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post #1 of 14 Old 01-02-2013, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Been going through numerous threads and websites and think I have closed in on what I want/need but since I still feel totally naked on that subject and don't wanna buy the wrong stuff. I would be very happy if you could take a quick look at my choices (house is one level ranch style, so all the wiring runs in the roof):

AMP:
Lync 6 v2
Amp model DMA-1275: max 200 watts per zone
HTDNET-LYNC (don't want any plates, just wanna run it via phone - android for me, apple for the missus)

SPEAKERS:
Monoprice 6-1/2 Inches Kevlar 2-Way In-Ceiling Speakers (Pair) - 60W Nominal, 120W Max.
OR
Micca M-6C 6.5 Inch 2-Way

SOURCE (own it already):
Yamaha RX-V673 (via Zone 2)

WIRES:
Is 16 gauge fine or should I us 14 gauge?

PLATES:
2xCBL-BP8 Plate with 8 pair of Binding Posts

CODES:
This is really important to me so I won't run into any problems when selling the house. I just moved to the US like a year ago so I am not at all familiar with stuff like that. What do I have to consider? Do the all the wires have to run through a tube? Is it good enough if the wires are dedicated in wall wires such as monoprice's?


- I would want to put two speakers in the master bedroom,, two bathrooms, the kitchen, 2-4 in the dining room (dining and kitchen can be one zone) and 2 on the patio and maybe later on 2 in our gazebo tongue.gif (if kitchen/dining combo)

A) It says i can hook up to 24 speakers but there are only 12 plugs, would I literally just hook up two speakers in one plug? Does the wattage divide exactly by 2 then?

B) Do I need banana plugs if I am not planning on moving the system again till I move out?

C) Would I be fine with the DMA-1240? Is the 1275 'overkill'?

D) Kitchen dining area is the largest of these zones, would I benefit *a lot* from moving up to an 8 inch 3-way speaker? I want the whole system to be as little noticeable as possible. Does the benefit outweigh the disadvantage?

E) My outdoor speakers are the Yamaha NS-AW150BL 2-Way which are only 6 Ohms, is that a problem?


I am open to any changes/suggestions as long as it doesn't push the budget too far wink.gif I am definitely not an audiophile having hearing aids - lol - but they are sophisticated enough for me to be able to differ between good and bad sound wink.gif (they cost more that the whole system after all, lol)


Thanks for your time and advice, highly appreciated! Itching to pull the trigger!

Edit: What would be the best way to put an additional on/off switch between the amp and the outdoor speakers so they don't blast on accident at night?
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post #2 of 14 Old 01-02-2013, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by El Burrito View Post

HTDNET-LYNC (don't want any plates, just wanna run it via phone - android for me, apple for the missus)

Don't dismiss the in-room controls so easily... They are always where you left them, and quick and easy to use. Nothing wrong with using a mobile device for control, but it can be "both", doesn't have to be "either". Do you carry your phone around with you everywhere in the house? Think about how you might use the system... Retrofitting the keypads for these systems isn't difficult (not trivial, but not impossible), especially in a 1-level house with attic access. If anything, think about putting keypads in "primary" places where volume adjustment or source selection may be frequently used.
Quote:
Is 16 gauge fine or should I us 14 gauge?

16 is fine and common, but nothing bad about using thicker wire, either.
Quote:
This is really important to me so I won't run into any problems when selling the house. I just moved to the US like a year ago so I am not at all familiar with stuff like that. What do I have to consider? Do the all the wires have to run through a tube? Is it good enough if the wires are dedicated in wall wires such as monoprice's?

In-wall rated wire is a definite for code-compliance - I used the Monoprice stuff and it's good. Look for the "CL2" (or CL3) rating, which means it's made for in-wall.
Quote:
- I would want to put two speakers in the master bedroom,, two bathrooms, the kitchen, 2-4 in the dining room (dining and kitchen can be one zone) and 2 on the patio and maybe later on 2 in our gazebo tongue.gif (if kitchen/dining combo)

Home run everything, including the two pairs in the dining / kitchen, so that if you change your mind later and want to divide those rooms into their own zones, you can. Run wire everywhere while you're doing it - it's easy to come back and cut more speaker holes if you want to expand.
Quote:
A) It says i can hook up to 24 speakers but there are only 12 plugs, would I literally just hook up two speakers in one plug? Does the wattage divide exactly by 2 then?

