Emergency bathroom wiring (audio/video) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-13-2013, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, so I'm having a bathroom added to the house and things in life have been super hectic up until now and I hadn't considered audio/video. Anyways, they are going to be putting up insulation and drywall tomorrow and I need to run wires today. I already have the wire here (cat6, rg6, and speaker). I'm definitely thinking of at least a stereo input speaker. I was going to put a speaker bracket in, but at this point, I think i'm just going to run the wire to the location and take a picture and after the drywall is up, cut the hole for the speaker (cheaper as well).

So, here is the bathroom (it is rough and probably not to scale, but it's ~11x9):



I drew circles were the light are going (I left out the 2 vanity lights and the one above the tub which will be a chandelier for the GF.) I figured a nice central spot for the speaker would be best. I am thinking I need to consider a wall volume control as well, but they've already run the electrical and I"m not sure where I would put it. Either way, it's in a place that I think I could easily add the switch later if I needed to.


As to video, looking at the picture above, does anyone have any suggestions for running the video portion? Please note that the walls that make up the shower are half walls with glass on top, The tub is really a claw foot, and the faucet for the tub is really on the wall between the shower and the tub.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-13-2013, 01:32 PM
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Run 4 conductors to a single speaker location, for a DVC (dual voice coil, or stereo) speaker. Or, use 2 speakers with 2 wires to each speaker.

I'd run category cable to a possible future keypad location. Ideally, the speaker cable(s) should be run to the keypad location and then up to the speakers, to give the option for a simple volume control. The keypad would be above the light switch(es), at eye height. A volume control is usually at switch height.

I'd run category cable and thermostat wire if there will be a thermostat in the room.

What's on the wall to the right of the vanity, when you're facing the vanity? Just to the right of the door when you walk in. That might be a good place for KP/VC/in-wall tablet. Also might be a good place for a wall-mounted TV, on a cantilever/pull-out mount that you could swivel to watch from the tub.

Waterproof TV in the shower? Waterproof music keypad in shower? How about TV on exterior wall at the end of the tub, opposite the shower? Will the faucet prevent someone from leaning back at the shower end?

I probably would have designed the Audio first, and then added the other less important stuff later, e.g. tub, toilet. wink.gif

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post #3 of 6 Old 02-13-2013, 01:34 PM
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Talk to your contractor. He will know a pro to call, to get this done right, and immediately. Of course, it will cost you, but you don't want to kick yourself later, with a sub-par setup.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #4 of 6 Old 02-13-2013, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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First of all, thanks for all the suggestions smile.gif I may have to run to home depot and get some wires to run and stash in the walls for now. Now on to your post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Run 4 conductors to a single speaker location, for a DVC (dual voice coil, or stereo) speaker. Or, use 2 speakers with 2 wires to each speaker.
I have some regular UL rated cable (2 conductor), so I'll probably run 2.
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I'd run category cable to a possible future keypad location. Ideally, the speaker cable(s) should be run to the keypad location and then up to the speakers, to give the option for a simple volume control. The keypad would be above the light switch(es), at eye height. A volume control is usually at switch height.
Good idea about the keypad location. Should I run this back to my central equipment closet? For now I'll probably run the wire and just leave it loose in the wall.

At this point they already have a 5 gang wall switch box in place, I can't add to it (the box is actually wider than the 5 gangs it provides). If I do volume, it will likely have to be above or below and likely be added at a later date. I could run the wire now though.
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I'd run category cable and thermostat wire if there will be a thermostat in the room.
No thermostat in the room.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

What's on the wall to the right of the vanity, when you're facing the vanity? Just to the right of the door when you walk in. That might be a good place for KP/VC/in-wall tablet. Also might be a good place for a wall-mounted TV, on a cantilever/pull-out mount that you could swivel to watch from the tub.
I hadn't thought of that area, but right now, that is where the switches go. It is a great place for the tv since it can be viewed from the bath as well as the shower, ok, maybe not the best view from the bath. My other thought was a ceiling mount above the faucet of the tub.
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Waterproof TV in the shower? Waterproof music keypad in shower?
no tv in the shower. I think that might be over kill for this bathroom. the Keybad would be nice, but probably could be added later.
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How about TV on exterior wall at the end of the tub, opposite the shower? Will the faucet prevent someone from leaning back at the shower end?
I would put the tv there, but the tub is a "slipper tub', so you'd be facing the shower normally, and yes, the faucet definitely would prevent you from facing the other direction.
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I probably would have designed the Audio first, and then added the other less important stuff later, e.g. tub, toilet. wink.gif

I feel ya, but I didn't think of that when the architect was designing everything. I should have, but didn't. hindsight is always 20/20 though.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-13-2013, 02:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Talk to your contractor. He will know a pro to call, to get this done right, and immediately. Of course, it will cost you, but you don't want to kick yourself later, with a sub-par setup.

I need to do this myself and do it tonight. He's ready to get the job done and I've done a lot of "additions" so I know i'm testing his patience. he's been great and waived the fees for contract changes in the beginning, so I don't want to abuse that. Like I said, I have the cable for the most part and can easily pull it myself tonight.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-14-2013, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Neruorad,

I got all the wires run last night. Unfortunately, while doing so I fried my HDMI 1 on my receiver (thank goodness it has 2) and some of the in between cables/ adapters. I'm not sure if it was due to static electricity while I was pulling the cables or something else. I did get a faint hint of "burning electrical smell" while I was in the attic, but didn't think much of it. I was just trying to get stuff done. I'm also concerned that its the monoprice hdmo -> cat6 converters I'm using. My brother is coming over today to help me take the TV off the wall so I can do more investigating and to see if the port on the TV is bad. I'm fairly confident that the monoprice adapter is fried, but I happen to have an extra set (that I'm using with some 25' cat6 cables strewn across the living room from the equipment closet to the tv).

Anywho....wires are there and I even ran electrical (but didn't connect it to live power) so that I should be able to do it. BTW, my final destinations were the wall next to the door and the ceiling between the shower and the tub. I figure I could ceiling mount a TV there if I wanted to.
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