Official Lumagen RadianceMini 3D thread. - Page 50 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1471 of 1483 Old 03-24-2016, 01:19 AM
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I think lightIllusion do a free version of Lightspace. You could get an i1DisplayPro probe and start playing with that in order to learn. Then, when you are happy you have an understanding you can pay to upgrade it to do the LUT creation that wil use the power of the Lumagen the best.

I thin kit unlikely that turning game mode on and off is what caused the problem to go away. The MENU XXXX shortcut and going in and doing Game mode on and off are the same thing, just different ways of doing it.

Is it the same content you are watching that showed the problems previously?
Next time it appears (if it does) navigate to the Lumagen test patterns and go to the ones which are NOT labelled REFERENCE and when you get to the APL contrast 1 pattern press 4 on lumagen remote to go to the contrast 2 low APL pattern. See whether it is being displayed properly and report back your findings.

oh, and if you haven't done it already, Make sure you have cleared out all the settings ChadB will have put in the thing when he did last calibration with it. To do that press MENU 0 9 9 9 OK on remote then MENU>SAVE>SAVE>SAVE...if you do not save then it will revert back to it's last saved state every time you switch it back on.

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post #1472 of 1483 Old 03-24-2016, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevansoh View Post
Also, I used a lot of words to try and describe the problem and tried to describe it several different ways hoping someone would understand what I was trying to say because I've never seen anything like it.

Do you know what the problem is, technically? Does it have a name? I just want to make sure it's the same thing I'm seeing since I am not quite sure I ever explained it exactly right.
I found some photos of what my Radiance was doing. Does this look like the same problem?

Spoiler!
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post #1473 of 1483 Old 03-24-2016, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post
I found some photos of what my Radiance was doing. Does this look like the same problem?

Spoiler!
Thanks for the examples. That really helps, actually.

Your entire picture was affected.

With mine, it "only" affects the blacks. The rest of the picture is flawless.

If I imagine what yours was doing, applying it only to the blacks, then it is similar, but not exactly the same.

What mine is/was doing isn't quite so bad, even applying it only to the blacks.

Here's the best way I can explain it. Imagine what yours was doing in those pictures, but only applied to blacks.

Then also imagine the same thing yours was doing, to the blacks, but not to "all" of the blacks. If there was a black "box" on the screen, for instance, only the inner 2/3 of that box looked similar to what yours was doing. The outer third, the outline, was always clear and fine just like the rest of the colors.

Does this new description with the aid of your images help define any better what mine is doing intermittently?

Thanks,

--J
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post #1474 of 1483 Old 03-25-2016, 01:06 AM
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your issue sounds like something i've seen on my own plasma tv when i used a manufacturers auto calibrate feature and it did not do any adjustment of the 5% stimulus level. The native gamma of the display was around 1.8 and the auto calibrate, having not adjusted the low end, made the image look very weird and posterised but only in the low stimulus levels.

It could be, i guess, that you have not rest the CMS stuff from previous owner and the corrections for his display were being applied to your quite different display. This is just speculation. If you've done a complete reset and it's all ok then i'd just carry on

Gordon

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post #1475 of 1483 Old 03-30-2016, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon Fraser View Post
I think lightIllusion do a free version of Lightspace. You could get an i1DisplayPro probe and start playing with that in order to learn. Then, when you are happy you have an understanding you can pay to upgrade it to do the LUT creation that wil use the power of the Lumagen the best.
Thanks, Gordon. This sounds like a perfect plan and this way I won't waste money on a device that wouldn't also work with the Lumagen.

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I thin kit unlikely that turning game mode on and off is what caused the problem to go away. The MENU XXXX shortcut and going in and doing Game mode on and off are the same thing, just different ways of doing it.
I understand. Is there anything you can think of that would cause a problem such as I have described to be intermittent? I have tried to many different settings and made so many different changes, just exploring the capabilities of the Lumagen that I feel I must've accidentally "fixed" the problem or it is a hardware problem that is intermittent in nature. Is is possible that in shipping from TN to OH something got knocked loose and maybe that is what is causing the problem? Is there any chip or part inside the Lumagen that I might try reseating or looking at to make sure it didn't come loose?

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Is it the same content you are watching that showed the problems previously?
Next time it appears (if it does) navigate to the Lumagen test patterns and go to the ones which are NOT labelled REFERENCE and when you get to the APL contrast 1 pattern press 4 on lumagen remote to go to the contrast 2 low APL pattern. See whether it is being displayed properly and report back your findings.
It does seem to be the same content. When I first saw it, I was watching, "Air Crash Investigations" on DirecTV. This program airs on the NatGEO channel which is broadcast in 1080i.

