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post #31 of 400 Old 09-19-2010, 09:57 PM
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I hope you find a solution to this.

I have been having this cutout problem myself and just tonight tied it to the AC kicking on which made me do a search that led to this thread.

I am using the monoprice HDMI wallplate extenders. Today I re-ran Cat-6 cable instead of the 5e I was using and this made no difference. Tonight I just realized it was tied to the AC turning on/off. More specifically the upstairs unit.

Everything in my rack except the HDMI splitter was tied in to the Belkin Pure AV UPS. I plugged the HDMI splitter in to the UPS and it made not difference. I am having this problem with my Series 3 Tivos. The thing that makes me think it is not HDMI signal strength is because the HDMI 4x4 splitter is providing all the sources to the extenders. My HDMI cable length from the Splitter to the wallplate is only 1 foot, then 50ft of cat6 and then a 3ft cable to the tv.

I'm thinking it is either the power at the TV somehow affecting or creating a feedback through the HDMI and wallplate or somewhere my cat6 is running near a power wire that goes to my AC. Maybe using sheilded Cat6 would help in this case.

I'm considering taking out the splitter as a first test.
Pluggin the TV in to a wall outlet in another room to see if it is a circuit problem.
Trying an HDMI cable with ferrite cores on each end.
Last option is re-running sheilded Cat6 which I think is the most likely fix.

btw - there is similar thread with some av installers here:

http://www.avrev.com/forum/hdmi/4227...ng-baluns.html
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post #32 of 400 Old 09-20-2010, 09:17 AM
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Just in case this helps you with your diagnosis.

I removed the splitter and hooked my Tivo directly to my cat6 wallplates and the signal does not drop out when the AC goes on.

I thought maybe I needed to boost the signal going in to the wallplate and tried to use an active extender powered by the HDMI bus (the one you ordered from monoprice) and I found something out about the extender. When I hook my source in to the extender and then plug in to my wallplate, the wallplate stops working (no LED). IT seems the extender steals too much of the 5v to power the wallplate. I'm wondering if the splitter is not providing a solid 5V power signal and the dropout is actually occuring in the HDMI cable going in to the TV.

I tried the HDMI extender on the TV side and I get no signal at the TV.

So I plan to purchase a powered extender and see how that may help the signal or not. I'm pretty sure it isn't EMI as I tried plugging things in different places and again removing the splitter removes the problem.
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post #33 of 400 Old 09-20-2010, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for your input, bigDvette!! This makes me feel so much better that I'm not just going crazy, that this really is an issue with baluns.

Also I had not seen the link on avrev.com, thanks for that. There was one poster that indicated baluns by "Audio Control" seemed to work well, but a post by others may indicate that it's not a particular brand that matters but rather a pairing of "likeminded gear" ..

I would be very interested to hear how it goes with your active powered splitter also!

The baluns I use have a powered receiver. This no doubt is to supply the power over HDMI (per spec) as needed. So the extender (or rather "recoverer") device does power-up when connected to either end of the baluns. Installing at either end does not solve the problem, however. I STILL have not broken out my o'scope in all of this... I'm not sure it would help tremendously, I only have a 100mhz scope. I understand these bitrates to be much higher than that. I MAY be able to see "signal level" (e.g. voltage) differences, but most likely not signal-quality differences (edge-rates, eye diagrams, etc).

Since my Tivo S3 and OPPO BDP-80 do not exhibit the problem from their direct outputs, I am pretty sure it is an inferior output form the DVDO Edge. Funny, since it's a video processor.

Hopefully this can get fixed by Christmas..

Please post back any additional insights you find.. I will of course do the same.

thanks,
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post #34 of 400 Old 09-20-2010, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Another virtual shot-in-the-dark...

