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post #7981 of 8405 Old 06-04-2014, 07:38 PM
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Thanks Plague. I guess I was looking for more when I purchased it. I turned it off for the first time today and the picture definently looks different. More life with the Darbee I'm keeping it.
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post #7982 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 06:31 AM
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To me, I never realize that the Darbee is doing anything special to the picture, until I turn it off...

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post #7983 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

To me, I never realize that the Darbee is doing anything special to the picture, until I turn it off...

WHich sounds like the prefect device to me. I have really been enjoying my two Darblets. You don't realize they are there unless you turn them off.

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post #7984 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 08:49 AM
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Hi, I just got one and I'm really enjoying it. I recently encountered a problem where it cannot play any 3d movies.

Here is my connection, I have a pioneer bdp 450-hdmi-Darbee-hdmi-Acer6510. I'm using the dual hdmi ports on my pioneer bdp450, where the other hdmi port is connected to my Onkyo 608 for sound. On my setup, It will play 2d ok but I don't know why it have problems on 3d. I even tried changing out the hdmi cables. If I remove the darbee and run the long hdmi cable from my projector straight to my bd player it plays the 3d movie fine. I even tried moving the darbee close to my projector to no avail.

It's weird because I tried another 3d blu-ray player (not installing the darbee), an Lg, wherein my connection is Lg bluray player-hdmi-Onkyo 608-hdmi-splitter-hdmi-pj and it also won't run my 3d's. My 3d bluray players will only run if I run the hdmi from my pj straight to the 3d blu-ray player.

Hope you guys can help me out. Kinda getting frustrated. Thanks. Btw all my cables are high speed ones, I have monoprice, Belkin etc.

What am I doing wrong here? By the way, I know the Onkyo 608 is 3d capable.
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post #7985 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Moks007 View Post

Hi, I just got one and I'm really enjoying it ... I recently encountered a problem where it cannot play any 3d movies.

Did your Darbee device handle successfully handle 3D content at first, and then stop? If so, did anything change in your settings or set-up?


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post #7986 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 09:49 AM
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Did your Darbee device handle successfully handle 3D content at first, and then stop? If so, did anything change in your settings or set-up?

No, my darbee never handled the 3d on my setup. When I bought my 3d pj a few months ago, my setup was just basic, wherein my receiver goes out to a hdmi splitter and run to my led tv and my pj. I run my pioneer bdp450 straight to the pj so I never had problems with 3d before. This is my setup before the darbee on my 2 hdmi ports on my pj.

When I installed the darbee, For example, I tried playing Titanic 3d and it will go in the paramount intro and then just lose signal after that..It also does that in Frozen 3d, Disney will come out then lose the signal. Screen will just go blank. I can see the Darbee lose its green light after the paramount and disney intro, whether the darbee is near the bd player or the pj.
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post #7987 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Moks007 View Post


No, my darbee never handled the 3d on my setup. When I bought my 3d pj a few months ago, my setup was just basic, wherein my receiver goes out to a hdmi splitter and run to my led tv and my pj. I run my pioneer bdp450 straight to the pj so I never had problems with 3d before. This is my setup before the darbee on my 2 hdmi ports on my pj.

When I installed the darbee, For example, I tried playing Titanic 3d and it will go in the paramount intro and then just lose signal after that..It also does that in Frozen 3d, Disney will come out then lose the signal. Screen will just go blank. I can see the Darbee lose its green light after the paramount and disney intro, whether the darbee is near the bd player or the pj.

Try and turn off the Deep Color setting in the BDP-450 and see if this helps. See page 7 in your manual You have three choices 36 bits, 30 bits and off. Deep color can sometimes play havoc with the Darbee.


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post #7988 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Moks007 View Post

Hi, I just got one and I'm really enjoying it. I recently encountered a problem where it cannot play any 3d movies.

Did you buy the Darblet (DVP-5000) or the Cobalt (DVP-4000)? The Darblet can process both 2D and 3D, but the lower-end Cobalt can only process 2D.

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post #7989 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post

Did you buy the Darblet (DVP-5000) or the Cobalt (DVP-4000)?
Exactly, that was my next question if he said no to the first question -- Moks007, just look at the top of your device, it will say "Cobalt" or "Darblet" in smaller type, right under the DARBEE logo.


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post #7990 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

Try and turn off the Deep Color setting in the BDP-450 and see if this helps. See page 7 in your manual You have three choices 36 bits, 30 bits and off. Deep color can sometimes play havoc with the Darbee.

