How do I send my DirectTV signal to two TVs over 100' apart? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 02-08-2012, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I am trying to split the signal from my DirectTV satellite receiver to two different TVs. I have a TV in the bathroom that I don't want to buy another receiver for. What is the best way to get the signal there with minimal audio/visual degradation? Should I use HDMI, RCA, splitter, booster? I wouldn't say that money isn't an issue, but I am willing to spend a little bit if it will get me the results I want. Not sound lazy(I'm just ignorant when it comes to this stuff), but if someone could tell me exactly what I need to get this setup I would really appreciate it. Let me know if you need anymore info. Thanks in advance for the help.
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post #2 of 18 Old 02-08-2012, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green091 View Post

I am trying to split the signal from my DirectTV satellite receiver to two different TVs. I have a TV in the bathroom that I don't want to buy another receiver for. What is the best way to get the signal there with minimal audio/visual degradation? Should I use HDMI, RCA, splitter, booster? I wouldn't say that money isn't an issue, but I am willing to spend a little bit if it will get me the results I want. Not sound lazy(I'm just ignorant when it comes to this stuff), but if someone could tell me exactly what I need to get this setup I would really appreciate it. Let me know if you need anymore info. Thanks in advance for the help.

I like to avoid set-top box fees as well, but between cables, installation (time/debug) and the cost of a decent HDMI repeater, your best solution is to just get another D* receiver. It should be free, and the new HD boxes are tiny.

At 100' without the D* receiver I'd only recommend an HDBaseT solution -Monoprice has one just under $180 - which also includes the IR repeaters.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

But at $7/month for a 2nd receiver, it will take 2 years to pay that off - and also, you *could* watch a different show in the bathroom.

Jeff

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post #3 of 18 Old 02-08-2012, 09:03 PM
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post #4 of 18 Old 02-09-2012, 04:31 AM
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I run the tv close to the receiver on hdmi and the far one on component and digital audio
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post #5 of 18 Old 02-09-2012, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jkbs View Post

I run the tv close to the receiver on hdmi and the far one on component and digital audio

Exactly. Component baluns can be had for around 50 bucks. Then all you will need is an RF remote to control the box. I have 3 DTV boxes that are shared to a 4x8 component matrix switch and then use CE-labs baluns to send the HD component video and digital audio to each zone. Works really well and I use the HDMI outputs for the theater.

jautor does have a good point though that at 5 bucks a month it will take a long time to pay any solution off. The good news though is that even if you drop DTV you will have a solution that should work with other cable/sat providers.
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-09-2012, 06:24 AM
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I've looked at doing the hdmi over cat6, but decided not to. I came close to buying something from Octava that sends the hdmi signal AND IR over a network cable. In the end, I decided to buy a 50' HDMI and a Xantech IR system. I haven't hooked it up yet, so I can't comment on how well it works. I decided not to go the Octava route because I was a little iffy about the cable and connections. I've heard it's pretty finicky to use good cable and terminate the connections properly.

I would say that if you have the room on the multiswitch, go ahead with another receiver. If you don't have the room, or really want to go the hdmi extension route, do that. Also, if you have to run new coax, make sure you have a good compression crimper and use dtv approved stuff, or else by a premade cable.

Good Luck!
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-09-2012, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adk highlander View Post

Exactly. Component baluns can be had for around 50 bucks. Then all you will need is an RF remote to control the box. I have 3 DTV boxes that are shared to a 4x8 component matrix switch and then use CE-labs baluns to send the HD component video and digital audio to each zone. Works really well and I use the HDMI outputs for the theater.

jautor does have a good point though that at 5 bucks a month it will take a long time to pay any solution off. The good news though is that even if you drop DTV you will have a solution that should work with other cable/sat providers.

Gee, and I'm usually the one mentioning the component video option...

Yeah, there's a Tripp Lite component balun with stereo audio for ~$60:

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-B13...8802944&sr=8-3

Couple that with a DirecTV RF remote for ~$30 and that would work. Caveat on the RF remote (from D*) is that the receiver works with only IR or RF, not both. So the remote in the main room also has to be a D* RF remote (if it's not already - look for the FCC sticker on the bottom of the remote). But for a total solution around $100, that's got a decent payback vs. the additional receiver. Depends if the OP assigns any value to being able to watch a different program on the 2nd TV or not...

Component also avoids the nasty HDMI resolution/audio 'common denominator' issues - which you'd likely encounter with a (presumed) small 720p set in the bathroom.


Jeff

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post #8 of 18 Old 02-09-2012, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Caveat on the RF remote (from D*) is that the receiver works with only IR or RF, not both. So the remote in the main room also has to be a D* RF remote (if it's not already - look for the FCC sticker on the bottom of the remote). But for a total solution around $100, that's got a decent payback vs. the additional receiver. Depends if the OP assigns any value to being able to watch a different program on the 2nd TV or not...Jeff

There is a way to get around this isssue. A Next Gen Extender. You can leave your D* receiver in IR mode and this device kinda changes your IR remote (either a D* remote or universal) to work like an RF remote.

Jay
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-09-2012, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jerndl View Post

There is a way to get around this isssue. A Next Gen Extender. You can leave your D* receiver in IR mode and this device kinda changes your IR remote (either a D* remote or universal) to work like an RF remote.

Jay

Yep, the NextGen is the easiest/cheapest way to get RF, if changing the D* to RF-only mode is a problem.

