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post #361 of 8104 Old 06-03-2012, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Hopefully I'll end up with a solution for the Blu-Ray handshake issue because it would be a shame not to be able to use this thing, now that I've experimented with it.

I think I'll just be repeating what everyone else says if I describe what it seems to do. At first I was a bit underwhelmed is inserting it into the chain. I did notice a difference in sharpness (on Hi-Def and Pop modes) but not necessarily a "wow." It didn't immediately seem like it was a difference I'd know was there unless I actually A-B'd the processing in on/off mode.

But over time I really came to appreciate it's effects as I watched more material I'm familiar with. Like everyone else says, the effect is to sharpen up the image and along with that increase the sense of dimensionality in doing so, but pushing the settings too high can start to make the image look obviously enhanced, where I can't help but be thinking I'm seeing the Darblet processing rather than how the actual image was shot.

Although I haven't done a lot of testing in the "Pop" mode, I did notice it tended to add a more aggressive look, with more obvious haloing or rising of the bright contoured areas, whereas the Hi-Def mode was more subtle - the brightness of the neighboring brightness areas wasn't pushed as bright, but it was still enough to increase the perception of sharpness and depth.
So I stuck with the HiDef mode, and tended to use between 30 to 70 percent adjustment, mostly around 35 to 50.

Even at a setting of 30 when I A/B the image it looks like, as others have said, a scrim of softness is removed from the image with the Darblet engaged. Clearer detail, like putting a better lens on the image.

As I've mentioned, I own the JVC RS55 projector, which does an optical/processing trick of increasing pixel count to 4K, and then offers it's own level of processing to further increase sharpness and dimensionality. The processing is merely under the label "MPC" settings, from 1-3. Like the Darblet, these MPC controls do not seem exactly like sharpness or standard detail enhancement controls (the JVC offers those separately as well). The processing seems to do something similar to the Darblet: some sort of playing with gamma or contrast at fine levels, to bring out visible detail, sharpness etc. Putting the MPC levels at +3 really does subtly but distinctly make the image look more dimensional and sharper, like you can see all the way into the background for fine detail.

Since the Darblet would be expected to have a similar result I wanted to compare the two. I chose a scene from Avatar, the shot were Steven Lang (Colonal Quaritch) finishes pumping weights and sits up to talk to Jake. It's a nice long shot with tons of available detail, with his figure against a fairly dark background - great for increasing dimensionality.

This showed what I liked and didn't like about the Darblet processing. The overhead lighting on Lang places fairly bright highlights on his nose area. This is just the type of area in an image were, if calibration or processing is aggressive (e.g. contrast set too high, clipping etc) you start getting that too stark or clipped white cheaper video look to an image, vs a more balanced film look. As I turned up the Darblet and the contrast increased, Lang's skin became more palpable and "there" and detail came out in his hair and face. But at the same time those bright highlights around his nose started becoming so bright and pronounced they became distractingly artificial - it started looking pushed, processed, unnatural and more video-like vs film like or real.

This was a sort of worst-case scenario type shot for the Darblet in terms of introducing this effect, but I wanted to get a good idea of what is going on.
As I remember, the Darblet dialed to around 30 or 35 visibly increased image clarity on this shot, while not looking too video like. But if I were to take the movie as a whole, I could leave it dialed up higher, say 45 to 60, and in most instances it made the image more detailed and clear without screaming "processing."

In comparison, the JVC RS55 projector's MPC processing was, to my eye, more natural and subtle. Dialing it up increased the perception of image detail, dimensionality etc, but looking directly at details like those nose high-lights, they did not start "burning up" in intensity in any obvious way and didn't seem to alter the integrity of the image as much. But then, it also doesn't offer the degree of enhancement the Darblet offers, and I really came to appreciate the extra kick of the Darblet on various material, including sports (like the UFC).

For me the real "aha" moment was when I finally tried the JVC's MPC processing in combination with the Darblet. Taking that Avatar shot I spoke of, and a few others like close ups of Jake's face, I dialed up the Darblet to just were it was enhancing the image, but once it started to give an obvious high-lighted effect, I backed off. But then I started to engaged the projector's MPC settings and I saw the clarity and detail further increase but WITHOUT the Darblet's cost of the high-lights getting too artificial looking. It was like putting on that final lens when getting my eyes tested that snapps everything into perfect focus.

