Re-wiring my homes old Coax Network advise - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 45 Old 07-18-2013, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Dunno who wired it originally, but when we moved in around 1989, the service drop comes to the garage, they had a CHEAP Splitter on it, then one wire running through the garage roof to the living area, then another to the back room / office, the office is split w/ a 2-way (one to dvr, one to Cable Modem).


Now, They obviously wired it for OLD Analog Cable and Not Digital Cable/Internet,

I've been having issue with the wiring for ages, as well as the splitters, that I've replaced, some channels dont get any signal at all, other's have digital corruptions, and I've come to the conclusion that the wires laid out in the walls are prolly garbage.



So, While the locations of the Outlets are for the most part fine,

I'd Like to split the Line 3 times at the Service drop, and run one line to the living area, and one to the office like before, and a 3rd line to run to the 2nd story, for future use. (plan to have a Ceton 6 tuner hooked to my HTPC Eventually)

Problem is the 2nd Line to the office, has a DVR and Cable modem, and Would require a 2nd 2-Way splitter, that's splitting the signal an awful lot.
(is that Feasible?, since I've always had problems with that setup).

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post #2 of 45 Old 07-18-2013, 05:00 PM
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With RG6 cabling you can certainly split the cable multiple times without issue. One of the big issues may be that you are using splitters which are not compatible with digital cable. If you are using RG6 throughout the home currently, then there should be no reason to replace it, but it could definitely be non-digital compliant splitters.

If you are using RG59, then that would be a pretty big issue as that is generally considered unacceptable for digital cable systems.

I have multiple splitters in my home and they work fine - no issues at all. The cable company can come in and check the signal to ensure it is strong enough, and not too strong in your home. You should have this checked out if you are having issues. I've had both overpower and underpower issues over the years with different providers.

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post #3 of 45 Old 07-18-2013, 06:11 PM
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Call the cable company. Their techs have testing tools to measure the signal strength (if they can't do it from connected cable boxes). I don't know if they'll give you new powered splitters or other hardware - but they might.

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post #4 of 45 Old 07-18-2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkateZilla View Post

...

Now, They obviously wired it for OLD Analog Cable and Not Digital Cable/Internet,

...

There is absolutely no difference between analog and digital when it comes to materials and methods of wiring!
It is ALL just RF.
{The wire and splitters and other devices could care less what type of signal is modulating the RF}
Quality Materials and good wiring practices are what make a difference
(that being said, a "hack" can still screw up an installation)
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post #5 of 45 Old 07-18-2013, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

With RG6 cabling you can certainly split the cable multiple times without issue. One of the big issues may be that you are using splitters which are not compatible with digital cable. If you are using RG6 throughout the home currently, then there should be no reason to replace it, but it could definitely be non-digital compliant splitters.

If you are using RG59, then that would be a pretty big issue as that is generally considered unacceptable for digital cable systems.

I have multiple splitters in my home and they work fine - no issues at all. The cable company can come in and check the signal to ensure it is strong enough, and not too strong in your home. You should have this checked out if you are having issues. I've had both overpower and underpower issues over the years with different providers.

The Main line was in the house when we moved in (it's old and stiff), the 2nd one was added by me about 10 years ago, but im 99% sure when we re-did the siding one of the guys actually put a nail through the line to hold it to the wall so he could put the siding over it.

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post #6 of 45 Old 07-19-2013, 05:20 PM
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I'm sure it's about the gauge. If the old wiring is RG-59, then you will want to upgrade all of the wiring to RG-6.

You will want to also make sure the wiring is home run.
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post #7 of 45 Old 07-20-2013, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

With RG6 cabling you can certainly split the cable multiple times without issue.
At 750MHz, the difference in attenuation between RG6 and RG59 on a 50' cable run is only 0.66dB.

Say you have 15dBmV leaving the tap on a 100’ RG6 drop to an unbalanced 3-way splitter. That equates to 9.35dBmV hitting the splitter, which then gives you 5.85dBmV coming out the hot port and 2.35dBmV coming out the other 2 ports. There are 2 outlets 25’ from the splitter, and 1 outlet 50’ away.

