Official Lumagen RadianceMini 3D thread. - Page 49 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1441 of 1479 Old 01-11-2016, 11:37 PM
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Drem:

I replied to your email January 10 later that day, but since you asked about a response today (the 11th), I think your SPAM filter ate it. I know you have received an earlier email, but please check you SPAM filter (I sent it again) and put lumagen.com on your White List to avoid this (hopefully) in the future.
Thanks Jim. Not really sure what happened, but I find no reply (even in the spam/junkmail). I sent my questions again just now, from another email
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post #1442 of 1479 Old 01-13-2016, 12:05 AM
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To All:



A comment on the power supply:



Up until a year ago we used industry standard power supplies (both 5V and 12V) with 50000 hour average life (5.7 years). In Europe with 240 VAC power surges (and it turns out Florida power surges too) could take them out but other than that they have been very reliable.



A little over a year ago we did two things:



1) We stopped using 5 VDC power supplies for current products. This means that every component is isolated from the external power supply by an internal DC-to-DC power supply, which helps the unit tolerate a power surge if a surge gets through the external power supply. In the past, for 5 VDC units, we have had a power surge take out both the power supply and the unit. We believe using an external 12 VDC supply significantly reduces this risk.



2) All current Radiance units use a 12 VDC 5 Amp power supply with a average life rating from the manufacturer of 300000 hours. This equates to 34 years. While I can't be certain none have failed in the past year+ we have been shipping them, I can say I do not know of any failures with this new power supply. So the new ultra high reliability power supply has essentially eliminated power supply failures for the past year+ of sales. Of course at some point one or more will fail but the failure rate is expected to be very low.



We have always had a very low failure rate for Radiance units, including power supplies, other than accidental damage (which includes power surges). The new 12 VDC only supply voltage and 300000 hour MTBF power supplies will improve this even further.

Would you suggest to have our units on a UPS?


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post #1443 of 1479 Old 01-14-2016, 07:47 PM
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Would you suggest to have our units on a UPS?
A UPS is not a bad idea as long as all the home theater equipment is on teh same UPS, but you will do well if you have the Radiance, and all your home theater electronics, on a good quality surge suppressor.

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post #1444 of 1479 Old 01-28-2016, 05:49 AM
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Hello all.

I have a Lumagen Mini3D paired with my JVC X500R projector. I am trying to stream 4K material using a Roku 4 and so I added a Key Digital KD-HDFix22 for HDCP 2.2 handshake issues. The Lumagen sits between my AVR and projector.

For some reason (I think it is the Lumagen), my projector cannot display the 4K content when I connect my Roku 4 to the HD fix which is then connected to my AVR. When I bypass the Lumagen and AVR and connect the Roku and HD Fix directly to the projector I am able to stream 4K content. My AVR allows for 4K and HDCP 2.2 through the input I was using (Onkyo TX-NR636). So, I assume because the Lumagen doesn't have 4K capability it is the reason I can't stream 4K when it is in the chain? Does that sound right? If so, then when it comes time for UHD Blu-Ray, I won't be able to use the Lumagen as well, right?
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post #1445 of 1479 Old 01-28-2016, 09:54 AM
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Your lumagen processor is an SD and HD device....it cannot accept UHD material or output UHD signals regardless of whether there is no HDCP2.2 So you are correct in your assumption. I'd give Lumagen a call and ask about a favourable trade up to one of the new UHD capable models, which incidenally, offer superior image quality to the normal Radiance range with SD and HD sources....

