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post #1 of 34 Old 04-28-2007, 12:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone recommend a set of plans for a DIY riser?

Here are the links I've collected so far: http://del.icio.us/RichardBerg/riser Seeing as I'm not the handiest person in the world, personal recommendations of "this really worked and only took one weekend" would go a long way. Simplicity is more important at this point than acoustics, ergonomics (eg steps), or looks. I'd use cinder blocks if I thought they were stable enough

Looking for something fairly high (15-20"), wide enough for 3-4 seats.
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post #2 of 34 Old 04-28-2007, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Aha, found a simple one at last: http://www.diy-home-theater-design.c...-platform.html I think this will fit the bill, unless you guys think it has an obvious failure point.

Dumb question while I've got this thread: what's the best way to fasten the main 2x6 to the studs? Based on the analogy to building a wall I was thinking lots of plain-jane nails but the article mentions something about screws.
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post #3 of 34 Old 04-28-2007, 11:24 PM
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I'd use screws - not nails.

My plans were extremely simple.
My riser is 5x8 wide (should've done 5 1/2 x 8 or 6 x 8. Two pieces of 5/8" plywood. 1 4x8 & 1 1x8.
4 2x4s to make a 5x8 rectangle. Screw plywood to 5x8 rectangle.

Make a bunch of 12" legs with 2x4s. Each corner has 2 2x4 legs and there are 2 sets of legs in the middle front and middle back.
everything is attached with wood screws (3 inch screws).

very simple. Very sturdy.

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post #4 of 34 Old 04-29-2007, 04:34 PM
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What are the legs for? Does this riser actually stand up on the legs like stilts?
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post #5 of 34 Old 04-29-2007, 04:54 PM
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Mine does. The legs are for height, since my riser is 12 3/4 inches high.

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post #6 of 34 Old 04-29-2007, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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That sounds like an easier way to get height than building two 2x6 platforms. I give up the "integrated" step but I don't really care -- none of my friends has bad knees or anything. It also makes the height more easily adjustable.
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post #7 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 06:13 AM
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Easier, cheaper, faster to build. My brother in law gets the credit. I told him what I wanted and he did most of the work, including the design. Although he built it with a total of 4 legs. I added 8 additional 2x4 legs (doubled up each corner and added dual legs in the front middle and front back).

Extremely sturdy. You could use 4x4 legs as well - may be even easier.

For my equipment 'rack' under my screen, I just built 2x4 platform 8 feet long/22 inches deep, painted black. I used a higher grade 3/4" plywood for the equipment rack though.

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post #8 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Heh. I built this rack: http://www.jetcom.org/~jsb/flexirack.php It sits in the back of the room (closer to projector, don't have to worry about blinkenlights).
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post #9 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 08:47 AM
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Well, when I built my room, I thought of *almost* everything. I never even considered not putting the equipment in the front of the room, even though I have a perfect location in the very back. I got all the speaker wiring, cat 5 & coax perfect. Even got the ceiling outlets, outlets for an electrical screen and mounting wall for the screen perfect.

never ever considered the equipment location (other than to assume it would be in front since that's where I always had it with my TV).

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post #10 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I've made a lot of changes along the way. Just the other day I moved the secondary screen to the front wall again after flip-flopping a few times. Running VGA under the rug only took about a minute. I call it the "ghetto home theater" for a reason
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post #11 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 02:17 PM
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It is a good idea to place your riser on isolation legs or hockey pucks. also be sure to leave a gap between the riser and surrounding walls. Also as to height, anything over 7" will require a step by code.

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post #12 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 02:34 PM
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My riser isn't permanent construction by any means.
It's a platform with a sofa sitting on top of it, but the platform is not attached to the floor (just sitting on top of it) and is at least 30 inches from every wall.
The platform will eventually be carpeted, but currently is just bare wood.

I'm hoping no codes would apply to me.

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post #13 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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If a home inspector saw this house, a high step in the theater room would be the least of his concerns!

Hockey pucks (or maybe just rubber sheeting) sounds like a good idea since the riser will sit on a rug.
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post #14 of 34 Old 05-02-2007, 11:21 AM
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I have no skills and did my own. It worked out great and only took a few hours to do it (no carpet -- i paid someone to come do that later).

Here is what I did: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7959739

This is the plans, then the post in the thread entry shows the finished product w/carpet.

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post #15 of 34 Old 05-02-2007, 01:08 PM
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Not exactly plans, but you can find pic's of the riser construction on my site...


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post #16 of 34 Old 07-16-2007, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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As predicted, I was able to do it in one weekend with no skills -- I don't even own a saw

http://www.flickr.com/photos/richard...7600846030367/

Final riser followed these plans most closely (two stacked platforms made from 2x6's). Final size is 6' D x 12' W x 1' H with a 1' step.

Thanks everyone!
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post #17 of 34 Old 07-16-2007, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Berg View Post

As predicted, I was able to do it in one weekend with no skills -- I don't even own a saw

http://www.flickr.com/photos/richard...7600846030367/

Final riser followed these plans most closely (two stacked platforms made from 2x6's). Final size is 6' D x 12' W x 1' H with a 1' step.

Thanks everyone!


Very impressed! I am looking into making a riser and mught have to steal these plans What was your total cost?
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post #18 of 34 Old 07-16-2007, 02:40 PM
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I'm not sure of his costs, but

a 2x4 8 feet long is under $3.
a 5/8" thick 5'x8' sheet of plywood is generally under $20. Although it looks like the plywood he used is higher grade. Probably about $28 sheet.