With an RG59 distribution system, the 50’ outlet would have 2.36dBmV while the close outlets would have 0.61dBmV.

An RG6 distribution system would have the far outlet at 3dBmV and the close ones at 0.94dBmV

RG6 does not always save the day.
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post #8 of 45 Old 07-20-2013, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

...non-digital compliant splitters.
WTF is a digital compliant splitter?
Quote:
...RG59...is generally considered unacceptable for digital cable systems.
That would be the second biggest myth, right after the superiority of quad shield. All other things being equal (shield type, number of shields, shield coverage, etc.), the difference between RG-59 and RG-6 is simply attenuation at the frequency of interest. And as Ed has shown, it is hardly significant in the typical residential installation. If less than 1dB difference affects the usability of your signal, you are right on the edge anyway and need to do something about the strength of the signal going into the cable plant.
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post #9 of 45 Old 07-20-2013, 06:01 PM
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So many of the most commonly used marketing terms both irritate and amuse me at the same time. Digital splitter, amplified splitter, and the list does go on... Gotta make it sound impressive.

CIAO!

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post #10 of 45 Old 07-20-2013, 10:44 PM
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My favorite is "HDTV antenna".
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post #11 of 45 Old 07-21-2013, 08:15 AM
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Good ol' marketing... wink.gif

CIAO!

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post #12 of 45 Old 07-21-2013, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post


There is absolutely no difference between analog and digital when it comes to materials and methods of wiring!
It is ALL just RF.
{The wire and splitters and other devices could care less what type of signal is modulating the RF}
Quality Materials and good wiring practices are what make a difference
(that being said, a "hack" can still screw up an installation)

Are you being a little ruff on the best buys of the world, now they have to find something ells to BS the new-be about.
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post #13 of 45 Old 07-21-2013, 09:42 AM
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Hay I have 2 40inch samys at work that are tied and I mean TIED to an 40 year old antenna thats just about corroded away laying on a flat roof on top of a brick with a hunk of 2X4 to keep in place. Customers are all the time asking about the picture, why is it so good and after I tell'em it just blows then away. Plus the no compression or very little off air.
There is one area that does need solid copper core coax, DirecTV Deca system, that has something to do with the skin effect and other signals plus 12 or 18 volts on the same run but that does not have anything to what is seen on the TV.
The only place a quad coax is need is close to some forms of interference, and then to terminate the stuff it needs bigger connectors. Remember the old flat twin led stuff bet it works just a good for off air digital.
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post #14 of 45 Old 07-21-2013, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

WTF is a digital compliant splitter?
Older splitters which many people may still have in their homes are designed for 300MHz to 500MHz bandwidth. Amplified home cable splitters were often similarly rated. Leviton had a number of models which were great for standard coax, but did not work with digital systems as they advanced.

Most modern splitters have a rating up to, and beyond 2,000MHz.

So, in an older setup, where the splitters used to be fine, they may not be compatible with the newer digital systems. It is not a characteristic of being 'digital' vs. 'analog' - it is the bandwidth of older splitters vs. the newer splitters and the old analog cable systems vs. the new cable systems.

I've had a number of older splitters that I've had to throw out to replace with new ones, when the only switch in the system was a analog to digital upgrade in the system. Since the bandwidth is listed right on the splitter, it was easy to tell it was not compatible with the new system.

On the plus side, Monoprice has a bunch of cheap splitters that work very well...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042206

Certainly on shorter runs RG59 is acceptable, but I wouldn't wire a house with it these days for sure.

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post #15 of 45 Old 07-21-2013, 05:35 PM
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It is not a characteristic of being 'digital' vs. 'analog' - it is the bandwidth...
Glad to hear you know that. I was beginning to worry about you.
Quote:
Certainly on shorter runs RG59 is acceptable, but I wouldn't wire a house with it these days for sure.
Neither would I if I had to buy cable. OTOH if I had some RG59 lying around and needed to add a run, I wouldn't think twice about using it. And I certainly wouldn't replace perfectly good RG59 just because it isn't RG6. If it works, it works.
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post #16 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 07:20 AM
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All my runs are RG-6 to the wall plates. I used to use RG-59 from the wall plates to the equipment because it was so much easier to use, not as stiff. One day the cable or satellite guy said to use RG-6 from the wall plates for what ever reason and have been doing that since. I never saw an improvement in picture quality since changing it.

