Originally Posted by Dave G
Did the lower steps also disappear when you first set the Kuro to the lower gamma (2.13, 2.03)? If yes we might have an issue with the gamma factor; if not then maybe you're pushing the Kuro too hard. On My RS1 even 2.2 was a bit high for me, I think I settled around 2. Inky blacks and plenty of shadow details.
Re: parametric grayscale; I'll have to look into it, not sure that feature is implemented yet. Maybe Randy or Jim can chime in. (Edit: Gordon beat me to it.)
re: 10% step; it works for me last time I tried. Just keep in mind that pretty much any adjustment in the XD (grayscale, gamut) is extremely fine grained. You often need to move the control by a hundred or so (sometimes a lot more) before seeing changes.
I hadn't tried the Kuro with a lower Gamma setting before, so I just tried it... set Gamma to the #3 setting which measures about 2.03. Then I turned Brightness up a bit to get unambiguous viewing of what happens with the steps. With the Gamma factor set to 1.05, I could still see all the steps and 1% was definitely lighter than 0%. At 1.10, the 1% step became the same level as 0%. At 1.15, the 0, 1, and 2% steps were all at the same level as black and each additional increment of the Gamma Factor above that brought 1 more step to the same level as black. At the 1.30 G.F. setting, the 6% step was SLIGHTLY above black and 7-10% were distinct.
What I'm looking for re. Gamma is to get the midtones to not look too bright. Once you have seen midtones with a 2.4-2.5 Gamma, movies look more "artful" - even in flicks that aren't realy artsy pics... like Casino Royale, when the Gamma is in the 2.4-2.5 range, the lighting looks more "real" or "realisic" faces have more depth and details like shadows on faces are more dramatic. With the Gamma at 2.2 or 2.25, the same scene looks too brightly lit and faces become flatter... you don't notice facial contours as much and shots with a lot of depth (like the square in Venice from Bond's hotel room) seem flatter and not as interesting. Of course in getting the midtones to look right, I don't want to lose steps in the grayscale. I haven't had time to give the Kuro a second shot at 2.45 gamma using the 11-step controls... which brings me to another question...
With "IRE 10" selected, I can raise and lower that number with the up/down arrows and the ranges for red, green, blue, and luma also change. So that does appear to work OK. I thought I'd tried that before, but I guess not. In this case, it doesn't seem like IRE is being used correctly. Point 0 should say IRE 7.5, not 0 (everything is set to video levels). So the "IRE" control seems to be a % control, not really an IRE control? It certainly is easier to use as a % control than it would be if it was really using IRE units - most (all?) signal generators are using %. And among test/setup discs, I think only Avia is using IRE (I wish they'd give up on that to, it would make their discs easier to use for everybody). I'm in the camp that thinks it's time to let go of the IRE concept for digital displays. Having % and bits is ENOUGH!