Although the original problem I described (which was also the worst problem I've had with the Lumagen since I received it a few weeks ago) hasn't reappeared, just last night I was watching the new episode (for the first time) of the same program on the same channel and sure enough, there was a problem. It was a bit different, though.

This time, the blacks weren't affected, or if they were, they weren't affected any more than any other color. Instead, sometimes things got "blocky" during fast motion. It was almost as if when there was motion, half of the image kept moving along correctly while the other half was a frame or a few frames behind which created these blocky artifacts in half of the picture.

I haven't seen the problem on ANY 1080p sources. I have only seen a problem (although there have now been two different problems) on 1080i content for certain, and possibly on 720p content, but I'm still watching out for that, to be certain, now that I know what I'm looking for.

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oh, and if you haven't done it already, Make sure you have cleared out all the settings ChadB will have put in the thing when he did last calibration with it. To do that press MENU 0 9 9 9 OK on remote then MENU>SAVE>SAVE>SAVE...if you do not save then it will revert back to it's last saved state every time you switch it back on.
Thanks for the tip. I reset it first thing when I received it and I've reset it several times since, after messing around with some settings just to try to familiarize myself with the device.

I really don't know what to do at this point. I haven't spoken with COACH directly and feel I should probably do that next, but I don't really know what to say.

I cannot reproduce the first problem and now I see this second problem, but it's not as bad, is harder to describe, and it isn't happening on "all" content.

I don't want to put him out or cost him money, but at the same time, I don't want to pay for something that doesn't work right.

If only this were a consistent problem, I could take photos, it could be diagnosed, and Coach and I could work something out.

Thanks for your time and effort in assisting me with this.

It's much appreciated,

--J
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post #1476 of 1483 Old 03-30-2016, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon Fraser View Post
your issue sounds like something i've seen on my own plasma tv when i used a manufacturers auto calibrate feature and it did not do any adjustment of the 5% stimulus level. The native gamma of the display was around 1.8 and the auto calibrate, having not adjusted the low end, made the image look very weird and posterised but only in the low stimulus levels.

It could be, i guess, that you have not rest the CMS stuff from previous owner and the corrections for his display were being applied to your quite different display. This is just speculation. If you've done a complete reset and it's all ok then i'd just carry on

Gordon
That's interesting, Gordon.

The first thing I did when I got the unit was look up how to do a reset and performed the reset.

I "might" not have saved it properly the first time I did it, as I've noticed since then a message appears saying things have changed since the last save, even when the thing that changed was the reset itself.

Even if I didn't save the original reset by accident, I never turned the unit off and back on.

In fact, it's been "on" the whole time. There isn't a physical power button and I haven't programmed the on/off sequence into my remote control program yet since I didn't know if I would be keeping it due to the problems I'm having.

Is it safe to leave it on 24/7/365 or should it be turned off via the remote control's "power" button between each use?

Thanks,

--J
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post #1477 of 1483 Old 03-30-2016, 04:34 AM
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no problem leaving it on all the time. i leave my units on all the time.

there is nothing internal that can be knocked or moved that can cause this. Everything on a mini is on one main pcb.

What you are describing on this channel is block noise compression artefacts. If stuff looks blocky, just on one channel or one programme, it's because the content is poor quality. Nothing wrong with the processor....nothing you can do about that except turn up the block noise reduction on the mini...but that'll make good progamming look worse while mitigating the crap quality of this channel...

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post #1478 of 1483 Old 03-30-2016, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon Fraser View Post
no problem leaving it on all the time. i leave my units on all the time.

there is nothing internal that can be knocked or moved that can cause this. Everything on a mini is on one main pcb.

What you are describing on this channel is block noise compression artefacts. If stuff looks blocky, just on one channel or one programme, it's because the content is poor quality. Nothing wrong with the processor....nothing you can do about that except turn up the block noise reduction on the mini...but that'll make good progamming look worse while mitigating the crap quality of this channel...
I LOVE my mini...I wish they didnt stop making it!! in fact I wish they would make another mini that supports 4k and hdr that was affordable...perhaps someday

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post #1479 of 1483 Old 03-30-2016, 07:03 PM
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I love the "idea" of the mini and will have my 2.35 screen installed on Monday, so I can't wait to use the NLS feature, which is the reason I bought it.

I must admit I wish they were more affordable, too, though because I'd love to have Darbee built in and it would be nice to have a rack mountable version.

I've heard of a lot of people who, like me, have purchased a Lumagen just (or at least, mainly) for the NLS feature, so I bet there would be a market for an affordable stripped down version of the newer kind that will support 4k.