For me this is when the image on my screen really took off. It was just astoundingly clear and sharp, but generally there was very little additional image noise (in fact I started to wonder if the Darblet does any noise reduction, since it somehow made the MPC processing look even smoother than normal). Movies like Alien still looked quite cinematic, but with a Holy Cow new level of solidity, clarity and dimensionality.

Although my system is set up to zoom images to various sizes, I recently bought a second hand Panamorph UH480 anamorphic lens so that I could make CinemaScope images even larger on my system (up to about 125" wide, from between 9.5 to 10.5 foot viewing distance). The larger you make any image in relation to a given seated viewing distance, generally image snap and sharpness tends to decline. What is particularly wonderful about introducing the Darblet (along with the MPC processing) is how it allows me to increase the perception of image sharpness/clarity to compensate as the image gets bigger. It was just amazing to re-view scenes from Start Trek (2009), Casino Royal, King Kong, Transformers etc
and see a pin-sharp image of incredible detail at that size. It looks like the clarity I'm used to of smaller image sizes, but retained at any size.

Though I still noted the need for caution on my part - putting up the settings to "wow" mode, e.g. for me between 50 and 70 - could work with some shots, but others like certain facial close ups could look a bit harder and harsher, saying "image processing" to me. I'll have to find the balance.
I also note that turning the Darblet up beyond 45 or so can either start to introduce obvious white line/ringing on some outlines, or perhaps simply enhance existing source ringing that was already there.

But the enhancement form the Darblet doesn't simply seem to be just "sharper and clearer." The way it seems to achieve it by altering contrast also seems to increase the general sense of, for lack of better words, ANSI "pop" and MTF. For instance the various stars against black backgrounds, street lamps in night scenes, bright futuristic graphic computer displays (Avatar/Alien), brightly lit buttons (e.g. the crew turning on controls in Alien), highlighted rain drops on windows (Jurassic Park T-Rex scene in the cars) all take on greater contrast and intensity and "pop" so it's sort of like upping the contrast look of the image overall. It can be pretty dazzling, but again, can walk the line between "real" and "film" depending on one's goal.

And it definitely made the UFC's I've recorded look sharper, though for some reason when I tried dialing the processing much higher (e.g. toward 100) it started to make the contrast look to my eye a bit more unnatural and crushed, so I dialed it back a bit.

All in all, though my experience with the Darblet has been brief, I'm extremely happy I purchased one. It adds a wonderful tool to the kit for dialing in my system, and increasing apparent image clarity and quality. Like getting new, better lenses, or somewhat upgrading the projector, but for a ridiculously lower cost. And for someone like me looking to preserve the integrity of the film image while increasing dimensionality and clarity, the combination of the Darblet and the projector's MPC settings is the magic bullet.


I am not able to find much information about MPC, however it is likely that MPC is doing some fidelity improvement that DVP appreciates (ie., de-noise/de-block).

Glad to hear that you are getting good results with your projection system.

We specifically avoid processing edges, for a number of reasons.

Like with most technologies, we will get more perfect by our efforts in the lab and with your feedback.

Thank you for the good detailed write up.

-DD
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post #362 of 8104 Old 06-03-2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DarbeeDr View Post


We specifically avoid processing edges, for a number of reasons.

-DD

Fair enough, I'm hardly one to be saying what your processing is doing.
One example is when I watched some scenes from the HD DVD of the monster movie The Host. There was an image that starts with a static shot of a woman emerging from within the beams of a large bridge - lots of architectural lines and hard edges. With the Darblet on around 50 or 60 I noticed an obvious white line running along the edges of the beams - edge enhancement or ringing type. As I dialed down the Darblet that white line became less and less bright and intense. With the Darblet completely off the white edge was much less visible and softer, but still there subtly. So I suppose it was some existing edge artifact (ringing or whatever) in the source, that the Darblet made more prominent.