Reading up some more based on bigDvette's posts, I have read about some successes related to a little device like this one:

Cables To Go 42223 RapidRun Digital HDMI Voltage Inserter

While I still believe my problems to be related to signal-to-noise ratios (SNR) rather than a power pin dropout, I have read reviews on various sites about products much like this one with varying degrees of success. Some reviews that report similar situations have had their problems disappear. Others with similar problems have not seen such success.

More and more I am understanding what people mean by HDMI being so "difficult." Component Video was nowhere near the trouble... and from everything I understand, it has PLENTY of bandwidth to carry a 1080p (even a 2K res.) signal. It's the industry folks who get scared over an "analog" signal being too easily cracked. Silly, really-- NOTHING they do will keep the big big disc copiers from doing their (illegal) thing. It may keep a few (non-college) kids from making copies, but the real result is that it causes more and more headaches for the average consumer... --- sorry.. rant over!

Anyway, $15 for the hdmi recoverer.. another $15 for this guy.. I hate it. But the manual labor effort and cost involved to get an actual HDMI cable from AV closet to screen is still a MUCH more daunting task...

Anybody here try and of these 'hdmi voltage insert-ers' that could share their story?

cheers,
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post #35 of 400 Old 09-20-2010, 02:43 PM
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if a ceiling fan speed change also causes the problem than possibly it is EMI

agreed about component video: and you could switch it instantly : no handshake required

soon they will limit the resolution fed over component video to comply with ..more copy protection rules

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post #36 of 400 Old 09-20-2010, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markrubin View Post

if a ceiling fan speed change also causes the problem than possibly it is EMI

agreed about component video: and you could switch it instantly : no handshake required

soon they will limit the resolution fed over component video to comply with ..more copy protection rules

Normally I would tend to agree, but the Tivo (S3) and Oppo Bluray player both operate just fine with the fan clicking even from fully still to fully on.. So EMI is a possibility. But I think the root is something more nuanced. I am curious if it's the DVDO Edge not supplying enough "umph." That would LOOK like EMI problems, and may be exacerbated by EMI noise-- but it's not EMI that is the root cause but a poor/weak signal output... (in my opinion)

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post #37 of 400 Old 09-20-2010, 09:52 PM
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Thing that is just off to me is that my power is on ups/ conditioners on each end. Why would removing the splitter only do anything to keep the signal in sync. Theoretically nothing should change when ac goes on, but I believe the whole thing is at risk because I believe my mono price wall plates are stealing all the power off the hdmi line which is why if I use the extender on the tv side, I get no signal and when I use it between the source and the wall plate, the wall plate doesn't power. So I plan to hook in the powered booster right after it comes out of the wall plate to the tv and see if it the tv loosing sync due to a weak signal. Will only be a 2' run.
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post #38 of 400 Old 09-21-2010, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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(Sorry, ultra-long-winded answer follows... I did not have time to trim it down)

SHORT ANSWER

I am thinking more and more now that the root cause is that the last device in the chain just before the HDMI/Cat5e baluns is not putting out the full power necessary on the +5V line (pin 18 on a HDMI Type-A connector) for the HDMI sender-balun to properly apply the necessary pre-emphasis on the HDMI signals to run over long Cat5e links. The far end receiver is powered by a DC adapter so that its chip has power and to provide the +5V on pin18 to its downstream device. But the SENDER balun does not have a +5V DC power plug.. Nor should it need one. The HDMI spec says that the upstream device should provide that power..... but maybe that upstream device is NOT providing that power (or enough of it)...

LONG ANSWER

Well in theory, those opinions talking about EMI and ground loop issues (the two are extremely closely related) I believe are probably correct-- HOWEVER, I do NOT believe they are the ROOT cause, which is why using shielding Cat-X cables don't always fix the problem. In my case, I am stuck with what I have, running a new (HDMI) cable would be extremely difficult and costly. So the whole shielding issue is a moot point for me.

In my mind there are one or two things big possibilities..

(DISCLAIMER! I am not a pro on the HDMI spec! This is all just speculation on my part!).

