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post #1 of 43 Old 04-07-2007, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I am going to be running cable thru out my parents new house. Since I will be running homeruns I will need about 900 feet total. They will have digital cable from Cablevision/IO. They really don't care about upgradability.

I'm wondering if I should use RG6 Quad or Dual?

From what I've read, the opinion on this various greatly. Some people say it's only needed when you live close to an airport or military base or have any extreme amount of wireless gear/radio frequencies around you. Other people say it's a necessity in any house.

I don't know if my parents would notice the difference, they are currently happy with their old 27" TV's on regular cable.

So what is the real world difference between Quad and Dual?

FWIW, The longest run will be 80', all the rest will be quite a bit shorter. I will be terminating with PPC EX6 compression F connectors that work with both Dual and Quad shielded RG6.
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post #2 of 43 Old 04-07-2007, 02:14 PM
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Better shielding can't hurt. And, it's cost differential isn't too much, if you figure in something for the labor.

If you look out the window, almost anything you see can now be a transmitter. Even trees, billboards, light stanchions and power poles. It's all over the place. So, you don't necessarily have to be near any major installations.

The other problem is, the Digital Cable channels can be anywhere in the spectrum....actually, "most everywhere in the spectrum" is a better way to put it. So, your/their favorite channel might be sent in the same frequency band as a local TV station, an FM station, or a two-way radio or cell transmitter. Ingress (leakage of the signal in to the Cable) can be a problem.

Not to mention the usual array of inside-the-home sources of interference, like lights, refridgerators, microwave ovens, computers, digital musical instruments, etc.

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post #3 of 43 Old 04-09-2007, 03:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response!

I'll have to check out the supplier to see what the cost difference is.
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post #4 of 43 Old 04-10-2007, 11:25 AM
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FWIW: Cablevision installers now use tri-shield here on L.I.
If it's close to the cost of standard RG6, then why not use it. Just remember to buy RG6 Quad ends too, as regular RG6 ends won't fit on quad cable.


The cable installer left 300' still in the 1000' box here last month because it was raining and he didn't feel like dragging the pullbox back to his van. My Digicon RG6 Snap & Seal (Blue) ends didn't fit on the tri-shield cable.
This was on the box: "Andrew Coaxial Cable A677TS-BVV "
http://www.andrew.com/catalog/produc...s.aspx?id=1007


I've been very happy with CommScope cable, looks like the quad-shield is only $20 more/1000' roll than tri-shield. $129 for 1000' quad vs $109 for 1000' tri-shield.
http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/pr...le.php#indoor6

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post #5 of 43 Old 04-10-2007, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Really?

I thought that a 1K' roll was going to be over $300, I thought I read people talking those prices here.

If I could get 1K' of RG6 Quad for anything under $200 I will be very happy!
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post #6 of 43 Old 04-10-2007, 02:33 PM
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Buy two @ Home depot:
BICC
500 Ft. Black RG 6 Quad Shield Coaxial Cable

Model 92041-45-08

Price: $63.00/ea
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post #7 of 43 Old 04-10-2007, 02:40 PM
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I'd point you here - $95 - but they are out until early May:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style=
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post #8 of 43 Old 04-10-2007, 03:31 PM
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Skip the quad shield...

Belden's info tends to indicate their tri-shield with the Duobond Plus outer wrap is superior to quad shield. It has a shorting fold in the outer foil layer that effectively electrically "seals" the shield wrap.

Get Belden 7915A, it's RG-6 tri-shield with solid copper core and sweep tested to 3GHz. I've seen 1K' for around $110 at this place. Maybe cheaper elsewhere...

This stuff has the DuoBond Plus outer shield configuration and with 3GHz rating, is more than enough for CATV, broadband, SAT, you name it. It's good stuff, Maynard....

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #9 of 43 Old 04-10-2007, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratman View Post

Buy two @ Home depot:
BICC
500 Ft. Black RG 6 Quad Shield Coaxial Cable

Model 92041-45-08

Price: $63.00/ea

So Home Depot or Monoprice cable is just as good as the expensive brands?
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post #10 of 43 Old 04-10-2007, 07:28 PM
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This is some general information directly from the Belden website that describes their higher grade shielding configurations.

