Anybody get LG AN-WL100 to work on non-LG TVs - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 75 Old 01-23-2013, 04:29 PM
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Anyone that has opened up the transmitter/base notice if there is a way to tap into the HDMI signal before it goes wireless?

I am thinking it would be great if an hdmi output jack could be wired in and disable/remove the wireless function. The receiver unit would not be used. Without the wireless receiver dongle active and paired, I've heard that the input selection buttons stay active on the transmitter box...

Then just run a long hdmi cable, or use in an entertainment center as an hdmi/component/vga switch to add more inputs to the TV
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post #62 of 75 Old 01-24-2013, 11:44 AM
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I think it is there in the Wireless Transmitter card. The main board to wireless is not HDMI. It is pure LVDS and I2S for audio. The mainboard is designed for fixing inside LG' TV's. The only thing that it will have in addition is Tuner(ATSC/PAL/SECAM depending on region). But the chipset in the wireless card has many inputs and outputs and I think one of them in HDMI and there are couple of headers which you can try. But we don't know the pinout and the only way is reverse engineering.
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post #63 of 75 Old 01-25-2013, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeevasv View Post

I think it is there in the Wireless Transmitter card. The main board to wireless is not HDMI. It is pure LVDS and I2S for audio. The mainboard is designed for fixing inside LG' TV's. The only thing that it will have in addition is Tuner(ATSC/PAL/SECAM depending on region). But the chipset in the wireless card has many inputs and outputs and I think one of them in HDMI and there are couple of headers which you can try. But we don't know the pinout and the only way is reverse engineering.

Wonder if the ATSC tuner could be tapped into...? I have an LG DVD Player/HDTV tuner so it's not something I will probably investigate. As for finding the pinouts, they might be in the patent papers.

Would be interesting if someone with an LG tv could take the mainboard from this and fix their tv lol
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post #64 of 75 Old 01-26-2013, 09:08 AM
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Actually, further testing shows that the dongle powers up the Base Station when it powers up. So don't need a power on command, which means one less thing for me to worry about.

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post #65 of 75 Old 02-21-2013, 01:35 PM
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I have frustrating situation. Things work fine between my directv box and a VIZIO LCD tv. I followed Ryan's hack of cutting the dongle's 20 pin cable and feeding 18V DC to the red and black.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDIQFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fplus.google.com%2Fu%2F1%2F101948760925084043079%2Fposts%2FbtdqMZqCzEA&ei=RoMmUaCTEMng2gXPo4HADw&usg=AFQjCNE3MvRuOSj_0yA7B7F7u2FMa_ALIw&sig2=1sl6RhmseWXiLCTV5vU48w&bvm=bv.42768644,bs.1,d.b2I

What I really wanted was to feed the signal from the dongle to my Marantz receiver and then to my home theater projector. I got a video but no audio. The receiver display which would indicate the type of audio signal received shows nothing. I have swapped out cables etc with no joy. For testing none exceeded 6 ft. I have read others having problems when feeding to an amplifier. Am I out of luck? Does anyone have any suggestions.
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post #66 of 75 Old 02-25-2013, 05:13 PM
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Next week I can try hooking mine up to my receiver and see if it works correctly.

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post #67 of 75 Old 02-26-2013, 10:23 AM
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Thanks, it seems sometimes its very picky. With a denon avr790 receiver I get audio but the wretched green picture that won't reset by power cycling. I wish there was a way to prevent that. The denon shows a 2/0/0 pcm audio signal so I guess either the Marantz receiver doesn't send the right EDID and so no audio is passed or it is confused by the audio part coming from the wireless dongle and cant decode it. I looking to see if one of the boxes that extracts audio strippers from the hdmi signal sheds any light. So far it has a WAF of close to zero eek.gif
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post #68 of 75 Old 02-28-2013, 05:47 PM
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First of all, thank you for this info to everyone, especially Mr. Mckinney. I have two complete units, one on an LG LED and the second on an RCA LCD. Both 1080p. If i turn off the rca and then back on, instantly i get green wash on the picture. i've exchanged the units and the wires so that the only variable is the tv and or some weird voodoo in the air. the rca also does not completely fill the whole screen as there is an inch on the right side without picture. the remedy as stated by previous, is to power cycle the dong or the tx box.
the LG tv works like a champ without any issues with picture. Both tvs are about the same distance from their txs. i have also swaped power supplies. I therefore theorize the rca has an issue with the LG proprietary signal that may change something when it realizes that the tv has been turned off, or that changes something (signal) once it has initialized contact with the rx. Either way, i have to always power cycle if i turn the tv off, even for a second, but once i get good picture, can leave it without issue.
Thanks again to everyone and i welcome any solution.