On the one hand you have differential signaling (LVDS) being used on some the data lines. On the other hand you have NON-differential I2C communications going on for the DDC link.. At least this is my understanding. So the DDC link does not benefit from the differential techniques that the other data lines use. And since DDC is used in the HDCP handshake process, it's left to be more vulnerable over long runs. This *could* be helped by using shielded Cat5e/Cat6 cables, but again is not the root cause (in my mind)... Now it is true that I2C communication is extremely slow (Almost at a stand-still in comparison to the other channels in an HDMI link), and that's probably the reason that it is not differential (less costly). So that issue is probably not the root cause either.

Now, the second aspect is this +5V signal that's carried on pin 18 of a type-A HDMI connector. Reading various forums over the past couple of days looks like not all devices put out the max allowable power draw. The simple net result is that any downstream device that needs power to do its job (and expects it per the HDMI spec) is set up to be a disappointment if the upstream device can't power it sufficiently. Certainly active (chip-based) HDMI/Cat5e baluns need power for their chips to do their job. They act as a buffer/isolator/repeater device. But as with any electronic device, if power is 'starved,' then the device will work sometimes, but not other times. It becomes extremely "situational dependent." (hmmmm.... beginning to sound familiar, isn't it?)

In the baluns I use (Arkview), only the far-end (TV side) receiver is powered by a DC power adapter. I always wondered WHY the source-end adapter was not powered. Foolishly I thought that the far end device was simply supplying power to both sender and receiver. But that wouldn't really make sense-- Cat5e isn't really made for power distribution (though it CAN be used for it... just look at the PoE standard). So in retrospect I now believe the sender-balun is simply expecting to draw its power (because the HDMI spec says it can) from the upstream HDMI device. But not all upstream devices may actually provide the balun what it wants/needs (or maybe just not as cleanly as it should?), resulting in the sender-balun in some situations not having enough power to properly do its job..... The sender balun is being starved, which not only yields for a much WEAKER signal going through the Cat5e wires, but also makes those signals (and the transmitter device itself) much more vulnerable to EMI spikes.. even static electricity from a hand-to-doorknob-static-discharge). This *could* be the cause of these HDMI - Cat5e baluns not working the way they should with some devices, and working flawlessly with other devices. It sure is lining up with my understanding of electronic devices and what happens when you starve them of their full necessary power..

In fact, glancing quickly at an HDMI/Cat5e extender at Amazon finds this review.. sounds familiar.. the first comment listed below also sounds familiar.. the second comment I quote below is about the 10th time in the past couple of days that I have heard that bit of information, which is where I began formulating the above hypothesis.

Item: Tripp-Lite (Model P167-000) HDMI over Cat5 Active Extender Wall Plate Kit

Review: Amazon.com Customer Review

Quote:


By John A. Gorrilla (August 4, 2009)

I just got off the phone with Tripp Lite and am sorry to report the HDMI over Cat5/6 extender will not work through a receiver. No explanation from Tripp Lite other than it has to be plugged into a source directly.

There does not seem to be anything about this in the product literature unless I just missed it, but since I am sure I am not the only person who has dreamed up this configuration, I thought I would pass along the information.

Comments
Quote:


Timothy M. Vann says:
I had the same problem.
The tripplite would work with the PS3 plugged directly into the tripplite like this:
PS3-->Tripplite-->TV
but it would not work going through the receiver like this:
PS3-->Pioneer VSX 94 Receiver-->Tripplite-->TV

and

Quote:


J. Kolb says:
Hi, i was very excited by my recent discovery of a solution to this problem so I thought i would share. Apparently, alot of receivers do not comply to the HDMI specification requiring 5V of power over one of the pins. On a hunch, i bought this from amazon for $15 Cables To Go 42223 RapidRun Digital HDMI Voltage Inserter (Black). They are also sold on other websites.

This piece solved my problem and now I have pretty much flawless picture!

