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post #1 of 33 Old 02-05-2015, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Question Long led runs

I have purchased a bunch of 5V LED strips just like these: http://au.alibaba.com/product/146249...c-Digital.html

They have a power consumption of 10 watts per meter (max) using 5V DC.

I am using a single LED controller to control the whole system (with 4 outputs). I am using TWO 350W power supplies.

I have 3 parallel runs of LED strips, connected like this.

POWER SUPPLY 1 = 350 watts at DC5V
- 26 meter run = 260 watts = 52 amps
POWER SUPPLY 2 = 350 watts at DC5V
- 22 meter run = 220 watts = 72 amps (combined with 14 meter run)
- 14 meter run = 140 watts

Run 1 is a 26 meter LED strip PLUS a 10 meter lead jumper wire. So it has a total length of 36 meters
Run 2 is a 22 meter LED strip PLUS a 5 meter lead jumper wire. So it has a total length of 27 meters.
Run 3 is a 14 meter LED strip PLUS 8 meter lead jumper wire. So it has a total length of 22 meters.

Now to my question. As you can see by my attached diagram, I will need to run a parallel POWER line to inject power every 5 or 10 meters (due to voltage drop). What gauge wire do I need for this power line?

Thanks!!
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post #2 of 33 Old 02-08-2015, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt_Sully View Post
I have purchased a bunch of 5V LED strips just like these: http://au.alibaba.com/product/146249...c-Digital.html

They have a power consumption of 10 watts per meter (max) using 5V DC.

I am using a single LED controller to control the whole system (with 4 outputs). I am using TWO 350W power supplies.

I have 3 parallel runs of LED strips, connected like this.

POWER SUPPLY 1 = 350 watts at DC5V
- 26 meter run = 260 watts = 52 amps
POWER SUPPLY 2 = 350 watts at DC5V
- 22 meter run = 220 watts = 72 amps (combined with 14 meter run)
- 14 meter run = 140 watts

Run 1 is a 26 meter LED strip PLUS a 10 meter lead jumper wire. So it has a total length of 36 meters
Run 2 is a 22 meter LED strip PLUS a 5 meter lead jumper wire. So it has a total length of 27 meters.
Run 3 is a 14 meter LED strip PLUS 8 meter lead jumper wire. So it has a total length of 22 meters.

Now to my question. As you can see by my attached diagram, I will need to run a parallel POWER line to inject power every 5 or 10 meters (due to voltage drop). What gauge wire do I need for this power line?

Thanks!!
You should be find with 18/2 (18 gauge thermostat) wire. I used it for my LED light box project run from one AC to DC 150 watt driver. I did do home runs of it. The longest run was probably about 30 feet. You can go longer distances than 30 feet.

Something like this is fairly inexpensive for 500'
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell...guMaAmaJ8P8HAQ


Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 33 Old 02-09-2015, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rarieta View Post
You should be find with 18/2 (18 gauge thermostat) wire. I used it for my LED light box project run from one AC to DC 150 watt driver. I did do home runs of it. The longest run was probably about 30 feet. You can go longer distances than 30 feet.

Something like this is fairly inexpensive for 500'
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell...guMaAmaJ8P8HAQ


Hope this helps.
Thank you! I just hope the voltage, on my parallel supply line, does not drop too low over the 100'+ run.

Otherwise...it's all for not.

Per my calculations, I would need a 1 AWG wire. I was hoping that my calculations were wrong...which is what prompted my post above.
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post #4 of 33 Old 02-09-2015, 09:16 PM
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I'm not sure if there are any differences between the lights you linked to and these:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=381047252483

But I've regularly used Cat5 cable without the ethernet connectors on the end to power the above LEDs. Cat5 cable is kinda thick, but the wires inside are rather thin, and you can get 1000 foot roll of Cat5 for about $30 on eBay.

Of course others may know better than me about what to use, but I haven't had any issues so far.
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post #5 of 33 Old 02-10-2015, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
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How long did you make your CAT5 (power) runs?