Long story longer....
I used to have OTA set up when you could get free dish. I live in a remote area and only dish and verizon exist. My daughter is handicapped and stays at home. part of her joy are the kid's channels which she watches on and off during the day. I couldnt use OTA anymore after they fixed the loophole (or did they?) so i got verizon. they charge to use their box and you cannot get a channel without it. so..... you basically rent boxes per tv and cha-ching, hundreds a year just on boxes when your tv is quite capable of dtv channels. to remedy this, i sought out using a splitter and wireless technology to supply both tvs,and a verizon box that costs $15 a month. The good news is that it works thanks to all the info i sponged up in this post. The so-so news is that i have to power cycle one of the tvs everytime i turn it on to get the green-wash out and get a clear picture again. My daughter is happy regardless of which tv shes watching. The bad news: there realy isnt any. $20 wireless devices. paid once for it and it paid itself off in less than two months of use. devices that did semi-similar were over $100. I tinker, i love electronics and have a basic understanding of them. I can solder, and build basic devices and know a little programming. I am very grateful for people like you whom post to help others with little to no reward. thank you once again.
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post #69 of 75 Old 03-11-2013, 07:59 PM
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I've only got one problem with this setup. I have a 39" TCL 1080P LED HD TV and no matter what source or input I run through the LG wireless transmitter, I'm left with 1" of unused screen on the right side of the TV no matter what display setting I use on the TV.

Anyone else with similar problems?
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post #70 of 75 Old 03-11-2013, 10:29 PM
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It was working great with a Panasonic LED 47" for a month but I had to move it to another place. It stopped working since then. Wireless indicator on the base blinking and never finds the dongle. Dongle was/is powered by an HP laptop power supply 19V 3A. Any idea how it can be fixed?
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post #71 of 75 Old 05-04-2013, 02:02 PM
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For those with overscan issues, send it the serial string "kc 01 09\x0D" for a 1:1 scan rate.

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post #72 of 75 Old 08-01-2013, 01:29 AM
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Hi Everyone,
I've been trying for the past hour to send commands to my AN-WL100 to no avail. I'm on a Mac, and first I used HyperTerminal though Parallels on Windows 8 using a USB to Serial cable, along with a 3.5mm to serial cable I got on Amazon. No matter which baud rate I used, or which command I sent, I wouldn't get anything in return.

Next I tried using CoolTerm, which is an OS X native serial terminal application. I got the same results. Could someone please verify my settings and make sure I didn't miss something? I really just want to send the kc 01 09\x0D command, to try and fix the overscan issue.

Thank you!

--Wes

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post #73 of 75 Old 09-13-2013, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weslebsack View Post

Hi Everyone,
I've been trying for the past hour to send commands to my AN-WL100 to no avail. I'm on a Mac, and first I used HyperTerminal though Parallels on Windows 8 using a USB to Serial cable, along with a 3.5mm to serial cable I got on Amazon. No matter which baud rate I used, or which command I sent, I wouldn't get anything in return.

Next I tried using CoolTerm, which is an OS X native serial terminal application. I got the same results. Could someone please verify my settings and make sure I didn't miss something? I really just want to send the kc 01 09\x0D command, to try and fix the overscan issue.

Thank you!

--Wes


something tells me the random cable you bought on amazon isnt wired correctly.
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post #74 of 75 Old 11-04-2013, 05:39 PM
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great to see this thread still going , i would agree that its most likely a bad serial cable , have you tried the cable on another device too proof it ?
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post #75 of 75 Old 05-04-2014, 04:03 AM
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Hi I havent yet hooked up my serial but im wondering if theres anyway to change the resolution ? Maybe via the linux shell ? I need to change from 1080p to 1080i there must be an init script that sets the resolution or something ?
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