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post #17 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Glad to hear you know that. I was beginning to worry about you.
Neither would I if I had to buy cable. OTOH if I had some RG59 lying around and needed to add a run, I wouldn't think twice about using it. And I certainly wouldn't replace perfectly good RG59 just because it isn't RG6. If it works, it works.
Oh no, certainly worry about me, and I don't take offense to being corrected (when others are actually correct! smile.gif ) - I have a lot that I have learned, but I certainly could have learned the wrong thing, so I'm up for learning new stuff when opportunity arises. I've heard a lot about RG6 being 'required' for digital systems, so I did some more research on this online and read that it just seems to be blatantly untrue for a 'typical' home A/V & cable situation. I will keep that in mind for sure as swapping cable out really is likely to suck. Obviously changing to better/newer splitters may make sense for many very old situations.

I know I got a really nice amplified cable distribution for my old home, and when we went from Cox to FiOS I had to pull it out in favor of standard splitters because FiOS wasn't compatible with the amplified splitter. Cox, for whatever reason, was fine with it. Didn't make much sense to me then, but makes a bit more sense now.

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post #18 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 08:52 AM
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All my runs are RG-6 to the wall plates. I used to use RG-59 from the wall plates to the equipment because it was so much easier to use, not as stiff. One day the cable or satellite guy said to use RG-6 from the wall plates for what ever reason and have been doing that since. I never saw an improvement in picture quality since changing it.

A few feet of RG59 is unlikely to make a hill-of-beans difference... But absolutely that's what the sat guy would have told you!
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I've heard a lot about RG6 being 'required' for digital systems, so I did some more research on this online and read that it just seems to be blatantly untrue for a 'typical' home A/V & cable situation. I will keep that in mind for sure as swapping cable out really is likely to suck. Obviously changing to better/newer splitters may make sense for many very old situations.

The RG6 thing got drilled into the heads of all the satellite installers in the 90's. And of course, all this "training" was made very black and white - "NO RG59!!!!" - to make it a simple rule for them to follow. This "learned behavior" is very hard to overcome - especially when it's mostly 'correct' and not bad advice, where following the advice doesn't cause any problems, other than cost and time.

IIRC the SWM systems from DirecTV remove the "requirement" for RG6 and are supported on RG59 - part of the push to make installations trivially simple for CATV-wired homes...

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post #19 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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well One outlet is 20 feet away from the Service Entrance, the other is about 60-75, and the future 3rd is about 20.

Right now there are GE 2 Way Splitters that go up to 2500Mhz.

The problems with channels not showing up is the lines, one is OLD, (25+ YRS), the Other was damaged by construction.

Internet always seemed fine, but the DVR was constantly having fits on specific Channels.

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post #20 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
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A few feet of RG59 is unlikely to make a hill-of-beans difference... But absolutely that's what the sat guy would have told you!
The RG6 thing got drilled into the heads of all the satellite installers in the 90's. And of course, all this "training" was made very black and white - "NO RG59!!!!" - to make it a simple rule for them to follow. This "learned behavior" is very hard to overcome - especially when it's mostly 'correct' and not bad advice, where following the advice doesn't cause any problems, other than cost and time.

IIRC the SWM systems from DirecTV remove the "requirement" for RG6 and are supported on RG59 - part of the push to make installations trivially simple for CATV-wired homes...

DirecTV is using 21 and 29 volt power inserts in the SWiM systems and do have a real requirement for solid copper core RG6 its about half the restance of copper clad. Also there is voltage,12 and 18 cared on the old twin wire systems that RG59 would get hot if used in a log run. The DirecTV RG6 also cares ethernet signals known as DECA along with the satellite signal plus the voltage, and if you want a setup that is stable use what DirecTV uses. It cost them more during installation but a lot less on call backs. Cable TV and off air signals are a deferent and simpler beast then satellite. DirecTV is headed toward wireless systems for in the home but the coax run from the dish to the SWiM or what it's replace it with will be there along with the voltage and a power inserter to make it work.
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post #21 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 12:49 PM
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The problems with channels not showing up is the lines, one is OLD, (25+ YRS), the Other was damaged by construction.
Yep, if the cable is damaged, it has to be replaced. Old cable isn't necessarily a problem, but if it has deteriorated, or just isn't up to increased requirements, it has to be replaced. If you have to rewire, I think the consensus would be to use RG-6.