As much wood as he has, he probably used a lot of screws. Maybe $12-$15 total.
Assuming you have tools already, it's not expensive at all.
My riser cost was around $100, but that included buying a circular saw.

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post #19 of 34 Old 07-16-2007, 10:32 PM - Thread Starter
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My cost was a bit over $100, but keep in mind it's HUGE - fits 4 Berklines - almost twice the area of some other plans I've seen. It's also overengineered. I'm sure I could've gotten away with studs every 18" instead of 12", and/or thinner plywood.

Materials:
(11) 12' 2x6 - 4 uncut (long sides), 6 cut in half (6' studs), 1 cut into a 6' and 5' piece
(6) 10' 2x6 - each cut in half (5' studs)
(2) 1lb boxes of #8 3" wood screws
(12) 3"x5" sheet metal joints (dunno the right term -- see pics)
(1) small bag of #6 1" wood screws
(3) 4'x8' pieces of 3/4" plywood, each cut into a 4'x5' rectangle**, and one of the scrap pieces cut into thirds (three 4'x1' strips)

Tools:
cordless drill with lots of charge!

Assembly:
1) Set out the first layer of sides & studs as shown in the pictures. Mark the side pieces every 1' using a tape measure and Sharpie.

2) Screw together with the #8 screws, 2 per stud per side. The studs probably won't be perfectly uniform; shouldn't matter given the 3" screws. (My first 1lb box was actually 2.5" screws, which were a little scary to use on short studs).

3) Here's where I deviated from the linked plans. Screw one of the remaining 12' boards to the top back side, using the sheet metal joints and #6 screws. I used 8 joints, 4 per side.

4) Now assemble the top layer of studs & the 4th side piece. Use the lower studs as guides. Ensure the two levels are flush before screwing; this structure gets its strength from studs resting end-on-end yet mostly.

[The linked plans say to assemble the entire top layer separately. I don't think I could do so accurately enough. Not to mention my expanded version is a seriously heavy mofo.]

5) Just for security, I used 4 more metal joints to join the outer studs to each other (top to bottom).

6) Lay out the plywood. The top pieces require at least 4 screws; the stair pieces should only take 2. Use your Sharpie marks and previous screw holes as a guide to ensure you hit the studs; don't try to remeasure! (made that mistake) Put your weight on each corner as you're screwing, so that no vertical movement or warping is possible regardless of weight distribution.

7) Paint or carpet.

**Should actually be 4' x 63.5". I calculated the inside width instead of the outside width, resulting in the 3.5" gap that's visible in the last picture. Oops. Oh well, I have plenty of leftover plywood to fill in the 12' x 3.5" area. I'm treating it as an opportunity to add a stripe to my paint job
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post #20 of 34 Old 07-18-2007, 11:13 AM
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About all I have done so far in my theater is the riser, here is my construction thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=872315

I will be adding the pictures of the insulation and decking tonight when I get off work.

When you are figuring cost you really need to count in insulation. It took me 3 rolls of R34 (or something like that) at over $20 a roll just to insulate it.
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post #21 of 34 Old 07-19-2007, 10:32 AM
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There is a great DIY riser article over at Audioholics in their how-to section that was designed by Auralex. I used this same design in our reference home theater and it turned out great. Bit pricey when you use the mineral fiber, but the end result is well worth the expense.

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post #22 of 34 Old 07-19-2007, 02:03 PM
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Kris,

Is this riser designed specifically for tactile transducers if they are bolted to the top or underside of said riser... or are there better plans if going that route?

Thanks!

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post #23 of 34 Old 07-19-2007, 02:17 PM
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I have Bass shakers in my riser, they recommend they be mounted vertically and so I included a vertical mounting surface:

The three vertical stud pieces you see in front of the vertical with the BS is directly under where each theater seat is bolted so the vertical with the BS is right against the back of that.
It works nicely, but I later read about putting a sub ON the riser, so I added my second sub to the back of the riser and WOW what a difference with the Bass shakers and the sub.

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post #24 of 34 Old 07-24-2007, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished painting over the weekend; picture time!





Complete set here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/richard...7600846030367/
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post #25 of 34 Old 07-27-2007, 03:20 PM
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Now that is cool! Love the paint job.

I'll be doing risers soon too, so your thread gave some helpful links.

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post #26 of 34 Old 08-04-2007, 09:06 PM
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Richard,
So you built two risers and stacked one on top of the other?
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post #27 of 34 Old 08-05-2007, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatraw View Post

Richard,
So you built two risers and stacked one on top of the other?



Yes, that is the idea. Make 1 a foot shorter than the other so that you have a 1 ft step. I just finised mine, and bolted my amc theater seats to it. I will have to post pictures when I get all of my tools out. It took me and a friend 8 hrs to complete from buying wood to bolting seats. I didn't even make one cut, Homedepot did it for me...
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post #28 of 34 Old 08-05-2007, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbucfan1231 View Post

Yes, that is the idea. Make 1 a foot shorter than the other so that you have a 1 ft step.

Shouldn't there be 2 six inch steps instead for the proper building code? Just wondering...
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post #29 of 34 Old 08-06-2007, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haseeb View Post

Shouldn't there be 2 six inch steps instead for the proper building code? Just wondering...

He means a one foot horizontal surface to actually step on, not vertical height from the floor.
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post #30 of 34 Old 08-06-2007, 06:45 AM
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Another question...
One layer of plywood across the top? I read in other threads that you "need" two layers.
Is one enough?
Thanks.
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