Duobond III (Tri-Shield)
Duobond III utilizes the Duobond II design (foil/braid) plus an additional surrounding layer of Duofoil. This extra layer of foil improves shield reliability and provides an additional interference barrier.

Duobond IV (Quad Shield)
Duobond IV adds a second layer of braid to the Tri-shield design (foil/braid/foil/braid). This extra layer of braid shield provides improved strength and durability.

Duobond Plus®
This shield features the same foil/braid/foil construction as Duobond III but with the additional of a shorting fold in the outermost foil. This fold prevents a slot opening from being created in the shield, thereby preventing signal egress or ingress. This unique feature creates the effect of a solid metal conduit, which improves the high-frequency performance of the cable.


To me, it's important to note that Belden basically says the outer braid of quad shield is for strength and durability, not increased shielding.

The Duobond Plus shielding (like on the 7915A cable) seems to claim the best ingress/egress protection due to the shorting fold on the outer foil shield.

Seems the better option in two ways - comparable in price or cheaper than Quad, and better ingress/egress protection.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #11 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [/quote] View Post

So Home Depot or Monoprice cable is just as good as the expensive brands?

Right up front, I'm not expert. But I used the Monoprice bulk quad shield when I finished my basement. I have runs up to 90 feet. And they all work fine for me.
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post #12 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

Get Belden 7915A, it's RG-6 tri-shield with solid copper core and sweep tested to 3GHz. I've seen 1K' for around $110 at this place. Maybe cheaper elsewhere...

The website listed above says to use standard RG6 Snap-N-Seal connectors on the Belden tri-shield.
FWIW, I couldn't get the Thomas and Betts standard (blue ring) RG6 Snap-N-Seal connectors, or Digicon (blue ring) standard RG6 connectors to fit on the Andrew tri-shield cable. Maybe Belden tri-shield is different, but I'd be certain it fits before I order 50-100 of the wrong ends.

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post #13 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 10:11 AM
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I don't currently have any of the Belden, but I do have some Commscope tri-shield and am using Thomas & Betts Snap-n-Seal SNS1P6U connectors (red ring - if that matters) that fit just fine.

Hopefully this does not insult your intellegence, but I have to ask - you are removing the outermost foil shield before putting on the connector, yes?

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #14 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

I don't currently have any of the Belden, but I do have some Commscope tri-shield and am using Thomas & Betts Snap-n-Seal SNS1P6U connectors (red ring - if that matters) that fit just fine.

Funny, tri-state doesn't even list the Thomas and Betts SNS1P6U for use on the Belden tri-shield?


Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

Hopefully this does not insult your intellegence, but I have to ask - you are removing the outermost foil shield before putting on the connector, yes?

Yes, I had to remove the outtermost foil shield to get the blue RG6 connectors to fit. The cable guy didn't do that with the black connectors he used.

Ok, I just went down to our equipment room (at my job) where our cable connections are. On the Andrew tri-shield coax cable- the technician from Cablevision used (black) PPC EX6XL connectors: http://dlsus10.chainreactionweb.com/...roducts_id=629
So, it looks like with the tri-shield you really have to be specific w/the ends you use.

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post #15 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

This is some general information directly from the Belden website that describes their higher grade shielding configurations.

Duobond III (Tri-Shield)
Duobond III utilizes the Duobond II design (foil/braid) plus an additional surrounding layer of Duofoil. This extra layer of foil improves shield reliability and provides an additional interference barrier.

Duobond IV (Quad Shield)
Duobond IV adds a second layer of braid to the Tri-shield design (foil/braid/foil/braid). This extra layer of braid shield provides improved strength and durability.

Duobond Plus®
This shield features the same foil/braid/foil construction as Duobond III but with the additional of a shorting fold in the outermost foil. This fold prevents a slot opening from being created in the shield, thereby preventing signal egress or ingress. This unique feature creates the effect of a solid metal conduit, which improves the high-frequency performance of the cable.


To me, it's important to note that Belden basically says the outer braid of quad shield is for strength and durability, not increased shielding.

The Duobond Plus shielding (like on the 7915A cable) seems to claim the best ingress/egress protection due to the shorting fold on the outer foil shield.

Seems the better option in two ways - comparable in price or cheaper than Quad, and better ingress/egress protection.

