Whats the most common way to wire inside a wall? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I've never run wires in a wall before and I plan on doing two tvs in my new house. Problem is I dont know which direction to go. My first tv is in the bedroom. Very simple. Will probably be able to drop the wires straight down through the wall without going through studs. My other tv however is going above a fireplace. Now before we go any further.. I dont need anybody telling me why tv above a fireplace is bad and they're whole arguement on why. Ive measured, researched, measured some more and done a lot of thinking about this and im resolved its what I'm doing. SO as i was saying.. the wires for tv above the fireplace will have to travel through a stud or two. I really just want to know which raceways I need to buy (if any) and which wall plates and anything else i need.

I was looking at this:
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/wiring/raceways/

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage

But I dont see how you connect the raceway to the plates. Im pretty certain this wall is load bearing where the fireplace is. And I would love to have a setup thatll future proof me, being able to add or remove wires as I please.
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post #2 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 10:33 AM
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Are you talking Cat6 and speaker wire? Is this for a new house that you're building? If so, you don't need to put wire inside the conduit but it is a good idea to run an empty conduit for future proofing.

At the wall you have a few options. You can either use the terminated cables wall plates you linked to or you can terminate at a plate with keystone jacks. I did the latter and connected HDMI extenders to the wall plate with patch cables. No problem so far.

Also, you may want to consider a recessed box for the above fireplace install like this one from Amazon. It'll give you lots more room to work with behind the TV which is especially good if you want to go with a very low profile mount.
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post #3 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Well were talking mainly hdmis, maybe power cord if I get lazy and ignore code, optical and possibly speaker wire. So would I have to run several raceways? If so how would I get them all to merge so everything pops outta the wall at one spot? The house is just new to me.

Im not sure I understand what you did. And the mount is articulating
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post #4 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 11:21 AM
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Ah ok that makes things a bit clearer. What I meant by the Cat6 is that its easier and cheaper to run category cable and then use extenders at either end to convert and carry the HDMI signal rather than run in-wall HDMI cable. Extenders using the HDBaseT standard use one cable which can also pass ethernet and infra-red control signals. There are plenty of other, cheaper solutions using 2 cables as well. If you do this, you just terminate the cable at the wall like a regular telephone jack only you'll want 3 or more to each TV location I would think.

Attached is what my setup looks like. The far left recessed plate has 3x cat5e keystone jacks + an R6G. The center one has speaker plugs and then the rest is power.
LL
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post #5 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow I Just read your previous post and got so happy. So your saying with something like your setup, you just run a cat6 as a bridge? Then connect it to a couple plates like that right?
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post #6 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Where do you plug in your hdmi? I don't see a spot
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post #7 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 01:08 PM
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I use one of these from monoprice. The HDMI plugs into it at either end. At the tv, its connected to 2 patch cables and then to the wall. In the media closet, I terminated the Cat5e and plugged the lines directly into the extender.
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post #8 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 01:22 PM
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The two benefits of using the recessed outlet combo (the Arlington TVBox) is that you meet code for electrical (you don't want to have issues with insurance folks or resale) and it gives you space to hide adapters/baluns like the HDMI extenders ljo000 mentions.

And yes, it's better to go with category cable instead of HDMI (only - running both would be fine), as the HDMI cable is much more likely to be obsolete before you move.

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post #9 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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You guys confuse me
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post #10 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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So the extender is just for one hdmi?? What if I had four hdmi? And cat6 doesn't mess with the quality? What about when hdmi is old technology? And how does that recessed box all hook up? Just trying to makeI sure I understand it all. I don't want any regrets after this install, sorry if im a repetitive noob
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post #11 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 02:01 PM
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If you're going to hire someone to run power (doing the install 'to code') then that person can also run cat6 x 3, hdmi, RG6, and any other cables you want.

You'll use the hdmi now.

You'll use cat6 x 2 for a future extender, when the current hdmi cable becomes obsolete.

The extra cat6 is for connecting your TV to your LAN, for online services and firmware updates.

Retrofitting conduit is usually very destructive. I'd skip it.

Doing some drywall repair is cheap. Drilling through studs blindly can be extremely expensive.

If you want to DIY, post some pictures, for additional input from the group.

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post #12 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 02:04 PM
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Read the manuals for the mount and the TV box. Research more online. Figure out every detail before buying anything.

You would only have 1 hdmi cable to that TV.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #13 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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This is it.. so I guess I need to run stuff through the wall from above the fp down and to the right. Ill be purchasing a new audio shelf.