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post #10 of 18 Old 02-09-2012, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green091 View Post

I am trying to split the signal from my DirectTV satellite receiver to two different TVs. I have a TV in the bathroom that I don't want to buy another receiver for.

What cabling do you have in the bathroom now? How hard is it going to be to pull new cable if you don't have the right stuff? Might make a difference in what we recommend.

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post #11 of 18 Old 02-10-2012, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Imageek2 View Post

What cabling do you have in the bathroom now? How hard is it going to be to pull new cable if you don't have the right stuff? Might make a difference in what we recommend.

I have an HDMI cable ran from the bedroom to the bathroom, but it would be very easy to run something else.
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-10-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Green091 View Post

I have an HDMI cable ran from the bedroom to the bathroom, but it would be very easy to run something else.

If you've already got an HDMI cable run, what's the issue? An HDMI splitter would seem like a no-brainer... Have you tried hooking the D* receiver to that cable? Is it really a 100' HDMI cable? I'd try that before purchasing anything. Here's a cheap HDMI powered splitter:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

You still need to figure out the remote control. Either the NextGen or the D* RF solution would be good choices.

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post #13 of 18 Old 02-14-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Yeah, there's a Tripp Lite component balun with stereo audio for ~$60:

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-B13...8802944&sr=8-3


Component also avoids the nasty HDMI resolution/audio 'common denominator' issues - which you'd likely encounter with a (presumed) small 720p set in the bathroom.


Jeff

Hey Jeff, I've been considering those component baluns instead of an HDMI matrix to feed a bedroom TV....I've decided it's not worth messing with my HDMI feeds to my main HT for the reasons you mention here.

Currently, I use an RF modulator to carry signals from two DirecTV HD DRVs and a Roku box to the analog TV in my bedroom and it works great....all control is done with a Next Gen remote extender which also works great.

Anyway, at some point I'll be replacing the old CRT with a small LCD, hence the need/desire for a better than 480i/p signal. As I said, I'm considering the Tripp lite baluns which seem to have mixed reviews and therefore I'm also considering the Muxlab component video with analog audio baluns that go for around twice the cost of the Tripp Lite for a pair.

So, based on your experience, would you recommend one over the other? Thanks.

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post #14 of 18 Old 02-14-2012, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Vin View Post

Anyway, at some point I'll be replacing the old CRT with a small LCD, hence the need/desire for a better than 480i/p signal. As I said, I'm considering the Tripp lite baluns which seem to have mixed reviews and therefore I'm also considering the Muxlab component video with analog audio baluns that go for around twice the cost of the Tripp Lite for a pair.

So, based on your experience, would you recommend one over the other?

MuxLab makes quality stuff, so no complaints there. I haven't used the TrippLite baluns, but they are interesting because they do component + analog stereo on one cat5 cable. But looks like MuxLab has a similar solution now, too. I'd certainly trust MuxLab to do it correctly (but who knows, they may share the same internal design).

I've used the CELabs CAT5TX baluns myself, which use 2 cables (although you can use one if you only need mono analog audio) - which is still a good solution if you want to run to more than one room (since the TX unit is set up for 2 receivers).

Jeff

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post #15 of 18 Old 02-27-2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post

MuxLab makes quality stuff, so no complaints there. I haven't used the TrippLite baluns, but they are interesting because they do component + analog stereo on one cat5 cable. But looks like MuxLab has a similar solution now, too. I'd certainly trust MuxLab to do it correctly (but who knows, they may share the same internal design).

I've used the CELabs CAT5TX baluns myself, which use 2 cables (although you can use one if you only need mono analog audio) - which is still a good solution if you want to run to more than one room (since the TX unit is set up for 2 receivers).

Jeff

I tried the TrippLite component video/analog audio baluns but got no signal at all to the remote TV over ~75' of ethernet. As a test, I connected a 5' ethernet cable and got picture and sound with a scrolling horizontal line, swapped the cable for another and saw no improvement.

Anyway, they're on their way back to Amazon, will try the HDMI over single ethernet baluns as I originally planned but decided against due to possible matrixing issues but will avoid that by switching all my feeds to the local TV/AVR from HDMI to component video and optical/coaxial audio thus freeing up the HDMI outputs of those devices for the remote TV location. Will let you know how it goes.

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post #16 of 18 Old 03-05-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Vin View Post


Anyway, they're on their way back to Amazon, will try the HDMI over single ethernet baluns....

Will let you know how it goes.

These did not work for me at 75', i.e., no signal. For the record, a short patch cable did yield a very good picture with audio.

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post #17 of 18 Old 03-05-2012, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Vin View Post

These did not work for me at 75', i.e., no signal. For the record, a short patch cable did yield a very good picture with audio.

If you've tried two different products on that cable, and neither worked, have you tested that cable to ensure it's both good and wired correctly? That component balun should have given you something...

Jeff

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post #18 of 18 Old 03-05-2012, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post

If you've tried two different products on that cable, and neither worked, have you tested that cable to ensure it's both good and wired correctly? That component balun should have given you something...

Jeff

Yes, the Cat6 cable is in use and works fine. I've been using it as a means of testing these baluns. Based on the mixed reviews of both products that I tried, I'm really not terribly surprised that neither one worked...live and learn. Amazon's return policy makes the process risk free, no harm, no foul.

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