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post #7561 of 8127 Old 01-13-2014, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post

Does anyone know if the Darblet can be controlled via a Logitech Harmony One? I only ask because that the main remote in my system and it would be AWESOME if I wanted to use diff settings per input to be able to control that as I switch them (for instance say Xbox @ 75%, Bluray player at 45% and Uverse at 75%).

Yes I have my Harmony One setup to operate the Darbee. Here are the steps. In the software on your computer for the Harmony....

 

Add new device...under amplifier....audio/video switch....select darbeevision...and type in DVP-5000 for the model. Then you can add any buttons to any activity. On most of my activities I just added More Darbee and Less Darbee. on the touchscreen part of the Harmony One.


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post #7562 of 8127 Old 01-13-2014, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

Yes I have my Harmony One setup to operate the Darbee. Here are the steps. In the software on your computer for the Harmony....

Add new device...under amplifier....audio/video switch....select darbeevision...and type in DVP-5000 for the model. Then you can add any buttons to any activity. On most of my activities I just added More Darbee and Less Darbee. on the touchscreen part of the Harmony One.

Thanks, thats EXACTLY what I was looking to know. Their software (while awesome) can be a PITA to figure out how they categorize or name components lol...

I think I will probably do what you are doing if I end up snagging one (still on the fence).


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post #7563 of 8127 Old 01-14-2014, 06:11 AM
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I purchased the 5000 17 months ago. Loved it, rewatched all my fav movies ect. then after a few months i had an issue with it not giving me any video output. someone told me to unplug and retry----Success. Then it started happening a little more often, and I had to unplug power and HDMI, but it worked.
I should have known that this should not be necessary to do but I did not want to send it back and wait for repair ( I would miss it too much?) or I was too lazy. Then It happened again when I wanted to watch a stanley cup game on TV and it would not reset. I left it out of the chain to watch the game and give it more time. I recently tried it again but no luck. Dumb-Dumb=Dumb. No it is out of warrantee-Dumb
Moral of this story= you can use bandaids as long as you have warrantee left, but if it is not healng, send it back while you can. as a matter of fact don't use the band aid more than ounce!!!

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post #7564 of 8127 Old 01-14-2014, 09:45 AM
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I have an OPPO 103 plugged into a Sony HX850 LED. I am told that by setting the sharpness in the OPPO at +1 you will get the same effect as a Darbee. At +1 it does give the picture more depth.
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post #7565 of 8127 Old 01-14-2014, 09:47 AM
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Absolutely not. It's a different approach. Sharpness is adding distortion on the edges of the object. Darbee is de-blurring the image (not adding "stuff" to the image)
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post #7566 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 12:15 PM
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Well, it's on Solid Signal for $224 and I finally bit the bullet. I'm pumped to get it and try it. I've read a ton in this thread, and just to be sure, it is best putting it closest to the projector correct? i.e. 30' Redmere cable out of receiver and into darblet, and 6' cable from darblet to projector?

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post #7567 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 12:48 PM
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No , the Darbee Dr guy says to give it best chance to work it goes closer to the source. Remember that short 18" cables however may be too close because of HDMI handshake issues. I wish you woudl have posted htis 2 dayus ago. I just paid $40 more 35 more on Amazon. Mine was free shipping. Did you have to pay for shipping?
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post #7568 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Randomcreek View Post

No , the Darbee Dr guy says to give it best chance to work it goes closer to the source. Remember that short 18" cables however may be too close because of HDMI handshake issues. I wish you woudl have posted htis 2 dayus ago. I just paid $40 more 35 more on Amazon. Mine was free shipping. Did you have to pay for shipping?

I paid $8.49 for two day shipping. The deal is just today AFIAK. So wait, you're saying the darblet should actually go closer to the receiver?

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post #7569 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

So wait, you're saying the darblet should actually go closer to the receiver?

It should not make any difference.

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post #7570 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 01:22 PM
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Question for Darbee Dr.- Is it generally better to 1) Darbeeize the native signal (480i, 720P, 1080i or 1080P) first and then let my display scale to the screen resolution (1080P) OR 2) since I am running all my sources through a receiver that can upconvert everything to 1080P, upconvert everything to 1080P, then darbeeize the 1080P signal whcih would be passed to the TV where it woudl not have to be scaled to the display resolution (1080P)?

Also, the TV has scanning choices of overscan or native. Which option is better?
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post #7571 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 01:26 PM
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Well if you go back to one of the early posts by DarbeeDr. that's what he wrote. I had to read it twice because I would have thought intuitively that it was the other way around or like you say it shouldn't matter, but sometimes these things are counter intuitive. I don't know the answer from first hand experience. Others here may. Or maybe it was a mistake or I interpreted what he said wrong.
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post #7572 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 01:31 PM
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here is the question and post by Dr. Darbee:
Originally Posted by flint350 View Post

I ordered one last week, before they switched to distributors. I got a Fedex email notification today (Saturday) that it was being shipped from California, so I guess the 6 week delay is over for now.