(My projector's MPC settings were off for that, and all detail/sharpness settings at "0").

Regardless, I'm very happy you introduced this product and I appreciate your listening to customer feedback.

BTW, echoing what some others have mentioned, the image enhancement really works wonders in dark scenes too. In Avatar the nighttime viperwolf attack blew my mind with the new image enhancements - just how clear, solid and real those animated viperwolve's looked, and the sense of depth as the camera ran through the foliage after Jake was something else!
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post #363 of 8104 Old 06-03-2012, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Fair enough, I'm hardly one to be saying what your processing is doing.
One example is when I watched some scenes from the HD DVD of the monster movie The Host. There was an image that starts with a static shot of a woman emerging from within the beams of a large bridge - lots of architectural lines and hard edges. With the Darblet on around 50 or 60 I noticed an obvious white line running along the edges of the beams - edge enhancement or ringing type. As I dialed down the Darblet that white line became less and less bright and intense. With the Darblet completely off the white edge was much less visible and softer, but still there subtly. So I suppose it was some existing edge artifact (ringing or whatever) in the source, that the Darblet made more prominent.

(My projector's MPC settings were off for that, and all detail/sharpness settings at "0").

Regardless, I'm very happy you introduced this product and I appreciate your listening to customer feedback.

BTW, echoing what some others have mentioned, the image enhancement really works wonders in dark scenes too. In Avatar the nighttime viperwolf attack blew my mind with the new image enhancements - just how clear, solid and real those animated viperwolve's looked, and the sense of depth as the camera ran through the foliage after Jake was something else!

We really appreciate when you refer to specific scenes. This gives us the ability to try to reproduce what you like and don't like.

Thanks for the compliments.

-DD
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post #364 of 8104 Old 06-03-2012, 03:25 PM
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for oppo issues switch to the other hdmi inout on the back of the bdp-93. I done this and never had a problem since.
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post #365 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 12:18 AM
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Am I correct in thinking that this device does something similar to JVCs eshift?
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post #366 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

With the Darblet completely off the white edge was much less visible and softer, but still there subtly. So I suppose it was some existing edge artifact (ringing or whatever) in the source, that the Darblet made more prominent.

My impression is the Darblet does not add digital artifacts when used at lower settings but can make existing artifacts more visible (such as ringing, haloes, aliasing, blocking) so it works best with sources free of digital artifacts which it can lift to new levels of clarity, apparent sharpness and 3 dimensionality (removing a veil, or technically speaking, raising the MTF of the imaging chain that produced the source).
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post #367 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 04:56 AM
 
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Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post

Am I correct in thinking that this device does something similar to JVCs eshift?

No. E shift involves scaling the input resolution to 3940 x 2160, extracting two 1920 x 1080 frames, displaying them alternating with one frame physically shifted one quater pixel both vertically and horizontally, and having the pixels be of a size that they overlap creating 3940 x 2160 pixels. Darbee processes a frame to result in an improved image of the same resolution.
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post #368 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 4 View Post


No. E shift involves scaling the input resolution to 3940 x 2160, extracting two 1920 x 1080 frames, displaying them alternating with one frame physically shifted one quater pixel both vertically and horizontally, and having the pixels be of a size that they overlap creating 3940 x 2160 pixels. Darbee processes a frame to result in an improved image of the same resolution.

Ok, I just read that in earlier post
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post #369 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

I just played around with this a little more. I verified that my Radiance and BD player are both configured to output YCbCr 422. If the Darblet is installed after the Radiance the colors on the pj only appear correct if it's set to the RGB or "Auto" color space settings.

I recabled to place the Darblet between my BD player & the Radiance. The image then appeared green no matter what color space the pj was set for. The Radiance was reporting YCbCr 422 on both the input & output even though the Darblet outputs RGB. The colors normalized after the Darblet was cabled back where it had been between the Radiance & the pj.

Perhaps fiddling with the connections or power cycling the gear would have cleared the green screen when the Darblet was connected to the Radiance's input. At this point I'm more interested in watching movies than troubleshooting so I guess I'm content to remain confused for now...