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post #1446 of 1479 Old 01-30-2016, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordon Fraser View Post
Your lumagen processor is an SD and HD device....it cannot accept UHD material or output UHD signals regardless of whether there is no HDCP2.2 So you are correct in your assumption. I'd give Lumagen a call and ask about a favourable trade up to one of the new UHD capable models, which incidenally, offer superior image quality to the normal Radiance range with SD and HD sources....
Thanks. That's what I thought. One more question. When I try to take my Lumagen out of the chain and connect the HDMI out from the Lumagen and directly connect it to the HDMI out input of my receiver I cannot get an image on my screen. Instead, I get a brief flicker of an image no matter if I am watching TV, a Blu Ray or Apple TV. Any idea why that would be?
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post #1447 of 1479 Old 01-31-2016, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by drjay71 View Post
Thanks. That's what I thought. One more question. When I try to take my Lumagen out of the chain and connect the HDMI out from the Lumagen and directly connect it to the HDMI out input of my receiver I cannot get an image on my screen. Instead, I get a brief flicker of an image no matter if I am watching TV, a Blu Ray or Apple TV. Any idea why that would be?

I'm unclear what you are saying here.

Is it that you take the cable that would go from the lumagen to the display, disconnect it and then reconnect it to the HDMI OUTPUT socket on your receiver? When you do that you get no image on screen? If so, turn everything off at the power socket, wait a minute, then turn it all back on again and see what happens

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post #1448 of 1479 Old 02-01-2016, 05:51 AM
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I'm unclear what you are saying here.

Is it that you take the cable that would go from the lumagen to the display, disconnect it and then reconnect it to the HDMI OUTPUT socket on your receiver? When you do that you get no image on screen? If so, turn everything off at the power socket, wait a minute, then turn it all back on again and see what happens
Yes, that is what I am saying. Will give it a try. Thanks
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post #1449 of 1479 Old 03-04-2016, 09:01 AM
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Looking for some input here. I have a 2015 OLED that can use a little help post cal, it also seems to be a little week deinterlacing. I know its a 2160p panel, but I have been looking hard at the ee color box too. Considering Mini3D's are out there for decent pricing and they also procee 3D sources (ee color does not) it seems like it may be a better choice. I did notice the 3D lut on the lumagen is not as vast as the ee color (5x5x5 vs 17x17x17 IIRC).

Id love a 2143, but no way am I paying that price. My setup would be Dish DVR run into Oppo 103D, as well as 2D and 3D Blu-ray, all set to source direct and then fed to the Lumagen, and then LG.

Thanks for any insight.

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post #1450 of 1479 Old 03-04-2016, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
Looking for some input here. I have a 2015 OLED that can use a little help post cal, it also seems to be a little week deinterlacing. I know its a 2160p panel, but I have been looking hard at the ee color box too. Considering Mini3D's are out there for decent pricing and they also procee 3D sources (ee color does not) it seems like it may be a better choice. I did notice the 3D lut on the lumagen is not as vast as the ee color (5x5x5 vs 17x17x17 IIRC).

Id love a 2143, but no way am I paying that price. My setup would be Dish DVR run into Oppo 103D, as well as 2D and 3D Blu-ray, all set to source direct and then fed to the Lumagen, and then LG.

Thanks for any insight.
eeColor is 65^3, largest 3D LUT available and is a straight up LUT box. Lumagens include VP tools as well (if u need them).

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post #1451 of 1479 Old 03-05-2016, 01:14 PM
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How do you know it' is the mini and not another device in the system which is not working correctly? Have you contacted Lumagen or your retailer to try to get to the bottom of what is happening? What is the rest of your equipment. This is most often hdmi handshaking and can be caused by any of the devices in the chain and can be exacerbated by cables. There are also classic examples of display devices that are known to suffer from this, ie JVC X series (rs in USA) projectors where HDMI 1 input behaves differently to HDMI 2. So you get drop outs all the time on HDMI1 while the exact same scenario is completely robust on HDMI 2 (this is without a lumagen product in sight) I'd hope with some more information we can help you try to get a more robust solution
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Thanks for the reply. I have not reached out to anyone for support yet because I have not had time to characterize the problem fully or play with all the HDMI & EDID options in the Radiance. I recognize that the system is complicated by having an Anthem AV processor in the middle, and there may be more than one problem. For the purpose of this discussion, I only use Blu-ray players as sources (Sony 770, 790 set to 1080p with 24p and 3D set to AUTO, and Oppo 83 set to source direct). All sources are set to YCbCr 4:2:2 with no Deep Color or 4K and the Radiance output set to match.