If I'm reading the specifications correctly, my LED strip requires twice the amperage/wattage.

I'm thinking about going with the thermostat 18/2 wire.

Thanks so much for the suggestion. I have some CAT5/6 cable....I will definitely try that first.

Sully
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post #6 of 33 Old 02-10-2015, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt_Sully View Post
How long did you make your CAT5 (power) runs?

If I'm reading the specifications correctly, my LED strip requires twice the amperage/wattage.

I'm thinking about going with the thermostat 18/2 wire.

Thanks so much for the suggestion. I have some CAT5/6 cable....I will definitely try that first.

Sully
I've run roughly 30' of cat5 between the power supply to where the LEDs start with no noticeable loss of light. I've also run +100' spans to power security cameras and handle the video with no issues (12v 2a cameras). Cameras aren't quite the same thing, but it shows that cat5 can carry 12v power over that distance.

I'm no expert with these, most of what I know has been learned through hands-on experience, but looking at your diagram I think you may have added extra un-needed wiring. It looks like you have a +/- lead attached at each end of your strips, I don't think that's really necessary. Most of these "cut to length" LED strips work the same way, a single +/- at the beginning of each strip should be enough to power each length.

Depending on how you wire them can effect power loss though. If you can make sense of my crude diagram, B & C will give you even light/power distribution, but for some reason figure A will give you a significant loss of light on the second set of LEDs even though they're all powering the same 5m roll.

This has been my experience working with the 3528's in various applications. I don't mean to over-step my bounds, you may very well be more versed in working with these than I am, I just thought I'd offer whatever knowledge I could in case you needed it.... hell I could be reading your diagram wrong anyway (my phone probably isn't the best thing to try and read it on lol).



Cheers, hope I was of some help.
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post #7 of 33 Old 02-11-2015, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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My runs are very long...ranging from 70 to 115 feet. The LED strip that I bought comes in 5 meter lengths. I attempted to solder/connect TWO strips together which created a 10 meter length. The attached picture shows the voltage drop (difference between beginning of strip and end of 10 meters.

The drawing that I orignially attached was provided to me by the factory (who designed/built my LED strips).

The only part they didnt tell me (and wont tell me) is what gauge wire to use.

Looking at their drawing (and the Y-connectors), I think the idea is to attempt to provide a perfect 5V to the entire LED length....by injecting it at the beginning and end of every strip.
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post #8 of 33 Old 02-11-2015, 03:32 PM
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I've ran into the same power drop when butting 2 rolls together. I didn't realize your LED spans were going to that long, that's probably a good solution to that problem then. Mine was a little different, but I don't want to detract from the point of your thread any more than I already have.

In addition to cat5 cable, i've also just went to the car stereo/electronics section at Walmart and used the smallest gage speaker wire they had and it has worked out fine.

A good way to test to see if you'll have any noticeable power loss would be to buy a 100' roll of speaker wire. You should be able to access each end of the wire without un-spooling it, hook it up and see if there's any loss traveling the whole 100' of wire. I'm not sure where your located, but a 100' spool only costs like $10-12 at my local walmart. If it works then you can get a larger spool from Parts Express, eBay, Amazon etc.

I replaced all the ambient/wash lighting in my club with the 3528s using a mix of cat5 & speaker wire and have not had any problems over the year or so since I've done it.

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post #9 of 33 Old 02-12-2015, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt_Sully View Post
My runs are very long...ranging from 70 to 115 feet. The LED strip that I bought comes in 5 meter lengths. I attempted to solder/connect TWO strips together which created a 10 meter length. The attached picture shows the voltage drop (difference between beginning of strip and end of 10 meters.

The drawing that I orignially attached was provided to me by the factory (who designed/built my LED strips).

The only part they didnt tell me (and wont tell me) is what gauge wire to use.

