how to connect router to structured wiring panel - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-01-2012, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello all.

I'm new on here, and tried to research other threads about my issue.

I have Comcast cable internet, with the connection coming in to my study. The structured wiring panel is in my MBR closet. Each room in the house has 2 cat5e outlets, which I would like to make live, so i can add an AP to improve wifi signal in the house.

I naively thought that I could just connect one of the LAN ports from the router in the study to the wall cat5e outlet and make the other outlets live, and of course that did not work. Is there any other solution besides running a coax line to the panel, and connecting a modem + router there? Please see below for an image of the panel wiring. The lower hub has the patch cable connected to the "in" socket, and the "out" socket is empty.

Your help would be greatly appreciated!

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post #2 of 11 Old 12-01-2012, 06:21 PM
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Your structured wiring panel has the cat5 in it punched down to phone distribution blocks. All the lines throughout the house are in parallel with one another, which is great for telephone service but will not work with data.

You'll need to get a data punchdown module like this one (http://www.homecontrols.com/OpenHouse-Data-Termination-Hub-LNH628?sc=22&category=81415) and punch down the wire(s) you want to use for internet onto it. Then use patch cables to link the port you want active to your modem/router. Or if you want multiple locations active in the house, get an 8-port switch and plug into that.
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-01-2012, 07:10 PM
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+1

Do you see any coax near the enclosure? If the phone line runs to there, from the service entrance, the cable is probably run there too, from the service entrance.

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post #4 of 11 Old 12-01-2012, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petern View Post

Your structured wiring panel has the cat5 in it punched down to phone distribution blocks. All the lines throughout the house are in parallel with one another, which is great for telephone service but will not work with data.
You'll need to get a data punchdown module like this one (http://www.homecontrols.com/OpenHouse-Data-Termination-Hub-LNH628?sc=22&category=81415) and punch down the wire(s) you want to use for internet onto it. Then use patch cables to link the port you want active to your modem/router. Or if you want multiple locations active in the house, get an 8-port switch and plug into that.

So to make the data ports in the rooms live, I need the above module, with the green cables in the panel punched down to the terminals in the data module? If I understand correctly, the two hubs in my current panel should be replaced with the new data modules? Would I then need the router at the panel, or could I connect my router via one of the LAN ports plugged into the data port in my study to make all the rooms live?

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Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

+1
Do you see any coax near the enclosure? If the phone line runs to there, from the service entrance, the cable is probably run there too, from the service entrance.

There are a number of coax cables to the right of the hubs shown in the pic above (see below), which are currently connected for my Dish Network connections. From what I know, the only room which has a cable coax connection is the study and that is where my modem and router are located. To get a coax cable connection in the panel I might have to run new cable. That sounds hard to believe, so maybe I need to tinker around in the panel to see if there is already a live cable coax in ther somewhere.

Thanks for the responses!

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post #5 of 11 Old 12-01-2012, 08:45 PM
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You'll lose your phone landline, if you remove those modules.

If you need your phone, just repurpose the the cables you need to switch to ethernet.

Yeah, you'll need to do some sleuthing to determine which coax cable runs from your service entrance to your enclosure.

This is a super easy job for a pro, if you want to throw a couple hundred bucks at it. You'll need to buy a cable mapping tool to determine which coax runs from the service entrance to the enclosure. I have a fox and hound made by Tempo, for cable mapping, but it's cumbersome for coax. I just bought a Jonard brand coax cable mapping tool for $20, hasn't arrived yet.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&gl=us&biw=598&bih=170&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=jonard+cable+amazon+map+pocket&oq=jonard+cable+amazon+map+pocket&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3...5923.8198.0.8606.7.7.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.epsugrpq2..0.0...1.1.Bn-Zn0PBZ6E

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post #6 of 11 Old 12-02-2012, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

You'll lose your phone landline, if you remove those modules.
If you need your phone, just repurpose the the cables you need to switch to ethernet.
Yeah, you'll need to do some sleuthing to determine which coax cable runs from your service entrance to your enclosure.
This is a super easy job for a pro, if you want to throw a couple hundred bucks at it. You'll need to buy a cable mapping tool to determine which coax runs from the service entrance to the enclosure. I have a fox and hound made by Tempo, for cable mapping, but it's cumbersome for coax. I just bought a Jonard brand coax cable mapping tool for $20, hasn't arrived yet.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&gl=us&biw=598&bih=170&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=jonard+cable+amazon+map+pocket&oq=jonard+cable+amazon+map+pocket&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3...5923.8198.0.8606.7.7.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.epsugrpq2..0.0...1.1.Bn-Zn0PBZ6E

Thanks for the link to the Jonard tool. I might get one. After some preliminary snooping around, i think i found that the Dish guy bypassed my panel in the attic. I disconnected all of the points in the panel and my show was still running on the tv. i noticed some coax cables had been cut in the attic, so I don't know if that was their way of making sure I only had live satellite in the 3 rooms that they promised or if it was a mistake.