I've been living with the slow, repeated handshakes for years. The Anthem is an AVM-50v3D model ...

However about a year ago I went to a digital projector (Sony 95ES) and things got worse instead of better. In addition to the above delays, when the system is powered-on cold I get a black screen despite the HDMI connection to the PJ being established (the OSD indicates HDMI1 is receiving an input signal). I have the PJ setup to display a blue background when there is no signal, which I never see unless I switch to the unused HDMI2 (thus confirming OSD indicates "x" when no signal is present). So the PJ thinks there is something to display but there is no picture present.

I did some troubleshooting today. I first tried cycling power on the source player, no effect; then the Anthem processor, no effect; then toggled input selection on the PJ, no effect (it went to the blue screen, as expected, then back to black). Only putting the Radiance in Standby for 5 seconds then turning it back ON resulted in the correct image appearing. I then turned the entire system OFF (my programmable remote turns everything off and on at once) and waited a few minutes for the PJ to finish its cooling cycle and shut down. I turned everything back on the same way as the first time and got an image right away! The only difference possible being the electronics were still warm as opposed to sitting all night.

I have recently started using "Split A/V" with the Sony 790 sending audio only to the Anthem and video directly to the Radiance Input 2. This seems to have reduced or sped-up the handshake delays I mentioned above but has done nothing to ameliorate the black screen on startup. I also noticed the Radiance had input Auto Select and Reselect features enabled which I have now disabled as I have programmed my remote macros to force selection of the correct inputs.
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I do a lot of debug by phone and I believe about 99% of the time this scenario is the HDMI cable, potentially made worse by a ground loop. People tend to be skeptical until they buy a better HDMI cable and it resolves the issue. I'm not talking an expensive cable. Often the more expensive cables are not as good as the well done generic HDMI cables.

Certainly cannot say this is true here, but I think the first step is to buy a 4k rated passive, or HDBaseT cable. NOTE: The Mini/XS/XD/XE were designed before the advent of Redmere active cables. The HDMI Standby output power is fused to meet the HDMI spec. They are not designed for Redmere. We have seen people use Redmere cables with these and have intermittent issues as the fuse drops the voltage as the Redmere scavenges power above the spec of HDMI. If you have a Redmere cable on the output of the Mini, this is likely a contributing factor.

Also note Radiance 2XXX units have enough power for a Redmere cable on their output (at least the Redmere cables we tested).
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Thanks Jim, this is news to me. Of course my black screen on startup problem started when I installed the new digital PJ and had to go from a simple 6ft HDMI cable on the Radiance Mini output to a smarter 35ft cable. I don't have a Redmere but I think my Planet Waves cable may have a similar circuit:

http://www.clrtec.com/index.php?rout...roduct_id=2124

As I said in my earlier post, temperature does seem to be a factor. If the system is "warm" it works; if left off for an hour it fails. I suppose I could try leaving the Radiance ON to characterize further.
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AVfile:
So thePlanet Wave cable you reference uses Redmere technology (or equivalent), and should not be used with the RadianceMini/XS/XD/XE. And allow me to repeat that Redmere can be used with the 2XXX units, and the 4k Radiance Pro (in Beta).

You can find a good passive HDMI cable, or use a passive cable plus HDMI extender (such as our VidExt), or HDBaseT, or an externally powered fiber extender.

All:
We do recommend turning the Radiance units off between use. With good HDMI cables this should not pose any issues unless other devices have HDMI power on order issues. In this case leaving the Radiance ON may make everything work better.
Time for a follow-up.

So I rearranged my Radiance mini 3D and HDMI cables so that the AVR is driving the long (active) cable to the projector and the Radiance is on the input of the AVR with only short cables touching it. I still get the "blank screen" problem when powering up to sources that are on the Radiance input. Sources that are directly on the AVR input do not have the problem.

