Darbee vision darblet - Page 293 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8761 of 8784 Old 07-04-2015, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwok lau View Post
Besides "Darbeeized" as you mentioned above, its longevity and automatic change to default settings are another issue. These are the common complaints. I have my Darbee Darblet a little over 1 year. Seldom use it. It is switched off when not in use. Last usage was a few months ago. Lately I tried to turned it on. Its green led light flashed once and death. Automatic change of default by itself happened a few times. Darbee Vision was asking me to return for testing. Refurbished unit is about $150 if my unit is not repairable. $300 price tag on new purchase that only serves 2 years is TOO expensive.
I would probably bite on a refurb. Where do you see them refurbished for $150?
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post #8762 of 8784 Old 07-04-2015, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kwok lau View Post
Besides "Darbeeized" as you mentioned above, its longevity and automatic change to default settings are another issue. These are the common complaints. I have my Darbee Darblet a little over 1 year. Seldom use it. It is switched off when not in use. Last usage was a few months ago. Lately I tried to turned it on. Its green led light flashed once and death. Automatic change of default by itself happened a few times. Darbee Vision was asking me to return for testing. Refurbished unit is about $150 if my unit is not repairable. $300 price tag on new purchase that only serves 2 years is TOO expensive.
I have owned the DVP5000 since Aug 2012. It has always been on for almost 3 years now. Never any handshake issues and 3 maybe 4 resets. Maybe turning it on and off is what caused you to have a death. Sorry it did not work out for you. I have mind set at 50-60% HD on a Sharp 70" LED LCD display.
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post #8763 of 8784 Old 07-04-2015, 01:07 PM
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My Darblet caused havoc once inserted into my system - HDMI handshake issues, including sound drop outs (like the center channel sound going missing). The issues always disappeared when I pulled the Darblet out of the chain, and re-appeared with it in the chain. Didn't matter where in the chain I put it, or whether I tried different HDMI cables. Finally getting rid of the Darblet, replacing it in the chain with the Lumagen 2041, finally rid me of those problems. Quite a number of folks have reported similar issues with the Darblet in their systems.
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post #8764 of 8784 Old 07-04-2015, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
My Darblet caused havoc once inserted into my system - HDMI handshake issues, including sound drop outs (like the center channel sound going missing). The issues always disappeared when I pulled the Darblet out of the chain, and re-appeared with it in the chain. Didn't matter where in the chain I put it, or whether I tried different HDMI cables. Finally getting rid of the Darblet, replacing it in the chain with the Lumagen 2041, finally rid me of those problems. Quite a number of folks have reported similar issues with the Darblet in their systems.
And most of those reporting the issue were able to solve the handshake issues. Either by changing lengths of HDMI cables or adjust color space in the various components. On a few occasions like you it just didn't work out.
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post #8765 of 8784 Old 07-04-2015, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post
I would probably bite on a refurb. Where do you see them refurbished for $150?
------------
Darbee Vision quoted me the price, if my unit could not be repaired by them. I don't think they can't repair it. Unless they just don't want to repair and exchange a refurbished one. You can email and ask for the price again. It should be $149 to be exact.
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post #8766 of 8784 Old 07-04-2015, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post
I have owned the DVP5000 since Aug 2012. It has always been on for almost 3 years now. Never any handshake issues and 3 maybe 4 resets. Maybe turning it on and off is what caused you to have a death. Sorry it did not work out for you. I have mind set at 50-60% HD on a Sharp 70" LED LCD display.
-------------------
Thank for your response. I did not turn it on and off frequently. In fact I only spent 1 hour or 2 every month at the most. I switched off all my AV gears when stop watching. Have no problem with other gears, but the Darbee Darblet 5000. It is not acceptable to me that it died at early.
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post #8767 of 8784 Old 07-06-2015, 10:54 AM
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My video output is split between two projectors, a JVC LCoS that I use for dedicated 2D Blu-ray watching, and a Sharp DLP that I use for 3D and for general purpose TV watching. The Darblet affects them differently. I could comfortably watch the JVC with the Darblet set at Hi-Def 45%, but that looks too harsh on the Sharp. I dialed it down to 40% and it works fine for both.