Now to roil the waters once more: don't use quad shield.

Since you are going to be running cable, why not home run to both locations in the office? That way you have a single 4-way splitter with equal signal going to each outlet. FWIW I would not worry too much about splitting in your case. If there is a problem, you can either get the cable company to boost the signal on your drop or install a distribution amplifier.
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post #22 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Yep, if the cable is damaged, it has to be replaced. Old cable isn't necessarily a problem, but if it has deteriorated, or just isn't up to increased requirements, it has to be replaced. If you have to rewire, I think the consensus would be to use RG-6.

Now to roil the waters once more: don't use quad shield.

Since you are going to be running cable, why not home run to both locations in the office? That way you have a single 4-way splitter with equal signal going to each outlet. FWIW I would not worry too much about splitting in your case. If there is a problem, you can either get the cable company to boost the signal on your drop or install a distribution amplifier.


That's why I posted here, to get ideas I was over looking..

So, Single Line from the Service Drop to the Office, Then Single 4 Way Splitter (Living Area Box, Office Box, Modem, Upstairs Office.)

They might have to come out and replace/repair the drop anyway.

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post #23 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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So

From the Service Drop:
Female to Female Adapter, Screw on Service Line to one end, and the line to the Office to the other)

75-100ft RG6 (Wondering if I should just buy Pre-Cut Store Reel, or a Reel and put the ends on myself...)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882125438

To a 4-Way Splitter on the Office Wall
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882155484

Then Lines to Each Device (DVR1, DVR2, Modem, PC Tuner)
To Office DVR:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882125401

To Office Modem:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882125401

To Living Area DVR:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882125404

To Upstairs:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882125438


How do those lines look?

Pretty sure i should have a Surge Filter in there somewhere (prolly inplace of the female-female adapter?)

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post #24 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 02:43 PM
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You are spending to much!

Cable splitter:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042206&p_id=10015&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
$4

500' of RG6...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-500-ft-RG6-Coaxial-Cable-262-1062J/202206470#.Ue2mDFDD9hE
$37

Compression kit...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paladin-DataShark-Cable-Television-Satellite-Compression-Crimp-Kit-PA70019/100574595#.Ue2mO1DD9hE
$35

You can probably find a cheaper compression termination kit, but this was a quick search.

These are all quality products which will last you for years, and you generally want to take your coaxial connections to wall plates instead of have them hanging out of the walls, so you can get some F-type (coaxial) keystone inserts like these...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042605&p_id=6542&seq=1&format=2

and buy the wall plates you need...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051703&p_id=6725&seq=1&format=2

Then you can make the jumpers of the correct length that you need from the leftover cable of just pick up a few while shopping at Monoprice...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10216

Similar price, but you end up picking up some new tools along the way and will likely have some cable left over 'just in case'.

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post #25 of 45 Old 07-22-2013, 02:58 PM
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IIWY I would find an accessible, out of the way place for the splitter, like an attic or closet. My coax splits in the attic right above the access in a closet. All the outlets are home runned to there. My network switch is in the closet. All the ethernet lines are home runned to there. But if the office works for you, so be it.

You will find it much easier to run coax through walls and ceilings if it isn't terminated. IIWY I would buy bulk cable and terminate myself. Compression connectors are the state of the art, but cheap crimp connectors will work as well as the connectors on the pre-terminated cables you listed. Another reason to roll your own is that it is good to keep cables as short as possible, within reason.

$25 is way too much for a splitter. Should cost less than $5. Anything with a Monster label on it is likely to be over-priced.

There should be a grounding block where the coax enters the house. Assuming it is properly grounded, it will provide protection against surges on the shield of the coax. You can to add a coaxial surge suppressor which will also protect against a surge on the center conductor. Just replace the grounding block with the surge suppressor.
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post #26 of 45 Old 07-23-2013, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

$25 is way too much for a splitter. Should cost less than $5. Anything with a Monster label on it is likely to be over-priced.