Why does the triple shielded 7915A cost 3 times less than the dual shielded 1694A? What's the difference?
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post #16 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by replayrob View Post

The website listed above says to use standard RG6 Snap-N-Seal connectors on the Belden tri-shield.
FWIW, I couldn't get the Thomas and Betts standard (blue ring) RG6 Snap-N-Seal connectors, or Digicon (blue ring) standard RG6 connectors to fit on the Andrew tri-shield cable. Maybe Belden tri-shield is different, but I'd be certain it fits before I order 50-100 of the wrong ends.

I was told that PPC EX6 XL was just about the best compression F-connector. A nice feature is that they work on both dual and quad shield so I bet they will surely work on your tri shield.

EDITED: I see by your next post that you already knew that, Oops
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post #17 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [/quote] View Post

So Home Depot or Monoprice cable is just as good as the expensive brands?

You bet.
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post #18 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [/quote] View Post

Why does the triple shielded 7915A cost 3 times less than the dual shielded 1694A? What's the difference?

1694A is billed as a precision video cable having very tight impedance tolerances and very low loss. It's not really intended for CATV/broadband use, but I'm not sure why it wouldn't work fine for that. I guess one would have to carefully study the tech docs in detail to know for sure. Belden makes it and is an acknowledged "expert" in the field so I trust their opinion/recommendation.

I would speculate the primary reasons for the increased cost are the tighter manufacturing tolerances and that 1694A has 95% copper braid shield vs. 80% aluminum braid shield.

Personally, even though 1694A looks better on paper in some specs, I would stick to the cable use recommendations of Belden and stay with the 7915A as a premium cable for CATV/broadband/SAT use.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #19 of 43 Old 04-11-2007, 06:14 PM
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Belden 1694a is a fine coax with a bare copper (versus copper clad steel) center conductor, a foil shield, and a 95% tinned copper braid. By all means a great coax, but overkill for CATV distribution in the home.

Elsewhere there is talk about tri-shield vs. quad shield. As with anything, it depends on the quality of the manufacturer. Assuming it is all Belden (very good quality), the tri-shield will get you almost the same shielding protection as the quad-shield, especially in the higher frequency range. Braid is generally best for low frequencies, foil for high. That having been said, quad is much, much more common.

Be careful where and from whom you purchase the quad-shield, however. Most of the no-name coax out there does not come close to true 60/40% braid coverage. Stick with reputable brands like Belden (mentioned here) Commscope, General Cable, Honeywell Genesis, and Coleman Cable (Signal Brand). You should be able to find General Cable at Home Depot, General or Coleman at Lowe's, and Coleman at Menard's.

Connectors are also important. Be sure to use a compression type that seals the end of the coax well, and pay attention to whether you are buying a dual or quad connector to match the coax you have installed.

Hope this helps.

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post #20 of 43 Old 04-15-2007, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by replayrob View Post

Funny, tri-state doesn't even list the Thomas and Betts SNS1P6U for use on the Belden tri-shield?



Yes, I had to remove the outtermost foil shield to get the blue RG6 connectors to fit. The cable guy didn't do that with the black connectors he used.

Ok, I just went down to our equipment room (at my job) where our cable connections are. On the Andrew tri-shield coax cable- the technician from Cablevision used (black) PPC EX6XL connectors: http://dlsus10.chainreactionweb.com/...roducts_id=629
So, it looks like with the tri-shield you really have to be specific w/the ends you use.

Hello again, I had a question about what you said here:

Quote:


Yes, I had to remove the outtermost foil shield to get the blue RG6 connectors to fit. The cable guy didn't do that with the black connectors he used.

What did the cable guy do, just fold the foil back with the braid? I thought you were supposed to rip the foil off then fold the braid back (and of course leave the inner foil untouched around the dielectric)?



FWIW, I decided to go with the 7915A like whoaru99 recommends. I have 100 PPC EX6 connectors as well, it should all make for a good installation at my parents house.
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post #21 of 43 Old 04-16-2007, 06:51 AM
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Hello again, I had a question about what you said here:

What did the cable guy do, just fold the foil back with the braid? I thought you were supposed to rip the foil off then fold the braid back (and of course leave the inner foil untouched around the dielectric)?

