Bass Shakers - Page 37 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-11-2009, 12:26 AM
Member
 
fuj32's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Saint Louis, MO
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 16
When using the bass shakers, has anyone used the phone input on the shaker receiver. It does make it much more sensitive. I tried this as I have heard others have too. Is this safe? Also, when not using phono, I have to have my secondary amp turned up half way. Is this okay. Is it okay to turn this shaker amp up more than half way???

What does anyone think?

Receiver - Denon x4000 // LCR - DIYSG Tempest Fusion 12s // Surrounds - DIYSG Vibe 6 // Subs - Cinema F-20 (2) w/ iNUKE3000dsp // Screen - 130in 16:9 Spandex // Projector - BenQ w1080st // Bluray - Oppo BDP103 // Bass Shakers (4)
fuj32 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-19-2009, 05:48 AM
Member
 
kcalvano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Antonio, Tx
Posts: 114
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just placed my order for a couple of the pros. I am pretty excited to see what these do for movie enjoyment. I also ordered a Denon DRA 37 http://www.usa.denon.com/ProductDetails/3389.asp for a great price. I figured since it will handle a 4 ohm load, it would be perfect for this application. Great thread and info, thanks.
kcalvano is offline  
Old 06-20-2009, 02:35 PM
Senior Member
 
milesed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 207
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I used a pair of these mounted to peices of 2x4 which are mounted under my Flexsteel loveseat. I have them connected to a subwoofer amp wwhich is connected to the sub-out on my Denon receiver using a Y adapter. I learned how to wire them up by a thread here back in 2002. They work so well that I can turn off the subwoofer when my 2 little boys are in bed.
milesed is offline  
Old 06-24-2009, 06:57 PM
Member
 
kcalvano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Antonio, Tx
Posts: 114
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Wow, I can't believe that I have gone this long without trying these. I just finished my installation and I have to say they are fantastic...adds another dimension to movie viewing. I have a feeling that I am going to become spoiled from these! Best bang-or should I say shake- for the buck upgrade I've done in a while, highly recommended!
kcalvano is offline  
Old 07-03-2009, 03:29 PM
Senior Member
 
loma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I have two rows of 4 chairs each and would like to connect 1 shaker to each chair. That is 4 shakers in each row. Can I connect 4 in series for each row with one row to the left speaker on the amp and the other row to the right? The amp is rated at 100 watts per channel @ 8 ohms. Thanks for your help.
loma is offline  
Old 07-03-2009, 03:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by loma View Post

I have two rows of 4 chairs each and would like to connect 1 shaker to each chair. That is 4 shakers in each row. Can I connect 4 in series for each row with one row to the left speaker on the amp and the other row to the right? The amp is rated at 100 watts per channel @ 8 ohms. Thanks for your help.

4 in series would be a 16 ohm load. Your amplifier would output approx. 50 watts per channel into a 16 ohm load.

Each shaker would then get roughly 12.5 watts. Certainly they will not be overpowered, and it is likely they will shake plenty enough.

I'd say give it a try.

If you amplifier can handle a 4 ohm load on each channel you could wire the shakers in series-parallel for a 4 ohm load to each channel. The amplifier would then be able to output a lot more power, somewhere between 150 and 200 watts per channel, but run much hotter.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
Old 07-03-2009, 04:14 PM
Senior Member
 
loma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. L. View Post

4 in series would be a 16 ohm load. Your amplifier would output approx. 50 watts per channel into a 16 ohm load.

Each shaker would then get roughly 12.5 watts. Certainly they will not be overpowered, and it is likely they will shake plenty enough.

I'd say give it a try.

If you amplifier can handle a 4 ohm load on each channel you could wire the shakers in series-parallel for a 4 ohm load to each channel. The amplifier would then be able to output a lot more power, somewhere between 150 and 200 watts per channel, but run much hotter.

Joe L.

Thanks JL. Will give it a try.
loma is offline  
Old 07-03-2009, 07:44 PM
Senior Member
 
loma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I have connected and it seems ok so far. Will fully test tomorrow. However I note that some have connected their powered sub to the shaker receiver by way of splitters. Does this enhance the sound? What's the purpose of this connection? Thanks for your response.
loma is offline  
Old 07-05-2009, 08:20 PM
Senior Member
 
loma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. L. View Post

4 in series would be a 16 ohm load. Your amplifier would output approx. 50 watts per channel into a 16 ohm load.