Looking at their drawing (and the Y-connectors), I think the idea is to attempt to provide a perfect 5V to the entire LED length....by injecting it at the beginning and end of every strip.
Gotta ask why you used 5 volt strips for runs that long. Especially since voltage drop is exponential (P=E^2/R).

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post #10 of 33 Old 02-12-2015, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post
Gotta ask why you used 5 volt strips for runs that long. Especially since voltage drop is exponential (P=E^2/R).
I was "told" by the factory reps, that I "should" go with 5V with 1 IC per LED to avoid the need for external power lines and amps. They told me that this specific strip could easily be powered by these power supplies with one connection at the very beginning of the run.

In fact...I told them that I did NOT want to run external power supply wires, or install inlined LED power amps.

They then suggested this strip to avoid that.

THEY WERE WRONG...and FULL OF CRAP!

Unfortunately, I purchased directly from china and cant exactly take them back.
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post #11 of 33 Old 06-12-2015, 11:29 AM
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My question is about injecting power along a long run.
Am I correct in this setup? Bought my stuff at superbrightleds.com ...product names in the diagram.

I'm doing 108' around my pool. Each section is (2) 2M lengths or smaller all connected together with the rgb wires to keep signal throughout from the controller. My 350W power supply will make home runs to each section. What gauge wire? Lengths are also in the diagram.
I do have the option of running wire from breaker to a new panel next to the pool to shorten the initial run.

If this doesn't make sense it's because I'm juggling everything else that is wrong with the pool. It's a gunite to vinyl conversion with a boatload of issues. The lighting conduits were just deemed unusable so running led's across the perimeter sounded like the best solution. Now that I'm in the weeds, I'm freaking out a bit.

Help if you can.
thanks in advance everyone...
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post #12 of 33 Old 06-12-2015, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stephane111 View Post
What gauge wire?
How much current does each 2M section use?
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post #13 of 33 Old 06-12-2015, 01:37 PM
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How much current does each 2M section use?
Thanks for jumping in!

2060mA (2.060A) full white per 5M

I have a 350W MeanWell power supply and I'm using this controller which superbrightled.com said would work:
superbrightleds dotcom/moreinfo/controllers/ldrf-rgb6-tc4-rgb-smartphone-or-tablet-wifi-compatible-controller-w-rf-touch-color-remote/1445/3368/?accessory_of=1472-controllers
Says it can handle 6 Amps/CH.

These are the strips:
superbrightleds dotcom/moreinfo/rgb-bars-and-strips/outdoor-led-light-strips-with-multi-color-leds-weatherproof-led-tape-light-with-9-smdsft-3-chip-rgb-smd-led-5050/1472/
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post #14 of 33 Old 06-12-2015, 01:51 PM
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A 4 conductor 18ga wire for the branches should be adequate. You could use 5 conductor if you wanted extra margin. Use two 18ga wires in parallel for the +12V. For the main trunk I'd want something heavier since it has to carry more current a longer distance (50'). Maybe 14ga...

Make sure you use wire rated for outdoor / burial / UV exposure since it sounds like you won't be using the conduit.
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post #15 of 33 Old 06-12-2015, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
A 4 conductor 18ga wire for the branches should be adequate. You could use 5 conductor if you wanted extra margin. Use two 18ga wires in parallel for the +12V. For the main trunk I'd want something heavier since it has to carry more current a longer distance (50'). Maybe 14ga...

Make sure you use wire rated for outdoor / burial / UV exposure since it sounds like you won't be using the conduit.
Thanks.
Yup- direct burial. Already had 100' of 14/2 direct burial laying around so thats good news.

second option i have is to move the controllers and power supply closer to the pool in a weatherproof box in a gazebo 20 ft away. I'll run 10AWG to a new junction in the gazebo and hardwire the power supply to it via a switch. Then my longest run is simply the spa. And I won't have to notch out my concrete deck as there is a planting bed whee i can bury the wire and come in straight to the coping and start the runs.