I just tried this now, it still won't play my 3d. I really don't know what I'm doing wrong here. That's why I'm so puzzled.
These are my settings on my pioneer bdp450's initial setup on hdmi:

Hdmi mode - separate
color space - rgb
resolution - 1080p
Hdmi audio out - bitstream
Control - on
Hdmi deep color - off
hdmi 1080p 24hz - on
hdmi 3d - auto
3d notice - yes

Thanks
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post #7991 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post

Did you buy the Darblet (DVP-5000) or the Cobalt (DVP-4000)? The Darblet can process both 2D and 3D, but the lower-end Cobalt can only process 2D.

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Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

Exactly, that was my next question if he said no to the first question -- Moks007, just look at the top of your device, it will say "Cobalt" or "Darblet" in smaller type, right under the DARBEE logo.

I got the darblet dvp-5000. I know there should be no problem on 3d, that is why I'm so puzzled and frustrated. It plays 2d just fine and I have to say the picture is so beautiful. I set it at 48.

I'm suspecting the wires, maybe on my setup, or something is conflicting with the darbee. I even moved the darbee close to my pj and close to my bd player to no avail. From my pj to the darbee I have at least a Belkin 6feet hdmi and from the darbee to my player a monoprice 25 or 30ft hdmi.


Thanks.
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post #7992 of 8405 Old 06-06-2014, 08:51 PM
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Try taking off the auto 3D setting and manually setting it when you next cue a 3D program.


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post #7993 of 8405 Old 06-07-2014, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

Try taking off the auto 3D setting and manually setting it when you next cue a 3D program.

I tried this but when you put a 3d disc, a message will pop out that you need a 3d capable bluray player. I just freezes there.

Oh well, Im giving up for now because Im tired and will try to do cable swapping tom.

Thanks for all the inputs. I hope more inputs will come from you guys because i'm just a newbie and maybe I'm not doing something right here.
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post #7994 of 8405 Old 06-07-2014, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Moks007 View Post

... Here is my connection, I have a pioneer bdp 450-hdmi-Darbee-hdmi-Acer6510. I'm using the dual hdmi ports on my pioneer bdp450, where the other hdmi port is connected to my Onkyo 608 for sound. On my setup, It will play 2d ok but I don't know why it have problems on 3d. I even tried changing out the hdmi cables. If I remove the darbee and run the long hdmi cable from my projector straight to my bd player it plays the 3d movie fine. I even tried moving the darbee close to my projector to no avail. It's weird because I tried another 3d blu-ray player (not installing the darbee), an Lg, wherein my connection is Lg bluray player-hdmi-Onkyo 608-hdmi-splitter-hdmi-pj and it also won't run my 3d's. My 3d bluray players will only run if I run the hdmi from my pj straight to the 3d blu-ray player.

You said when you "remove the Darbee and run the long hdmi cable from my projector straight to my bd player it plays the 3d movie fine." You have no problems whether you use the LG or the Pioneer in this configuration.

We assume you have removed the Onkyo AVR and the splitter when you do this "straight" connection. If that is correct, try adding those two additional devices, each separately, one at a time, back into your video chain. What are your results with the AVR back in line? What are your results in the HDMI splitter back in line? And finally, what are your results when you add both the AVR and the Splitter?

Post back exactly what kind of splitter you are using. Devices like that, along with longer HDMI runs like yours, are a common source of handshake trouble in this thread, along with the previously noted Deep Color setting, which should be turned off on every device you have that offers it to minimize the potential for trouble.

One of the most effective and inexpensive handshake fixes is to use Monoprice "powered" Redmere HDMI cables on each HDMI connection in your chain. The Redmere cables are directional. Make sure you connect them with the labeled ends pointed toward the source and display in your chain.


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post #7995 of 8405 Old 06-07-2014, 03:53 PM
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This is Bob Pariseau's recent post in a related thread, where he talks about the cause of handshake problems, and what can be done to fix them. If you've got these problems, this is a must read.

I recently found out again how important a snug socket fit is. No, not in the Beevis & Butthead way. (Well, maybe that way too.) But I had a Redmere in place on a signal chain that was still giving me handshake issues. In going over the cabling for the 99th time, I finally let myself realize that the fit just wasn't snug on one end of one of the runs. I popped in another high speed Monoprice HDMI cable (not a Redmere). It was a super snug fit in the exact same port. Boom, handshake issues gone instantly.