Each shaker would then get roughly 12.5 watts. Certainly they will not be overpowered, and it is likely they will shake plenty enough.

I'd say give it a try.

If you amplifier can handle a 4 ohm load on each channel you could wire the shakers in series-parallel for a 4 ohm load to each channel. The amplifier would then be able to output a lot more power, somewhere between 150 and 200 watts per channel, but run much hotter.

Joe L.

I would like to try another configuration as in the attached. Would this work?
LL
loma is offline  
Old 07-06-2009, 07:59 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by loma View Post

I would like to try another configuration as in the attached. Would this work?

The series parallel combination you 've drawn would be an 8 ohm load for a single channel of an amplifier. It could not be split across the left and right channels of most amplifiers. It could be done if the amplifier was of the type that allowed bridging of the two channels to make a higher powered single channel. (Many "pro" amplifiers allow this, no consumer amplifiers in old receivers will work)

The problem is that both channels are in phase in most receivers... When fed an identical signal from a splitter, when the output voltage on the left channel goes positive, the right channel does exactly the same. If you were to measure the potential between the left and right channel you would measure no difference at all. If no voltage difference, no output to the shakers. To work as a "bridged" amplifier, one of the inputs to the two channels must be 180 degrees out of phase. Then, when one output is going positive, the other channel is going negative, thus doubling the output voltage available, resulting in increased output. Problem is, most amplifiers are not made to be bridged, and most do not contain the extra inverter stage.

Instead of using two channels, you could use just one channel of your stereo amplifier, leaving the other unconnected. The 100 watts from the one channel would be evenly split among the 8 shakers, resulting in about 12.5 watts per shaker.

Interesting on how physics works... same power as before. Only now, the one set of drivers in the amplifier are doing all the work, and the other are doing nothing. If it was me, I'd rather they all share the work, and not have to work as hard. Back to your original configuration..., 4 in series connected to each channel, for a 16 ohm load on each channel.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
Old 07-06-2009, 08:32 AM
Senior Member
 
loma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. L. View Post

The series parallel combination you 've drawn would be an 8 ohm load for a single channel of an amplifier. It could not be split across the left and right channels of most amplifiers. It could be done if the amplifier was of the type that allowed bridging of the two channels to make a higher powered single channel. (Many "pro" amplifiers allow this, no consumer amplifiers in old receivers will work)

The problem is that both channels are in phase in most receivers... When fed an identical signal from a splitter, when the output voltage on the left channel goes positive, the right channel does exactly the same. If you were to measure the potential between the left and right channel you would measure no difference at all. If no voltage difference, no output to the shakers. To work as a "bridged" amplifier, one of the inputs to the two channels must be 180 degrees out of phase. Then, when one output is going positive, the other channel is going negative, thus doubling the output voltage available, resulting in increased output. Problem is, most amplifiers are not made to be bridged, and most do not contain the extra inverter stage.

Instead of using two channels, you could use just one channel of your stereo amplifier, leaving the other unconnected. The 100 watts from the one channel would be evenly split among the 8 shakers, resulting in about 12.5 watts per shaker.

Interesting on how physics works... same power as before. Only now, the one set of drivers in the amplifier are doing all the work, and the other are doing nothing. If it was me, I'd rather they all share the work, and not have to work as hard. Back to your original configuration..., 4 in series connected to each channel, for a 16 ohm load on each channel.

Joe L.

Thanks J.L Really appreciate your help. I Guess that's it unless I get a bigger amp.
loma is offline  
Old 07-28-2009, 08:19 AM
Senior Member
 
fabulousfrankie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Springfield, VA
Posts: 367
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I searched this thread for "second zone" + "2nd zone" and saw nobody using my idea below to run shakers and 5 speakers from the same receiver. I'm going to do this for my brother's theater to save some money.

Here's what to do:

- Split the sub out as you normally would to connect to external amp.

