Looking for Long Run HDMI with 3D...HDMI over Cat5/6? HDMI over Coax? HDMI Wiring? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 04-23-2012, 10:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm moving into a new house. It's setup so that the TV is in the front of the living room and the units are in the back of the room. It requires about a 50 foot run through the walls/ceilings, which I don't have access to. It was built in 2004, and the wiring was put in before the drywall was added. It currently has the following cables wired:

DVI
VGA
2 Coax
1 Cat 5 cable


I'd prefer to wire a redmere HDMI cable, but I can't figure out how to do so, and the cables won't move/slide at all for feeding purposes.

What are my options if I want 3D and other high end HDMI requirements?

HDMI over Cat 5? It's only cat 5, will it be stable enough?

EDIT: It is actually cat5e, whether it's the same cable poking through on both ends is another story.

HDMI over coax? Will this cover the requirements?
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post #2 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 01:50 AM
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You *might* be able to get away with putting DVI to HDMI adapters on both ends. I know it would carry video and audio, but I'm not sure the distance would support high bandwidth, 3D applications.

Otherwise, I think HD-BaseT products would be your best bet. It runs over cat 5e or cat 6, and you should be able to get some that support 3D.

EDIT: just saw its not 5e. You could try it anyway, since the distance is short, but I think the HD-BaseT products won't operate great over regular 5.

Is there any attic or crawl space you can access and try running new wire? I'm thinking that's your best bet.
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post #3 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 05:56 AM
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If its all in the same room, you could try a wireless solution. Otherwise you'd be best off running new Cat6 wire (I assume that you really mean Cat5 and not Cat5e).
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post #4 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, it's Cat5 I think, not Cat5e. Also, wireless isn't a good option. There's no attic above and I really have no idea how to wire anything new since the existing stuff was put in before drywall and i can't get them to budge at all.
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post #5 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Can DVI support 1080P and 3D if I put hdmi converters on each end?
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post #6 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 12:57 PM
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I think you may have to have someone come in and run some CAT6 for you or one of the "active" HDMI cables that support long runs.

Anything over 25 feet on a passive cable is problematic. In many cases it will work but you just have to try - I've done 35 feet on more then one install but 50 feet - I just don't know if that would work.

I did a quick check for HDMI over COAX but didn't see anything that did 3D.

Do you have can lights in the ceiling?

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post #7 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcwilt View Post

I think you may have to have someone come in and run some CAT6 for you or one of the "active" HDMI cables that support long runs.

Anything over 25 feet on a passive cable is problematic. In many cases it will work but you just have to try - I've done 35 feet on more then one install but 50 feet - I just don't know if that would work.

I did a quick check for HDMI over COAX but didn't see anything that did 3D.

Do you have can lights in the ceiling?

Yes, which gives me an idea that might make wiring not that difficult. I can use the lights and perhaps where the ceiling fan is to bring it to each end.
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post #8 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 05:46 PM
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No basement access? Can you post up some pics of where the TV is where you need the HDMI terminated at? It'd be able to give us a better idea how hard it would be to fish new wires through the wall.

I personally am running a passive 50fter right now. I'm not doing 3D though, just 1080p.
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post #9 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcwilt View Post

I think you may have to have someone come in and run some CAT6 for you or one of the "active" HDMI cables that support long runs.

Anything over 25 feet on a passive cable is problematic. In many cases it will work but you just have to try - I've done 35 feet on more then one install but 50 feet - I just don't know if that would work.

I did a quick check for HDMI over COAX but didn't see anything that did 3D.

Do you have can lights in the ceiling?

Here are two photos. Yes, the floor colors are different as I've had the floors stained since I bought the place (the second photo was while the previous owners still lived in it). I also plan on painting all the walls as well (so no more red walls).

The first photo is of the front of the room where the TV will hang.




The second photo is of the back of the room where the units are.


