DVDO EDGE !! - Page 241 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7201 of 7222 Old 04-04-2016, 01:30 PM
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DACs can make a massive improvement in quality over a laptop headphone jack. I had a $99 uDAC, now I'm using a Cambridge Audio integrated amplifier. But we're talking a $300 unit with preamp and amp in addition to the DAC, so it's not like I'm dropping thousands on this stuff. That's on my laptop, separate from my AV setup.

In theory, everything routes through the DVDO EDGE. Even before 4k, reality dictated that if you use Smart TV apps or Bluetooth or whole-home audio to your AVR, then there's going to be some detours in there somewhere. Now I've got a 4k TV with a TV backfeed for Smart Hub apps to the AVR, as well as a separate HDMI for bitstreaming audio from my 4k Blu-Ray player to my AVR. None of that touches the EDGE. The one annoyance with this setup is that the EDGE doesn't have a "native" output mode, because it was designed to handle all the scaling, but now I have to change the native from 1080i/p to 720p when watching 720p content. However, the last 720p thing that I can think of where I really care about the quality is the NCAA national championship tomorrow night on ESPN, so it won't be a big deal in practice, at least until next season. Rio is all NBC AFAIK, and they're 1080i, as is PBS and HBO, so I'll just leave the thing on 1080i and let the TV do the scaling, with the DVDO EDGE just doing some processing on the cable signal to try and make it look less crappy.
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post #7202 of 7222 Old 04-04-2016, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyrax View Post
Frankie -
I wasn't quite as clear as I intended in my description of option1. I left out the step telling you that you need to connect the TV's optical audio out to your speakers. Also, as M. Zillch says, it is unlikely that your TV's remote volume will impact your external speaker volume. I had a TV 20 years ago that would do that, but it was one of those behemoth tube TVs that seemingly weighed more than a Prius.
Hryax,

I understood that I needed to connect the optical audio out on my speakers to my TV. I know I won't be able to use my TV remote for volume, but I would still be able to adjust volume via the included remote, correct? Thank you!

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The use of outboard DACs is quite common in many audiophi......
Zilch,

The only reason I am using a DAC is because my TV has optical out only. I don't see any other way I could connect the A5+ to my TV without using a DAC. Am I missing something? I am not getting it to improve sound or anything like that. It just seems that it will be necessary in my setup.
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post #7203 of 7222 Old 04-04-2016, 06:49 PM
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I don't think you've ever mentioned to us what your TV is, specifically, but many have either audio out RCAs or a 3.5 mm headphone out which could be used with the right cord. What is your TV?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #7204 of 7222 Old 04-04-2016, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I don't think you've ever mentioned to us what your TV is, specifically, but many have either audio out RCAs or a 3.5 mm headphone out which could be used with the right cord. What is your TV?
So sorry for not mentioning it. It is a Panasonic ST50 series. It only appears to have a digital out on the back.

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post #7205 of 7222 Old 04-04-2016, 08:53 PM
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Bummer.


If instead of these amplified A5+ speakers you bought passive speakers , take for example the Audioengine P4 for $250, not that I know anything about them, and with the $150 savings put that towards an AVR such as maybe the DENON AVR-S500BT for $170, or a Yamaha, Sony, etc., all sorts of headaches would be solved. Complex AV systems which have to incorporate both an outboard video processor (such the EDGE) and alternative speakers (instead of the ones built-in to the TV) yet don't have an AVR in the mix aren't that common. This solution I'm suggest costs maybe about $20 more but considering you don't have to buy a long optical cable to get from the TV back to your DAC (also not needed), or whatever you end up using, it might actually cost less. Just a thought.


AVRs are a real work horse and although they can power 5 or more speakers they also work for stereo just fine and at a reasonable cost. Stereo receivers usually cost more and won't do what you want (take in the HDMI feed from the EDGE to extract the audio before sending the video off to your display).

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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post #7206 of 7222 Old 04-05-2016, 03:42 AM
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You better check to see, which signal is coming from optical out. Most TV`s output, the tuner audio, from optical out. If you are not using the internal tuner, you won`t get anything. If you are using a cable box, game console, bluray player. The easiest way is route all components to the Edge. Hook up Optical out from the Edge to the speakers. Then select Optical sound out in the Edge menu. This is what I do, while gaming with my Astro gaming headset. Then I control my volume on the headset. In your case, it would be the speakers remote.
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post #7207 of 7222 Old 04-05-2016, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Bummer.