- With the connection that would normally go to an external shaker amp, split again with a 1 male to 2 male splitter(I'll use RCA barrel connectors to get this).

- Connect those 2 male connections to any unused L+R RCA input(AUX, CD, TAPE, etc...) on your receiver.

- Set your 2nd zone input to the connection you used

- Hook your shakers to your 6th and 7th speaker outputs that will now play whatever is coming from you subwoofer preout.

- Use your 2nd zone volume control to match the levels of the shakers to your system


Now when you adjust your master volume it control the shakers ouput as well and they're crossed over at the same point as your sub(although lower would be preferable).

This will only work if you have a 7.1 multizone receiver in which you are only using 5 speakers. If this has already been covered I apologize, I just wanted to pass along my idea.
fabulousfrankie is offline  
Old 07-30-2009, 12:14 AM
AVS Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 4,583
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 996 Post(s)
Liked: 1364
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Hey guys,

Great forum, great thread and great input from everyone. I took my time and I've read all 37 pages of this thread and I believe I finally have a question that someone has yet to ask!!!

Has anyone attempted to attach a separate Receiver to a Bose Lifestyle system?

I've yet to make the purchase for the Bose Lifestyle V30 system but I have downloaded the user manual and I cannot find ANYTHING in the manual indicating a LFE? Don't get me wrong, I know there is a SUB output for the Acoustimass Subwoofer but it does not look like it is a RCA output? I can't tell from the actual user manual but the hook up from the Subwoofer to the Bose receiver appears to be one of those special "Bose" only adapters? Or am I mistaken?

I like the Bose system because it provides big sound yet it is so compact and though some people might think they are overpriced I'm OK with that. I just don't want to invest $2+K into a home theater system with what I know will be "sub-par" low-end performance without the ability to upgrade.

My question in regards to making an informed decision is....If I purchase the Bose Lifestyle V30 system is it going to be as simple as:

1. Purchasing the Bose Lifestyle V30 system
2. Purchase some 50HZ fmods
2. Run the Y splitter from the sub output (on the Bose system) to the sub and the additional receiver
3. Tune the receiver to my optimal settings

I know I still have to go through the gambit of mounting the Shakers, wiring them for the correct ohm load and all of that other stuff but I just want to focus on the compatibility of hooking up an additional receiver to a Bose Lifestyle V30 system...

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks,
Austin

Gosh, did I reiterate "Bose Lifestyle V30 system" enough in this thread...ha
popalock is offline  
Old 07-30-2009, 06:32 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Hey guys,

Great forum, great thread and great input from everyone. I took my time and I've read all 37 pages of this thread and I believe I finally have a question that someone has yet to ask!!!

Has anyone attempted to attach a separate Receiver to a Bose Lifestyle system?

I've yet to make the purchase for the Bose Lifestyle V30 system but I have downloaded the user manual and I cannot find ANYTHING in the manual indicating a LFE? Don't get me wrong, I know there is a SUB output for the Acoustimass Subwoofer but it does not look like it is a RCA output? I can't tell from the actual user manual but the hook up from the Subwoofer to the Bose receiver appears to be one of those special "Bose" only adapters? Or am I mistaken?

I like the Bose system because it provides big sound yet it is so compact and though some people might think they are overpriced I'm OK with that. I just don't want to invest $2+K into a home theater system with what I know will be "sub-par" low-end performance without the ability to upgrade.

My question in regards to making an informed decision is....If I purchase the Bose Lifestyle V30 system is it going to be as simple as:

1. Purchasing the Bose Lifestyle V30 system
2. Purchase some 50HZ fmods
2. Run the Y splitter from the sub output (on the Bose system) to the sub and the additional receiver
3. Tune the receiver to my optimal settings

I know I still have to go through the gambit of mounting the Shakers, wiring them for the correct ohm load and all of that other stuff but I just want to focus on the compatibility of hooking up an additional receiver to a Bose Lifestyle V30 system...