Either way... The only thing i'm questioning is can i (should i) run all the non power (rgb) wires in series and then bring in power to each section as needed direct from the 350W source into the v+ in the strip? ...or simply 4 conductor each section to the controller? I'd have to hunt down 4 conductor direct burial if that exists. I was going to solder and waterproof all my section connections and run the injected power in through notches in the pool coping I'll make and re-mortar.
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post #16 of 33 Old 06-12-2015, 06:17 PM
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Without seeing photos or a very detailed layout drawing it's hard to say whether it's better to run them all in series or not. It doesn't really matter electrically. Keep in mind even with your split layout you can connect power to the middle of the two 2m segments and don't have to do it from an end.
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post #17 of 33 Old 06-12-2015, 07:16 PM
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I'm going to do a dry run tomorrow in my basement. My goal is to have one big loop of the rgb wires (pool is 108' circumference) essentially dual feeding the rgb. Then run and inject power where needed with direct burial 14 or 16 gauge.
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post #18 of 33 Old 11-21-2015, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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So I opted to go with 14/2 for my parallel 5VDC power run....and I'm reinjecting power every 5 meters (roughly 15 feet).

However....I ran into a snag last night (at 3am). As you can see by my attached picture, all of a sudden, my LED strip light stops. I'm at approximately 35 feet of LED strip (plus a 35 foot lead jumper wire). This is not where I made a connection either...it is a factory connection (about 10 feet into a 15 foot strip).

My DC power supply is putting out 5.25 volts. Measuring on my supply parallel run at the distant end, I'm seeing 4.55 volts during red blue green colors and during the other colors it drops to 4.25 volts. I'd like to increase the output voltage on my power supply, but I dont know how. There isnt anything noticeable on the outside.

I'm not sure what my tolerance is on the LED strip (LPD6803 Dream Color 10mm wide 30 LEDs and 30 ICs per meter).

Do you think this is a voltage drop issue?

One more CLUE: When you first hit the power switch to turn this all on....every single LED lights up bright white until the controller syncs up (including this section). As soon as the controller syncs up, this part of the LED strip goes off.
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post #19 of 33 Old 11-21-2015, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt_Sully View Post
So I opted to go with 14/2 for my parallel 5VDC power run....and I'm reinjecting power every 5 meters (roughly 15 feet).

However....I ran into a snag last night (at 3am). As you can see by my attached picture, all of a sudden, my LED strip light stops. I'm at approximately 35 feet of LED strip (plus a 35 foot lead jumper wire). This is not where I made a connection either...it is a factory connection (about 10 feet into a 15 foot strip).

My DC power supply is putting out 5.25 volts. Measuring on my supply parallel run at the distant end, I'm seeing 4.55 volts during red blue green colors and during the other colors it drops to 4.25 volts. I'd like to increase the output voltage on my power supply, but I dont know how. There isnt anything noticeable on the outside.

I'm not sure what my tolerance is on the LED strip (LPD6803 Dream Color 10mm wide 30 LEDs and 30 ICs per meter).

Do you think this is a voltage drop issue?

One more CLUE: When you first hit the power switch to turn this all on....every single LED lights up bright white until the controller syncs up (including this section). As soon as the controller syncs up, this part of the LED strip goes off.
So I just hooked up a 6' long 14 gauge power line directly to this strip. It did not solve the problem. so this is not a VOLTAGE thing.

So that leaves two possibilities:

1. Defective LED strip. Would have to connect directly to start of a new run to rule out. If this is the only strip on a 6 foot lead line, and the problem persists, then it is defective.

2. The data/clk signal is too weak at this distance?


Thoughts?
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post #20 of 33 Old 11-21-2015, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I tried POSSIBILITY 1 above and connected the "suspected defective" LED strip to at the beginning of my run and it worked just fine. That means the LED strip is NOT bad.