I had the problem on two receivers, yamaha 663 and brand new onkyo ht-rc180. It fixed it on both! Definitely a much cheaper solution that buying a new balun.

Please note, i also instead a viewhd 2 port powered splitter, which gave me a picture but not without significant "sparkling" of the picture. Using the voltage inserter, i get perfect picture, although every now and then I notice a 1 frame flicker of grey fuzz, which may very well be the source i have hooked up, but i havent connected any other devices yet.



Looks like I've convinced myself to buy one of those HDMI Voltage Inserters....


cheers,
..dane

 
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post #39 of 400 Old 09-21-2010, 08:26 PM
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You were right the first time Dane.. Many of the active HDMI baluns do indeed only require power on one side. Some aren't even particular about which side you power. Power is delivered to the other side via the UTP cable between.

Now, UTP cable is just copper. You can send power on it just fine so long as 1) the voltage isn't high enough to break down the insulation (it isn't), and 2) the current draw isn't so high, and/or the distance so long, for resistance to be an issue. We're talking about mA here. A couple watts at best. Not a problem for Cat5/6 at 24AWG.

In regards to HDMI signalling, the digital video data is in fact differential. That makes UTP media convenient. BUT, the problem is, differential signalling is a noise-reduction technique based on the assumption that noise will be in-phase on both signal pins, where the valid signal will be out-of-phase. On the receiver, noise is easily summed out.

As the frequency goes up, the benefits start to disappear. The frequency is starting to get high enough that differences in wire length can cause timing problems between the + and - signal. (2GHz has a 6" wavelength.) At the very least, there may be a few degrees phase difference which can blur the edges of the square waves in relation to one another. As I understand it, capacitance is higher in twisted pair (but I could be mistaken on that) which is detrimental to HF signals (and pulses are as HF as you can get!) Finally, your noise profile (inducted AC, etc.) is likely to be considerably lower in frequency than the signal component, so standard HP filtering would be trivial, making differential signalling pointless anyway.

I.E. It probably should've been shielded coax! But hey! We got DRM for free! *thumbs-up!*

DDC is +5V TTL. As you said, not differential. But being 5V logic, it has a ton of room to degrade. Your biggest problem here will be TTL lines bleeding into each other, or the video LVDS.

The HDMI Spec (http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/kb.aspx?c=6#42) specifies +5V at ~55mA should be available from the SOURCE component. I think the intention of the 5V line is to facilitate hotplug notification, but I haven't researched it thoroughly. At any rate, it's highly recommended to ALWAYS buy externally-powered HDMI repeaters/extenders. I've never seen a passive balun, or an inline-powered balun, that was worth a crap. The Audio Control is highly regarded it seems, but I don't have a local distributor, and they're one of those companies that doesn't want their products to be sold as a commodity. Otherwise, I'd have one already. Too bad for them.
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post #40 of 400 Old 09-24-2010, 10:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Indeed. The +5V voltage inserter did not help. Below is the message I sent to Ken at DVDO tonight:

Quote:


Hello Ken. I am sorry for the delayed response.

I have updated the DVDO Edge to firmware v1.5.1 and retested. No change. I ensured that the output frame rate was set to UNLOCK as well. Still no change. I have attached images of the DVDO settings, as well as a short MPEG-4 clip of the fan being turned on and off and showing the A/V glitch taking place just about every time (probably 90% of the time).

To summarize:

1) I have tried an HDMI Extender ("recovery device") both just before and just after the HDMI-CAT5E baluns. Glitch Occurs.

2) I have tried a +5V Voltage Inserter just before the HDMI-CAT5E baluns. Glitch Occurs.

3) I have tried the OPPO BDP-80 Bluray player straight to the baluns (bypassing DVDO EDGE). NO GLITCH

4) I have tried the TIVO S3 straight to the baluns (bypassing DVDO EDGE). NO GLITCH

5) I have tried an HDMI switch between the DVDO EDGE and the HDMI-CAT5E baluns. Glitch Occurs.