It looks like he just slipped the PPC EX6 connector over the foil, no other prep work? I couldn't really get a good look from my vantage point, but he didn't waste any time trimming or fooling with the braid/foil at all. It was- strip cable w/coax strip tool, seat end on coax, fix end on cable w/compression tool. About 10 seconds for the whole procedure.

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post #22 of 43 Old 04-16-2007, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response!

I have Cablevision too and a cable that was installed by them not too long ago is a tri-shield just like you explained. I found it easy to strip and clean the end, and my PPC-EX6 connectors went on without too much fuss, but held tight. It seems like the Tri-shield is the way to go for me, the 7915A seems perfect.

If anyone has any info on the proper way to strip tri-shield I would appreciate it. I assume you rip the outer layer of foil off, then fold the braid back.
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post #23 of 43 Old 03-28-2011, 09:49 AM
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ok, I guess I'm one of those that is having issues.

I just installed regular RG6 Dual from Home Depot.

Having all sorts of pixelation.


So I was told by the cable company TWC, that I just had bad wiring. I was planning on changing how I ran my wiring, so I got the Home Depot dual.

I also have a master antenna in my apartment building, and I had RG59 which of course would not work after we went digital.

So I ran the Home Depot Dual stuff and made direct runs from access points.

So for cable, it has a 3 way splitter, one direct to internet modem, one to living room tv and one to bedroom tv.

The master antenna, has a 2 way splitter, one going to living room TV and the other to the bedroom TV.

Both transmission types are still having issues.

The master antenna is not able to get NBC unless, I disconnect the splitter and just go to one tv. (I actually in the end, need to run into another bedroom so I will have to split to get to that bedroom when I solve this issue).

Cable TV which only had an issue on certain channels, such at E! entertainment (724 in NYC if I'm correct).

Now after putting in this new Home Depot stuff, E! is better, but I'm getting pixelation on almost every channel, not a lot, but it's annoying. Every few seconds or so.

So I was about to run out and get the Quad, and now am totally confused because of reading about this 'Tri' stuff.

I don't care about cost at this point.

So which is the better of the two if money is not an object, Quad or TRI, which does better at shielding.

And which connectors should I use, is there a special shielded type for each of these wiring types.

I don't want to call cable for a service call and having them blame me on my wiring, yet again. LOL!

And do amplifiers really help (yes, I know, don't use them on the internet modem run of the wiring).

Thanks!

Rob

PS I guess I will handle shopping around for the best price, just need to know which way to go.

The DuoPlus stuff, looks too stiff for me going around corners? And was it Quad or TRI anyway?

Thanks again!

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post #24 of 43 Old 03-28-2011, 11:29 AM
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Are you sure about the quality of your cables?
Is the cable modem also having issues?
Look at the modem diag screen and check the D/S and U/S levels.
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post #25 of 43 Old 03-28-2011, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlanza1054 View Post


I don't want to call cable for a service call and having them blame me on my wiring, yet again. LOL!

And do amplifiers really help (yes, I know, don't use them on the internet modem run of the wiring).

well you already replaced your rg59 and it still doesn't work so you wanna go out a replace the WIRE you just replaced ?!?!


Honestly it doesn't sound like it's a quality issue with the wire itself but maybe a quality issue of connectors or installation of connectors. Your best bet would be to call the cable company, take the hit of them blaming your work and get them to make it right with their connectors and troubleshooting tools. It may be more than just the connectors and I just can't imagine having your cable company fix it for you being any more expensive or more of an inconvenience than rebuying yet even more cable wire and connectors only to find out it still doesn't work.

Most DIY cable installations lead to numerous problems for the people that do them especially with the digital age upon us. It really isn't as Foolproof as it was 10 years ago. I would let the cable company handle it so you can stop second guessing everything and enjoy the tv your paying for.
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post #26 of 43 Old 03-28-2011, 07:01 PM
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I agree with weags I doubt it's your cable very likely the connectors and a junk splitter. What we can get locally especially the connectors and the method they are attached doesn't compare to what the cable installers use. I've been doing my own cabling for years and that's the two issues I run into, connectors and splitters.

Did they check the signal quality at the entrance? You shouldn't need amps with what little you have unless they're very long runs. Where is the splitter installed at the entrance?