Anyway, Bob's post is killer, and I hope some of you find it interesting or helpful, maybe even both.

HDMI is a "configurable" digital data cabling system. The configuration is done by the source end finding out from the destination end what the destination is willing to accept, and the source then configuring the link to send things as best it can within any such limits. This configuration of the communication is called a "handshake" for short.

HDMI is an end to end protocol, meaning the handshake isn't just between the pair of devices sharing a given cable but rather ALL the devices currently involved in HDMI communications all the way from the source to the farthest device(s) -- usually a display and audio receiver.

Any time anything changes -- for example a device in the chain gets turned on or off, or the nature of the content changes (different video resolution, or different audio format) -- the existing HDMI link needs to be taken down and re-established. A new handshake. Each handshake or handshake retry takes about 2 seconds due to delays designed into the HDMI handshake scheme. Multiple retries mean things take longer in multiples of 2 seconds.

The source device (in your case the Comcast box or AppleTV, whichever you are using a the moment) controls the handshake -- doing all the necessary talking back and forth not only to the next device in the HDMI chain (in your case the OPPO) but also THROUGH the OPPO to the farther devices.

A problematic "feature" of HDMI is that the content providers require "copy protection" as part of the data link. This is supposed to keep you from siphoning off their valuable digital content and selling it as files of your own. What's problematic about it is that HDMI copy protection -- known as HDCP -- is finicky by design. It LIKES to fail! And when it fails the audio and video get muted while handshake retries happen trying to make HDCP happy again. And even when it WORKS, copy protection pops up and "rechecks" every few minutes -- usually in the background so you don't know it is happening. But if it doesn't like the recheck? You guessed it -- audio and video muting while an HDMI handshake retry happens.

The best way to think about HDMI is that it is constantly on the verge of failing -- i.e., deciding it needs to do a handshake retry. You can't completely eliminate that possibility, but you can minimize the chances of it happening.

The first thing to do is look to your cabling. Marginal HDMI cabling pretty much guarantees you will have handshake problems. When buying HDMI cables, be sure they are marked as "High Speed", or "For 1080p", or "Category 2" -- all of which mean the same thing. Also HDMI is most reliable with cables that are 6 feet long (2 meters). The HDMI hardware has built in compensation that is supposed to keep things working for longer or shorter cables, but both very long and unusually short cables can cause problems. So for example, even though your Comcast and ATV may be sitting right next to the OPPO, it is best to use 6 foot HDMI cabling between them instead of shorty cables.

Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, ANY cable in the HDMI chain may be the cause of the problem. E.,g,, a long cable to your TV may actually be the cause of what looks like problems getting the Comcast box to communicate with the OPPO!

Also HDMI plugs are just friction fit. It only takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw up the connection. This can happen if cable weight or bends in the cable tug on the plug. Make sure both plug ends of every HDMI cable are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket with nothing tugging on them.

ANYTHING in the HDMI path should be suspect. This includes daisy-chained cables, adapters, wall plates, HDMI switches, gizmos like Darbee Darblet -- ANYTHING. Try bypassing each suspect item to see if it might be the cause of your problems.

OK, cabling aside, the second most common problem with HDMI handshakes happens at power up. Basically what happens is that the handshake begins before some device powering up really has its act together. The ideal order to power things up is in the reverse direction of the data flow -- i.e., turn on TV, wait, turn on AVR, wait, turn on OPPO, wait, turn on ATV. But that might not be practical. Often it is easier to just "force" a new handshake manually to get things sorted out again.

You can "force" a new handshake by changing the Input on the OPPO back to "Blu-ray Player" and then back to your desired Input. Or by changing the Input selected on your Receiver. Or by changing output Resolution of the OPPO using its remote (and then back to 1080p). Again, most any change makes a new handshake happen.

Lastly, there are things you can do to "simplify" the handshake -- which again increases your odds of no problems.

For example, use explicit settings for HDMI output instead of AUTO. I.e, explicit 1080p output resolution and an explicit HDMI Color Space choice (YCbCr 4:4:4 is the normal default choice). Your source device(s) and AVR may also have AUTO output settings which you can configure to an explicit choice.

Enabling Deep Color puts more bandwidth on the HDMI cable, and can exacerbate problems with marginal HDMI cables. See if turning off Deep Color fixes things, and if so, you may need to upgrade your HDMI cables.

