I picked a manufacturer (Wago, in my case), and did a ton of reading online, from Wago and from their distributors. I also spoke on the phone to a few distributors, with specific questions.
I think Phoenix is more popular, cheaper, and more widely available, but I like that Wago has a strong history of extremely well engineered products.
It's been a while since I've had to think about this.
What I would suggest is 'feed through' terminal blocks - one connection in, one out, aka 2 conductor TB. No ground connection to the rail.
The stripped conductor end is put into one of the side holes and the connection is made with a screw terminal, in the above example. A screwdriver tightens the connection, from the front of the TB (top of the pic is the front of the TB). That is a side entry terminal block.
Front entry also available, where the conductor comes into the block from the front:
That is a 4 conductor pass-through TB, front entry.
When space is a factor, you can use double density/double decker TBs (triple density also available):
That's an example of a front entry, 2 conductor, double density TB. That Wago one doesn't use screws, but uses screwless 'cage clamps' to trap the conductors:
A tool like a mini screwdriver is introduced into the front of the TB to depress the spring, and the conductor is inserted. Then the spring is released. I had some trouble performing this - I used a mini screwdriver and not the special tool.
This pic shows a special tool used to depress the spring:
- commercial for Wago Cage Clamp
There are 2-3 different standard sizes of DIN rail used by all manufacturers. I remember looking at the spec sheet of the TB to determine the size DIN rail, and just ordered a length of DIN rail from the distributor. The TBs simply click onto the DIN rail. I think 1 standard size is most common, and the 'micro' and 'mini' TBs use something smaller.
For each model TB, there are 'end plates' (listed under 'accessories' usually) available. Each TB has one enclosed side and one open side - to reduce space. To finish a row, you click in this end plate to cover up the open TB. Depending on price, you could just use an extra, unused TB at the end of the row. Your distributor may make you buy a minimum quantity of end plates. Officially, you're supposed to use a block at the each end of a row that locks to the DIN rail, to keep the TBs from sliding, but mine are difficult to move, so I skipped this. End plate example:
Some fancy TBs have ground connections, point testing connections, fuses/PTCs, ICs, and other electric components.
It is easier and cheaper to use barrier strips/Buchanan blocks/barrier blocks/terminal strips, either screwed into the enclosure or onto an adapter plate:
And, as I have said previously, most people run their speaker cables all the way to the amps, without patching. Just wanted to make that clear, for others.