I also wired up a brand new LED strip and connected it at the end of my LED run (beginning of this run is at 25' and it stretches over to 40'). However...this brand new strip has the exact same symptom. It just stops. It is as-if I have hit a maximum LED limit? By my guesstimation, I'm only at 300 LEDs so far.
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post #21 of 33 Old 11-28-2015, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
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I figured this out. The LED program provided by the factory, and stored on my chip, was only programmed for 300 LEDs. I quickly learned how to use LEDEDIT and programmed in 1024 LEDs to see if that would fix my problem.

It did....I'm off and running again.

Thanks for the help everyone! Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Sully
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post #22 of 33 Old 12-09-2015, 06:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt_Sully View Post
I figured this out. The LED program provided by the factory, and stored on my chip, was only programmed for 300 LEDs. I quickly learned how to use LEDEDIT and programmed in 1024 LEDs to see if that would fix my problem.

It did....I'm off and running again.

Thanks for the help everyone! Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Sully
I'm about to throw in the towel!! I am TRYING to put together/install my house LED lighting (outline of the roofline). I have 3 total runs. One is 77 feet plus 30 feet of lead wire from power supply/controller. Second is 75 feet plus 20 feet of lead wire. Third is 30 feet plus 15 feet of lead wire. I’m also running a parallel power injection wire along the whole length. It is ONE PAIR from the power supply to the end…which I tap into every 5meters to re-inject power. The wire is 14 gauge. My LED strip is 5050RGB/LPD6803/5VDC/IP68. Power supplies are 5-6VDC 350w. Not sure it matters…but my controller is a T-4000.

Needless to say...I am getting voltage drop. My power supply is set at its max 6VDC. At the end of the run, I'm down to 4.3VDC on my FIRST RUN—which is okay. My 2nd run...not so good. At 30 feet I’m at 5V, but at 45 feet, I'm already down to 3.2V. Something is causing a large voltage drop in that 15 feet. I also have ONE defective LED in that segment that only goes RED/OFF while the others are cycling through all the colors. Maybe it is shorting out some power?

Per the LPD6803 specs, they can accept up to 8VDC and still put out 5VDC. I'm thinking of buying new power supplies to pump out more VDC to counter the voltage drop.

Do you have any suggestions before I throw away $1000+ of supplies and 75+ manhours??

Thanks!
Sully
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post #23 of 33 Old 12-09-2015, 06:31 AM
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When I did under cabinet lighting in my kitchen, I ran 14G 2 conductor wire to a switch and two outlets. The switch powers the outlets and I plugged in two different sets of LEDs into the outlets. The outlets are located in the cabinets and are not visible and it works great.
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post #24 of 33 Old 12-21-2015, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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MAKING PROGRESS...I did end up cranking up my power supplies to 8V.

I have RUN #'s 2 and 3 installed on the outside of my house. Power/data wires all run, controllers installed. RUn #'s 2 and 3 are fully functional. Need to find time to install #1 .

I have installed my LPD6803 pixel strips on the outline of my house. These are 5V "dream color" IP67 strips. I have 3 separate runs that feed into a single T-4000 controller currently.

The 3 runs are:
RUN 1 = 680 LEDs, = 2040 channels
RUN 2 = 370 LEDs, = 1110 channels
RUN 3 = 650 LEDs, = 1950 channels
for a total of 1700 LEDs.

This system works. However...I want to use a MUSIC controller...without the need to modify wiring. Something that could produce a cool light show, synced to music.

Can you please tell me what products I can buy from you to make this happen?
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post #25 of 33 Old 09-26-2017, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt_Sully View Post
MAKING PROGRESS...I did end up cranking up my power supplies to 8V.

I have RUN #'s 2 and 3 installed on the outside of my house. Power/data wires all run, controllers installed. RUn #'s 2 and 3 are fully functional. Need to find time to install #1 .

I have installed my LPD6803 pixel strips on the outline of my house. These are 5V "dream color" IP67 strips. I have 3 separate runs that feed into a single T-4000 controller currently.