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks,
Austin

Gosh, did I reiterate "Bose Lifestyle V30 system" enough in this thread...ha

The bose output is for their "Acoustimass® module" and not for a subwoofer. That module is used to reproduce everything below about 300 Hz down. It is NOT a subwoofer, and they don't even call it one. It is more like a mid-woofer. The frequencies it reproduces include fundamental frequencies of most male voices. Make sure, if you get it, to put that module in the center below your screen, otherwise, male voices will seem to come from the corner of the room, or from behind the couch, or wherever you put the bose Acoustimass® module.

If you've not yet purchased the bose unit, please consider other alternatives... There are so many with MUCH better performance at far less cost that have a true LFE output for the shakers. Even a lot with small satellite speakers.
See this link for more details: http://www.intellexual.net/bose.html

The bose units are perfect for hiding the speakers, and interior decorators love them. they are almost never displayed where you can compare them with other speakers side-by-side, because they really cannot compare to far less expensive units in their ability to reproduce music. Oh, they sound ok, but once you try to increase the volume, or play something with real bass, like most movies today, you'll find them lacking... the marketing of them is very refined... and that is where much of the cost of the Bose units is reflected...

Of course, if you are in an apartment, or have close neighbors where the bass might annoy them, then the combination of the bose unit and the shakers might just work perfectly for you if you can figure out how to attach a separate amplifier and get a true LFE output. Then you'll get some sensation of the bass in the movies, but not have to deal with much vibration from their Acoustimass module.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
Old 07-30-2009, 06:53 AM
AVS Special Member
 
damnsam77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Beautiful Colorado
Posts: 2,293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
As they say a Picture is worth 1000 words...this has been asked about and discussed many times, so I thought I'd share how I installed my Aura Pro Bass Shakers into each Showtime recliner seat.

As you can see I used some left over OSB sheets, I believe they were 1/2" or 3/4". And I cut them via table saw so that length-wise they will reach the front and back wooden frames of the seat so I can have something to screw the OSB panel to. I believe the width was about 15"...and the length is about 30"...give or take. I took exact measurements at the time and cut 8 OSB sheets to size. Then I found a center spot where I can mount the shakers and at the same time tested the reclining mechanism and movement to make sure the shakers were never in the way of the movement or grind up against the reclining mechanism. Once I found the sweet spot, I mounted them onto the OSB using 4 screws.

Also it's good to mention that I used two Series/Parellel connections, one for the front row and one going into the back row both going into the 4ohm 200watts per channel stereo amp made by Behringer. So I was able to achieve the low 4ohm settings through each shaker, so needless to say these things rated at 50watts/4ohm each will shake your butt off!

Enough talking, here are the pictures....Remember with the showtime seats, you will have to take the back pad off anf lip the seat over. If you need more info or you're curious to see the rest of my theater, feel free to check out my completed construction thread, you will be pleasantly surprised. Feel free to leave any comments on the construction thread as well.





damnsam77 is offline  
Old 07-30-2009, 07:05 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

As they say a Picture is worth 1000 words...this has been asked about and discussed many times, so I thought I'd share how I installed my Aura Pro Bass Shakers into each Showtime recliner seat.

As you can see I used some left over OSB sheets, I believe they were 1/2" or 3/4". And I cut them via table saw so that length-wise they will reach the front and back wooden frames of the seat so I can have something to screw the OSB panel to. I believe the width was about 15"...and the length is about 30"...give or take. I took exact measurements at the time and cut 8 OSB sheets to size. Then I found a center spot where I can mount the shakers and at the same time tested the reclining mechanism and movement to make sure the shakers were never in the way of the movement or grind up against the reclining mechanism. Once I found the sweet spot, I mounted them onto the OSB using 4 screws.

Also it's good to mention that I used two Series/Parellel connections, one for the front row and one going into the back row both going into the 4ohm 200watts per channel stereo amp made by Behringer. So I was able to achieve the low 4ohm settings through each shaker, so needless to say these things rated at 50watts/4ohm each will shake your butt off!

Enough talking, here are the pictures....Remember with the showtime seats, you will have to take the back pad off anf lip the seat over. If you need more info or you're curious to see the rest of my theater, feel free to check out my completed construction thread, you will be pleasantly surprised. Feel free to leave any comments on the construction thread as well.






Looks good.