As for the antenna is this an outdoor antenna? How do you know it's pointing correctly? An amp may help on the antenna. I have a $20 outdoor antenna I now use as a backup since I get those channels with my cable co. I never had any issues as long as it was pointing in the right direction.
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post #27 of 43 Old 03-30-2011, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

I agree with weags I doubt it's your cable very likely the connectors and a junk splitter. What we can get locally especially the connectors and the method they are attached doesn't compare to what the cable installers use. I've been doing my own cabling for years and that's the two issues I run into, connectors and splitters.

Did they check the signal quality at the entrance? You shouldn't need amps with what little you have unless they're very long runs. Where is the splitter installed at the entrance?

As for the antenna is this an outdoor antenna? How do you know it's pointing correctly? An amp may help on the antenna. I have a $20 outdoor antenna I now use as a backup since I get those channels with my cable co. I never had any issues as long as it was pointing in the right direction.

I did replace all the splitters in the house, I'm using the ones that state they are for digital distribution. Not the 500-900 mhz stuff (not sure if I got that numbering correct, but you know what I mean).

I used at DigiMax (from the cable company) at the entrance, which is only inches inside my apartment, and the cable is boxed in the stairwell in building, and they have 4 ports per floor, one for each apartment on a floor.

The DigiMax is rated at 5mghz - 1ghz each side is -3.5db, it's tri-splitter as I mentioned in my original message.

On the cable box in diagnostic mode, there are errors.

They calm (cable) that I have too much power? Too high of a signal?

Doesn't make sense to me.

As far as the Master Antenna, because I'm in an apartment building, the antenna itself is on our roof (I live in a 15 story building, I live on the 4th floor). There is a amplifier in the basement (ground floor) that feeds up to each of the apartments with some kind of BNC wiring (it's really very thick), installed over 50 years ago when the building were built.

When we went digital, the replaced the antennas, repositioned them, and swapped out the old amplifiers.

I went to the office and they are going to try and find me an new wall plate, which is where I tap into the master antenna of the building.

When I mentioned I was having trouble with channel 4 (what it used to be) or I should say NBC, she said most residents were having trouble with NBC. Not sure if they are broadcasting from the same location as all the others.

When the World Trade buildings went down, not all of the broadcasters moved back to the Empire State Building (where it was before they built the original WTC). So it's kinda of hard to focus on multi-locations to receive reception.

I hope when the new WTC is rebuilt (seems it finally might be finished in 2 more years) they move the broadcasting back to one tower!

I'm wondering if it could just be the cable box itself, not able to handle the data compression that they are using.

Yes, I am willing to pull out the wiring that I just installed. It is all running through a molding, so all of these wires, are very close together. There are 2 cables in RG6, one for cable tv, the other for regular over the air tv, then there is a door bell that is located in my bedroom that I used old telephone wiring to hook it up with, which is a 12volt system. Probably doesn't do anything, since it only sends a signal when someone pushes the doorbell.

The other is 2 CAT 5 network wiring.

Lastly, there is about 3 wireless routers through out my house. And 2 6.0 cordless phone systems.

So when I read about outside interference, I figured upgrading to Quad wiring was the better way to go in the long run, to run out anything causing any inference in my reception on TV.


Thanks again.

Rob

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post #28 of 43 Old 03-30-2011, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Weags View Post

Most DIY cable installations lead to numerous problems for the people that do them especially with the digital age upon us. It really isn't as Foolproof as it was 10 years ago. I would let the cable company handle it so you can stop second guessing everything and enjoy the tv your paying for.

They will not rewire my house!

Unless, I pay a month salary for them to do it!

And they won't string it into my molding, they go the route that is the easiest for them on the outside of the wall.

I have molding that it goes into and it's actually a shorter distance than they take.

I've already asked for them to rewire it, and they said since I was an existing customer, I would have to pay to have it done!

Rob

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post #29 of 43 Old 03-30-2011, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rlanza1054 View Post


They will not rewire my house!

Unless, I pay a month salary for them to do it!

And they won't string it into my molding, they go the route that is the easiest for them on the outside of the wall.

I have molding that it goes into and it's actually a shorter distance than they take.

I've already asked for them to rewire it, and they said since I was an existing customer, I would have to pay to have it done!

Rob

Suit yourself but I guarantee you between all the trips to the hardware store not to mention the wires and connectors themselves you have already paid much more than most cable companies will charge you. The one I happen to work for is 30 bux an outlet. Not exactly monthly wage type of stuff.