There should be a grounding block where the coax enters the house. Assuming it is properly grounded, it will provide protection against surges on the shield of the coax. You can to add a coaxial surge suppressor which will also protect against a surge on the center conductor. Just replace the grounding block with the surge suppressor.


That's the part I need to get the Company to come out and check, along with their service drop. as Last time I had to replace a splitter there was no ground, from the service drop. so i ran a line from the service drop splitter into the ground about 4 feet.

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post #27 of 45 Old 07-23-2013, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

You are spending to much!

Cable splitter:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042206&p_id=10015&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
$4

500' of RG6...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-500-ft-RG6-Coaxial-Cable-262-1062J/202206470#.Ue2mDFDD9hE
$37

Compression kit...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paladin-DataShark-Cable-Television-Satellite-Compression-Crimp-Kit-PA70019/100574595#.Ue2mO1DD9hE
$35

You can probably find a cheaper compression termination kit, but this was a quick search.

These are all quality products which will last you for years, and you generally want to take your coaxial connections to wall plates instead of have them hanging out of the walls, so you can get some F-type (coaxial) keystone inserts like these...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042605&p_id=6542&seq=1&format=2

and buy the wall plates you need...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051703&p_id=6725&seq=1&format=2

Then you can make the jumpers of the correct length that you need from the leftover cable of just pick up a few while shopping at Monoprice...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10216

Similar price, but you end up picking up some new tools along the way and will likely have some cable left over 'just in case'.

Don't forget these:
http://www.showmecables.com/product/Holland-SLCU-6-f-type-compression-connector-snap-seal-rg6.aspx
A quick search too. We use the 2 piece belden compression ends at work, but the above should suffice. Might be able to find them cheaper if you look around the web.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70069063&mkwid=svrqbBkWJ&pcrid=23488146497&pkw=sns1p6&pmt=b&pdv=c&gclid=CIGV2d71xbgCFcmf4AodF0IAnA
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post #28 of 45 Old 07-23-2013, 08:52 AM
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Right, so I've tried using an amplified splitter because one channel that we aren't suppose to receive won't come in upstairs all of the sudden after the company did some sort of cable upgrade around town. It was after the upgrade to all digital cable. I had it laying around in the garage never used. I think the letter from the cable company mentioned something called FIOS and that they have determined that our current cable gateway (which is owned) isn't going to cut it any longer.
The problem is that the amplifier overpowers every tv and the cable gateway except the tv upstairs. The channel that we want to puck up goes from a 0 signal to an 80% signal but the cable gateway happens to be on that same cable run next to the tv because the Western Digital Smart TV hub is Ethernet only and not wireless capable.
My point I suppose is that the amplified splitters work really well. I need to isolate that particular TV's cable at some point to get the channel.
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post #29 of 45 Old 07-23-2013, 09:05 AM
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When you cut the center conductor of coax cable with wire cutters, there is usually a little burr on the center conductor. I get a little file and give it a few swipes on the tip to make it smoother. I also have a pair of cutters that have rounded cutting jaws which works better than regular cutters. That's just me being a little too fussy. Always liked making cables.

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post #30 of 45 Old 07-23-2013, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

You are spending to much!

Cable splitter:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042206&p_id=10015&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
$4

500' of RG6...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-500-ft-RG6-Coaxial-Cable-262-1062J/202206470#.Ue2mDFDD9hE
$37

Compression kit...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paladin-DataShark-Cable-Television-Satellite-Compression-Crimp-Kit-PA70019/100574595#.Ue2mO1DD9hE
$35

You can probably find a cheaper compression termination kit, but this was a quick search.

These are all quality products which will last you for years, and you generally want to take your coaxial connections to wall plates instead of have them hanging out of the walls, so you can get some F-type (coaxial) keystone inserts like these...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042605&p_id=6542&seq=1&format=2

and buy the wall plates you need...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051703&p_id=6725&seq=1&format=2

Then you can make the jumpers of the correct length that you need from the leftover cable of just pick up a few while shopping at Monoprice...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10216

Similar price, but you end up picking up some new tools along the way and will likely have some cable left over 'just in case'.