Just wondering if you or wmassie have been able to get around the YcBcR 422 issue you were experiencing with the darblet in the chain?..

As you guys are prob aware the Radiance performs at there optimum when receiving/outputing 422 the native color space the lumagen Radiance performs there internal processing in (this includes the DVDOs as well).. Note The Darblet's native internal processing is 444@10bit but should convert back to the color space that was input..

As mentioned in order to get the highest Bit depth/best performance out of these VPs & into the Display both the Radiance & Duo must receive & output in the 422 domain= 10bit+ output.. Of course If your Display device is optimised for RGB/444 this is mute, though Display Devices performing there internal processing in 422 are Pretty common IE Panasonic..

Idealy you want the Darblet Placed after the Radiance as IMO its best to perform image enhancement/ after Scaling not before..
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post #370 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cinema mad View Post

Just wondering if you or wmassie have been able to get around the YcBcR 422 issue you were experiencing with the darblet in the chain?..

As you guys are prob aware the Radiance performs at there optimum when receiving/outputing 422 the native color space the lumagen Radiance performs there internal processing in (this includes the DVDOs as well).. Note The Darblet's native internal processing is 444@10bit but should convert back to the color space that was input..

As mentioned in order to get the highest Bit depth/best performance out of these VPs & into the Display both the Radiance & Duo must receive & output in the 422 domain= 10bit+ output.. Of course If your Display device is optimised for RGB/444 this is mute, though Display Devices performing there internal processing in 422 are Pretty common IE Panasonic..

Idealy you want the Darblet Placed after the Radiance as IMO its best to perform image enhancement/ after Scaling not before..

After much testing, was unable to resolve the color space issue with my epson 6500 projector and I have no idea what is does to My Mits TV (completely immobilizes the HDMI inputs-although after researching on the Mits tv forums, I may require a firmware update).

I have sent the darblet back for analysis and replacement and I must say I am experiencing "darbee withdrawal". I think the folks at DarbeeVision have invented image "crack". I hope I get my little "d" back soon.
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post #371 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 09:41 AM
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a kind member sent me their 2nd darby while waiting for mine to arrive. I had a chance to check it out last night on the JVC RS55 for about 5 hours. For others reference, I sit 1.25 from a 142" 16:9 2.8HP screen. Sitting this close to a fairly large screen makes it easy to see IQ changes (for good or for bad).

JVC's e-shift is very different than what the Darby is doing to the image. I was originally hesitant on this technology, but I am now a big fan of this optical/scaling technique. In this particular environment (large screen, close seating distance), the e-shift quickly separates itself from all the other projectors I've seen this year. The image becomes naturally sharper and has the appearance of an increase in resolution. Hair and facial features become more noticeable and there a perception of increased contrast and depth as well. IMO, this does not look processed.

I find the e-shift to be one of the most underrated technologies that came out in a projector this year. If they could package and bottle it, I'd add it to every 1080P projector that's out today.

Having said that, I wanted to see how the Darby would benefit as well. There are several scenes I used in the 'Art of Flight' which was shot on the red 4k and is excellent source footage with several closeups of faces.

I'm glad there's several choices / modes since the amount folks are going to use this is going to vary widely based on the size of the screen, source content, etc. I personally stayed with the HD mode, the changes in the full pop are a little too much for my preferences. I settled on 20-30, once in a while going up to 35. If I have it at 40%, It's just too noticeable and I am staring at the processing and not the original content. I couldn't run it 50-70 as some have, it begins to look like a photoshop filter of some kind.

I can definitely appreciate what it's doing as long as I keep it as low as 20-30% on the HD mode. It's something I'm going to have to get used to though since the instant the Darby is on (even at 20-30%) my brain is still telling me that something has changed. I know it's looks better, but it's going to take some time to get used to.

I realize that e-shift and the darby are not the same thing, but the intention is the same, to increase the IQ & Sharpness. I find the changes that e-shift does to be more natural than what I'm seeing with the Darby. With the low settings, it does work well in combination with the e-shift and looking forward to checking out more content this week.