I consider this a set-it-and-forget-it device. I have left it on at at that setting for the past couple years. I don't even think about whether it's on or off anymore. It just does its thing in the background.

If I had to make a conscious decision about "Am I going to turn it on for this or not?", then human nature would compel me to constantly second guess myself. "Did I make the right decision? Would it have been better off in this case? What's it doing to the picture? Can I tell the difference? Should I change the setting? Does that pixel right there look right?"

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post #8768 of 8784 Old 07-06-2015, 10:54 AM
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My video output is split between two projectors, a JVC LCoS that I use for dedicated 2D Blu-ray watching, and a Sharp DLP that I use for 3D and for general purpose TV watching. The Darblet affects them differently. I could comfortably watch the JVC with the Darblet set at Hi-Def 45%, but that looks too harsh on the Sharp. I dialed it down to 40% and it works fine for both.

I consider this a set-it-and-forget-it device. I have left it on at at that setting for the past couple years. I don't even think about whether it's on or off anymore. It just does its thing in the background.

If I had to make a conscious decision about "Am I going to turn it on for this or not?", then human nature would compel me to constantly second guess myself. "Did I make the right decision? Would it have been better off in this case? What's it doing to the picture? Can I tell the difference? Should I change the setting? Does that pixel right there look right?"

That way lies madness.

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post #8769 of 8784 Old 07-06-2015, 03:01 PM
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That is why it will create a habit of turning on and off the menu more frequently by most users, as to ensure it is working.
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post #8770 of 8784 Old 07-07-2015, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post
My video output is split between two projectors, a JVC LCoS that I use for dedicated 2D Blu-ray watching, and a Sharp DLP that I use for 3D and for general purpose TV watching. The Darblet affects them differently. I could comfortably watch the JVC with the Darblet set at Hi-Def 45%, but that looks too harsh on the Sharp. I dialed it down to 40% and it works fine for both.

I consider this a set-it-and-forget-it device. I have left it on at at that setting for the past couple years. I don't even think about whether it's on or off anymore. It just does its thing in the background.

If I had to make a conscious decision about "Am I going to turn it on for this or not?", then human nature would compel me to constantly second guess myself. "Did I make the right decision? Would it have been better off in this case? What's it doing to the picture? Can I tell the difference? Should I change the setting? Does that pixel right there look right?"

That way lies madness.
I can't consider it set-and-forget for various reasons (already mentioned) but including the fact it will emphasize artifacts, film grain etc. On a clean movie like Avatar a setting of 40 can add some clarity/pop. But for many other movies (often older, including DVD occasionally) that I watch, a setting of 40 can make artifacts and film grain overly pronounced. Same when I try to use it for some sports, where the Darbee can add some punch, but also on less than pristine feeds, amplify
the image noise and make things look more artificial.

I just watched the movie Candyman and tried the Darbee at various settings. At almost any setting where I started to notice any difference to the image - e.g. 15 and above - the grain, and the slightly digital nature of the image started to become more emphasized as well. For me settings above 30 really started to interfere with my enjoyment of the image. I ended up around 15 or so.

Of course I could just "set-and-forget" the Darbee, and then just start attributing the emphasized artifacts, grain etc to the source. But, why? The beauty of something like the Darbee is having the flexibility. I didn't have to live with the extra grainy image of the movie, I could dial back the Darbee and enjoy the image more.

Of course this is all personal tolerance stuff. Lots of people may not want to "bother" touching the controls for the Darbee once set up...but then may be in to calibrating their displays themselves which, to me, is an almost horrific amount of time to spend on non-movie-watching activity (that is including the amount of education and learning involved to even become proficient at decent calibration...you want a "that way lies madness" scenario, just inhabit the calibration threads for any projector or display!).
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post #8771 of 8784 Old 07-07-2015, 09:32 AM
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I find settings of HD 40-45% needed in order to see a somewhat obvious impact on the image, but then as mentioned grain and facial features start to become too obvious. I have been running with Full Pop in the 20-25% range now and I like that better. More of the image is impacted across the board.