6) Setting everything back to normal (DVDO EDGE -> baluns -> Panasonic TC-P50G10). Glitch Occurs.

7) Tried with DVDO EDGE firmware 1.5 and 1.5.1. Glitch Occurs with BOTH FW Versions.

8) Disconnected ALL inputs to the DVDO EDGE and activated DVDO EDGE menu for visual content. Glitch Occurs.

9) Tried with both SD (480i) and HD (1080p) input feeds. Glitch Occurs.


Please tell me what other types of tests I can run to help you diagnose the problem. Alternatively if you would like to try swapping out my DVDO EDGE for another one, I would be willing to do that as well. This problem is quite annoying. While the ceiling fan doesn't get changed very often,--- the SAME glitch occurs when the Air Conditioning or Washing Machine kicks on/off, which is much more difficult to control when watching a movie!

I look forward to hearing back from you again soon.

thank you!
..dane


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post #41 of 400 Old 09-25-2010, 02:24 PM
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Ready to try a good HDMI cable yet?
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post #42 of 400 Old 09-25-2010, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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If you can tell me how to get a good HDMI cable run through a 1" conduit with 90deg turn joints, sure. Oh, and the cable has to be less than $50... Oh, and I need to fit one Ethernet and three RG6 coax through the same conduit as well....



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post #43 of 400 Old 09-26-2010, 02:52 PM
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Well, that sucks...Why in the world did you use a single 1" conduit for all that?
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post #44 of 400 Old 09-26-2010, 03:16 PM
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actually there is a solution: and it works well

HDMI over single RG6

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19076025

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post #45 of 400 Old 09-26-2010, 04:02 PM
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There are a number of solutions that will work. They are all over his $50 limit.
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post #46 of 400 Old 09-26-2010, 04:02 PM
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Did you try the voltage insertion box at the TV end? +5 comes from source end. Not much point putting it there unless the source current supply is just too weak for passive electronics in between. (Which could be.)
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post #47 of 400 Old 09-26-2010, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Well, that sucks...Why in the world did you use a single 1" conduit for all that?

Hahaha... because at the time I had no idea what I wanted to do. But I had a whole bunch of 1" conduit laying around in the garage and thought oh what the heck, I'll throw a conduit in there for later..

Well that later came when we finally ditched our 32" sony trinitron tube and upgraded to HD. I have plenty of speaker wiring around the place, but nothing run for future video use. The three RG6 is actually for the kids' game systems to run back into our video switch.. One Cat5e is for ethernet, one for IR blasting back into the AV rack. I knew once I started investigating that I couldn't pull an HDMI connector through the conduit (if I only knew then what I know now....), spent a couple weeks researching baluns and decided to pull four additional cat5e's through the conduit. two for a balun, and two to spare. Makes for one TIGHT conduit. But, it all fit.

If only there were HDMI over QUAD Cat5e... I'd gladly use my two spare for additional bandwidth!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

There are a number of solutions that will work. They are all over his $50 limit.

I could reasonably push to $100. But I couldn't reasonably spend over $100. I think I'd have to just accept it for what it is before spending much over $100.

At *some* point, the HDbaseT thing might actually become affordable. Then I could go with something like that...

I was talking with a semi-local installer (2 hrs away) who said to give him a call back after they returned from CEDIA. He says that they have always had hit-or-miss with ANY of their balun installs, and that up until now the baluns have had a relatively smaller audience. But that since more and more people are starting to use them (and have problems with them), that he is hopeful their reliability will begin increasing soon...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirNickity View Post

Did you try the voltage insertion box at the TV end? +5 comes from source end. Not much point putting it there unless the source current supply is just too weak for passive electronics in between. (Which could be.)

No, I didn't try that.. the receiver end (at the TV) is the end powered by the DC power adapter for the baluns, so I didn't imagine that end could need a +5V insertion. But hey, I'll try it before I go to bed. Easy enough to do tonight.