I also had a chance to watch it on the BQ W7000 which is quite a sharp projector to begin with. I also chose to keep it on 20-25% HD mode with this particular projector.
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post #372 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmassie View Post

After much testing, was unable to resolve the color space issue with my epson 6500 projector and I have no idea what is does to My Mits TV (completely immobilizes the HDMI inputs-although after researching on the Mits tv forums, I may require a firmware update).

I have sent the darblet back for analysis and replacement and I must say I am experiencing "darbee withdrawal". I think the folks at DarbeeVision have invented image "crack". I hope I get my little "d" back soon.

LOL Darbee withdrawals, well thats gota hurt ..
I have 100% faith that Darbee will look after you..

DarbeeDr/Darbee vision comes across as people who will stand by there products & it speaks volumes for the handfull of companies that make the effort to directly interact/support there products within an online community imo..

BTW Thanks for your reply wmassie..
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post #373 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by wildchild22 View Post

for oppo issues switch to the other hdmi inout on the back of the bdp-93. I done this and never had a problem since.

Thank you!

I tried the other Oppo output and that made things much better. Now it can generally sync with the Darblet in the chain. That said, it's still not perfect as I'm getting odd audio anomalies which still seem to indicate handshake/sync problems with the Darblet in the chain (e.g. sometimes the sound is incorrect, e.g. nothing in my center channel, or no dialogue etc. none of which ever happened before putting the Darblet in the chain).
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post #374 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I realize that e-shift and the darby are not the same thing, but the intention is the same, to increase the IQ & Sharpness. I find the changes that e-shift does to be more natural than what I'm seeing with the Darby. With the low settings, it does work well in combination with the e-shift and looking forward to checking out more content this week.

Sounds like we had similar impressions of the Darblet with our JVC projector.
With the JVC MPC settings, I always found that +1 or +2 was most natural, with +3 tending to exacerbate image noise a bit more and getting just toward that "everything looks so sharp it can look enhanced" effect.

Maybe it's just a honeymoon phase, but I'm finding I can actually get into the MPC setting at "3" sometimes, combined with the Darblet at between 30 and even up to 60 (depending on source). For some reason image noise isn't bothering me with this combo and cripes the image can be so astounding. The amount of added dimensionality is so addictive.

I actually cranked the Darblet up to 60 (combined with MPC at 3) to watch some of the Microcosmos Blu-Ray (incredible insect documentary). Admittedly it looked less like film, but it didn't fully remove the film look. It was hard for my film-purest-loving-self to argue with the impact of seeing such clarity, pop of contrast and color, and sheer realism of the images of insects. I threw on Toy Story 2 and Monsters Inc just for eye-gasm and the clarity was insane. It was certainly on a level that my projector by itself can not achieve. (And it's funny that I'd previously watched this stuff and asked myself how it could get any sharper).

Similarly, I watched some of Spielberg's War Of The Worlds, which has a stylized, grainy, pushed-stock film look. The Darblet/MPC combo offered much greater depth, and better sharpness, though it didn't go all the way to removing the film element and making it look like video. It still felt pretty cinematic.

Like I said before, though, I'm still getting my bearings as to how high I want to push the effect.
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post #375 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 11:55 AM
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Rich - can you remind me of your screen size / seating distance for your setup?

I'm only 14 feet or so from the 142" 16:9 and it's pretty unforgiving when I see any noticeable changes in the IQ. I think 35% is my limit on non-animated content with this setup.

I agree on the MPC, I usually stick with 2 most of the time, but crank it up a bit on occasion. I think the e-shift has to be seen in person to be appreciated, it's hard to describe it's effect.
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post #376 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 12:30 PM
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I vary my image size via zooming and masking. My seating distance hovers between 10 and 11 feet from the screen. My screen sizes vary between 89" diag for 16:9 and 136" diagonal for 16:9, and 99" and 125" wide for 2:35:1. I've evaluated the Darblet at screen sizes down to 102" 16:9 and and much of my evaluation in scope mode was done at around 124" wide.

(The Darblet effects are quite visible no matter what screen size I've chosen so far).