The 3 runs are:
RUN 1 = 680 LEDs, = 2040 channels
RUN 2 = 370 LEDs, = 1110 channels
RUN 3 = 650 LEDs, = 1950 channels
for a total of 1700 LEDs.

This system works. However...I want to use a MUSIC controller...without the need to modify wiring. Something that could produce a cool light show, synced to music.

Can you please tell me what products I can buy from you to make this happen?

I know this is an old thread but I'm trying to figure out what size wire I need.

I'm doing a couple different LED runs.

I'd LIKE to use RGBW lights, but i think I need 24V for the distances and only usually find those in RGB. (PLus from my reading, the W channel on the RGBW strips actually pulls 3x the amp draw as the R or B or G channel, and becomes a limiting factor for controllers with a limited amp draw).


Anyhow, thats sort of one question if anyone has input.
The MAIN question is, when I'm trying to position the transformer, is it better to put the controller near the lights and the transformer far away (such that only the 2 wire power to the controller needs to be a large ga) or put the controller near the transformer and run all of the 4/5 wire in a large ga?

The layouts even in this thread show many runs of 5 wire at 30-60 ft and every seems to say its ok to run small ga thermostat wire. However, when you look at voltage drop calcs, it says it wont work. I'm confused and I really need to get this figured out so I can buy the lighting kits and pieces I need ASAP.

Thanks for any help.
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post #26 of 33 Old 09-27-2017, 06:42 AM
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I know this is an old thread but I'm trying to figure out what size wire I need.

I'm doing a couple different LED runs.

I'd LIKE to use RGBW lights, but i think I need 24V for the distances and only usually find those in RGB. (PLus from my reading, the W channel on the RGBW strips actually pulls 3x the amp draw as the R or B or G channel, and becomes a limiting factor for controllers with a limited amp draw).


Anyhow, thats sort of one question if anyone has input.
The MAIN question is, when I'm trying to position the transformer, is it better to put the controller near the lights and the transformer far away (such that only the 2 wire power to the controller needs to be a large ga) or put the controller near the transformer and run all of the 4/5 wire in a large ga?

The layouts even in this thread show many runs of 5 wire at 30-60 ft and every seems to say its ok to run small ga thermostat wire. However, when you look at voltage drop calcs, it says it wont work. I'm confused and I really need to get this figured out so I can buy the lighting kits and pieces I need ASAP.

Thanks for any help.
How long are the runs, and what distance between the power supply and the start of each run?

Voltage drop over 18 gauge wire should be pretty minimal as long as there are minimal connection points or other things to create resistance. But if you did run into a visible light level drop, you could always insert an in-line amplifier. Personally, if it's a long run before the lights even start, I like to have the controller near the power source.

Remember, no matter where you go... You're not where you were anymore.
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post #27 of 33 Old 09-28-2017, 06:27 AM
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How long are the runs, and what distance between the power supply and the start of each run?

Voltage drop over 18 gauge wire should be pretty minimal as long as there are minimal connection points or other things to create resistance. But if you did run into a visible light level drop, you could always insert an in-line amplifier. Personally, if it's a long run before the lights even start, I like to have the controller near the power source.
Thanks for your feedback.

I keep reading about the voltage drops through either 12v or 24v lighting and for 12 the needed gauge is ridiculous and for 24v its around 10-12 gauge in some cases. I cannot find thermostat wire in 12 or even 14 gauge.

Can you please take a look at these attached PDFs of what I'm trying to do? I've added plan views and wiring schematics here to make my goals hopefully clear.
I really need to get these components on order becasue I need to get this stuff wired into the riser before i do the plywood on top.

Thank you so much for your assistance.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf column lighting (plan view) 2.pdf (16.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: pdf column lighting (section view).pdf (12.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: pdf column lighting SCHEMATIC.pdf (44.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: pdf cove lighting (plan view).pdf (15.5 KB, 3 views)
File Type: pdf cove lighting SCHEMATIC.pdf (24.7 KB, 0 views)
File Type: pdf riser lighting (plan view).pdf (16.6 KB, 2 views)
File Type: pdf riser lighting SCHEMATIC.pdf (22.5 KB, 0 views)
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Thanks for your feedback.