I hope that the screws that you used to attach the shakers to the OSB do not extend past the top surface of the OSB. Otherwise, they could impale the bottom of a person who sits down quickly and stretches the springs holding the seat. It is hard to see the clearance you have, hopefully it is way more than sufficient.

Yes, I agree, much more than 15-20 watts per shaker will probably cause them to bottom out on some scenes. I like them when their effect is subtle, but evident... but then again, I have a pair of 18" subwoofers, each in a 12.5 cubic-foot cabinet, with a total of 13L of linear displacement to fill out the experience.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
Old 07-30-2009, 07:23 AM
AVS Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 4,583
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 996 Post(s)
Liked: 1364
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Quote:


J. L.;16912922]The bose output is for their "Acoustimass® module" and not for a subwoofer. That module is used to reproduce everything below about 300 Hz down. It is NOT a subwoofer, and they don't even call it one. It is more like a mid-woofer. The frequencies it reproduces include fundamental frequencies of most male voices. Make sure, if you get it, to put that module in the center below your screen, otherwise, male voices will seem to come from the corner of the room, or from behind the couch, or wherever you put the bose Acoustimass® module.

Dang, I did everything in my power not to get punked for my post but I should have known the AV studs on here would put me in my place.

Thank you for better defining "Acoustimass" for me my good sir... =)

Quote:


If you've not yet purchased the bose unit, please consider other alternatives... There are so many with MUCH better performance at far less cost that have a true LFE output for the shakers. Even a lot with small satellite speakers.
See this link for more details: url -not allowed but it was an informative one...

Funny how a little bug in your ear (JL) can change a persons perspective on the direction you want to take on a home theater system.... =)

Quote:


The bose units are perfect for hiding the speakers, and interior decorators love them. they are almost never displayed where you can compare them with other speakers side-by-side, because they really cannot compare to far less expensive units in their ability to reproduce music. Oh, they sound ok, but once you try to increase the volume, or play something with real bass, like most movies today, you'll find them lacking... the marketing of them is very refined... and that is where much of the cost of the Bose units is reflected...

Of course, if you are in an apartment, or have close neighbors where the bass might annoy them, then the combination of the bose unit and the shakers might just work perfectly for you if you can figure out how to attach a separate amplifier and get a true LFE output. Then you'll get some sensation of the bass in the movies, but not have to deal with much vibration from their Acoustimass module.

Joe L.

I see where you are going with this. My main reasoning behind wanting a Bose system was because I didn't want to have to start from scratch... All good points though and I agree that they are overpriced for sure... I'll just take my time and do things right. The Bass Shakers will just have to wait a bit longer...

I appreciate your time and I look forward to following and contributing to this forum from now on...!
popalock is offline  
Old 07-30-2009, 10:37 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Dang, I did everything in my power not to get punked for my post but I should have known the AV studs on here would put me in my place.

Thank you for better defining "Acoustimass" for me my good sir... =)



Funny how a little bug in your ear (JL) can change a persons perspective on the direction you want to take on a home theater system.... =)



I see where you are going with this. My main reasoning behind wanting a Bose system was because I didn't want to have to start from scratch... All good points though and I agree that they are overpriced for sure... I'll just take my time and do things right. The Bass Shakers will just have to wait a bit longer...

I appreciate your time and I look forward to following and contributing to this forum from now on...!

It was you who said in your post:
Quote:


I just don't want to invest $2+K into a home theater system with what I know will be "sub-par" low-end performance without the ability to upgrade.

If you purchase the Bose system, there is no upgrade path... other than to sell it and replace it with something better suited for your needs.

You did not seem too concerned by the 2K+ cost. That gives you TONS of options. I'd look in the "Home-Theater-in-a-box" forum for some ideas if you want an all in one solution... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=109

Or, of course, there are many other possibilities if you simply want to pick up separates. There are others on AVS who can give you lots of advice... You just need to filter out their suggestions to match your needs. Since AVS itself sells AV equipment, why not give them a call and ask their suggestions for a package to meet your price.