Cycling the Radiance to Standby for 5 seconds and back ON ameliorates the problem. Is it possible the active HDMI cable is still screwing up the Radiance even though it is not connected directly to it?

Last edited by AVfile; 03-05-2016 at 01:19 PM.
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post #1452 of 1479 Old 03-07-2016, 11:44 PM
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Time for a follow-up.

So I rearranged my Radiance mini 3D and HDMI cables so that the AVR is driving the long (active) cable to the projector and the Radiance is on the input of the AVR with only short cables touching it. I still get the "blank screen" problem when powering up to sources that are on the Radiance input. Sources that are directly on the AVR input do not have the problem.

Cycling the Radiance to Standby for 5 seconds and back ON ameliorates the problem. Is it possible the active HDMI cable is still screwing up the Radiance even though it is not connected directly to it?
The RadianceMini is insensitive to power up order, but other devices can need to be either on first or on last, giving the unit on first time to power up before the later is turned on. If you turn the source on, say, 10 seconds before the Radiance Mini, and then turn the Mini on does that help?

It could be a marginal HDMI cable from the source, or from the Mini to the AVR. Note that not all sources can drive a Redmere cable if you are using one on any of the sources. The RadianceMini itself has a polyfuse set to the HDMI spec, which does not include power for Redmere. So the RadianceMini itself cannot reliably drive a Redmere cable since it requires power beyond the HDMI spec. NOTE: All current Radiance products (2XXX, and Raidance Pro) can drive Redmere cables.

As always all passive HDMI cables should be 6 feet or longer due to Cable EQ making the signal too hot on shorter HDMI cables.

If the only Redmere is on the AVRs output, and the AVR does not have a turn on issue with direct connected sources, that Redmere on the AVR output cannot affect the Radiance Mini operation (other than some kind of a ground loop).

You may want to give us a call at 503-574-2211 Option 2 for support.

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post #1453 of 1479 Old 03-07-2016, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
Lo... Considering Mini3D's are out there for decent pricing and they also procee 3D sources (ee color does not) it seems like it may be a better choice. I did notice the 3D lut on the lumagen is not as vast as the ee color (5x5x5 vs 17x17x17 IIRC)....
To be clear, the Radiance 21XX and Radiance Pro modes have a 17x17x17 3D LUT. This generally puts over 90% of the points in the <1 dE range, and the points with higher errors are usually due to limitations in the display itself.

There is very little, if any, visible benefit for display calibration going above 17x17x17.

We no longer sell the RadianceMini. Its replacement is the Radiance 2020 which has a 9x9x9 3D LUT, which can also do a very good job calibrating a consumer display.

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post #1454 of 1479 Old 03-12-2016, 09:27 AM
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If the only Redmere is on the AVRs output, and the AVR does not have a turn on issue with direct connected sources, that Redmere on the AVR output cannot affect the Radiance Mini operation (other than some kind of a ground loop).
That is correct. No Redmeres on the RadianceMini input or output, but very little improvement there.

Quote:
The RadianceMini is insensitive to power up order, but other devices can need to be either on first or on last, giving the unit on first time to power up before the later is turned on. If you turn the source on, say, 10 seconds before the Radiance Mini, and then turn the Mini on does that help?
Now that does seem to help. With source and display on first (Radiance and Anthem on 6 seconds later) I can now see the image attempt to stabilize and lock on a few seconds later. It goes quickly from snow to purple image to correct image. Before the image would remain blank, not even the Radiance status menu would appear, until Radiance power was cycled. Why would I need to have a source on for the Radiance menus to appear?

I can see why some people choose to leave the Radiance on all the time.

Thank you,
Stefan

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post #1455 of 1479 Old 03-21-2016, 09:12 PM
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I just bought a Mini-3D and am having a major problem.

My sources are an Oppo 103, DirecTV, and PC Screen; each an input on my Marantz AV8802a.