Yes, it means the amp is 4-ohm stable, which means two pairs of 8-ohm speakers connected in parallel to each channel. And yes, the power is divided among the pairs.
Quote:
B) Do I need banana plugs if I am not planning on moving the system again till I move out?

Don't really need them ever. My speaker wires come out of the wall in a scoop and run directly to the amp. It's cleaner, simpler, and less connections to worry about.
Quote:
C) Would I be fine with the DMA-1240? Is the 1275 'overkill'?

You'll be fine. 1275 is overkill unless you've got really, really big rooms.
Quote:
D) Kitchen dining area is the largest of these zones, would I benefit *a lot* from moving up to an 8 inch 3-way speaker? I want the whole system to be as little noticeable as possible. Does the benefit outweigh the disadvantage?

8" may get you "better" sound but not louder... I'd stick with the 6.5" mainly for the easier ability to change out / upgrade speakers later if you choose. If you cut a 9-10" hole for an 8" speaker, you'll be very limited as to what other speakers will fill that hole. Making a small hole bigger later is easy. Other way, not so much. smile.gif
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E) My outdoor speakers are the Yamaha NS-AW150BL 2-Way which are only 6 Ohms, is that a problem?

By itself on a 4-ohm stable amp, not a problem.
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I am definitely not an audiophile having hearing aids - lol - but they are sophisticated enough for me to be able to differ between good and bad sound

Boy, we've had that quote a lot in the last few weeks. As in, "I don't want to pay a lot for this muffler"... biggrin.gif


Jeff

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post #3 of 14 Old 01-02-2013, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Don't dismiss the in-room controls so easily... They are always where you left them, and quick and easy to use. Nothing wrong with using a mobile device for control, but it can be "both", doesn't have to be "either". Do you carry your phone around with you everywhere in the house? Think about how you might use the system... Retrofitting the keypads for these systems isn't difficult (not trivial, but not impossible), especially in a 1-level house with attic access. If anything, think about putting keypads in "primary" places where volume adjustment or source selection may be frequently used.

Hmmm, I will consider the in room volume control then. But I really don't like the aesthetic aspect of them and I have my phone on me 95% of time. So for the 5% I don't I think I am too lazy to not go get it, lol. Would I still be able to control the volume over the phone then and override the volume control in the rooms?
Quote:
In-wall rated wire is a definite for code-compliance - I used the Monoprice stuff and it's good. Look for the "CL2" (or CL3) rating, which means it's made for in-wall.

So when I have the in-wall rated wire I don't need a conduit?
Quote:
Home run everything, including the two pairs in the dining / kitchen, so that if you change your mind later and want to divide those rooms into their own zones, you can. Run wire everywhere while you're doing it - it's easy to come back and cut more speaker holes if you want to expand.

Home run everything would mean to run a dedicated cable to each speaker and not just connect two speakers together up there right?
Quote:
Don't really need them ever. My speaker wires come out of the wall in a scoop and run directly to the amp. It's cleaner, simpler, and less connections to worry about.

So you would suggest not even using a CB plate? I kinda like the 'cleaner' look of it. Are there any disadvantages, especially sound wise?
Quote:
You'll be fine. 1275 is overkill unless you've got really, really big rooms.

What would you consider a really big room?
Quote:
8" may get you "better" sound but not louder... I'd stick with the 6.5" mainly for the easier ability to change out / upgrade speakers later if you choose. If you cut a 9-10" hole for an 8" speaker, you'll be very limited as to what other speakers will fill that hole. Making a small hole bigger later is easy. Other way, not so much. smile.gif

True tongue.gif So which of the speakers would you suggest? Or is there something better out there? Planning on doing this only once and hope to not have to upgrade later so I'd rather spend more now and be happy in the long run w/o always thinking about switching them out.
Quote:
Boy, we've had that quote a lot in the last few weeks. As in, "I don't want to pay a lot for this muffler"... biggrin.gif

Haha, kinda threw that in cause I've read it and your replies in many other threads and cause I kinda got a legitimate excuse with the aids tongue.gif But as I said I'd rather spend a little more now and be happy longterm.

I actually have a couple more questions:

- What would be the best way to put an additional on/off switch between the amp and the outdoor speakers so they don't blast on accident at night?

- What cable should I use to go from the receiver to the amp for best/lossless sound quality? It'll be long since they are basically in the rooms farthest apart...(Receiver is in the living room, amp will be in the guest room closet)

- Will the amp automatically regulate the incoming volume? Or does changing the volume in the Zone 2 on the receiver change the volume for all the in-wall speakers too? Will I have to set the start-up volume for the Zone 2 at a certain level?