I did some more reading today and am going to open up the Arkview to determine exactly what chipset they're using (hopefully) and look up the datasheet on that chipset (hopefully) for a pinout. I read earlier today that most of these chipsets are not pinned out to nicely route to the standard Ethernet wiring diagrams, and that re-terminating your RJ45 connectors to match the chip's +/- differential signal pairing can help.... I'd love it to be that simple. First I'll break out the manual for the Arkview and see if it had a recommended pinout that I might have overlooked the first time I read through the manual...


cheers for tonight,
..dane

 
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post #48 of 400 Old 09-26-2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

At *some* point, the HDbaseT thing might actually become affordable. Then I could go with something like that...

Yeah, it sounds like promising technology. Unfortunately, there are only a handful of manufacturers using the Valens chipset (apparently in proprietary ways) and the price is about as high as their fiber solutions.

If it makes you feel any better, at least I won't be making the same mistakes when I do a similar run because of your experience and the experience of many others who have posted in these forums. But then, I will probably run into yet another problem...

Most important thing I think I have learned is to test everything before it goes in the walls. If it doesn't work outside, it isn't going to work any better inside, and maybe worse.
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post #49 of 400 Old 09-26-2010, 10:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Triple-post, by the way, for some odd reason.. each successive post had an added paragraph.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Yeah, it sounds like promising technology. Unfortunately, there are only a handful of manufacturers using the Valens chipset (apparently in proprietary ways) and the price is about as high as their fiber solutions.

I would not be against looking for an affordable single-coax solution... If I had run one of those 5 mini-coax cables instead of three discrete RG6QS cables, I could have used an hdmi-5coax solution. (though I don't know if they're any more affordable). As it is, I have essentially 4 RG6 coax cables available for use. The three currently used for the kids game systems (which I could put on MUCH less sensitive AV-Cat5e baluns running 240p/480i) plus the CATV cable that I'm currently not using (but had considered to bring digital audio back from the TV to the receiver).

I've got tons of cabling, pulled that way on purpose, thinking that surely I could make it work in spite of not being able to fit an HDMI cable through the conduit...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

If it makes you feel any better, at least I won't be making the same mistakes when I do a similar run because of your experience and the experience of many others who have posted in these forums. But then, I will probably run into yet another problem...

Well that would be a good offshoot of this thread I suppose! Selfishly I would rather this thread have a happier ending for myself, but if others gain from my problems, then I guess I can be happy with that.... and +1 to your last sentence.

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Most important thing I think I have learned is to test everything before it goes in the walls. If it doesn't work outside, it isn't going to work any better inside, and maybe worse.

Although I *do* admit to not pre-testing the Cat5e extenders, all of this testing shows that it would not have helped because at the time I did all my wiring, I did not yet have the DVDO Edge video processor, nor the Tivo S3. (While I had an idea I would be getting the DVDO Edge at some point, I did not know such a good deal on a used Tivo S3 would come about so quickly.) So at the time, I was running straight out of the Oppo bluray player. And testing continues to show that the bluray straight into the Arkview baluns poses no problems whatsoever.



Last update for tonight. The Arkview folks did a real nice pinout of their RJ45 connectors. Contrary to their box labeling (which I can only assume was done for the end-user to not get the cables mixed up), the four LVDS pairs are transmitted on pins 1/2 and 7/8 of each cable. In other words, video data is in fact on BOTH cables. +5V, CEC, HEC+/-, etc are also scattered between the cables---- but in intelligent ways. Their pinout means that both T568A or T568B will work equally well (or poorly, as in my case). Both cables have a GND pin also, which is good... Diagram below..



Second, putting the voltage inserter at the far (TV) end improved nothing.