The output goes to go to a Darbee, then to the Mini-3D, and then to my Sony 40es projector. (I have tried the Darbee last, too.) The video processing is disabled on the Marantz AV8802, as well.

All of my cables are 6' long except the cable going to the projector which is a Blue Rigger (I think) 35' HDMI cable purchased in the last year or two.

I'm having a problem that is hard for me to describe, so please bear with me.

No matter which input I use, the dark gray's and all of the blacks have these weird artifacts that look like a combination of block like Mosaic, Noise, and Solarisation effects.

I don't notice this on any color except dark gray's and blacks, though it is worse on the blacks.

I've tried setting my projector to regular HDMI and Full (PC Level) HDMI and have tried turning off the Darbee and all other effects and options in the chain but nothing makes a difference.

I've tried resetting the Lumagen, too. No matter what I do, this mosaic blockiness looks like the blacks are drawn with an ink pen then someone spilled water on the page and it created this ink "blob" with no real definition to the pattern. All the blacks in the image are distorted. The noise patterns are totally random blobs but within those blobs there is noise, mosaic patterns, etc.

I don't know what this problem is actually called or what it is caused by. I don't know what to try next? I feel like I've tried everything, including a reset to the Lumagen, so I don't know what is going on.

Thanks so much for any help any of you can give.

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post #1456 of 1479 Old 03-22-2016, 07:24 AM
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Well, it sounds similar with a problem I had with a 2143 unit.

Try to disable the deinterlacer chip (to check if it faulty) to see if it fixes up the issues. To do that when there is no menu displayed on the screen, press MENU+0939. You will see a message "deint disabled" or something like that. To enable it, just press again MENU+0939.

Alternatively, you can do the same, by enabling Game Mode on your settings (which does exactly the same thing. Turns off the deintelacer)

To sum it up. If by enabling/disabling the chip, you see an improvement in your picture, it means the probably the chip has failed.

When you see no difference, this means the chips works fine and have to look for other solutions
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post #1457 of 1479 Old 03-22-2016, 07:30 AM
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Thanks,

I will give that a try, but everything I've tested so far has been 1080p going in to the Lumagen, so it hasn't been doing any deinterlacing.

I'll still give it a try, but just wanted to clarify that point.

Still looking for more suggestions, too. I just bought this unit from a reputable member, but if it is broken, I need to contact him ASAP.

Thanks again,

--J

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post #1458 of 1479 Old 03-22-2016, 07:54 AM
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Thanks,

I will give that a try, but everything I've tested so far has been 1080p going in to the Lumagen, so it hasn't been doing any deinterlacing.

I'll still give it a try, but just wanted to clarify that point.

Still looking for more suggestions, too. I just bought this unit from a reputable member, but if it is broken, I need to contact him ASAP.

Thanks again,

--J
It doesn't matter if it deinterlaces or not the signal. If the chip is faulty, it messes up the picture, regardless of the signal being progressive or interlaced.

If, indeed this is the problem, keep the chip disabled and you will only have problems with interlaced material. The progressive material, will play fine.

Last edited by Surfdrifter; 03-22-2016 at 08:08 AM.
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post #1459 of 1479 Old 03-22-2016, 08:19 AM
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yes as surfdrifter says the signal needs to route through the vxp chip to de-interlace and to to noise reduction and sharpness enhancement. If you go go game mode it bypasses them. If you are not using sharpness or noise reduction and are just sending progressive signals though the unit you will possibly get a better image in game mode.

i've not seen the blocking in dark areas like you describe with a failed vxp chip but it's worth trying out for sure.

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post #1460 of 1479 Old 03-22-2016, 02:48 PM
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I used to run everything through an HDMI switch into the Oppo 103 because of its video scaling and the great remarks it gets.

Then, shortly before I got the Mini-3D I got rid of the HDMI switch and no longer run anything through the Oppo. The Oppo is now just another source.

