Splitter advice/recommendations - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:48 PM
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Your system..?, did not know you owned one. Also you have not work in a large city where 2nd drops are not common. You proved your ignorance for not working for a company by not knowing that there are return drop amps out there...? And go back to post 18 where this shows, Ratman may throw some sarcasm and I hate to admit it, but he is 99% correct on his post.

Don't call me a youngin when I can produce a Jerrold 704 meter.
LL

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Old 01-31-2012, 06:58 PM
 
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I know you didn't know that. But you formed opinions about someone you don't know, against your own advice. And your pic of the Jerrold? Well color me impressed...not.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

I know you didn't know that. But you formed opinions about someone you don't know, against your own advice. And your pic of the Jerrold? Well color me impressed...not.

What ever..when you can post something that can help someone let us know.

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Old 01-31-2012, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Link to house/drop amplifier that performs this?

Just to mention one. (HCDA-1FRA-AG)

Holland also makes one that is passive forward with 10dB gain on the return. CableTronix also makes a couple that have 10 and 12dB gain on the return path.

Considering that an 8-out drop amp is nothing more than a standard drop amp with an 8-way splitter on the output, if an 8 out amp lists its return path loss as 0dB, it obviously has an amplifier on the return path.

CIAO!

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Old 01-31-2012, 09:01 PM
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Keep away from obsolete 900MHz splitters and RG59U coax cables. Use current 1Ghz or higher splitters and RG6U Quad Shielded coax cables.
LL

"A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME WILL SMELL AS SWEET. BUT IT DOES NOT FOLLOW THAT WHATEVER WE CHOOSE TO CALL A ROSE WILL POSSESS THE ROSE'S FRAGRANCE."

--Benjamin Breckinridge Warfield (1917)
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:24 PM
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meh. I have 8 tuners (in TVs, VCRs, DVRs and Capture Cards) and a cable modem connected, all without an amp. I've got fine levels at all of them. I use a mixture of splitters and a couple of directional couplers to balance things. Being a former Sweep Tech, I believe, qualifies me to say it all works great, It's just simple subtraction to balance things...
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Old 02-01-2012, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Sorry old friend but that statement is completely false.

Perhaps with a crappy cableco and/or ancient trunks. In my experience with Comcast in my particular area, it is quite true.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post

It's just simple subtraction to balance things...

Which the vast majority of people can't do.

CIAO!

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Old 02-01-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratman View Post

Perhaps with a crappy cableco and/or ancient trunks. In my experience with Comcast in my particular area, it is quite true.

With a signal level of +20dBmV or greater at the tap, the distribution splitter being within 100' of the tap and all outlets being within 50' of the distribution splitter, it can be done, although it's pushing it by running close to the minimum FCC requirements. With a signal level of 20dBmV at the tap and using Series 6 cable and a standard 8-way splitter, an outlet that is 150 feet (ex.: 60' tap to groundblock, 40' groundblock to splitter, 50' splitter to outlet) from the tap will have a signal level of ~+0.5dBmV. Too close to the FCC's minimum requirement of 0 for my comfort.

CIAO!

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Old 02-01-2012, 09:40 AM
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I'm not a cable tech. But, I do have some experience in my home and three others with adding splitters, running coax, terminating coax, etc. to 6+ drops without an amp(s).

Some of the longest runs are/were ~100'. Assuming an optimal signal on the incoming cable feed (which may differ in some areas/providers) it can work well. As it pertains to two of the homes, they converted to FiOS without any changes.

I can appreciate that the "cable guys" are also trying to help and provide recommendations based on their experiences/expertise. But, it gets annoying when one is told they are "wrong/incorrect".

Either way... hopefully the OP finds a simple/inexpensive solution.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by egnlsn View Post

With a signal level of +20dBmV or greater at the tap, the distribution splitter being within 100’ of the tap and all outlets being within 50’ of the distribution splitter, it can be done, although it’s pushing it by running close to the minimum FCC requirements. With a signal level of 20dBmV at the tap and using Series 6 cable and a standard 8-way splitter, an outlet that is 150 feet (ex.: 60’ tap to groundblock, 40’ groundblock to splitter, 50’ splitter to outlet) from the tap will have a signal level of ~+0.5dBmV. Too close to the FCC’s minimum requirement of 0 for my comfort.

Do you have a link to that spec? 0 dB seems pretty high, especially with modern tuners. -10 dB seems a bit more realistic. Heck, I had a 19" Trinitron back in the 80's that worked fine at -30dB or less.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post

Do you have a link to that spec? 0 dB seems pretty high, especially with modern tuners. -10 dB seems a bit more realistic. Heck, I had a 19" Trinitron back in the 80's that worked fine at -30dB or less.

FCC rules 76.605.a(3) reads "The visual signal level, across a terminating impedance which correctly matches the internal impedance of the cable system as viewed from the subscriber terminal, shall not be less than 1 millivolt across an internal impedance of 75 ohms (0 dBmV)." Granted, that is analog. Since 256QAM is run at -10dBc, the minimum QAM level at the outlet would be -10dBmV.

I know there were some great tuners out there.

CIAO!

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Old 02-01-2012, 10:11 PM
 
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Quote:


i had a 19" trinitron back in the 80's that worked fine at -30db or less.

hahahahahahahahaha!!!
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