Attachment 238760
LL
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post #14 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

If you're going to hire someone to run power (doing the install 'to code') then that person can also run cat6 x 3, hdmi, RG6, and any other cables you want.

You'll use the hdmi now.

You'll use cat6 x 2 for a future extender, when the current hdmi cable becomes obsolete.

The extra cat6 is for connecting your TV to your LAN, for online services and firmware updates.

Retrofitting conduit is usually very destructive. I'd skip it.

Doing some drywall repair is cheap. Drilling through studs blindly can be extremely expensive.

If you want to DIY, post some pictures, for additional input from the group.

See that's my problem.. I agree. I think drilling into studs and running conduit is destructive and a little scary tbh. But I don't see any other way to fit my needs. That's why I created this post. For you more experienced in this to help me out and i learn more in the process. Right now I have a Directv box and xbox running hdmi to my tv and optical from tv to receiver. Maybe a bit backwards? My receiver has no hdmi inputs. That's why that extender would feel useless. Everything here is connected to wifi upstairs so the cat6 doesn't sound like it'd do me good. I am thinking of picking up a ps3 which would mean another hdmi. Maybe I should get a receiver that'll support multiple hdmi?
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post #15 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Also, to sorta get back to the original question, it seems A LOT of people run conduit and since I'm still leaning towards that, how does the conduit work exactly? Where does it connect?
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post #16 of 25 Old 02-28-2012, 11:06 PM
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Since you have to go sideways, please, please, please hire a pro.


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post #17 of 25 Old 02-29-2012, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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How much would that cost I wonder
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post #18 of 25 Old 02-29-2012, 10:06 AM
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Call and ask. Many, if not most, will give you a quote for free.

Is there an attic above this room? Accessible?


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post #19 of 25 Old 02-29-2012, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theben07 View Post

maybe power cord if I get lazy and ignore code,

This is a really, really bad idea.

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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #20 of 25 Old 02-29-2012, 10:32 AM
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Conduit would be for new construction, or a complete gut to studs. Skip the conduit, and futureproof by adding the correct cables now.

If you have an attic above that room, you would go up into the attic with the cables (from the equipment location), and back down at the fireplace. No blind drilling across studs required.

I'm guessing the fireplace has extra space around it, allowing you to come up from below (if crawlspace below), passing the cables behind or to the side of the fireplace.

An easy way to do this would be to cut holes in your drywall, at each of the studs you want to cross, and drill holes in the studs. Cables pass through studs to the TVBox cutout, above the fireplace. Patching and painting drywall is cheap, and super easy if you hire someone to do it.

But the easiest way for you would be to use the attic. From the attic, you drill through the top plate of the wall, into the stud bay, at both the TV and equipment locations. Fiberglass rods help you pull the cables.

Wire the TVBox with line voltage Romex properly. Again, if you hire an electrician for the outlet, then he can do the additional cables also. The easiest way to add cables is to punch through the drywall - so don't be surprised if that's what he does. Running cables into attic or crawl may cost you extra.

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post #21 of 25 Old 02-29-2012, 10:36 AM
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I think most electricians would charge $100 to add that outlet. Plus the cost of drywall repairs, the TV Box, and extra for additional cables (cost of cables and installation). You won't be terminating the category cables until you need them. But, you may want to purchase a terminated category cable (or learn how to terminate) for your LAN connnection to the TV, if needed in the near future. Buy in-wall rated cables.

I'm guessing, ballpark, $250 to have the TV junction box installed.

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post #22 of 25 Old 02-29-2012, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifor View Post

Call and ask. Many, if not most, will give you a quote for free.

Is there an attic above this room? Accessible?

No
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post #23 of 25 Old 03-02-2012, 03:20 AM
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Hey - for these recessed outlets do they really satisfy code? Are they tamper resistant? This is being required for the home I am building in FL. I wanted to use the recessed outlets, but my electrician is telling me they are not tamper resistant.
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post #24 of 25 Old 03-02-2012, 03:50 AM
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Electrician is looking for an excuse to avoid the job. Find another.

The outlets need to be tamper resistant. The TVBox is just a junction box, it doesn't come with outlets.

A difficult client is often the reason to avoid a job like this. Don't be that guy.

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post #25 of 25 Old 03-02-2012, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulKohler View Post

Hey - for these recessed outlets do they really satisfy code? Are they tamper resistant? This is being required for the home I am building in FL. I wanted to use the recessed outlets, but my electrician is telling me they are not tamper resistant.

The recessed outlets definitely pass code in MA. They're in my new build house which passed inspection less than 1 month ago.
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