I keep reading about the voltage drops through either 12v or 24v lighting and for 12 the needed gauge is ridiculous and for 24v its around 10-12 gauge in some cases. I cannot find thermostat wire in 12 or even 14 gauge.

Can you please take a look at these attached PDFs of what I'm trying to do? I've added plan views and wiring schematics here to make my goals hopefully clear.
I really need to get these components on order becasue I need to get this stuff wired into the riser before i do the plywood on top.

Thank you so much for your assistance.
For the soffit run, which if I'm reading right (and I'm still groggy, so that's no guarantee) is going to be around 60 linear feet of lighting. Using the strips I went with as a guide (Supernight 24v RGB 10m reels), they hit at 144 watts per 10 meters. You'd be looking just shy of 20 meters, so assume 288 watt load. I'd suggest a power supply with enough overhead to prevent the fan from coming on, or find a really quiet supply (can get pricey). Fanless at that power would get pretty hot, I'd be wary of having that in a soffit. With that approach, you'd have 2 10 meter strips that would both connect to the power supply and contoller, meaning each run is only 10 meters, so you shouldn't see any light drops. I'd suggest a 350 watt supply. I went with this 360 watt model https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which works well. Unless I crank the lights (my normal programmed level is about 15% bright), the fan never comes on.

The columns are a bit trickier as your total light distance is getting up there. I'm not sure you'd be able to use the same controller that would be running the soffit lights or need a second one. Using a second Fibaro, you could power it with a small supply, run 18 or 22 gauge wire to the columns and put in-line amplifiers to power each column. The challenge there is getting juice to all 7 columns from two outlets, or running a lot of romex around the soffit. Still, that approach would give you a single controller for all 7 columns. Alternatively, you could get a beefy power supply, and run a single thicker gauge power wire around the room. In other words, one small power supply to power the Fibaro and send the control signals around the room, then a second heavy duty supply to send a 24v wire around the room to each column. Then at the column head, you attach the control wires from the Fibaro and the Power wire from the big source. I'll have to defer to others on here to the code/safety aspects of that. You'd use something like this to run the control signals: https://www.amazon.com/accexpert%C2%...s=rgb+led+wire then a higher gauge from the big supply. Since it's only one wire, just buy a reel of whatever gauge you want to go with.

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For the soffit run, which if I'm reading right (and I'm still groggy, so that's no guarantee) is going to be around 60 linear feet of lighting. Using the strips I went with as a guide (Supernight 24v RGB 10m reels), they hit at 144 watts per 10 meters. You'd be looking just shy of 20 meters, so assume 288 watt load. I'd suggest a power supply with enough overhead to prevent the fan from coming on, or find a really quiet supply (can get pricey). Fanless at that power would get pretty hot, I'd be wary of having that in a soffit. With that approach, you'd have 2 10 meter strips that would both connect to the power supply and contoller, meaning each run is only 10 meters, so you shouldn't see any light drops. I'd suggest a 350 watt supply. I went with this 360 watt model https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which works well. Unless I crank the lights (my normal programmed level is about 15% bright), the fan never comes on.

The columns are a bit trickier as your total light distance is getting up there. I'm not sure you'd be able to use the same controller that would be running the soffit lights or need a second one. Using a second Fibaro, you could power it with a small supply, run 18 or 22 gauge wire to the columns and put in-line amplifiers to power each column. The challenge there is getting juice to all 7 columns from two outlets, or running a lot of romex around the soffit. Still, that approach would give you a single controller for all 7 columns. Alternatively, you could get a beefy power supply, and run a single thicker gauge power wire around the room. In other words, one small power supply to power the Fibaro and send the control signals around the room, then a second heavy duty supply to send a 24v wire around the room to each column. Then at the column head, you attach the control wires from the Fibaro and the Power wire from the big source. I'll have to defer to others on here to the code/safety aspects of that. You'd use something like this to run the control signals: https://www.amazon.com/accexpert%C2%...s=rgb+led+wire then a higher gauge from the big supply. Since it's only one wire, just buy a reel of whatever gauge you want to go with.
Ok, I'm trying to digest this and hopefully clear some confusion.