Thanks for your very detailed reply!

Christian
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post #4 of 14 Old 01-02-2013, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by El Burrito View Post

Hmmm, I will consider the in room volume control then. But I really don't like the aesthetic aspect of them and I have my phone on me 95% of time. So for the 5% I don't I think I am too lazy to not go get it, lol. Would I still be able to control the volume over the phone then and override the volume control in the rooms?

Yes, both methods are just controls into the same system. Nothing I can do about the aesthetics, except suggest a "better" system that has better-looking keypads. biggrin.gif
Quote:
So when I have the in-wall rated wire I don't need a conduit?

Local codes will vary, but generally in the US low-voltage cables like speakers and cat5e do not have to be in conduit. If you're doing this as a retrofit less likely it would be required. If you can see any new construction "in action" around your location, you can take a look and see what the standard practice is currently.
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Home run everything would mean to run a dedicated cable to each speaker and not just connect two speakers together up there right?

Right - more about not splicing / connecting two rooms together to save wiring - run everything back to your central location.
Quote:
So you would suggest not even using a CB plate? I kinda like the 'cleaner' look of it. Are there any disadvantages, especially sound wise?

Won't matter sound wise, but you may need a 3 gang plate at least. A cable bundle, especially if "dressed" and/or covered with a cable sleeve, will, IMO, look better than a big faceplate with a bunch of wires and connectors exposed.
Quote:
What would you consider a really big room?

I'm in Texas, so that's a loaded question... biggrin.gif For example, my game room is like 20 x 18, I have four speakers (better sound coverage), but they run comfortably off of a 60W amp.
Quote:
So which of the speakers would you suggest? Or is there something better out there? Planning on doing this only once and hope to not have to upgrade later so I'd rather spend more now and be happy in the long run w/o always thinking about switching them out.

Not recommending anything different - just cautioning about moving to 8" speakers... Don't do that for "volume". But if at all possible, look for reviews / recommendations on specific models - there are a lot of really crappy in-ceiling "architectural" speakers. I have Boston Acoustics, Definitive Tech and NuVo speakers in my ceilings. I've upgraded several NuVo pairs - they're not bad, but nothing to write home about, either. At the budget-end, I've been happy with Polk in-ceiling models, too.
Quote:
Haha, kinda threw that in cause I've read it and your replies in many other threads and cause I kinda got a legitimate excuse with the aids tongue.gif But as I said I'd rather spend a little more now and be happy longterm.

SORRY - I'LL TYPE LOUDER! biggrin.gif
Quote:
What would be the best way to put an additional on/off switch between the amp and the outdoor speakers so they don't blast on accident at night?

Keep them on a separate zone. A keypad is a good way to deal with that, so that you have to be in the area to turn it on (the iPhone controls make that non-fool-proof now...). I wouldn't recommend another switch, as you'll then find it's always in the wrong position when you want to use it. If you can install a simple light switch outside (probably difficult to do), that would work.
Quote:
- What cable should I use to go from the receiver to the amp for best/lossless sound quality? It'll be long since they are basically in the rooms farthest apart...(Receiver is in the living room, amp will be in the guest room closet)

What are you using for sources? You might think about a Sonos unit for the system instead. You can easily connect the output of the receiver (should be a fixed line output if possible) using a cat5e balun (MuxLab) for long runs.
Quote:
- Will the amp automatically regulate the incoming volume? Or does changing the volume in the Zone 2 on the receiver change the volume for all the in-wall speakers too? Will I have to set the start-up volume for the Zone 2 at a certain level?

No, it won't, and yes it will change. Which is why I'd suggest direct connecting sources instead. Zone2 is great for simple, single-room zones. Feeding it into a WHA system, not as clean...