HDMI CEC (i.e., remote control of different devices across the HDMI cables connecting them) can also cause problems because CEC may be commanding the devices to power up and down more often than would normally be the case -- thus more handshakes.

In your case I would look to your cabling first. If that doesn't fix it, then see if you can "live with" the problem by simply forcing a new handshake when the normal handshake fails -- i.e., switching Input on the OPPO to Blu-ray Player and then back to your desired Input. Also look to set explicit output settings instead of AUTO.

--Bob


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Last edited by mogrub; 08-14-2014 at 08:03 AM.
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post #7996 of 8405 Old 06-09-2014, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

You said when you "remove the Darbee and run the long hdmi cable from my projector straight to my bd player it plays the 3d movie fine." You have no problems whether you use the LG or the Pioneer in this configuration.

We assume you have removed the Onkyo AVR and the splitter when you do this "straight" connection. If that is correct, try adding those two additional devices, each separately, one at a time, back into your video chain. What are your results with the AVR back in line? What are your results in the HDMI splitter back in line? And finally, what are your results when you add both the AVR and the Splitter?

Post back exactly what kind of splitter you are using. Devices like that, along with longer HDMI runs like yours, are a common source of handshake trouble in this thread, along with the previously noted Deep Color setting, which should be turned off on every device you have that offers it to minimize the potential for trouble.

One of the most effective and inexpensive handshake fixes is to use Monoprice "powered" Redmere HDMI cables on each HDMI connection in your chain. The Redmere cables are directional. Make sure you connect them with the labeled ends pointed toward the source and display in your chain.


Thanks very much. I will surely redo all cabling and test it one by one. Will post back in a couple days for update. I really don't think its the darbee, it's a handshake issue, cables, splitter, or maybe it's my bd player. Something is conflicting.

Man this is like solving calculus in high school or taking physics in college lol...But for our love of watching movies and investing in these equipments, it's kinda frustrating but worth it to solve it hehehe...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

This is Bob Pariseau's recent post in a related thread, where he talks about the cause of handshake problems, and what can be done to fix them. If you've got these problems, this is a must read.

I recently found out again how important a snug socket fit is. No, not in the Beevis & Butthead way. (Well, maybe that way too.) But I had a Redmere in place on a signal chain that was still giving me handshake issues. In going over the cabling for the 99th time, I finally let myself realize that the fit just wasn't snug on one end of one of the runs. I popped in another high speed Monoprice HDMI cable (not a Redmere). It was a super snug fit in the exact same port. Boom, handshake issues gone instantly.

Anyway, Bob's post is killer, and I hope some of you find it interesting or helpful, maybe even both.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1492940/official-oppo-bdp-103d-darbee-edition-owners-thread/4050#post_24743375

Thanks a lot, a great read. Definitely helpful
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post #7997 of 8405 Old 06-09-2014, 02:55 AM
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What this little device does to improving the image is fantastic. I have an Mico 50 and a screen 120", in a bat cave. My experience is Blu-ray and cable TV to heights.

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post #7998 of 8405 Old 06-09-2014, 05:00 PM
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What this little device does to improving the image is fantastic. I have an Mico 50 and a screen 120", in a bat cave.
Sounds like you're officially addicted. You've got a lot of company 👍


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post #7999 of 8405 Old 06-09-2014, 05:03 PM
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Has anyone experienced remote problems with their Darbee, on mine the up function is no longer working ?

*Sony XBR 929 & Sony XBR8-Denon 3311CI-Mirage V2 FS speakers w/S10 Sub-Oppo 93-Darbee DVP5000-Harmony 1100
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post #8000 of 8405 Old 06-12-2014, 08:28 AM
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Has anyone experienced remote problems with their Darbee, on mine the up function is no longer working ?
I have. Mine stopped working but I have it in a convenient place. Could be the battery. Not really an issue for me. I set mine on HD at 51%.

There are never failures, only challenges.
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post #8001 of 8405 Old 06-12-2014, 08:56 AM
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I have. Mine stopped working but I have it in a convenient place. Could be the battery. Not really an issue for me. I set mine on HD at 51%.
Thx for the quick response, the problem I'm having started as the up function wasn't responding now other functions are failing. I recently (6mos) replaced battery I contacted CS at Darbee they suggested try another battery she explained the sml bulb in remote should light (indicating transmission of signal) I then noticed bulb was not igniting. Mine is set at HD/47 unit works well ....remote sux. I post results of battery repl purchased at Radio Shack ??? will try to locate a duracell or other high quality battery.