Thanks, This was a good read...



I think i have some stuff from a while back, but I'll prolly just get a new kit and a 500' reel, a bunch of end fittings and a 4 ways splitter,

-Clean up the service line drop, replace connector if it's corroded (prolly is)

-Run the main line from the Service drop to the void between the first and second floor,

-have it stop halfway between the north and south walls, there's a Access panel on the 2nd floor's wall for accessing the void at that spot, cut the line, install the connectors, Mount the 4 way splitter.

- Run Line 1 back down the void, have it come out of the ceiling right next to the TV Wall, Use Existing "raceway" to run down the wall to the TV, , tip the cable, connect to 4-Way splitter and DVR/TV1

- Run lines 2 and 3 the opposite direction down the void to the office wall, come through the ceiling and down the wall "raceway" to DVR/TV2, one line will be about 2 feet longer and goto the Modem. Tip the cables connect them to the splitter and TV/Modem.

- Run Line 4 Vertically from the void through the wall to the 2nd floor office (about 10 feet), come through dry wall next to PC Station, Install Wall Plate and

If adding wall plates doesnt effect the signal levels, I'll put Steel handy boxes and wall plates at all the exit points, then just make cables to go from the wall plates to the DVRs/Modems/PC Tuners.

But as it stands, there are already "Raceways/Covers" for Cat5 Cable Runs on the 1st floor's ceiling that literally run from room to room, so I can use those on the first floor, and then use handy box and wall plate for the 2nd floor outlet.


I May Also Install just a 3-Way Splitter, Until I actually get the Tuner Equipment for the 2nd Story Office (Save a few pennies now, and not split the signal as much.)
And Once the Tuner is installed in the 2nd story office, the 1st story DVR will be returned to Provider (2nd Story Tuner will be a 6 Tuner Cable Card network box, So I could simply unplug the 1st story office DVR Line and Plug in the 2nd story line later on).

I live next to a Home Depot... .... So.. buying from them is easy.

So:


A Good Splitter.
(Are the GE 4-Way 2500Mhz Splitters good?, I remember somewhere there was a list of brands to avoid.), and the GE Brand seem to have alot of customer reviews with Digital Cable Problems.

Should I just stick with buying Klien Tools brand, since everything else is from them.
Klien Tools 4-Ways 2Ghz+ Splitter
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-5-MHz-2-3-GHz-4-Way-Satellite-Digital-Cable-Splitter-VDV814-637/203579130#.Ue65AtLIGYw

this "Ideal" Brand splitter looks exactly like the Monster Splitter, and includes the same accessories:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-2-4-GHz-4-Way-Splitter-85-334/202276266#.Ue66JNLIGYw

3-Way Ideal Brand:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-2-4-GHz-3-Way-Splitter-85-333/202276265#.Ue67WdLIGYw



500' Spool,
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-500-ft-RG6-Coaxial-Cable-262-1062J/202206470#.Ue6xNtLIGYw

RG6 Compression Connector Kit: (comes with crimp, stripper, tester, 10 Connectors)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Coax-Installation-and-Testing-Kit-with-Connectors-VDV002-818/203799415#.Ue6xf9LIGYw

*10-Pack of Compression Fittings ( I'll need 18 minimum, so this pack plus the 10 that comes in the kit, if i use wall plates instead of the raceways).
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203578626?productId=203578626&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-3-_-203799415-_-203578626-_-N#.Ue6yM9LIGYx

*Single Port Wall Plate x2 :
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Single-Coax-Cable-Wall-Plate-White-40050/203822285#.Ue6wudLIGYw

*Dual Wall Plate:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Dual-F-Connector-Plastic-Wall-Plate-White-73223/202699692#.Ue6wNdLIGYw

*Steel Handy Box x 3
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-1-Gang-Handy-Box-Silver-5836112-30R/202601209#.Ue60DdLIGYw


*= If i decide not to just use the current raceways i have for the cat5.

I have plenty of planning time, so.... not gonna be doing this for at least a month from now.

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