Jeff

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post #5 of 14 Old 01-02-2013, 04:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Yes, both methods are just controls into the same system. Nothing I can do about the aesthetics, except suggest a "better" system that has better-looking keypads. biggrin.gif
Ok so does that mean that the amp always starts up at the same volume? So let's say I was blasting it and then turning it off and using it again later would it stay the same volume as before or can I set it to a certain start up volume?
Quote:
Won't matter sound wise, but you may need a 3 gang plate at least. A cable bundle, especially if "dressed" and/or covered with a cable sleeve, will, IMO, look better than a big faceplate with a bunch of wires and connectors exposed.
Point taken.
Quote:
I'm in Texas, so that's a loaded question... biggrin.gif For example, my game room is like 20 x 18, I have four speakers (better sound coverage), but they run comfortably off of a 60W amp.
Ok good, we'll see if I can make myself not take the stronger one biggrin.gif
Quote:
Not recommending anything different - just cautioning about moving to 8" speakers... Don't do that for "volume". But if at all possible, look for reviews / recommendations on specific models - there are a lot of really crappy in-ceiling "architectural" speakers. I have Boston Acoustics, Definitive Tech and NuVo speakers in my ceilings. I've upgraded several NuVo pairs - they're not bad, but nothing to write home about, either. At the budget-end, I've been happy with Polk in-ceiling models, too.
Aaaaand back to square one on that topic tongue.gif Ok let me put it this way, does a 150$ speaker justify the premium over the ones I mentioned? Or is that something that one can't generally answer as it varies from one person to the other? I wouldn't do it for volume, just for a richer sound and better lows.
Quote:
SORRY - I'LL TYPE LOUDER! biggrin.gif
So u are making fun of handicapped people? Lol, jk almost spilled my coke.
Quote:
Keep them on a separate zone. A keypad is a good way to deal with that, so that you have to be in the area to turn it on (the iPhone controls make that non-fool-proof now...). I wouldn't recommend another switch, as you'll then find it's always in the wrong position when you want to use it. If you can install a simple light switch outside (probably difficult to do), that would work.
Well they would be on a separate zone anyways, but for example I wouldn't want them to come on when I use party mode at certain times, but at the same time I wouldn't want to have to turn on all the other zones separately just to avoid the outside one. Can I set the zones that come on in party mode maybe? That would probably be enough.
Quote:
What are you using for sources? You might think about a Sonos unit for the system instead. You can easily connect the output of the receiver (should be a fixed line output if possible) using a cat5e balun (MuxLab) for long runs.

Well I would want to use the Receiver bcs I really like the app and when I play the music in the whole house I wanna use my main speaker system in the living room too of course since that will produce the nicest sound by far. Once the system is in place I can always upgrade to the Sonos later right? Could I connect the receiver with the Sonos wirelessly or would I need 2 Sonos units then? I'll try it without first since I wanna keep the sources at a minimum especially for the wifey. She is perfectly capable of using the yamaha app and all the sources atm so I don't wanna introduce yet another thing tongue.gif
What is the benefit of the cat5e over an RCA cable?


Thanks yet again, Christian
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post #6 of 14 Old 01-02-2013, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by El Burrito View Post

Ok so does that mean that the amp always starts up at the same volume? So let's say I was blasting it and then turning it off and using it again later would it stay the same volume as before or can I set it to a certain start up volume?

That will be true of almost all setups regardless of method. However, some WHA (whole house audio) systems have some volume control options - NuVo calls this "Initial Volume" allowing zones to always turn on at a preset (i.e. low) volume regardless of their previous state. Exactly for the scenario you mentioned...
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Aaaaand back to square one on that topic tongue.gif Ok let me put it this way, does a 150$ speaker justify the premium over the ones I mentioned? Or is that something that one can't generally answer as it varies from one person to the other? I wouldn't do it for volume, just for a richer sound and better lows.

There's certainly sound preference, but I think for our discussion we're at the "basic quality" level differences... Many folks around here have been quite happy with the Monoprice in-ceiling speakers. I haven't heard them, but I'll guess they're similar to the NuVo speakers I have in terms of sound. And I also haven't read any negative comments about them, either...

The Boston and Definitive models I have are twice the price as the NuVo (street and/or list). But even the NuVo ones more than pass the threshold for "sounds decent". I wouldn't notice the difference if I didn't have other models in the house, quite frankly - we're not talking critical listening... But that said, when it came time to add some more zones to my system - I moved the NuVo speakers to less important zones and upgraded my game room and bedroom ones.
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So u are making fun of handicapped people? Lol, jk almost spilled my coke.

Hey, if you've got a drinking problem, this is probably not the right place for advice. biggrin.gif
Quote:
Well they would be on a separate zone anyways, but for example I wouldn't want them to come on when I use party mode at certain times, but at the same time I wouldn't want to have to turn on all the other zones separately just to avoid the outside one. Can I set the zones that come on in party mode maybe? That would probably be enough.