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post #8002 of 8405 Old 06-13-2014, 12:35 AM
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I have. Mine stopped working but I have it in a convenient place. Could be the battery. Not really an issue for me. I set mine on HD at 51%.
After trying nearly every setting for almost a year - I perceive HD 51 to be the best. It is very interesting that we all reached the same number independently.
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post #8003 of 8405 Old 06-13-2014, 07:04 AM
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Well its same number but I prefer Gaming 51

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post #8004 of 8405 Old 06-13-2014, 07:58 AM
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After trying nearly every setting for almost a year - I perceive HD 51 to be the best. It is very interesting that we all reached the same number independently.
I know what you mean. I do have some contrast enhancement being done by my s790 as well. I was not a fan of this device at first. But once I started understanding what it does, calibration and enhancement of my video was drastically changed(for the better) for my tastes. I'm a fan now.

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post #8005 of 8405 Old 06-13-2014, 09:53 AM
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After trying nearly every setting for almost a year - I perceive HD 51 to be the best. It is very interesting that we all reached the same number independently.
I think that may be associated to different panels responsive abilities. and also our viewing taste may be similar. I'm viewing on a Sony 929LED panel.

*Sony XBR 929 & Sony XBR8-Denon 3311CI-Mirage V2 FS speakers w/S10 Sub-Oppo 93-Darbee DVP5000-Harmony 1100
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post #8006 of 8405 Old 06-13-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mattg3 View Post
Well its same number but I prefer Gaming 51
I was playing with it a few weeks ago and accidentally left it on game. When I discovered It I switched back to HD and it was plainly obvious how harsh the picture was I had been watching. I do wish there were different applications for all the modes to be relevant.
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post #8007 of 8405 Old 06-17-2014, 11:55 AM
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It has been awhile since I've been on here and I did search the forum, but didn't find much about it so...

I've had two Darbee DVP-5000 for just under a year. I can tell you that only one remote is reliable. The other works sometimes. I even switched out the batteries between the two remotes and tried them on each other's Darbees. The result, one remote I can count on, the other I cannot.

Now for the REALLY irritating issue - One of the Darbees keeps resetting itself to factory defaults about every week to every other week. How annoying. Especially because that's in the room where I really don't need a remote, so I had the temperamental remote in that room. Not anymore as I have to keep resetting everything. I wish they'd fix this. I emailed Darbee and am waiting on a reply.

I love what they do for the image.
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post #8008 of 8405 Old 06-18-2014, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mp06011999 View Post
It has been awhile since I've been on here and I did search the forum, but didn't find much about it so...

I've had two Darbee DVP-5000 for just under a year. I can tell you that only one remote is reliable. The other works sometimes. I even switched out the batteries between the two remotes and tried them on each other's Darbees. The result, one remote I can count on, the other I cannot.

Now for the REALLY irritating issue - One of the Darbees keeps resetting itself to factory defaults about every week to every other week. How annoying. Especially because that's in the room where I really don't need a remote, so I had the temperamental remote in that room. Not anymore as I have to keep resetting everything. I wish they'd fix this. I emailed Darbee and am waiting on a reply.

I love what they do for the image.
This is the same problem I'm experiencing. It becomes evident when the Darbee 100% logo suddenly appears on-screen and I have to reset to my settings. ?? When I attempted to reset it with the remote and I found the up function non-operational ? I replaced battery to no avail.
Agreed when set properly it gives an amazing picture.

*Sony XBR 929 & Sony XBR8-Denon 3311CI-Mirage V2 FS speakers w/S10 Sub-Oppo 93-Darbee DVP5000-Harmony 1100
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post #8009 of 8405 Old 06-18-2014, 11:28 AM
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I wonder why some units reset frequently, and others don't. Is it a power supply issue? Mine has reset only once in the year that I've owned it.
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post #8010 of 8405 Old 06-18-2014, 12:11 PM
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Thx for the quick response, the problem I'm having started as the up function wasn't responding now other functions are failing. I recently (6mos) replaced battery I contacted CS at Darbee they suggested try another battery she explained the sml bulb in remote should light (indicating transmission of signal) I then noticed bulb was not igniting. Mine is set at HD/47 unit works well ....remote sux. I post results of battery repl purchased at Radio Shack ??? will try to locate a duracell or other high quality battery.
My remote has worked fine for almost 2 years, but I've never seen a bulb light up since day one.

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