As long as this is the XtraLink2, which has the 291-00 receiver (with a 3.5mm plug), not the coax F-connector one (the ChannelPlus 2133). The Xantech XtraLink is a 12V IR device, while others are 5V and therefore not compatible.
IIRC, I used the XtraLink2 and replaced the tabletop receiver with a DinkyLink for an LCD display (since the tabletop 291 got too much interference from the backlight).
I would have just plugged in the 5v receiver from monoprice since I didn't know why I shouldn't.
I think Xantech should show up today.
I will have that for one room.
But I had bought the ir injectors and power supplies separately for the other rooms because I thought I could use the monoprice receiver. In the long run, I guess I could either return the extra ir injectors to smarthome and/or just get the big bulky receiver.
One room should be fine to make my wife happy for now. We are transitioning away from nextgeneration because it was just too flaky.
I did find some xantech dlinky stuff on ebay but now I'm scared to buy it because it might not work.
Since I already have 2 emitters that came with the original Xantech IR over coax kit, can I just use a headphone jack splitter to use the 4 that I get with the 2 duals and the original 2?
Will this lame headphone jack solution work?
Probably be fine. You're just cutting down the available power to each emitter, so they may be more finicky. Place them correctly and use covers over them to maximize the amount of light transmitted to the sensors.
If you run into problems, then yeah, run to a connecting block with its own power supply and a bunch of emitter outputs. Not a big deal, and about $30 in parts.
Jeff's suggestions could very possibly work, but my experience has been that there is a very finite current amount from any xantech connecting block, usually you can get by with up to two double head emitters on their standard 4 output blocks, but my guess would be (especially since Xantech also said so) is that you are going to need a connecting block and power supply to expand that system.
Ok. That will be next week's question. How to get a bare wire.
I don't know anything about this stuff. So for me, if a connecting block took a 3.5mm cable into it, I would choose that over bare wire.
Thanks for the help.
Right now the more pressing need I guess is that I just need it to control the monoprice hdmi switch which seems inconsistent.Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. If I wanted that, I would go back to nextgeneration (I know other people have it work flawlessly but not me).
Covering over the emitter once placed in front of the equipment (easiest cover is a piece of black electrical tape) helps reduce interference from outside light.
I'm having trouble right now with the xantech emitters working my monoprice hdmi switch.
It's not the emitter. Try it with just single emitter attached to see if it's a signal strength problem first. And make sure you've located the emitter in front of the IR sensor on the switch. You may also have to try moving the emitter away from the sensor - some of them get flooded with too much signal, too.
How to get a bare wire.
Cut the end off a 3.5mm cable and identify the wire colors going to the 2 conductors - then hook those up to the connecting block input. Xantech will have all the pinout descriptions.
If the wires in a cable you have laying around are too fine to work with, you can make one with some RadioShack parts.
The receiver in the xtralink kit is not LCD or plasma friendly .. they designed that kit back when CRTs were the major type of TV out there and never updated it to included one of the LCD/Plasma proof receivers
Those appear to be the older models and they might work just fine, the newer LCD/Plasma product has had some improvements as far as compatibility with certain sat and cable boxes. I am not one to screw around to save a few bucks and risk an upset customer so personally I would go with the DL85 which is the newest model