This is on a 75" LED from about 11ft away.
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post #8772 of 8784 Old 07-07-2015, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
I can't consider it set-and-forget for various reasons (already mentioned) but including the fact it will emphasize artifacts, film grain etc. On a clean movie like Avatar a setting of 40 can add some clarity/pop. But for many other movies (often older, including DVD occasionally) that I watch, a setting of 40 can make artifacts and film grain overly pronounced. Same when I try to use it for some sports, where the Darbee can add some punch, but also on less than pristine feeds, amplify
the image noise and make things look more artificial.

I just watched the movie Candyman and tried the Darbee at various settings. At almost any setting where I started to notice any difference to the image - e.g. 15 and above - the grain, and the slightly digital nature of the image started to become more emphasized as well. For me settings above 30 really started to interfere with my enjoyment of the image. I ended up around 15 or so.

Of course I could just "set-and-forget" the Darbee, and then just start attributing the emphasized artifacts, grain etc to the source. But, why? The beauty of something like the Darbee is having the flexibility. I didn't have to live with the extra grainy image of the movie, I could dial back the Darbee and enjoy the image more.

Of course this is all personal tolerance stuff. Lots of people may not want to "bother" touching the controls for the Darbee once set up...but then may be in to calibrating their displays themselves which, to me, is an almost horrific amount of time to spend on non-movie-watching activity (that is including the amount of education and learning involved to even become proficient at decent calibration...you want a "that way lies madness" scenario, just inhabit the calibration threads for any projector or display!).
To each their own, obviously. I'm not going to tell you what you should like or not like. It's just that, to me, this seems like a case of throwing out the good with the bad.

Sure, some movies are grainy, and some DVDs/Blu-rays have artifacts. The Darblet doesn't add those things to the image. Does it exaggerate them? Maybe, but not enough at the 40% setting that it bothers me, personally. Not on my equipment, anyway. Yours may be different.

I could turn off the Darblet if I see this happen, but then all the good parts of the image look dull and blurry.

In any equipment I've used the Darblet with, 15% is below the threshold where any change it makes to the image is perceptible. In which case, why bother using it at all?

As I recall, you use a JVC projector with E-Shift. Perhaps that interacts with the Darblet differently than my projector (which doesn't have E-Shift)? I don't know. 15% just seems really, really low. And then you say that you usually prefer not to use it at all.

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post #8773 of 8784 Old 07-07-2015, 01:09 PM
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To each their own, obviously. I'm not going to tell you what you should like or not like. It's just that, to me, this seems like a case of throwing out the good with the bad.

Sure, some movies are grainy, and some DVDs/Blu-rays have artifacts. The Darblet doesn't add those things to the image. Does it exaggerate them? Maybe, but not enough at the 40% setting that it bothers me, personally. Not on my equipment, anyway. Yours may be different.

I could turn off the Darblet if I see this happen, but then all the good parts of the image look dull and blurry.

In any equipment I've used the Darblet with, 15% is below the threshold where any change it makes to the image is perceptible. In which case, why bother using it at all?

As I recall, you use a JVC projector with E-Shift. Perhaps that interacts with the Darblet differently than my projector (which doesn't have E-Shift)? I don't know. 15% just seems really, really low. And then you say that you usually prefer not to use it at all.
I've used the JVC e-shift, and only noticed the improvement with the Darbee
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post #8774 of 8784 Old 07-08-2015, 04:50 PM
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...Of course this is all personal tolerance stuff.
It is definitely that. The widely varied interaction between different displays, devices, screens and seating distances are also a huge and independent variable.

The Darbee effect is so different from one room and one video chain to the next. I see the Darbee as indispensable in our front projection movie room (at least, with our current equipment set in that room), but it is notably less of a difference maker in our flat screen game room. Different devices, viewing angles, lighting, display, etc. So I can easily imagine a room and device-set where the Darbee would be perceived very differently than in either of those settings.

But I love the Darbee plus, where it can be realized. And I'm a tinkerer, so I like that part too. Though once it has its place in a given room, it is set and forget for us, with only relatively minor and infrequent adjustments based on content.

And I am fairly certain (though only that) that in the event I could get 100 people to look at the image in our movie room with, and without, the Darby enabled, that almost all sets of those eyes would see a plus with the Darby enabled, in that setting.