If instead of these amplified A5+ speakers you bought passive speakers , take for example the Audioengine P4 for $250, not that I know anything about them, and with the $150 savings put that towards an AVR such as maybe the DENON AVR-S500BT for $170, or a Yamaha, Sony, etc., all sorts of headaches would be solved. Complex AV systems which have to incorporate both an outboard video processor (such the EDGE) and alternative speakers (instead of the ones built-in to the TV) yet don't have an AVR in the mix aren't that common. This solution I'm suggest costs maybe about $20 more but considering you don't have to buy a long optical cable to get from the TV back to your DAC (also not needed), or whatever you end up using, it might actually cost less. Just a thought.


AVRs are a real work horse and although they can power 5 or more speakers they also work for stereo just fine and at a reasonable cost. Stereo receivers usually cost more and won't do what you want (take in the HDMI feed from the EDGE to extract the audio before sending the video off to your display).
The biggest reason I am going with the A5+ is because I got a great deal on them. Less than 2 months old and I got them for $250. I don't really want to invest in a great AVR setup until I have my own house. I am currently in an apartment and wouldn't really be able to enjoy a proper AVR setup.
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post #7208 of 7222 Old 04-05-2016, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headcase151 View Post
You better check to see, which signal is coming from optical out. Most TV`s output, the tuner audio, from optical out. If you are not using the internal tuner, you won`t get anything. If you are using a cable box, game console, bluray player. The easiest way is route all components to the Edge. Hook up Optical out from the Edge to the speakers. Then select Optical sound out in the Edge menu. This is what I do, while gaming with my Astro gaming headset. Then I control my volume on the headset. In your case, it would be the speakers remote.
I agree with everything you said, but his speakers don't have an optical in, and the EDGE oddly doesn't have analog out. To me the best solution would be a $169 AVR and using it's headphone out with a simple adaptor cable (brand new ones come with it I believe) to feed his amplified speakers. The AVR also gives him a tremendously flexible building block for future upgardes such as adding a sub, surround sound, etc.. This or a cheap DAC, since even cheap ones are audibly indistinguishable from properly functioning ones which cost thousands of dollars, as are most receivers when the amps aren't being over driven.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 04-05-2016 at 11:34 AM.
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post #7209 of 7222 Old 04-05-2016, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I agree with everything you said, but his speakers don't have an optical in, and the EDGE oddly doesn't have analog out. To me the best solution would be a $169 AVR and using it's headphone out with a simple adaptor cable (brand new ones come with it I believe) to feed his amplified speakers. The AVR also gives him a tremendously flexible building block for future upgardes such as adding a sub, surround sound, etc.. This or a cheap DAC, since even cheap ones are audibly indistinguishable from properly functioning ones which cost thousands of dollars, as are most receivers when the amps aren't being over driven.
Thanks for your input as always. I got a cheap DAC for now ($15). I do want surround sound and I will get a nice AVR setup when the time comes. I am just real limited with an apartment. I don't really want to add a bulky AVR (Don't really have space for it right now) to my setup either for just a simple 2.0 setup.

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post #7210 of 7222 Old 04-05-2016, 08:19 PM
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Isn't there a headphone jack on the ST50? I saw a post stating there was one near the USB ports...
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...e#post22376079
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post #7211 of 7222 Old 04-06-2016, 04:51 AM
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Isn't there a headphone jack on the ST50? I saw a post stating there was one near the USB ports...
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...e#post22376079
Looks like it's on the European model. I have a US model. Would've been nice!
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post #7212 of 7222 Old 04-21-2016, 10:16 AM
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Just ordered one of these.

Can anyone confirm that it will be able to detect the cadence in a Netflix movie playing from a 60hz device, then be able to reverse telecine and send it to my projector at 24hz?

If yes, does it do it automatically?

Thanks
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post #7213 of 7222 Old 07-12-2016, 01:22 PM
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So about a year or so ago, I had the PSU on a DVDO Edge go out. I replaced it with the PSU mentioned earlier in the thread and it worked great. Fast forward to today, I have another Edge having a similar issue. I went to Mouser and that alternate PSU is on backorder for 13 weeks. That might be a bit long to wait without video switching on this TV.

So are there other PSUs that can be used for a DVDO Edge? I found these on Mouser that look close, would either of them work?

http://www.mouser.com/Cincon/Power/P...z0zlbjZ1yxt794
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post #7214 of 7222 Old 07-18-2016, 01:40 PM
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So about a year or so ago, I had the PSU on a DVDO Edge go out. I replaced it with the PSU mentioned earlier in the thread and it worked great. Fast forward to today, I have another Edge having a similar issue. I went to Mouser and that alternate PSU is on backorder for 13 weeks. That might be a bit long to wait without video switching on this TV.

So are there other PSUs that can be used for a DVDO Edge? I found these on Mouser that look close, would either of them work?

http://www.mouser.com/Cincon/Power/P...z0zlbjZ1yxt794
As I recall, the version you're linking to is simply the non-medical version. Both would work equally well. I seem to recall the medical version had a rotated power connector compared to the standard version. The medical version also had slightly better performance over temperature, but at room temperature they performed the same. I opted for the medical version for that reason, since it was not but a couple bucks more (at the time) than the standard.