If you don't like how they would run it ask them to run it your way and then you can take care of the molding. At least you can be assured everything including wire and connectors are put on right and are of good quality. They would also check your signal. You may just have a few bad connectors, or better yet it may not even be a wiring issue. You going out and replacing all the wires yet again will tell you none of this and probably won't fix your issue.

And yes high signal can cause the same issues as low signal. I don't believe that's your issue though. It could be the box too, but why not get it all checked out in one shot instead of all this back and forth and redoing this and that. When I'm in a house we check all services and make sure they are all in spec regardless of whether the customer requests us to do so. It helps to stop repeat service calls and fixes problems before the customer experiences any.

Im just giving you advice on what I would suggest you doing. Just like anything else, you can keep spending money multiple times over until you get it right or call the professionals and pay them to fix it for you.

I don't personally care what you do, i have no vested interest outside of offering help from my own experience ,but I have been in multiple hardware stores and see what they charge for cable hardware and wire and it makes no sense to me why, when you add it all up ,nevermind your time spent doing it, why people don't just have the cable company do it to start with. I can't imagine your cable company charging that much more than mine.

I see it all the time and that's why I'm usually there to rip out all the crap that people thought they were saving money by installing themselves. And they get charged just like any other service provider would charge.You wouldn't expect the electric company to rerun all your internal wires for free just because you pay a monthly service fee would you? Or if you do your own plumbing repairs and things don't go as planned would you expect the plumber to give you a break just because you tried to do it yourself?
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post #30 of 43 Old 04-03-2011, 12:40 AM
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Howdy all,
Hope you don't mind if I chime in with a few things. Been doing cable since late 70's and am currently the Special Ops contractor for a major MSO who fixes both Residential, Commercial and System problems.
First it does not matter about the Tri,Quad, bla bla bla shielded cable for residential applications under most circumstances. To many exceptions to list and if you fell under one of them the Cable Co would have installed the different wire.
Just use an average RG-56 cable. NEVER go to Radio Shack for anything cable TV related.
I usually give the customer a few connectors, splitters and cable if they need them.
As most of the stuff the sub gets a hold of is junk and will cause system noise issues.
rOriginal Poster 900' of cable? How many home runs?
A common mistake by residential subs is to home run every room in the house and then try and find a large splitter to to connect them all. With the splitter loss on such a big splitter or worse yet multiple splitters you have run out of signal and everything runs poor.
Pixelation Post
You say you have pixelation which is most likely caused by low levels.
Get online using the cable modem or router at the location with the problem.
Go here Crap first post won't let me post Url. OK Google Thomson cable modem diagnostics ( Most everyone can check basic modem stats here) If site is down check some of the others just need info below.
I am hoping a data box will come up and you can get some numbers.
Upper left side of the page should say diagnostics, click that,
I am interested the the Return Path Power level and what it says.
Should be measured in dBmV.
I don't want to bore you with too much mumbo jumbo and will try to explain in layman's terms what we are doing.
By checking the dBmv of your cable modem AKA "Transmit level" I can get a rough estimate of the forward levels you have. This will be rough depending on the splitter configuration you have before the modem, but it will allow me to see if you do in fact have too low of levels. Most modems want to see below 56 dBmv transmit level. Most cable systems give you 10 dBmv from the tap which is called headroom and this makes up for the splitters you have feeding phone, cable modems & cable boxes. It's simple math really.
You start with 10 and subtract. A 2 way split = -3.5 loss. A unbalanced 3 way split can be- 7.5,-7.5 and -3.5 for the outputs and a balanced 3 way is -5.5. most of the time as there is a few brands that are- 6.5.Pretty much add anything in a residential application over a 4 split and you have screwed the pooch as they have too much loss.
One of my jillion jobs is to fix cable modems with poor performance that are transmitting to hot. Most of the time this can be resolved by reconfiguring the splitters to give the modem more signal. Your cable box can run fine at -4 or-5, however,the same level to the modem will be too hot of a transmit and will run slow,intermittent or not at all.
So if you can get on that site and post the number here we can go from there. As long as your getting numbers grab the SNR ( Signal to Noise Ratio) under the Forward section as well. It wants to be over 30 dBmv

Just an Old Cable Dog with nothing better to do.
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