First. I found these on Amazon that seem to match your description.
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Flexi...rbrite+24v+10m

Not sure what watts total these are.

The power supply you listed looks good.

As for the Fibaro, I'm proposing 1 for the risers, 1 for the cove, and 1 or 2 for the columns.
The Fibaro only handles up to 6 amps per channel, for a total of 12 amps max, so with RGB, essentially 4 amps per COLOR is the MAX.

At 288 watts, at 24V that is exactly 12 AMPS, so a Fibaro is maxed out in the cove. A Fibaro is not fully loaded in the riser at all as thats like 25 feet of lights.

For the Columns, yea, its like 100ft of lights, so I think it would have to be 150 chip per strip LEDs, or using the same ones you described, I'd have to use 2 Fibaros synced through Smart things.

I'm not following your comment about 7 columns on 2 outlets. Let's isolate the columns as 1 system, separate from anything else. Let's say I have a huge powersupply to handle it, I would not put any transformer inside the soffit. In the plans I shared, it would either go inside the floor riser, and run wire up a column to reach the soffit, inside the AC closet on the wall, or behind the false screen wall on a shelf which is still easy access. Inside the riser is the most closed off space with no air circulation and that would still be about 60 cuft of space. 6'x10'x12"

So to your 7 columns on 2 outlets, if my trans is plugged into 1 outlet, and its a BIG transformer, that has nothing to do with 2 outlets. Not following.

I am definitely not following your wiring recommendation for the columns around the room.

I understand you're saying 1 small PWS for the fibaro and one big one for the others. I don't follow the point of that.

Where you said send a 24V wire around the room. Do you mean a large gauge black and red wire from the PWS around the room where you would splice in Amplifiers? Or do you mean a 4 color wire set?

You said, at the column head you attach the 4 control wires, and the big wire. If there's just strip lights there at the column, what are you connecting all those to? (Unless you mean there's an amplifer at each column that can accept hot power and control wire???

As for large (big) wire, I have a 100ft of 12 ga speaker wire, as well as I have probably another 60 ft of 14 ga romex.

It seems if you look at some of my diagrams above, I'd need large ga 4 color wire to avoid voltage drop. I looked at the wire you liked to on amazon, and it says its listed as 22ga, but reviews say its 26.

AHHH!!! Mind blown
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post #30 of 33 Old 09-28-2017, 09:13 AM
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Ok, soffit first. That strip you linked is warm white only. Since the soffit is pretty close, here's my setup:

Lights: 2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and Fibaro of course: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then various connectors, right angle connectors for corners, etc... For the setup, I have my power supply in the soffit. The Fibaro connected to it on the 24v input, then a red, green, and blue wire out of it that is connected to both strips. Then the 24v lead from the strips is connected directly to the power supply. The power doesn't pass through the Fibaro, it just gets its own power and sends out the signal levels for the 3 colors. In my case, this is in one corner of the room, so one strip fed each direction and they meet up at the opposite corner.


Now, for the columns, what I was talking about was the idea of putting the real power at the start of each column. So you'd have the Fibaro wherever you need it, running the RBG wires to the top of each column. Then, before it connects to the strip in a given column, you'd put an inline amplifier (i.e. a baby power supply). It would get the power either from an outlet, or a 24v loop around the soffit, then be combined with the 3 signal wires from the fibaro. In other words, the Fibaro and the actual light strips would not be using the same power supply. I wish I could draw up a sketch for you, but I suck at that, and I'm buried at work right now, only had a couple minutes to breathe. Using an inline amplifier means having to power each one, but takes away the worry of voltage drop.
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