Come to think of it, that's pretty much already happened ...


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post #8775 of 8784 Old 07-10-2015, 11:32 AM
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Redmere HDMI Compatible??

Sorry if this was mentioned already but, I was curious if anyone has tested the Darbee 5000 w/ Redmere active HDMI cables? Is using 2 redmere cables for input/output gonna cause a problem. Trying to avoid spending $500 for the dvp-5100. Appreciate any info.
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post #8776 of 8784 Old 07-10-2015, 12:01 PM
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I also want to know if any Active HDMI cable user got any issue with the Darbee Darblet 5000.
I tried a 40 feet long Redmere Active HDMI cable btw Darbee 5000 and Sony 40ES projector. The green light inside Darbee flashed once and nothing showed up on screen. I pulled out the HDMI cable. The red light inside Darbee flashed once and nothing happened. I found out afterward that the HDMI cable was running along with a electric wire. That was the reason the Redmere active cable is not passing through video signal to the projector. I placed the HDMI cable away from the electric wire and remove the Darbee from the link. Video showed up screen eventually.
I then linked the Darbee back to the projector. Same problem as before.........Green light flashed once and dead; pulled out the HDMI cable, Red light flashed once and dead.
The power adaptor's red light on all the time, so the adaptor is not defective.
Emailed Darbee Vision. They did not have a clue what ran wrong and asked me to mail it to then for testing. I sent 2 days ago. They should get it today. Will see what they say soon.
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post #8777 of 8784 Old 07-10-2015, 01:39 PM
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Sorry if this was mentioned already but, I was curious if anyone has tested the Darbee 5000 w/ Redmere active HDMI cables? Is using 2 redmere cables for input/output gonna cause a problem. Trying to avoid spending $500 for the dvp-5100. Appreciate any info.
I use 2 6' Redmere's on 2 different Dardee's (the original version) and have no problems.
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post #8778 of 8784 Old 07-11-2015, 12:29 PM
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I would probably bite on a refurb. Where do you see them refurbished for $150?
I just bought a refurbished DVP 5000 thru Amazon. $149. Arrived yesterday.
Here's what I wrote to support@DarbeeVision.com:

'The unit lights up and very obviously processes the signal
and must be set to 'full pop' because now there is a blue fringe
around the hair of heads, and even the Dish guide bars have very
obvious blue highlights.

Remote has no effect, even when pointed directly at the IR 'eye' from inches away.
Looking at the IR sender light via a digital camera confirms it works, but has no effect.

More importantly, nothing I do by pushing the buttons effects the picture.
Even powering off makes no change, except on the written Darbee display on the TV.
Pushing up or down effects the display in terms of changing the designated percentage, but does not change the strength of processing. Blue halos even at "0%."
'Menu' opens the menu, set to Hi Def, and allows manual cycling, tho' nothing else. '
Good picture was restored only by removing the Darblet and restoring the connection via HDMI

I've already started the return procedure at Amazon.

Could be 'operator error,' the usual problem , but I doubt it since it is obviously processing the image and I can't turn it off, even with the 'off' button as opposed to the remote.

Thought I'd post here, since one of you may think of something I missed, but the setup system is pretty simple. I'm going from a Dish satellite box to a Vizio M70-c3.

The other concern I was already aware of. Since the Darblet is inline between source and display, there appears to be no way to place it between Netflix/Amazon obtained via the 'smart' TV.

Last edited by Dan Arnold; 07-11-2015 at 12:30 PM. Reason: added phrase
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post #8779 of 8784 Old 07-14-2015, 06:26 AM
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I had not used my Darbee Deblet 5000 for months, with power switch complete off. I tried to power it up this afternoon. A green light flashed once inside the case and death. There is no reset button. I had pushed all the buttons, but no reaction. It is death. Sent a email to Darbee Vision and awaiting their advice. What a bad day.
I have had my Darbee since 2012 and last week mine stopped working, no video being transmitted and the LED's flashing erratically. I had a similar problem with a WDTV and the solution was a new power supply. Looking at the Darbee website confirmed the power supply could be the problem. I looked up the power supply on Google and was able to buy one for £7.03 delivered ($10.97), which solved the problem and the Darbee is up and running again.

