hole drilled below it for the male end of the power supply:
http://www.oznium.com/junction-box
I can see this junction box being very useful and looks small enough to keep out of the way. I'd mount the PS on top of the box, if possible, as heat rises and even with those that don't get too hot, there's still heat you don't want building up at the bottom.
 
#336 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by erichoya  /t/1392444/another-diy-poster-marquee-light-box/330#post_23312979


I think I will mount the power supply under the box and maybe add an outlet behind the box. With the spotlight frame extending outside the box this will not be visible. I want to keep the mini-connector if possible so if the supply goes bad it will be an easy swap out.

Should I use a female connector like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1mm-DC-12V-24V-Solar-Marine-Wire-connector-LED-light-Wire-MALE-FEMALE-adapter-/261135758655?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3ccce7753f

If you are going to add an outlet behind the box anyway you might want to consider this: http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Carlon-SC300PRB-Recessed-Dual-Voltage-3-Gang-Old-Work-Plate.html . I've already bought these but haven't installed yet. I'm simply putting a solid/blank wall plate where they have installed the a/v connectors in the picture, and my ps will fit in this cavity behind the light box. But I'm making my boxes like cuzed2's in that the outer frame won't overhang the box, so hiding the ps with frame overhang is not an option for me.


Each PS I bought came with an adapter, but you can buy them separately for very little if needed, such as these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-Easy-Connectors-For-Led-Strip-Light-3528-5050-to-link-Adapter-Power-Supply-/151045145481?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item232afe0389 . Simply wire the LED strips to the end with the wire clamping screws and the PS round plug fits the other end.


The rocker switches you linked should work fine, but I wouldn't pick them solely because they come prewired with a 5" pigtail. In fact, I would remove that 5" pigtail if I needed a longer run to eliminate an extra splice. The fewer splices you have, the better. You can use most any cheap rocker, toggle, or push button switch. Just make sure it is rated for at least as many amps as the circuit (most will be, as this particular case isn't a very heavy load).
 
#337 ·
Thank you for all of the great responses. I ordered my frame last night from spolight.

Wade,

Did you decide on your light set up yet. Are you going with the 6 150 LEDs?


Greg,

Where did you get your power supply from? I'm glad this took care of your overheating problem.


I am considering just using three 5m strips.

If I cheat with the light box behind the frame then I should be able to hide the power supply behind it, maybe on top as suggested. My laptop power supply is 1 1/8" by 2".I may want to move the light box, so I don't want to cut the big hole for the in wall box.


Eric
 
#338 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by erichoya  /t/1392444/another-diy-poster-marquee-light-box/330#post_23316990


Did you decide on your light set up yet. Are you going with the 6 150 LEDs?

I'm pretty sure I'll go with 6 of the 5M rolls with 150 LEDs/roll instead of using 3 of the 5M rolls with 300 LEDs/roll. Both options of course have the same 900 total LEDs per light box and thus the same power requirements. But the 6 roll option allows for more uniform distribution of the LEDs, and I'm thinking that will mean I can make the box thinner due to not needing as much distance for the light to diffuse. Since I'll have twice as many strips in the box which makes them much closer together, I'm also going to play with wiring every other strip together on a switch so that I can create a bright and dim option by turning every other strip off. The downside of the 6x 150/roll option is that it is a little more expensive and a little more work. But I like work... I can sit and look at it all day long.



I haven't gotten my diffuser sheets yet and I need them before I can experiment as I'd like to determine how thin I can make the boxes, if the dim option is viable, etc. I was going to get the material that cuzed2 pointed us to, but then got sidetracked by other posts in this thread leading me to consider an edge lit option with this material for a back panel: http://www.lucitelux.com/Lucite-Lux-Product?productID=10 , which led me to consider this alternative diffuser material made by the same company: http://www.lucitelux.com/Lucite-Lux-Product?productID=11 . I received some info from the manufacturer, which is headquartered about an hour or so from me. The bad news is that they won't sell a small quantity directly to individuals. I still need to shop for retail sources and prices. One interesting tidbit is that it comes in sheets measuring 51" x 108". I was expecting it to likely be 4' x 8' (48" x 96"). I think I may make a side lit box in addition to the back lit style and compare them side by side. Some of my boxes will be near wall corners such that traffic will be passing closely by the side of the box, so I want a thin box with a nice side finish.


I certainly understand not wanting to cut holes in the wall large enough for the recessed power outlet boxes I'm using. But in my case I'm planning on being in this house for near forever and always having the HT room where it is now. If the light boxes are not wanted in the future for some reason, the outlets might be able to be covered with plain framed picture/painting or some other wall art. And it's not the end of the world if the boxes need to be removed. A little sheet rock plug, mud, and paint is not a huge or expensive job. I bought a Hollywood Marquee in the "floating frame" style that I plan on recessing into the wall just above one of the light boxes, so I'll have some drywall work in the area to do anyway if we ever decide to sell the house or make major changes.
 