The Bose system does not reproduce the low bass in today's movies. Not even close. It certainly cannot do it in any size room. (Basic physics... to make loud, low frequency sounds you must pressurize the air in the room. The lower the frequency, the more air you MUST move to pressurize it to the same loudness/sound-pressure-level)

It is why you can hear decent bass with earphones, but will never hear subwoofer bass at 20Hz from their accousticmass module, With an earphone the diaphragm must only pressurize the air in your ear canal. The small speakers in the Bose can only move a small amount of air at low frequencies to pressurize it. I think I've read they have 5 or 6" cones.

To reproduce bass in a living room or theater of any size requires a speaker with a fair amount of displacement (the cone must move in and out a fair amount) Most home theater grade subwoofers have at least a 10 or 12" diameter woofer if they are going to reproduce really low frequencies. Even then, they will be limited in how loud they can get by the excursion limits of the driver suspension. (Any driver can move its diaphragm slowly, the real question is can it move enough air to get to the required sound-pressure-level in the space it is being used.) You can see the drivers I used in my subwoofers in this thread: http://www.hometheaterforum.com/foru...um-subwoofer/0

Unfortunately, the Bose Acoustamass module does not even have a published frequency response. They do say the whole system goes down to 40Hz or so. That is about two octaves above much of the material on today's DVDs.

Here is a dedicated thread on the V30. It describes ow it is unable to deal with sound on BlueRay disks... another possible consideration as you consider it. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=988485 They too suggest the accoustimass module be near the center channel so voices are not coming from the corner of the room.

Here is another thread on the V30: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=950338

Good luck in your decision, and in your purchase. Everybody has their own needs, and their own budget, and their own likes and dislikes. I can tell you one thing, people who visit my theater first are in awe of the size of the 110" screen, but when they leave, all they can talk about is the way it sounds. You can get immersed in a movie... visually and aurally. the shakers are just part of that experience...

Give AVS a call... they'll make a few suggestions, and you can decide what is best for you.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
Old 08-05-2009, 02:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 4,583
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 996 Post(s)
Liked: 1364
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. L. View Post

Good luck in your decision, and in your purchase. Everybody has their own needs, and their own budget, and their own likes and dislikes. I can tell you one thing, people who visit my theater first are in awe of the size of the 110" screen, but when they leave, all they can talk about is the way it sounds. You can get immersed in a movie... visually and aurally. the shakers are just part of that experience...

Give AVS a call... they'll make a few suggestions, and you can decide what is best for you.

Joe L.

Joe, thanks again for the great info... Money isn't necessairly a huge concern but I definitely want to make the most informed decision I possibly can.

So, I've moved on from the thought of "BOSE"... Now I am leaning towards the Onyko HT-S9100THX system. I spent the last few days reading the manual and it has the LFE out to feed the secondary receiver.

I have another quick question for you JL...

I've read that people have split their LFE signal more than once and I see no mention of how many times you can get away with doing this without "pushing the limit too far".

With that said, here is my question.

Would I be able to purchase another idential sub to make it a 7.2 setup? In theory would I be able to make it a 7.4 setup by simply splitting the LFE channel multiple times and hooking up several subs?

I just know I am going to find out that the SKW-960 sub cannot be sold sepatetely, which will obviously through off my potential plans of hooking up 2 subs in addition to the bass shakers, but I am just attempting to gague my thought process on the multiple sub application...

Anyway, let me know...

Thanks.

BTW, I found (what I think) is a good deal on a pair of the Bass Shaker "Pros".
http://www.discounthomeautomation.co...&cvsfp=AAST2B4
popalock is offline  
Old 08-05-2009, 05:41 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Joe, thanks again for the great info... Money isn't necessairly a huge concern but I definitely want to make the most informed decision I possibly can.

So, I've moved on from the thought of "BOSE"... Now I am leaning towards the Onyko HT-S9100THX system. I spent the last few days reading the manual and it has the LFE out to feed the secondary receiver.

The Onyko HT-S9100THX looks like a HUGE upgrade from the "lifestyles" system you were originally considering. The subwoofer actually goes down to 20Hz. I think you'll be happy.