I am in the UK and the power supply is different to the one featured on the Darbee web site.
http://www.darbeevision.com/accessor...l-power-supply $30
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post #8780 of 8784 Old 07-15-2015, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b_dogg623 View Post
Sorry if this was mentioned already but, I was curious if anyone has tested the Darbee 5000 w/ Redmere active HDMI cables? Is using 2 redmere cables for input/output gonna cause a problem. Trying to avoid spending $500 for the dvp-5100. Appreciate any info.
I use a 35' Redmere on the long run from the AVR to the projector, and it resolved hand-shaking issues that had been persistent with a standard cable. It's part of the same chain with a Darblet, but not directly connected (that chain is Source > Darblet > >Splitter > AVR > Projector). All HDMI's are 6' except the long Redmere.

Using more than one Redmere shouldn't cause a problem. Remember they are directional, and won't pass a signal unless you "follow the arrows".

You can use the Thread Search tool, and search this thread using the term "Redmere", and you'll find comments from other Darbee owners about Redmere.

Once you get towards $500 for the Darbee effect, the Oppo 103D is another option.
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post #8781 of 8784 Old 07-18-2015, 07:08 AM
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[QUOTE=Dolus;35745114]I have had my Darbee since 2012 and last week mine stopped working, no video being transmitted and the LED's flashing erratically. I had a similar problem with a WDTV and the solution was a new power supply. Looking at the Darbee website confirmed the power supply could be the problem. I looked up the power supply on Google and was able to buy one for £7.03 delivered ($10.97), which solved the problem and the Darbee is up and running again.

I am in the UK and the power supply is different to the one featured on the Darbee web site.
http://www.darbeevision.com/accessor...l-power-supply $30[/QUOTE)
------------
Thank for your advice. I had shipped my unit back to Darbee Vision in California 2 weeks ago. They are sending it back per USP tracking. I sent them an email last night asking what ran wrong with the until and what to prevent re-occurrence. Will there be a problem not to have the unit on power stand by mode and using active high speed HDMI cables. Hope they will answer me, then I share the answer later.
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post #8782 of 8784 Old 07-21-2015, 08:14 AM
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This is the advice from Darbee Vision. My Darblet DVP5000 is on its way back to me. Darbee Vision's quick help and response is 2nd to none. Very happy to buy stuff from this company which has great customer service.


Quote:


Hello Kwok,


We could not get your Darblet DVP-5000 to replicate the video pass problem that you discribed. When we tested the unit we were able to power it on and have a stable video pass through the unit. We reset the unit back to its factory settings and all the LEDs were either lit up or blinking as they should have been. The power supply that you sent was working in our testing setup, but we have found that those power supplies have been inconsistent in the past and replaced it with a more reliable one. There should not be a problem with either leaving the unit in standby mode or switching the power on and off when you are not using the Darblet so whichever you prefer. Active high speed HDMI cables are compatible with the Darblet even at the lengths you have described in previous emails. I did notice however that we never discussed the HDMI cables that were used for the input of the Darblet. If the unit still wont pass video when you get it back try swapping out the input cable for one that is between 6ft and 20ft long. You do not owe us anything for the replacement power adapter or the inspection of your Darblet. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance. Thank you.


End-quoted.
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I received my Darblet 5000 and a new power adaptor yesterday from Darbee Vision. It works now and pass 3D movie smoothly with a 40 feet Redmere active fast speed HDMI cable to my Sony 40ES projector. The HDMI cable at the input is non-active cable.
My unit was purchased on Dec 2, 2013. The warranty has been expired, but they did not charge me the testing of the unit and adaptor replacement. They did not charge me the shipping fee as well. Great after sale support from Darbee Vision. This is the way to retain old customers and to get more new ones. Highly recommend any one to buy stuff from this company.
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post #8784 of 8784 Unread Today, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwok lau View Post
This is the advice from Darbee Vision: "... You do not owe us anything for the replacement power adapter or the inspection of your Darblet. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance. Thank you."
Great news and update, thanks!


Every once in a while, quite inexplicably, things actually go according to plan.
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