I did that because I assumed the Radiance Mini was a much better device and would do a much better job than the Oppo.

I'm not a videophile. I spend most all of my time on the audio side of things, so I just assumed everything going through the Radience would give better results than the much less expensive Oppo 103. Is the Oppo that good?

So that means I would like to be able to use the Radiance Mini on my DirecTV box, set to native and my Oppo since it's now set to Source Direct.

Just to be clear, if I don't see the problem when deinterlacing is turned off but I do when it is turned on, that means this Mini-3D is defective?

Also, to be clear, you have never heard of this phenomenon or any errors like this from anyone else?

I'm sorry if I misunderstood what either of you were saying. I'm very new to this.

Thanks for your time and help,

--J

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post #1461 of 1479 Old 03-22-2016, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevansoh View Post
Just to be clear, if I don't see the problem when deinterlacing is turned off but I do when it is turned on, that means this Mini-3D is defective?

Also, to be clear, you have never heard of this phenomenon or any errors like this from anyone else?
I'm pretty sure that's what they're saying. I had a similar sounding problem on my Radiance XE years ago. It was a bad solder joint on one of the boards and I returned it for repair.

Contact Lumagen, send them photos of what you see on the screen, and they will take care of you.
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post #1462 of 1479 Old 03-22-2016, 08:34 PM
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Thanks for the info and clarification.

I bought this used from @COACH2369 just a few days ago and I know he is a reputable member here.

I'm sure he'll take care of it if it is defective.

I'll try to reproduce the error and actually get some photographs tonight then share them with Lumagen tomorrow.

Why can't anything in my life ever be easy?

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post #1463 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevansoh View Post
Thanks for the info and clarification.

I bought this used from @COACH2369 just a few days ago and I know he is a reputable member here.

I'm sure he'll take care of it if it is defective.

I'll try to reproduce the error and actually get some photographs tonight then share them with Lumagen tomorrow.

Why can't anything in my life ever be easy?
Yes, we are saying that if you see the errors with game mode OFF but not with game mode ON then the unit is defective and you should try to get your money refunded.

A working Radiance, set up optimally, should give you superior image quality than using internal processing in your Oppo for sure....
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post #1464 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 05:06 AM
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I really appreciate that clarification.

Do you have any idea what it would cost to fix it?

Also, I used a lot of words to try and describe the problem and tried to describe it several different ways hoping someone would understand what I was trying to say because I've never seen anything like it.

Do you know what the problem is, technically? Does it have a name? I just want to make sure it's the same thing I'm seeing since I am not quite sure I ever explained it exactly right.

I figure if anyone can put a name to what I am seeing, I can look up other examples (once I know what I'm looking for) to be sure that's the problem I'm having.

I just want to be sure so I know exactly what to tell the seller.
@COACH2369 is an honest fellow and I'm sure I won't have any troubles, but he did say only a week before I bought it he still had it in use.

Do you know what could have caused the problem all of a sudden? I'm just curious and trying to learn more.

One last thing, you mention "a properly set up" unit will be superior to the Oppo. The menus are very difficult for me to understand and quite frankly, I've never had a piece of equipment so intimidating in my life. There are so many menus and sub-menus and I have gotten totally lost in them trying to figure it out.

Is there a quick start guide anyone put together to give the best "standard" settings that would look best on most people's displays?

The manual will only get me so far, too. Any suggestions on how to learn the basics (a crash course) on how to use the Lumagen for the best results without yet having test equipment?

Thanks for everyone's help. I sincerely appreciate your time and effort in helping me get this problem identified and solved and for helping me with the basics of the setup and how to get started.

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post #1465 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 08:27 AM
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Have you tried to disable the chip yet or not?


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post #1466 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 10:18 AM
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Indeed....turn on game mode and see if it changes

If you set your sources to native output (source direct) and just plug them in to Mini3D with it on default settings you should get better image quality.