Will depend on the system. My NuVo can do that (exclude zone from party mode), very possible other brands can do the same. Do what I did, download the manuals for any interesting product and pour through it before deciding on a direction.
Quote:
Well I would want to use the Receiver bcs I really like the app and when I play the music in the whole house I wanna use my main speaker system in the living room too of course since that will produce the nicest sound by far.

Ok, good answer.
Quote:
Once the system is in place I can always upgrade to the Sonos later right? Could I connect the receiver with the Sonos wirelessly or would I need 2 Sonos units then? I'll try it without first since I wanna keep the sources at a minimum especially for the wifey. She is perfectly capable of using the yamaha app and all the sources atm so I don't wanna introduce yet another thing tongue.gif

You can always add stuff!
Quote:
What is the benefit of the cat5e over an RCA cable?

Only benefit is the ability to use cabling already in place. If you're running new wire, a pair of RG59 coax runs with RCA ends is the cheapest, most direct way to go.


Jeff

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post #7 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

That will be true of almost all setups regardless of method. However, some WHA (whole house audio) systems have some volume control options - NuVo calls this "Initial Volume" allowing zones to always turn on at a preset (i.e. low) volume regardless of their previous state. Exactly for the scenario you mentioned...
Ok I downloaded the manual and went through it but couldn't find anything so I will send them an email. That could be a deal-breaker...but alternatively I could set the start-up volume on the receiver to extremely low, have to think about that.
Quote:
There's certainly sound preference, but I think for our discussion we're at the "basic quality" level differences... Many folks around here have been quite happy with the Monoprice in-ceiling speakers. I haven't heard them, but I'll guess they're similar to the NuVo speakers I have in terms of sound. And I also haven't read any negative comments about them, either...
The Boston and Definitive models I have are twice the price as the NuVo (street and/or list). But even the NuVo ones more than pass the threshold for "sounds decent". I wouldn't notice the difference if I didn't have other models in the house, quite frankly - we're not talking critical listening... But that said, when it came time to add some more zones to my system - I moved the NuVo speakers to less important zones and upgraded my game room and bedroom ones.
Yeah, then I think I will go with the monoprice for now and look into better ones for the kitchen/dining zone since it will be the biggest and most frequented.
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Hey, if you've got a drinking problem, this is probably not the right place for advice. biggrin.gif
tongue.gif
Quote:
Will depend on the system. My NuVo can do that (exclude zone from party mode), very possible other brands can do the same. Do what I did, download the manuals for any interesting product and pour through it before deciding on a direction.
Again couldn't find it in the manual, will include that in my mail.
Quote:
Only benefit is the ability to use cabling already in place. If you're running new wire, a pair of RG59 coax runs with RCA ends is the cheapest, most direct way to go.
Well no cables in place in this house, built in 1971 and guided into present age by my wife and I tongue.gif I am actually kinda scared what I am gonna find up there, electrical wiring wise...
Regarding the RG59 I am a little confused, get so many results looking for them. Should I just make them myself or are there ready made ones? Since I don't know exactly how long yet I guess I am better off ordering the cables and the ends and put it together myself right? Sorry for the trouble but if you could provide me a link I would be thrilled!

And a little off-topic; I was looking at your HT thread (Jesus Christ, nice work!) and from what I gathered there and in other threads u can use the old basic cat5e for virtually anything right? Is that due to all the signals being digital nowadays? So that would mean that there really is no need for "good" cables right?

And off-topic two since we are planning an addition on top of the garage; the green glue is already bookmarked and I will use that stuff regardless but if I understand it right that means two layers of drywall right?

Thanks again for all your advice/help even tough u are showing me every post that I know even less than I thought, lol.
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post #8 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by El Burrito View Post

Ok I downloaded the manual and went through it but couldn't find anything so I will send them an email. That could be a deal-breaker...but alternatively I could set the start-up volume on the receiver to extremely low, have to think about that.

Really? If that's the deal-breaker, you should probably be looking at a higher-end system that has that level of customization. You really want the source inputs to a WHA system to be fixed levels, so you don't have multiple volume controls.
Quote:
Regarding the RG59 I am a little confused, get so many results looking for them. Should I just make them myself or are there ready made ones? Since I don't know exactly how long yet I guess I am better off ordering the cables and the ends and put it together myself right? Sorry for the trouble but if you could provide me a link I would be thrilled!