I personally have a much older Onkyo Envision HT-in-a-box system in my den. I think I purchased it about 8 or 9 years ago. At the time, the MSRP was a bit over $1100. I was able to find it for 3/4 of that... The DVD player is integrated in the receiver. You can see mine here. Its sound is a huge upgrade from the speakers in the den TV, but nowhere near that I have in my theater with full size speakers.
Quote:


I have another quick question for you JL...

I've read that people have split their LFE signal more than once and I see no mention of how many times you can get away with doing this without "pushing the limit too far".

With that said, here is my question.

Would I be able to purchase another idential sub to make it a 7.2 setup? In theory would I be able to make it a 7.4 setup by simply splitting the LFE channel multiple times and hooking up several subs?

Yes, you can split the LFE output quite a few times and not have any problem at all.
Quote:


I just know I am going to find out that the SKW-960 sub cannot be sold sepatetely, which will obviously through off my potential plans of hooking up 2 subs in addition to the bass shakers, but I am just attempting to gague my thought process on the multiple sub application...

Anyway, let me know...

Thanks.

The subwoofers do not have to be Onkyo... all they need is an LFE input, and turn themselves on when they get a signal. Those are available in 90% of all subwoofers. If you add an additional subwoofer, it does not have to be identical to the first. Don't get hung up thinking you need to have them match. Most people only have 1 subwoofer... Rarely do you see two, you might want to delay your purchase of a second until you see what one will do in your room.
Quote:


BTW, I found (what I think) is a good deal on a pair of the Bass Shaker "Pros".
http://www.discounthomeautomation.co...&cvsfp=AAST2B4

It does look like a great price.

Have fun... Looks like you'll have a better sounding system than most everybody you know.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
Old 08-05-2009, 05:50 AM
AVS Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 4,583
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 996 Post(s)
Liked: 1364
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. L. View Post

Have fun... Looks like you'll have a better sounding system than most everybody you know.

Joe L.

Joe, I know we just met but....

I...

I love you...
popalock is offline  
Old 08-11-2009, 11:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 4,583
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 996 Post(s)
Liked: 1364
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
I ordered 4 today! Looking forward to giving these a test run! This thread has been great...
popalock is offline  
Old 08-12-2009, 03:06 PM
Member
 
grod777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bronx,NY
Posts: 115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Does anyone have any recommendations for an decent priced amp that can drive my 3-4 Aura Pro's and that can I can program my Logitech remote to turn it on? I am currently using and old Onkyo but I have a new Onkyo 705 and my problem is that when I press my activity button on my logitech remote it turns one receiver on but not the other. I guess they both use the same IR signal.
grod777 is offline  
Old 08-12-2009, 06:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jamis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,922
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 14
I use a BASH subwoofer plate amp which has an 'Auto' setting. This puts the amp in standby mode automatically after a short period of inactivity and turns it back on with an LFE signal.

This amp has that feature as well and should power 4 shakers without a problem: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-804

Not sure whats going on with your Onkyos....
jamis is offline  
Old 08-15-2009, 06:10 PM
Advanced Member
 
adude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 780
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I used an old, lying around Insignia 2 channel receiver and put one each Aura Pro in recliners. Borrowed some ideas from here on connections and mounting the shaker.

Dunno why I did not do it before. I watched the Lost pilot episode's beginning, the airplane crash scene. The feeling of sound is so nice...

Thanks to all you geniuses here at AVS.

Manoj
adude is offline  
Old 08-15-2009, 10:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 4,583
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 996 Post(s)
Liked: 1364
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Ok guys,

I have ran into a rather unique situation that I have yet to see anyone come accross.

I recently bought the Definitive Technology Supercube II and a Yamaha receiver. I'll give the model of the Yamaha if it is really necessary but it has nothing with the receiver as far as I can tell...

My Yamaha receiver has the LFE out. I have the Y adapter connected to the LFE out with one side going to the Def Tech Sub but when I split the other side to feed my Insignia amp to it's CD input it kills the Def Tech Sub? I've tried to input into the phono input on the Insigna receive and I get the same thing.

Has anyone had trouble splitting the signal from their LFE output?

What am I doing wrong?

Pissing me off because I want to try these out SUPER bad...
popalock is offline  
Old 08-16-2009, 05:51 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Ok guys,

I have ran into a rather unique situation that I have yet to see anyone come accross.