#339 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by wadew59  /t/1392444/another-diy-poster-marquee-light-box/330#post_23317571


I haven't gotten my diffuser sheets yet and I need them before I can experiment as I'd like to determine how thin I can make the boxes, if the dim option is viable, etc. I was going to get the material that cuzed2 pointed us to, but then got sidetracked by other posts in this thread leading me to consider an edge lit option with this material for a back panel: http://www.lucitelux.com/Lucite-Lux-Product?productID=10 , which led me to consider this alternative diffuser material made by the same company: http://www.lucitelux.com/Lucite-Lux-Product?productID=11 . I received some info from the manufacturer, which is headquartered about an hour or so from me. The bad news is that they won't sell a small quantity directly to individuals. I still need to shop for retail sources and prices.
Be sure to check out your local plastics distributors. I called around a couple places locally and was able to source my diffuser sheets for approx. $28 each. One of the places I called mentioned a sheet product that is similar to that Lucite Lux stuff, called Plexiglass ELIT, and it was only a few dollars more than the regular sheets.
 
#341 ·
I am going to Go with the moggie layout so I ordered 3 strips and interconnects so I can make 5 banks of 3, no soldering. What kind of wire should I use to hook everything up. 16 gauge seems to be the right size. Should I

Get some mono price speaker wire. Stranded is fine. I'll probably just use in line crimp connectors or nuts, plenty of electrical tape. Maybe shrink wrap.

I'll probably go with an 8 amp power supply.

If you guys are running power out the bottom then how do you get the cord to your recessed outlet with the box flat on the wall.

Thanks, E
 
#342 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by erichoya  /t/1392444/another-diy-poster-marquee-light-box/330#post_23320599


I am going to Go with the moggie layout so I ordered 3 strips and interconnects so I can make 5 banks of 3, no soldering. What kind of wire should I use to hook everything up. 16 gauge seems to be the right size. Should I

Get some mono price speaker wire. Stranded is fine. I'll probably just use in line crimp connectors or nuts, plenty of electrical tape. Maybe shrink wrap.

I'll probably go with an 8 amp power supply.

If you guys are running power out the bottom then how do you get the cord to your recessed outlet with the box flat on the wall.

Thanks, E

Well, soldering is by far the best way to get a long lasting reliable connection. The other methods you mention will corrode over time. Best solutions are wire nuts and solid wiring, or the crimp type with teeth that bite into the metal.


Again, I can't believe how you folks are choosing power supplies on a hope and prayer. Measure the current draw, or just overkill with the 10A supply.


You don't bring the wire out the bottom. You bring it out the back where the junction box is.
 
#343 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayn_j  /t/1392444/another-diy-poster-marquee-light-box/330#post_23322945


Well, soldering is by far the best way to get a long lasting reliable connection. The other methods you mention will corrode over time. Best solutions are wire nuts and solid wiring, or the crimp type with teeth that bite into the metal.


Again, I can't believe how you folks are choosing power supplies on a hope and prayer. Measure the current draw, or just overkill with the 10A supply.


You don't bring the wire out the bottom. You bring it out the back where the junction box is.

Thanks for the "advice". I'll probably put in a recessed outlet box behind the box, but it does not appear to me the everyone designs their box with room behind the box for the cord. Even with a recessed box you need some room behind the back panel. So I want to see how other people have set this up. Here is an example to illustrate what I am talking about:


Believe that I have read thru this thread, surfed to the end of the web, and calculated out the power requirements. I am seeing maybe 2Amps per strip so to give me a 25% cushion I think 8amps.

E
 
#344 ·
Sorry my advice didn't suit you. Did my best. Best of luck on your project.


if You look at my box back in response 6, you will see that I mounted the backer board behind the 1x2 pine strips. I then notched the board and let the cord hang down. Not a final solution, but it works where I have it currently hanging. The thing is that everyone's installation is a bit different and you need to do what works for you.
 
#345 ·
I have not received my poster frame yet, but wanted to get started. I used DaDeuce's measurements, minus an inch for the 40" frame and built my box a little while ago. I am still deciding what to use for the back. I think I may build a thin 2" deep box around the box to give me the space behind the backer that I want.

I looked for wire at HD, but not sure what to use to connect the 5 banks together and then that connection to my female power plug (I still am need to locate one, maybe radio shack has it). Undecided about the switch, but that could always be added later. My light strips will be here tomorrow.

E
 
#351 ·
My poster frame from spotlight arrived tonight. I did a test fit and my light box was an inch short of the Mounting holes. I was taking a chance just using DaDeuce's measurements and building before the frame arrived. I'll just have to add a top piece to the frame. Problem is there will be a small amount of the top of the box protruding at the top of the poster below the poster frame, maybe 1/2 inch. Well see if I need to file this down or if the diffuser just spreads the light there. Power supply, posters (casino royale and anchorman), wire, and mounting bracket for my switch are en route. I have to buy the diffuser still. Will be pretty busy the next couple of weeks so not sure when I'll have this finished.
 
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