Yes, just make them yourself. You can use normal compression F-fittings, and use a 50-cent "F to RCA" connector / adapter. That's what I've done for those cases (like the subwoofer cables).
Quote:
And a little off-topic; I was looking at your HT thread (Jesus Christ, nice work!) and from what I gathered there and in other threads u can use the old basic cat5e for virtually anything right? Is that due to all the signals being digital nowadays? So that would mean that there really is no need for "good" cables right?

Thanks! Well, everything is using cat5e because (1) it's a good cable design, and (2) it's everywhere and everyone understands it, so it's cheap and plentiful. The cable was designed for digital signals, but the usage in A/V is more due to the fact that it's been wired in our homes for phone/Ethernet. If you want to make a product for residential use, it needs to work with the wiring found in houses. From there, it's fed on itself to become the de facto standard...

The coolest convergence is the HDBaseT technology, which is using the twisted-pair, Gigabit-Ethernet signal technology to transmit HDMI plus a bunch of other stuff over one cable. Very slick, and leverages all the heavy lifting the networking guys have done for Ethernet... (HDBaseT isn't Ethernet, but it's using a lot of the underlying high-speed, differential signal technology)
Quote:
And off-topic two since we are planning an addition on top of the garage; the green glue is already bookmarked and I will use that stuff regardless but if I understand it right that means two layers of drywall right?

Yes, the poorly-named Green Glue is the stuffing of the oreo cookie. Goes between two sheets as a damping agent. If you're planning an addition and intend to build a theater with soundproofing - start reading threads about it in the Dedicated Theater forum now, and read everything at TheSoundproofingCompany website about it. There's a lot to learn, and starting before understanding can cause poor results or wasted money (I probably wasted some from bad assumptions - I should have done more reading and asking beforehand).

Jeff

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post #9 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 01:51 PM
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Jeff,

Slightly off topic... for some strange reason, I never noticed the links in your sig until just now. Was looking at your rack... very nice, looks like you did it yourself? Can I ask where you got the custom rackmounts? I'm guessing Middle Atlantic?
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post #10 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 02:57 PM
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Jeff,
Slightly off topic... for some strange reason, I never noticed the links in your sig until just now. Was looking at your rack... very nice, looks like you did it yourself? Can I ask where you got the custom rackmounts? I'm guessing Middle Atlantic?

Thanks! I did the A/V and electrical work. Rest of the trades were done by contractors. And yes, the rack is a Middle Atlantic AX-S with MA custom faceplates.

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

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post #11 of 14 Old 01-04-2013, 06:16 AM
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Mind if I ask what the average cost was for one of those custom shelves? Most of my stuff is already rackmountable, but I'm going to need to get a custom shelf for the AVR and the Sonos units. Not such a big deal with the Sonos units since I could just sit them on a shelf and put a blank panel in front, but I wouldn't mind having them all displayed. Oh, and my cable boxes and Blu-ray player. Thanks!!
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-04-2013, 07:09 AM
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Mind if I ask what the average cost was for one of those custom shelves? Most of my stuff is already rackmountable, but I'm going to need to get a custom shelf for the AVR and the Sonos units. Not such a big deal with the Sonos units since I could just sit them on a shelf and put a blank panel in front, but I wouldn't mind having them all displayed. Oh, and my cable boxes and Blu-ray player. Thanks!!

I paid around $100 each for the shelves with custom faceplates. The faceplate is part of the shelf. The thing to watch if you're going that route is that your rackmount gear is truly an even rack-unit high. Some components are not (rack U=1.75"), and they will leave a open gap above/below. Others had their rack mounts positioned poorly such that the piece hangs between U spaces... That's why you'll see some racks with custom faceplates on stuff that could have been rack-mounted on their own.

I was against the whole concept of custom faceplates (cost, recurring cost when compnents are upgraded), but now really like the look. And finding out that you can get a replacement MA faceplate (attach to an existing shelf after the old faceplate is removed) for around $50, makes the recurring cost issue less worrisome.

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

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post #13 of 14 Old 01-04-2013, 07:41 AM
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Thanks for the info! And the MA custom shelves/faceplates should work with other standard AV racks, correct? I'm looking at getting either a Sanus or Omnimount rack, and would then throw in a few of the custom MA faceplates.
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post #14 of 14 Old 01-04-2013, 08:42 AM
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Thanks for the info! And the MA custom shelves/faceplates should work with other standard AV racks, correct? I'm looking at getting either a Sanus or Omnimount rack, and would then throw in a few of the custom MA faceplates.

Yep, it's all 19" standard rack stuff. Watch the finish styles so everything matches when you get done (brushed metal vs. flat black)...

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

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