I recently bought the Definitive Technology Supercube II and a Yamaha receiver. I'll give the model of the Yamaha if it is really necessary but it has nothing with the receiver as far as I can tell...

My Yamaha receiver has the LFE out. I have the Y adapter connected to the LFE out with one side going to the Def Tech Sub but when I split the other side to feed my Insignia amp to it's CD input it kills the Def Tech Sub? I've tried to input into the phono input on the Insigna receive and I get the same thing.

Has anyone had trouble splitting the signal from their LFE output?

What am I doing wrong?

Pissing me off because I want to try these out SUPER bad...

It almost sounds as if the splitter or cable used to feed the Insigna receiver is defective.

Test it by putting the splitter and new cable into place, but do not plug the far end of the cable used to feed the Insignia in at all. Just leave it unplugged.

If the sound is still not present, try with just the splitter and no attached cable. If you just put the splitter into place and no sound results, it is defective. if the sound goes away when you attach the cable to the splitter, but not plugged into the 2nd amplifier, then it is probably shorted.

If the sound is present, but then goes away only when you make the last connection to the Insigna amplifier, then I will be very surprised. It would indicate a very low impedance input on the receiver and a very high output impedance on the LFE output on your Yamaha.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
Old 08-16-2009, 11:33 AM
Advanced Member
 
adude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 780
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Papalock,

I am also using the Insignia Receiver/amp. On that, the tape input is linked to aux output. So, I have connected the LFE from Onkyo receiver to Tape input on insignia, and Aux output to powered sub. It works fine.

Check if yours is also like this and give it a try. I can post the Insignia model no if you want.

Manoj
adude is offline  
Old 08-21-2009, 11:16 AM
AVS Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 4,583
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 996 Post(s)
Liked: 1364
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Quote:Originally Posted by adude

Popalock,

I am also using the Insignia Receiver/amp. On that, the tape input is linked to aux output. So, I have connected the LFE from Onkyo receiver to Tape input on insignia, and Aux output to powered sub. It works fine.

Check if yours is also like this and give it a try. I can post the Insignia model no if you want.


Hey, thanks... Your way sounds pretty unique.

I ended up just splitting the LFE out of my Yamaha Reciever and sending the LFE signal to the CD input and my DefTech Supercube II. It was weird for a second though. It wasn't working then all of a sudden I unplugged everything, plugged it back in and powered it up and everything was working fine!

Soooo....

Now, I have a set up I am super proud of!!!!

Samsung LN52B750 LCD
Yamaha RX-V465 Reciever
Bose Acoustimass Speakers
Definitive Technologies Supercube II Sub
Insignia NS-R2000 Reciever (100 x 2) - For the Bass Shakers
PS3 Bluray

Oh, and the Bass Shaker Pro's ROCK! They totally compliment the Supercube... I pushed them hard when I first got them and they were SUPER over the top so I think the original Bass Shakers would to the trick just fine.

I'd hook you guys up with pictures of the install but we are actually getting rid of our couch in a few days and getting a brand new furniture setup in our living room.

I'd like to thank everyone for their help and I can't say enough about how helpful this forum is...

v/r,
Austin

Last edited by popalock; 07-07-2014 at 08:52 AM.
popalock is offline  
Old 08-21-2009, 11:36 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J. L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Posts: 1,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Oh, and the Bass Shaker Pro's ROCK! They totally compliment the Supercube... I pushed them hard when I first got them and they were SUPER over the top so I think the original Bass Shakers would to the trick just fine.

I'm certain they would... because the original Bass-Shakers and the Pro versions are absolutely identical internally. The differences are the fins on the outside of the "pro" version, and the binding posts... and, of course the cost.

According to correspondence with Aura, inside they are the same. When fed with identical level signals, they shake the same. The "pro" versions are apparently able to handle more power (supposedly, the fins will let them dissipate heat better), but both versions will reach their excursion limits way before their power rating is reached.

Glad you enjoy the way your system is sounding. I am going to guess it can blow away the Bose system you were originally considering.

Joe L.
J. L. is offline  
 
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off