Hope that helps. (Re JVC, I agree, the MPC effect is very hard to describe since it's really not the same as typical sharpening we are all used to).
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post #377 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Sounds like we had similar impressions of the Darblet with our JVC projector.
With the JVC MPC settings, I always found that +1 or +2 was most natural, with +3 tending to exacerbate image noise a bit more and getting just toward that "everything looks so sharp it can look enhanced" effect.

Maybe it's just a honeymoon phase, but I'm finding I can actually get into the MPC setting at "3" sometimes, combined with the Darblet at between 30 and even up to 60 (depending on source). For some reason image noise isn't bothering me with this combo and cripes the image can be so astounding. The amount of added dimensionality is so addictive.

I actually cranked the Darblet up to 60 (combined with MPC at 3) to watch some of the Microcosmos Blu-Ray (incredible insect documentary). Admittedly it looked less like film, but it didn't fully remove the film look. It was hard for my film-purest-loving-self to argue with the impact of seeing such clarity, pop of contrast and color, and sheer realism of the images of insects. I threw on Toy Story 2 and Monsters Inc just for eye-gasm and the clarity was insane. It was certainly on a level that my projector by itself can not achieve. (And it's funny that I'd previously watched this stuff and asked myself how it could get any sharper).

Similarly, I watched some of Spielberg's War Of The Worlds, which has a stylized, grainy, pushed-stock film look. The Darblet/MPC combo offered much greater depth, and better sharpness, though it didn't go all the way to removing the film element and making it look like video. It still felt pretty cinematic.

Like I said before, though, I'm still getting my bearings as to how high I want to push the effect.

I have been trying the Darblet with a JVC RS45 and so far I am impressed with the results. I have also used The Art Of Flight as reference material and can see a difference using the 35-40 Hi-Def setting. The other settings do not seem to work for me. I also tested Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris and there is a noticeable difference for the better. Where the Darblet really shines is on SD material. I tried a few concert SD disks including Bruce Springsteen in Barcelona and the results are really good. I am using an Oppo 93 source direct into a DVD0-Iscan with CMS. I placed the Darblet after the I-Scan and before the projector.
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post #378 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 02:37 PM
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I agree that the closer you are, the less you should set your %. For my case, I am 13ish feet from my 10ft wide scope, so I settled for like 60 to 65. Also, full pop is not my cup of tea at any %..
I do also agree that it takes time to get used to.. I like it so far at 60, but I feel it is a bit processed, so I might reduce it a bit later.
I also experience the 422 and RGB issue. I need to set my RS55 to Auto to solve this. Hopefully Darbee can get this fixed soon.
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post #379 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 04:09 PM
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I just got my darblet and hooked it up between my processor and Sony projector.

The projector isn't receiving power off commands anymore.

Anyone experience this or have thoughts?

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post #380 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinema mad View Post

Just wondering if you or wmassie have been able to get around the YcBcR 422 issue you were experiencing with the darblet in the chain?..

As you guys are prob aware the Radiance performs at there optimum when receiving/outputing 422 the native color space the lumagen Radiance performs there internal processing in (this includes the DVDOs as well).. Note The Darblet's native internal processing is 444@10bit but should convert back to the color space that was input..

As mentioned in order to get the highest Bit depth/best performance out of these VPs & into the Display both the Radiance & Duo must receive & output in the 422 domain= 10bit+ output.. Of course If your Display device is optimised for RGB/444 this is mute, though Display Devices performing there internal processing in 422 are Pretty common IE Panasonic..

Idealy you want the Darblet Placed after the Radiance as IMO its best to perform image enhancement/ after Scaling not before..

My work-around was to switch the color space setting in my RS60 from YCbCr 422 to either RGB or Auto. (Yes, the Darblet is cabled between the Radiance & the pj. The alternate configuration I mentioned was just for testing.) I haven't noticed any ill effect from the change, although my preference would be to have the Darblet output the same color space it received. I'm confident that the Darbee folks are working the issue based on DD's posts.