One question I have is about installation position in the video chain. I have a long hidden ceiling run of 50' of high quality HDMI 1.4a cable from the equipment room AVR to the projector. Any guesses on whether it would be best to connect the Darbee at the AVR via a short cable and then to the long 50' cable to the projector - vs - connect right at the projector at the end of the 50' cable and then a short connect directly to the projector? In other words, closer to the source or closer to the projector (based on the effect of the long cable).

The Darblet appreciates the best signal and will not degrade the signal. So put it at the end closest to the source to give it the best chance of doing the most good. We have tested with long "active" cables that have built in signal processing for maintaining quality, and we are perfectly compatible.
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post #7573 of 8127 Old 01-15-2014, 04:30 PM
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My $.02.
The Darbee/HDMI cable length interaction thing is not "one size fits all". We tried several ways and found that the most stable set up was with the short (6 ft.) HDMI cable going from the Darbee to the projector. The reasoning is that the Darbee does not have the "boost" to drive the long (50 ft.) inwall run from the AVR to the Projector. I could not get that one to work well... YRMV.
Enjoy your new toy.
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post #7574 of 8127 Old 01-16-2014, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

My $.02.
The Darbee/HDMI cable length interaction thing is not "one size fits all". We tried several ways and found that the most stable set up was with the short (6 ft.) HDMI cable going from the Darbee to the projector. The reasoning is that the Darbee does not have the "boost" to drive the long (50 ft.) inwall run from the AVR to the Projector. I could not get that one to work well... YRMV.
Enjoy your new toy.

This is what I thought I had remembered reading at some point in this post. I'll likely try this first and see how it works out. Thanks guys.

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post #7575 of 8127 Old 01-17-2014, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

My $.02.
The Darbee/HDMI cable length interaction thing is not "one size fits all". We tried several ways and found that the most stable set up was with the short (6 ft.) HDMI cable going from the Darbee to the projector. The reasoning is that the Darbee does not have the "boost" to drive the long (50 ft.) inwall run from the AVR to the Projector. I could not get that one to work well... YRMV.
Enjoy your new toy.

What about Darblet + a long MonoPrice Redmere cable? The two should compatible ... right?

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post #7576 of 8127 Old 01-17-2014, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Skrill View Post

What about Darblet + a long MonoPrice Redmere cable? The two should compatible ... right?

I'm running 6' HDMI out to darbee from AVR, and 35 foot redmere to projector. No issues, works great!

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post #7577 of 8127 Old 01-18-2014, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrill View Post

What about Darblet + a long MonoPrice Redmere cable? The two should compatible ... right?

The bottom line is "that one size does not fit all".
Try it and see...
This thread has many posts of people fooling around with different configurations to try and get the Darbee to work reliably. smile.gif
It's a testement to how good the final effect is that people put up with the quirks of the device.
In fairness to the Darbee, HDMI issues have been with us for awhile now. eek.gif
The darbee is just a +1 on a long standing problem.
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post #7578 of 8127 Old 01-18-2014, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

The bottom line is "that one size does not fit all".
Try it and see...
This thread has many posts of people fooling around with different configurations to try and get the Darbee to work reliably. smile.gif
...

For example, I have had no trouble ever with Pioneer BPD-51 -> HDMI switch -> Lumagen -> Darbee -> JVC RS20.
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post #7579 of 8127 Old 01-18-2014, 10:05 AM
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In all fairness, after installing (so far) 80+ Darblets, I have yet to encounter a single HDMI handshake issue with the Darblets.

I use long cables to Darbee and 1ft HDMI from Darbee to display.

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post #7580 of 8127 Old 01-18-2014, 12:05 PM
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Just got it and hooked it up, 6 ft HDMI from receiver out to darbee, then 30 foot redmere from darbee to projector, seems to work just fine, and I like it better in my equipment closet rather than sitting on top of my projector. This thing really does make a pretty dramatic difference imo just at first glance. I was even surprised that it seems to slightly improve contrast as well. I haven't seen too many praise full pop mode here, I know most like HD at about 55% or so, but I was really liking full pop at 55%. Anyway, I'm going to mess around with it some more tonight when I have more time.

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post #7581 of 8127 Old 01-20-2014, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

Just got it and hooked it up, 6 ft HDMI from receiver out to darbee, then 30 foot redmere from darbee to projector, seems to work just fine, and I like it better in my equipment closet rather than sitting on top of my projector. This thing really does make a pretty dramatic difference imo just at first glance. I was even surprised that it seems to slightly improve contrast as well. I haven't seen too many praise full pop mode here, I know most like HD at about 55% or so, but I was really liking full pop at 55%. Anyway, I'm going to mess around with it some more tonight when I have more time.