Third, I hadn't thought of it before but I tried swapping my other two (currently unused) Ethernet cables around with the two I had been using. Swapping them around in about 4 different pairing combinations also improved nothing. At least I can say that they're behaving consistently.


cheers,
..dane
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post #50 of 400 Old 09-28-2010, 10:50 AM
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Well, this weekend I did some tinkering with my similar problem.

I used powered extenders on each end independently and on both ends at the same time. No change.

I do have a 75' (50' + 25') HDMI running to a TV in the living room, so I decided to see what would happen without the cat5 in the mix.

When connected to my 4x4 monoprice switch, the TV can not get a sync signal. Says the signal is too week and turns orange on the connection list of the TV. Take the 4x4 switch out of the mix and plug directly in to the Tivo and it works fine. Now at least the cat 5 plates get a signal to the TV, but they lose sync on occasion so I am going to blame the 4x4 switch. I ordered a replacement 4x4 switch from HDTVSuppply with an EDID lock and I am going to see if I have better luck. It could simply be an incompatability in the chips or a weak 4x4 splitter.

Anyway, that seems to be my weak link.
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post #51 of 400 Old 09-30-2010, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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bigDvette, please keep us posted on your progress...

I heard back from DVDO with the following:

Quote:


Dane,

Thank you for your report and for sending the video clips.
I am in discussion with the engineers here.

Regards,

Ken Nguyen
Technical Support

Followed by this reply a few days later:

Quote:


Dane,

Some questions from our engineer:

1) What is the state of the front panel LED when the problem happens? Does it stay solid blue or change color?

2) Can you hear if there are any loose parts inside the EDGE?

3) Can you try plugging EDGE into a different power outlet with an extension cord etc....? Can you try putting a power conditioner between the EDGE and AC outlet.

Thanks,

Ken Nguyen
Technical Support

I tested and sent this reply:

Quote:


Hello again Ken--

Before I reply, I wanted to pass along a note from my wife.. When I explained what I was doing by telling her that you guys were working with me and your engineers to figure out what's going on, she said, "Really? Well GOOD for THEM! Way to go for working with you to try and get this fixed!" She was very impressed. I am too. Kudos guys.

I tried everything you asked:

1) Good question, didn't think to check that before. SOMETIMES it remains blue the entire time. USUALLY, however, it seems to go "Blue-Red-Blue-Red-Blue" with the first RED being longer (1/2-sec?) than the second RED (1/4-sec?).

2) Definitely no loose parts inside..

3a) Tried an extension cord to another circuit-- no change (still glitches). Tried the same outlet the TV is on-- no change (still glitches). FWIW-- The original outlet the DVDO was plugged into is already on the same circuit as the TV, but was a different outlet. But changing to a different circuit had no effect.

3b) I must have forgotten that in my earlier email. I brought home a UPS from my office and tried the Edge plugged into the UPS. No change. I tried the TV plugged into the UPS -- no change. I tried both plugged into a UPS (I brought two home one night) -- no change.


Is there a "debug" mode I could enable on the Edge for question (1) that you asked, something that would dump an internal log via USB or something that I could send you?

Also, in case I didn't already mention it, I am using an Arkview HDMI-EXTC hdmi-over-cat5e balun set. Can be found here:
http://arkview.com/eshop/goods.php?id=25
and
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812797004


I would also recommend checking out the output stage of an OPPO BDP-80 bluray player. Since Oppo is a partner and the BDP-80 has been discontinued, they may be willing to let you take a look at it for comparison purposes..


thanks again, look forward to our next exchange...
..dane

Realizing now that a UPS isn't quite the same thing as a power conditioner. Unfortunately I don't have access to a power conditioner.

As mentioned above, I've been pleased with their level of effort thus far. Issue isn't resolved yet, but they're involved and being responsive. A good thing for sure.

cheers,
..dane

 
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post #52 of 400 Old 09-30-2010, 08:33 AM
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Interesting that the front panel LED is going from blue (signal received) to red (no signal received). Of course, precisely what that means is open to question.
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post #53 of 400 Old 09-30-2010, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Interesting that the front panel LED is going from blue (signal received) to red (no signal received). Of course, precisely what that means is open to question.

