Originally Posted by Axelrod
You know, this is a good question. Right now I see bare cables coming out of the wall in the living room. I don't know what the other end of the cable goes to. I now *think* it might be a pre-wiring deal, where these cables are there to possibly be connected in the future to speakers that would be put in the walls. In which case, I guess I could ignore these cables entirely for now? And I'd just use regular speaker wire to connect my receiver to the shelf speakers I have?
Well, if you don't know where the wires go, kinda hard to use them... And yes, it's just wire. Nothing special, and if you've got speakers already and can run wire to them, go for it. Most bookshelf speakers will sound better than similarly-priced in-walls, assuming that's where those wires go. If the builder did another typical move, those wires may go to the ceiling, which is the last place you'd really want the LCR's...
I'm not sure what you mean about chaining from one to the other and testing to make sure I get them in the right order? Can you explain that a little better? If you can't tell, I'm a complete novice at this.
Time/labor saving move. 4-conductor cable supports two speakers. You run the wire to the first speaker, hook up the red/black, then splice the white/green to another piece of wire, which runs to the second speaker.
What I meant is that assuming they used the pairs correctly, you'll still need to figure out which speaker is "right surround" vs. "left surround". Hook them up, run the speaker setup/test in your AVR, and swap the connections if they're backwards...
You are saying it's okay to twist the red and black ones ("right") and white and green ones ("left") together?
I wouldn't combine them that way just by convention - twist the red/green and black/white together - but it's a very minor point. You can just use the red/black and ignore the other two.
These are Truaudio VCK-100, which are advertised as impedemence matching I think?
Yep, you should be set there.
I'm sorry, you've lost me again with this. As I said, there appear to be two separate cables for each pair of speakers in the other rooms. One is a 4 conductor cable, and one is what looks to be an 8 conductor cable. (the 4 conductor cable is white, and thicker. The 8 (I think) conductor cable is blue, and thinner despite the fact it seems to have more smaller wires in it.) When you say I should connect all pairs to the amp, you mean I should connect the 4 conductor as well as the 8 conductor? How would I match the wires from the 8 conductor with the 4 conductor?
4-conductor cable will feed a pair of speakers. Red/black should be one speaker, green/white the other. I usually use red/black for the "right" speaker and greeen/white for "Left", but I don't think there's a standard, so again you may have to swap them once you figure it out. They should be consistent throughout the house, though.
Ah, and I thought I read you had another wire, but missed it (saw the coax and figured I mis-read this). That's good news - that is a cat5e cable to run a keypad. You can replace the simple volume controls in the future with basically any whole house audio system on the market, as you're wired up correctly! A slicker volume control setup is the Aton DLA6, and I've already mentioned the HTD systems which are a great value for a true whole house audio system. There are other choices, too, including using a set of Sonos Connect:Amps or NuVo P3100 systems (which don't use keypads and go strictly mobile-device for control).
If you can recall the back of the Amp-100, it's got connectors for "Speaker A" and "Speaker B" on the back with 2 red and 2 black, right and left for each. I was assuming (hoping) I could use 1 red and 1 black for each of hte speaker pairs (study, office, kitchen, deck). Is that right/will that work?
It's essentially the same thing as wiring them all together, but yes, you can just cram two wires into each of the A/B connections (4 rooms, 2 on A, 2 on B).
I do have a powered subwoofer, but it's older and doesn't have a coax input. So, you think I can ignore this one as well?
Yes, it does. It's just in the form of an RCA jack instead of the "F connector" on most coax cables. The installer should have terminated that wire with an RCA jack at a wall plate, but if not, you can pick up an adapter for less than $1 from Monoprice (you may need two):