We are a little late to the party CheYC, but mine should be here tomorrow. My excuse is I had to get divorced. What's your's? smile.gif I will be running on a new 60" LG plasma that I have tweaked to the nth degree over the last 3 weeks to get a really great picture that already is color saturated and pops nicely. I've used the picture wizard (how sweet is that blue screen mode?) and my critical eye to squeeze every last drop of quality out of it (for my room and liking). It will be interesting to see if darbeeizing it will add anything or not (i.e. The Acid Test). We'll see.
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post #7582 of 8127 Old 01-20-2014, 05:19 PM
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I have several smaller tvs and the Darbee does help - some. However, not enough to justify its cost. If you have a projector shooting on a large screen (mine is an Epson 1080P shooting on a 106" Carada screen), then yes, you will notice a difference that justifies a $300 expenditure. I would not buy a Darbee for a tv.

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post #7583 of 8127 Old 01-20-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milacqua View Post

I have several smaller tvs and the Darbee does help - some. However, not enough to justify its cost. If you have a projector shooting on a large screen (mine is an Epson 1080P shooting on a 106" Carada screen), then yes, you will notice a difference that justifies a $300 expenditure. I would not buy a Darbee for a tv.

I see the difference easily on my 47" set and easily on my 82" set. For only $250 to $300 it is a steal. I remember paying many times that for each of many devices over the last twelve years that didn't come anywhere close to what the Darbee can do. People are spoiled when they say the darbee is expensive. They should have been around when devices similar to that were really expensive.

The Darbee easily gives the most bang for the buck of the devices I've purchased over the last twelve years or so. My Algolith Flea I bought in 2007 used to be one of my best bang for the buck devices. But that cost over $900. And that was an excellent deal back then. Which is why a say $250 to $300 in 2014 is easily a great bargain for the Darblet.
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post #7584 of 8127 Old 01-21-2014, 05:32 AM
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post #7585 of 8127 Old 01-21-2014, 05:35 AM
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I watched Toy Story 3 on full pop 55% the other night, holy smokes...

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post #7586 of 8127 Old 01-21-2014, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

I see the difference easily on my 47" set and easily on my 82" set. For only $250 to $300 it is a steal. I remember paying many times that for each of many devices over the last twelve years that didn't come anywhere close to what the Darbee can do. People are spoiled when they say the darbee is expensive. They should have been around when devices similar to that were really expensive.

The Darbee easily gives the most bang for the buck of the devices I've purchased over the last twelve years or so. My Algolith Flea I bought in 2007 used to be one of my best bang for the buck devices. But that cost over $900. And that was an excellent deal back then. Which is why a say $250 to $300 in 2014 is easily a great bargain for the Darblet.

I purchased mine on Feb 1, 2012 and received it a couple of months later. First used it with a 55" display then moved to a 70". I don't think there has been a single person that after watching for a bit and then turning the Darblet off hasn't commented that the picture looks blurry or out of focus with it disabled.
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Well -- I have decided I want a DVP-5000 (judging by the post further up -- apparently 6 days too late). Any idea when they will go back on special in the $225 - $230 range?

EDIT: Never mind -- the Solid Signal deal appears to be live. Just ordered. Looking forward to receiving.

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post #7588 of 8127 Old 01-21-2014, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milacqua View Post

I have several smaller tvs and the Darbee does help - some. However, not enough to justify its cost. If you have a projector shooting on a large screen (mine is an Epson 1080P shooting on a 106" Carada screen), then yes, you will notice a difference that justifies a $300 expenditure. I would not buy a Darbee for a tv.

I fully agree!. It is easier to notice the enhancement on big screen. The bigger the better.
New buyer should also not have "night and day" improvement with the device.
I have a 120" diagonal Carada Screen (1.3 gain) with Panasonic PTU-2000 Projector. I start noticing the minor difference when set the device at 55% HD and it gradually increase enhancement till 75% HD setting. I do not see further enhancement after 75% HD setting. Enhancement can be seen more easily on still picture, but not video. I keep the device just because it help a little and I paid $249, not $349.
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post #7589 of 8127 Old 01-21-2014, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

I haven't seen too many praise full pop mode here, I know most like HD at about 55% or so, but I was really liking full pop at 55%. Anyway, I'm going to mess around with it some more tonight when I have more time.

The reason most people stick with "Hi-Def" mode is that both "Game" and "Full Pop" will crush shadow detail in the image.

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post #7590 of 8127 Old 01-22-2014, 11:46 AM
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The reason most people stick with "Hi-Def" mode is that both "Game" and "Full Pop" will crush shadow detail in the image.

Ah OK, makes sense; I definitely seen this when comparing all modes on a paused "dark" scene. I almost don't mind too much because it seems to locally improve contrast (if that makes sense), I have a BenQ 1070 and contrast is its main weak point imo, so this seems to help a little even though I am losing some shadow detail. I also do notice some artifacts in full pop that I don't see in Hi Def or even gaming mode, though they aren't bad enough to be detrimental imo.

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