In terms of activating the cat5e ports in the rooms, can I plug in a connection from a wireless repeater set up in the closet where the panel is (after installing data termination hubs)? It looks like getting a cable connection, then setting up a modem and a router there would be more cumbersome to do at this point.

I wouldn't mind paying someone to do all this, but the problem is a) finding someone reliable to do it b) taking time off from work to come home for someone else to do the work. I appreciate all the help so far - I may take the plunge and do it myself, once I have all my ducks in a row.
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-03-2012, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caliking76 View Post

In terms of activating the cat5e ports in the rooms, can I plug in a connection from a wireless repeater set up in the closet where the panel is (after installing data termination hubs)? It looks like getting a cable connection, then setting up a modem and a router there would be more cumbersome to do at this point.
I wouldn't mind paying someone to do all this, but the problem is a) finding someone reliable to do it b) taking time off from work to come home for someone else to do the work. I appreciate all the help so far - I may take the plunge and do it myself, once I have all my ducks in a row.

caliking76-

Looks like you still have some questions regarding the data connections. If it were me I would simplify this and do the following:

I am sure they make modules (router / switch / whatever) that fits into your cabinet but I would personally not go that route. I would just mount a little shelf beneath your cabinet and that way I could place my cable modem / router / extra switch all on that shelf. Basically just take the cable line (after you split it of course) go into the modem, then take a little patch cable and go into your router (which most likely has either 4 or 8 ports I am assuming, then go straight into that "homecontrols hub panel" someone posted above. If for some reason your router only has 4 ports (like mine) then use one of the ports from the router and a little patch cable and go into an 8 port switch and then plug into the "homecontrols hub panel".

If you are doing a wireless router in this area and notice the reception is not all that great you could always add an AP in another room once all the data wires are connected and live. For me I run into this situation a little bit. All my equipment is in the basement so I just have a router (no wireless) connected in the basement and then I have a AP on my main floor for wireless connectivity.

Hope this info helps a little.....
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-03-2012, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by M1chael View Post

caliking76-
Looks like you still have some questions regarding the data connections. If it were me I would simplify this and do the following:
I am sure they make modules (router / switch / whatever) that fits into your cabinet but I would personally not go that route. I would just mount a little shelf beneath your cabinet and that way I could place my cable modem / router / extra switch all on that shelf. Basically just take the cable line (after you split it of course) go into the modem, then take a little patch cable and go into your router (which most likely has either 4 or 8 ports I am assuming, then go straight into that "homecontrols hub panel" someone posted above. If for some reason your router only has 4 ports (like mine) then use one of the ports from the router and a little patch cable and go into an 8 port switch and then plug into the "homecontrols hub panel".
If you are doing a wireless router in this area and notice the reception is not all that great you could always add an AP in another room once all the data wires are connected and live. For me I run into this situation a little bit. All my equipment is in the basement so I just have a router (no wireless) connected in the basement and then I have a AP on my main floor for wireless connectivity.
Hope this info helps a little.....

Thanks! Every bit of info helps. As I understand it bow, I need to figure out how to get a cable coax for my internet feed to that panel first. One other question - are the green lines currently hooked up for phone only? Or will those lines be punched in to a data termination hub and be able to carry both data and phone? Or will I have to sacrifice the phone lines to make the data ports live (without running any new wires)? I don't use the phone lines since I have Vonage.

Sorry if these are very basic questions, but thanks for the help.
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-03-2012, 03:33 PM
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You would remove the green cable from that phone distribution module, and connect the wires to a 'data distribution module' - basically a punch-down patch panel. This affordable Leviton item is available from Home Depot:



You would then use a short 'patch cable' to run from that patch panel to the router or separate switch.

Ideally, that patch panel would be mounted to the rear of your enclosure. That linked one is made by Leviton, and designed to snap into a Leviton bracket. The bracket snaps into the holes in the back of a Leviton enclosure. You don't have a Leviton enclosure, so you'll need Velcro, foam tape, or metal screws; the holes probably won't line up.

Go to Home Depot or Lowes, to see what's offered locally. I think Home Depot has a selection of Leviton items, and Lowes, IIRC, carries OnQ hardware.

There are many other ways to approach this. A keystone patch panel, mounted in the enclosure, would be another way to do it. I think adding male RJ45 connectors to the green cables would be much more expensive, and tricky, for the novice.

You'd also need to buy a punch down tool to add the wires to that punch-down patch panel, probably $15 from HD/Lowes, cheaper online. Keystone RJ45 connectors include a free small plastic punch down tool that works fine for a handful of connectors.

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-03-2012, 03:48 PM
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Many other videos on youtube, but this one shows the basics of punching down wires (conductors) into 110-style IDC clips.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wdDRtGLiow

Many more videos show the basics of RJ45 keystone jack punch downs - same tool for those (though some tool-less options available, that I haven't tried).

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post #11 of 11 Old 12-08-2012, 09:42 AM
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Works like a charm.


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