I'd set the HDMI OUTPUT STYLE to have an HDMI format of 422 COMPONENT. as a starting change
I'd also look at trying sharpness on 2,2,2,0,0,0 from top to bottom on menu tree.

The other optimal settings is to use the calibration tools in the unit to get very accurate colour and gamma from your display. That requires tools or a professional calibrator with experience of lumagen processors but that is what will really make the image great.


have a look for examples of macro blocking or posterisation and see if any match what you are seeing

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post #1467 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 01:55 PM
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I am the original owner of this unit, so I thought I would jump in and make a comment.

This unit was purchased in October 2012 and had always been used as part of a calibration with my projector. ChadB is my calibrator and can back me up about it working when he was at my house two weeks ago. He took it out of the chain when he calibrated my new JVC projector.

I am a novice and don't know what the settings are currently on it, but they would have been the same settings he last put into it when he did my previous projector.

The unit worked flawlessly for 3.5 years while it was in my system.

Chad is in the middle of a west coast tour so he is hard to get a hold of right now. I have reached out to him to see if he can help us out some.

Thanks.
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post #1468 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 04:44 PM
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Thanks @COACH2369 et al,

Just to be abundantly clear, the thought did not cross my mind even one time that you intentionally sent me a non-working unit.

I'm sure something happened in transit, when it was being unplugged, or plugged in.

Although I'm positive it was working fine when it left, as you say, something has happened to cause this problem.

All I did was unbox it and plug it in.

So I don't think either of us are at fault; things just happen sometimes.

The question is, where do we go from here?

It may be more appropriate to take that conversation offline.

I hate that this has happened but I'm sure you'll agree that in order to make this right I would need either a refund or to be reimbursed for the cost to fix it.

I am going to email Lumagen directly in just a few moments, direct them towards this thread, and ask them how much it would cost to fix this unit.

You have my email address. Maybe we should talk further about how it will be resolved offline.

Again, I'm sure it was working when you last used it and at no time has the thought crossed my mind that you purposely sent me a defective unit.

Thanks to everyone for all of your help,

--J

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post #1469 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 04:55 PM
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I watched a few hours of Netflix and DirecTV last night.

I didn't select "Game Mode" at first, rather I did the Menu 0939 command to turn the deinterlacer on and off a few times.

Near the end of my viewing session I turned the Game Mode off and on a few times.

Here's the thing. As mysteriously as the problem started, it has temporarily, at least, seemed to subside.

This is now an intermittent problem which is even harder to diagnose and fix.

It's extremely frustrating because the problem was there continuously until I decided to pick up a camera to document it. As soon as I did that, the problem hasn't shown back up!

Is it possible (and if so, is it likely?) that by performing the Menu 0939 command several times and by selecting Game Mode off/on a few times that it somehow cleared the problem?

Is it likely the problem will come back again?

Now my concern is that we'll all agree it was just some anomaly and won't happen again, then a month or two from now it will happen again and I'll be stuck with a faulty unit.

I will watch more tonight and try my best to capture some images and video of the problem.

By the way, I went all the way up to 5 on the top three sharpness settings after seeing what "2" did and it looks great!

I wanted to try and trigger the problem so I figured the more I could ask the processor to do, the better the chance of triggering the problem. I ended up turning the noise reduction features up a good amount and a few other misc things and am actually surprised at how much better the picture looked overall!

I think once I somehow learn all there is to learn about the settings, get some equipment and software for a calibration, and ensure I have a fully working unit that I'm going to be very happy with this purchase.

Thanks,

--J

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post #1470 of 1479 Old 03-23-2016, 07:01 PM
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Does anyone have any suggestions for some entry level (and relatively easy to use) software/hardware so I can learn how to do a calibration?

I was looking at Calman and ChromaPure but the buy-in for those software packages with autocalibrate and a meter is very expensive.

Are there any other cheaper options that might also allow me to use the same meter with one of the previously mentioned pieces of software if I ever decide to upgrade?

How would you get started if you were a total "noob" to Video processing?

Thanks,

--J

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