My concern now is that I cannot reproduce the problem. At the same time, I've learned the problem I had cannot be caused by some glitch in the software and must have been caused by faulty hardware.

I bought it used with no warranty and every day I wait to take some type of action, the less likely the seller is going to want to work with me.

However, I cannot and will not lie and say the problem still exists, so I'm really stuck here.

What is the right thing to do? What is the ethical thing to do?

I don't want to be stuck with this thing if it's going to die soon, but again, I can only wait so long before asking @COACH2369 to step up and assist, too.

I sure could use some guidance here.

If it's a physical problem (bad chip) why the heck won't it rear its ugly head again?

Thanks,

--J
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post #1480 of 1483 Old 06-03-2016, 01:46 PM
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Can someone explain the difference between the Fixed Zoom vs Variable Zoom method?

I'm reading the pdf but they look similar (zoom to fill the 2.35 screen so the image spills over) so obviously I'm missing something. Which method I should go with so I'm not losing resolution.


PS:I have a 2.35 screen and Sony HW55 and a Lumagen mini.

__________________________________________________ _______________________________________

FIXED:
The zoom setting on a 16:9 projector is adjusted so that the image fills the width of a 2.35 screen. The non-active image spills over the top and bottom of the screen.

The projector zoom is fixed at this setting. If you are using a 1080p projector, 1080p 2.35 letterboxed video sources are not scaled. i.e. When you play a Bluray 2.35 movie, the Radiance scalier is
turned off and the image is displayed at a 1:1 ratio. The 4:3 and 16:9 images are scaled down to fit inside the height of the screen.

This is referred to as a “constant image height” system.

__________________________________________________ _______________________________________

VARIABLE:

The lens zoom setting, on a 16:9 projector, is adjusted to display a 16:9 image or a 2.35 image, on a 2.35 screen.

This is referred to as a “constant image height” system.

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post #1481 of 1483 Old 06-03-2016, 02:14 PM
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Can someone explain the difference between the Fixed Zoom vs Variable Zoom method?

PS:I have a 2.35 screen and Sony HW55 and a Lumagen
In the fixed configuration, the lens on your Sony is always left alone. You zoom the projector once so it fills the width of the screen; when watching 2.35 content you see full resolution of 1920x810 but for 16:9 images using the scaler the resolution is only 1440x810.

For the variable zoom method, you would zoom your projector down for 16:9 so you can use the full 1920x1080 and re-zoom for 2.35 to utilize 1920x810. As your Sony does not have lens memory this would be a manual process.
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post #1482 of 1483 Old 06-04-2016, 10:37 AM
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In the fixed configuration, the lens on your Sony is always left alone. You zoom the projector once so it fills the width of the screen; when watching 2.35 content you see full resolution of 1920x810 but for 16:9 images using the scaler the resolution is only 1440x810.

For the variable zoom method, you would zoom your projector down for 16:9 so you can use the full 1920x1080 and re-zoom for 2.35 to utilize 1920x810. As your Sony does not have lens memory this would be a manual process.
Thx jjcook.

I'll try to set the configuration that way. So, it seems this is just a 1000 dollar switch to hop between aspect ratios. Before I bought it, I was hearing about all sorts of features that this device has but the calibrator didn't use anything (said not required at all). In hindsight, I should've spend this money on a better PJ.

What do others use it for other than the aspect switching feature? I understand for older devices it helps with color/grayscale tuning but what does it do for newer PJ's/TV's?
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post #1483 of 1483 Old 06-05-2016, 01:09 AM
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Thx jjcook.

I'll try to set the configuration that way. So, it seems this is just a 1000 dollar switch to hop between aspect ratios. Before I bought it, I was hearing about all sorts of features that this device has but the calibrator didn't use anything (said not required at all). In hindsight, I should've spend this money on a better PJ.

What do others use it for other than the aspect switching feature? I understand for older devices it helps with color/grayscale tuning but what does it do for newer PJ's/TV's?

If your calibrator did not use any of the features in the mini with your projector he should try a different job. The mini3D has 21 point gamma and 125 point LUT BASED colour calibration tools that are way beyond what is in your projector. Using those tools properly he would have been able to get you a more accurate image that was visibly superior for SD and HD sources fed through the mini as well as allowing you the instant aspect ratio control. Also, the upscaing in the mini is superior to that in any source or dvd player or the projector so if you had any SD content and those sources were optimally set up you would again get superior image quality.

I suspect the person you got in did not use the Lumagen because he had little or no experience of the thing or did not have suitable software or hardware tools to do a decent job with it.

In answer to your question about what it can do with newer sets the answer is exactly the same as above
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