I'm enjoying the Darblet very much. I leave it in Hi Def mode, level 40%. The optimal level seems to vary with the video content that's being displayed, but 40% does a nice job of making the image appear to be better focused without looking artificially enhanced.
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post #381 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mookie b View Post

I just got my darblet and hooked it up between my processor and Sony projector.

The projector isn't receiving power off commands anymore.

Anyone experience this or have thoughts?

The Function menu in some Sony pj's has HDMI settings that you may need to disable:
---------------------------------------------------
Control for HDMI:
Selects the function whether to turn the Control
for HDMI function effective when the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2
connectors are connected to a Control for HDMI compatible
equipment.
When set to “On”, the following are available.
• The operation of the projector and the connected Control for
HDMI compatible equipment will synchronize with each other.
• The Control for HDMI setting of Sony equipment (AV
amplifier, video, etc.), which is compatible with “Control for
HDMI - Easy Setting”*, will also be effective.
The factory default setting is “On”.


Device Auto Power Off:
Sets whether to also turn the power of the
connected Control for HDMI compatible equipment off when you
turn the power of the projector off.
When set to “On”, the equipment will synchronize and turn off
when the power of the projector turns off.
The factory default setting is “On”.

PJ Auto Power On:
Select whether to link the power of the
projector to the Control for HDMI compatible equipment.
When set to “On”, the power of the projector will automatically
turn on when the power of the connected equipment is turned on
or when making operations such as playback.
---------------------------------------------------
Or perhaps you just need fresh batteries in your projector's remote...
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post #382 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post


The Function menu in some Sony pj's has HDMI settings that you may need to disable:
---------------------------------------------------
Control for HDMI:
Selects the function whether to turn the Control
for HDMI function effective when the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2
connectors are connected to a Control for HDMI compatible
equipment.
When set to "On", the following are available.
o The operation of the projector and the connected Control for
HDMI compatible equipment will synchronize with each other.
o The Control for HDMI setting of Sony equipment (AV
amplifier, video, etc.), which is compatible with "Control for
HDMI - Easy Setting"*, will also be effective.
The factory default setting is "On".

Device Auto Power Off:
Sets whether to also turn the power of the
connected Control for HDMI compatible equipment off when you
turn the power of the projector off.
When set to "On", the equipment will synchronize and turn off
when the power of the projector turns off.
The factory default setting is "On".

PJ Auto Power On:
Select whether to link the power of the
projector to the Control for HDMI compatible equipment.
When set to "On", the power of the projector will automatically
turn on when the power of the connected equipment is turned on
or when making operations such as playback.
---------------------------------------------------
Or perhaps you just need fresh batteries in your projector's remote...

Thanks, I'll try it out. I think I remember those settings...it's definitely not the batteries!

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post #383 of 8104 Old 06-04-2012, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I also had a chance to watch it on the BQ W7000 which is quite a sharp projector to begin with. I also chose to keep it on 20-25% HD mode with this particular projector.

Was the improvement as dramatic? Seems like most people here are raving about the improvements on LCD and LCOS, no one really has much to say about the improvement, or lack there of, on a DLP.

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post #384 of 8104 Old 06-05-2012, 01:20 AM
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JerryW,
Theres A Guy over in the +20,000 forum who has The Sim2 Lumis DLP, one of the top consumer projectors teamed with A Darblet & claims the Darblet improves the pic..

The owner of AVS chose to include A Darblet combined with his HiEnd Barco 4k DPI, DLP Projector..
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post #385 of 8104 Old 06-05-2012, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryW View Post

Was the improvement as dramatic? Seems like most people here are raving about the improvements on LCD and LCOS, no one really has much to say about the improvement, or lack there of, on a DLP.

Once the site re-opens, i'll have more comparative info. I'll likely add a section to the mini-shootout (in my signature) comparing how the darblet works on some of the current projectors such as the BenQ W7000, JVC RS55, Sony HW30, etc.
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post #386 of 8104 Old 06-05-2012, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

a kind member sent me their 2nd darby while waiting for mine to arrive. I had a chance to check it out last night on the JVC RS55 for about 5 hours. For others reference, I sit 1.25 from a 142" 16:9 2.8HP screen. Sitting this close to a fairly large screen makes it easy to see IQ changes (for good or for bad).