Just check your connections. I believe both boards have labels for ground, power, etc. Make sure power is to power, and ground is to ground.


cheers,
..dane
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post #7215 of 7222 Old 07-18-2016, 01:55 PM
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Ken at DVDO was nice enough to send me a link to the "official" replacement. Just put it in, works great.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...IeCnWxjTRqs%3d
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post #7216 of 7222 Old 09-02-2016, 11:16 AM
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About a year ago, when boxing it up, I noticed the outer metal box had a sort of rubbery, almost sticky, uniform coating to it.
[...]
isopropyl alcohol. That did the trick.[After like half a bottle!]
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My Edge also had a sticky coating on it, mostly on the front plastic 'rim' at the front. The whole top/side panel is also kinda sticky, but no where near as bad as that front rim. I also found alcohol did a good job getting it cleaned, but I think it did so by taking a layer off the plastic, as the cloth was completely black. I think it's just the plastic/rubber these panels are made out of are degrading. I've got nothing sitting on top of mine.
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Yes, my cotton balls of alcohol turned black when I cleaned mine.

Interesting that this occurred to you too yet you are confident it wasn't from adhesive from another product above since there were none.


Update to this issue -- we just moved and during the process of tearing down the HT stack, my DVDO Edge, too, was all tacky on top. It's been in a rack in a cabinet for years with nothing on top of it (it gets way too hot to put anything on top of it!) ... I agree with @oryan_dunn in that it looks like they had coated the exterior casing with a type of rubbery substance that has degraded over time. I, too, used about a 1/4 bottle of isopropyl alcohol and it turned out great. Looks good as new, and no more sticky mess. I actually wonder if it will dissipate heat better now that it's just a clean metal surface instead of that somewhat rubbery coating that it had before...


cheers,
..dane
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post #7217 of 7222 Old 09-02-2016, 11:29 AM
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Sometimes you read about these things on the web and you think: "This guy is nuts. There' nothing special about the product that would make it sticky. He is imagining things!" I thought I was crazy when it happened to me. It is refreshing to learn that others experienced the same thing...Although I still may be crazy.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #7218 of 7222 Old 09-02-2016, 11:56 AM
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About a year ago I bought a new old stock edge 101 for a really good price as a backup. It still had the original firmware (which I promptly updated). Right out of the box, it was sticky. The alcohol trick didn't seem to work near as well on this one. It's been sitting on a shelf in my basement since. I should try to clean it up again...

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post #7219 of 7222 Old 09-02-2016, 12:05 PM
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I guess I need to add my name to those who are crazy. My Edge is also very sticky. Good to know that isopropyl alcohol should so the trick.
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post #7220 of 7222 Old 09-26-2016, 09:52 PM
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My EDGE has had a recurring problem which has resurfaced. The image has a strong purple cast to it, sort of like if a person pegs their tint control all the way in one direction but even worse. Sometimes it is purple over just a black screen and at other times you see the selected source image behind the purple . It will momentarily click back to normal for a moment, like for as few seconds, but then if anything changes like you invoke some menu changes on the source device it reverts back to purple.

Is there a master microprocessor reset function?
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post #7221 of 7222 Old 09-27-2016, 03:34 AM
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You don't say if you checked connectiions/cables.
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post #7222 of 7222 Unread Today, 09:20 AM
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As I mentioned this is a recurring and intermittent problem.[They are some of the hardest to diagnose.] Being stupid (or more to the point I should say "impatient") I disconnected and reconnected every single HDMI in the chain from source to monitor, watching the image each time to see at what point it might heal itself. This simultaneously does four things: it verifies a solid connection making sure there's a full contact on all HDMI pins, it scrapes off any oxide on the contact points, it reestablishes a new handshake, and there is often a slight surge in the HDMI board's output power as it reestablishes the "new" connection.

Here's where I goofed up: at one point I became a tad suspicious of a particular cord so I swapped it with another. The image came back! I then reconnected the old HDMI and the problem reoccurred. I then went back to the new cord and I was back to normal (cured), so it seems as if this HDMI went bad. How on earth can a never moved around, thick heavy gauge HDMI cord just die spontaneously for no reason?! Did the copper wear out? Weird.

The reason this method was bad is because I'll never know for sure what it was of the many steps I took which cured the problem, although it does seem to be this cable swap I did.

Anyway I seem to be back up and running. I am keeping my fingers crossed this should fix it.

Thanks for the suggestion.

P.S. I'm still interested in how to do a master reset of the microprocessor if anyone knows how. Thanks.

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