Well it could also mean the output sync is lost, right? Or there could even be some strange back-EMF event occuring that causes the internal DVDO guts to simply "get confused." I'm sure there are other possibilities also..

At least they're working with me! Makes me wonder if they have other customers reporting similar issues...

..dane

 
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post #54 of 400 Old 09-30-2010, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

I'm sure there are other possibilities also..

Could mean anything. I am sure it is microprocessor controlled.
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Makes me wonder if they have other customers reporting similar issues...

Almost a given IMHO...
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post #55 of 400 Old 10-05-2010, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

Well it could also mean the output sync is lost, right? Or there could even be some strange back-EMF event occuring that causes the internal DVDO guts to simply "get confused." I'm sure there are other possibilities also..

At least they're working with me! Makes me wonder if they have other customers reporting similar issues...

..dane

..Dane,

I am having the same problem as you have with HDMI extender over CAT5e. I have not seen any new post to this thread. Have you found a solution yet? If yes, please post how did you fix it. Thanks.
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post #56 of 400 Old 10-08-2010, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Well it's only been a week or so since my last post...

Anyway, I was extremely busy this past week at work and had no time to answer DVDO's next set of questions. I answered their email last night however. Problem remains unchanged, but DVDO has been responsive to my emails which I find encouraging.

Your PM to me on the same topic indicates that you have both an IOGEAR HDMI extender and SIIG HDMI extender, if I understand it correctly? Can you detail your setup configuration here, as well as any different kind of circumstances that you experience the problem? The more we can document in one place may be a good thing for others experiencing the same situation. Do you use a DVDO Edge, or just baluns?

cheers,
..dane

 
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post #57 of 400 Old 10-08-2010, 10:06 AM
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I am using IOGEAR HDMI extender to connect from my Pioneer receiver to my Sony plasma TV. Config below:

- Reveiver-> 60 ft CAT6 shield cable using HDMI extender -> Sony TV.

My TV is blank out every time I turn on the light switch or AC turn on.
I use Panamax for power condition but not help. Same problem
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post #58 of 400 Old 10-11-2010, 10:04 AM
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I am experiencing a simlar problem. I am running a tivo s3, ps3 and scientific atlanta cable box through a monoprice 4x4 matrix. Running monoprice hdmi/cat6 wall plates. I get black outs when certain lights turn on or the AC kicks on. Ill be deconstructing my setup to try and find the issue.
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post #59 of 400 Old 10-12-2010, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Still no resolution, but now I know it's bugging my wife pretty badly too. That ups the ante on getting it resolved... She came to me and said, "well, now I know to never do the laundry on 'delicate' while trying to watch a show. " The delicate cycle churns a bit then stops, sits a bit (soaking more) and churns just a tad more.. repeatedly.. every time the screen blanked out. Completely frustrated her (I wasn't home at the time).

I'm seeing a few products -- much more expensive than my $50 marker though:

MilesTek #90-12024
- Milestek.com has it for $400

Intelix DIGI-HD-COAX-S
- tselectronic.com has the pair for $460

Vanco HDMI over Single Coaxial Extender
- Ram Electronics has for $500

Audio Authority HXE-11
- Markertek has for $540

But I'm being pretty tempted by them.. I may even just sell the DVDO Edge to offset the cost. The MilesTek is apparently rated to 10Gbps..

Price is outrageous.. Still, I'm tempted... very tempted...

..dane

 
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post #60 of 400 Old 10-12-2010, 03:16 PM
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Audiodane,
I just found out an wireless HDMI from Brite View after I ordered Gefen HDMI extender for 599.00. It calls Airsync HD for 179.00. May be you can check it out to see if it work for you.
I will report if the Gefen work for me when I receive the box end of the week.
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