JVC's e-shift is very different than what the Darby is doing to the image. I was originally hesitant on this technology, but I am now a big fan of this optical/scaling technique. In this particular environment (large screen, close seating distance), the e-shift quickly separates itself from all the other projectors I've seen this year. The image becomes naturally sharper and has the appearance of an increase in resolution. Hair and facial features become more noticeable and there a perception of increased contrast and depth as well. IMO, this does not look processed.

I find the e-shift to be one of the most underrated technologies that came out in a projector this year. If they could package and bottle it, I'd add it to every 1080P projector that's out today.

Having said that, I wanted to see how the Darby would benefit as well. There are several scenes I used in the 'Art of Flight' which was shot on the red 4k and is excellent source footage with several closeups of faces.

I'm glad there's several choices / modes since the amount folks are going to use this is going to vary widely based on the size of the screen, source content, etc. I personally stayed with the HD mode, the changes in the full pop are a little too much for my preferences. I settled on 20-30, once in a while going up to 35. If I have it at 40%, It's just too noticeable and I am staring at the processing and not the original content. I couldn't run it 50-70 as some have, it begins to look like a photoshop filter of some kind.

I can definitely appreciate what it's doing as long as I keep it as low as 20-30% on the HD mode. It's something I'm going to have to get used to though since the instant the Darby is on (even at 20-30%) my brain is still telling me that something has changed. I know it's looks better, but it's going to take some time to get used to.

I realize that e-shift and the darby are not the same thing, but the intention is the same, to increase the IQ & Sharpness. I find the changes that e-shift does to be more natural than what I'm seeing with the Darby. With the low settings, it does work well in combination with the e-shift and looking forward to checking out more content this week.

I also had a chance to watch it on the BQ W7000 which is quite a sharp projector to begin with. I also chose to keep it on 20-25% HD mode with this particular projector.

Thanks for your comments. The naturalness is a big concern for me, i would be interested to know if you can find a setting that delivers benefits but also looks natural. I have seen the e shift and liked it on low setting, but I would be interested if you can make the darbee appear as natural as well. What im getting from you is it looks more processed however?
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post #387 of 8104 Old 06-06-2012, 04:50 AM
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I have a problem with my unit that I haven't seen discussed yet. My Darblet works great in my system when using my Oppo 83 SE player, but does not
give me a picture when I try to use my Toshiba HD XA-2 HD-DVD player. I'm using an Octavia 3x2 HDMI Cross switch between the two players and my
Epson 8700 UB projector. Does anyone else have this Toshiba player and use the Darblet? I have a large collection of DVD's and HD-DVD's and I would
like to be able to use everything through the Darblet. Any ideas?
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post #388 of 8104 Old 06-06-2012, 05:39 AM
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^^^
Configure your HD DVD player to output video in the RGB color space - not YCbCr or Auto.

EDIT:
It looks like this may not be a configurable setting in your player:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1326468/hd-dvd-xa2-xe1-hdmi-output-type
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post #389 of 8104 Old 06-06-2012, 06:32 AM
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016.JPG 1181k .JPG file 017.JPG 1372k .JPG file 018.JPG 1504k .JPG file 019.JPG 1478k .JPG file 020.JPG 1736k .JPG file 021.JPG 1471k .JPG file I have run across an issue with the Darbee and frame packed 3D content processed triple flash by my projector. The Darbee top center logo/display showing the Darbee setting number will not turn off. When I switch to 2D content or 3D side by side the Drabee log/display functions properly.
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post #390 of 8104 Old 06-06-2012, 08:50 AM
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Hi all,
I've searched this question but didn't see any exact matches. I'm planning to use the DVP in the following manner: Multiple sources (DTV, Oppo-BD, ATV, Anthem MRX300, Monoprice HDMI splitter to 2 displays (Panny plasma and pj). My question is where to put the DVP(s). I'd like to place one DVP between the Anthem and the HDMI splitter, does this sound feasable or will I have to purchase 2 DVPs to place between splitter and both displays?

Any personal experience is greatly appreciated...
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