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post #10 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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There is access below since there's a garage below...
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post #11 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 06:32 PM
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Hmm fireplace, I didn't take that into considercation. Can you tell if the wires run through the ceiling or through the garage? Does your garage have an open ceiling? Do you have a chimney back there? I hope I'm not overwhelming you with questions. My first approach is to run new wires since drywall patching isn't hard (especially if you're going to repaint anyway). At the very least you can run 1080p via the coax (I haven't seen 3d done that way though).
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post #12 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm pretty sure they go up, however, I can't see where exactly.
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post #13 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 07:10 PM
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How willing are you to open up some sheetrock? You'd definitely have to open the corner where you're wall and ceiling meet above the TV. Then from there it depends on which way your joists run and how much insulation gets in your way.

(Beautiful house btw!)
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post #14 of 24 Old 04-24-2012, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 View Post

How willing are you to open up some sheetrock? You'd definitely have to open the corner where you're wall and ceiling meet above the TV. Then from there it depends on which way your joists run and how much insulation gets in your way.

(Beautiful house btw!)

Thanks!

I'd rather not open the wall, but will do it if I have to.

I just got back from taking a look at the wiring in the house, and this is what I've gathered, good and bad:


The blue cable that I think runs from front to back is actually cat5E not cat5! However, I'm not certain it runs from the front to the back until I test it. There is another white cat5e cable at the tv, however, I have no idea where that runs to and I didn't see a matching cable in the back. I went to an upstairs closet and it's an enormous mess of probably 30 coax cables, IR cables on each side. One side has stuff all over the place and into an old receiver that the last owner left. The other side looks like where directv might be accessing (still has about 5 coax cables that aren't used).

Did they use to just stuff 100 coax cables throughout the house? That's what it seems like.

Anyway, I'm going to order an HDBaseT system and try it on the existing Cat5e cabling and pray that it's the same one in the front and back. They're both blue, but with the way things are wired in the house, who knows. .
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post #15 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 06:01 AM
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Ugh what a mess. You should invest in a cheap cable tester to make your life a bit easier. Then its just trial and error until you can map everything out. Cat5e is a definite bonus with HDBaseT extenders.
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post #16 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Are there cable testers that work at two different points of the room or do they need to be next to each other?
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post #17 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 08:13 AM
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I got this Cat5e/Cat6 tester from monoprice and it worked very well. It has a main and secondary unit which allow you to test an installed cable.

I can't help with testing the coax though as I have no experience in this area. Monoprice has a full suite of products you could use though.
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post #18 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 08:34 AM
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If you have a voltmeter you can at least identify wires - attach a 9V battery to one end, and check for voltage at the other. You can also just twist all the conductors together at one end and use the ohmmeter to find the shorted wire - but I prefer the battery clip test as its a certainty you've got the right one when you see 9V on the line...

But definitely get the wiring all identified before going much further. Label the wires so you (or the next guy) knows what the heck they are later...

You can get very inexpensive cable testers for cat5 at Home Depot, etc. If you have any amount of cat5 running in the house (or plan to), get one! You'll absolutely want to test that any cable connections you've wired have the correct pairings and termination.

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post #19 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I already placed my big order last night before seeing the cable tester on monoprice. I might just go to homedepot instead then.

Does anyone know what a cable labeled "from cam" would be?
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post #20 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 12:00 PM
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Get on Monoprice chat, if it hasn't shipped yet, they are really good at modifying your order.

I'd label a wire 'from cam' if I had a security camera somewhere. See anything missing in the corners or by the front door?
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post #21 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 View Post

Get on Monoprice chat, if it hasn't shipped yet, they are really good at modifying your order.

I'd label a wire 'from cam' if I had a security camera somewhere. See anything missing in the corners or by the front door?

Hmm, I need to take a look.
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post #22 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 06:27 PM
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Haha you keep coming back with more unknown wires. I'm begining to picture the scene from the movie Brazil where the technicians come to fix the air conditioning.


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post #23 of 24 Old 04-25-2012, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll take some pictures next time I go... haha.
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post #24 of 24 Old 04-27-2012, 10:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I figured out that one of the coax cables where the TV will go go upstairs into a closet upstairs, which is good because I wanted to put an OTA antenna upstairs. However, the place I wanted to do it required connecting about 4 different coax cables to get it into the room I want to put the antenna in. When I tested it, it didn't work (might have linked the wrong cables), however, when I attached the antenna half way through the links, I only got 10% reception.

That being said, does length affect the signal greatly? Does the amount of connections affect the signal greatly?
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