Official SONOS owners thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 1055 Old 03-15-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jackodagreat View Post

I too have a NAS (HP WHS), but my SONOS local library is from a 1TB USB drive that is connected to a USB capable router (Netgear 3800). I am really liking this setup since I like to have my server be able to power up/down on its schedule, perform maintenance, etc. I feel that this is also a low-power solution as well. Just another way of achieving the same goals I guess...

+1 Same setup and love it minus the server none of that. But got my hdd connected to the router and works perfect.
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post #542 of 1055 Old 03-15-2012, 07:21 PM
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Hello Guys,

I just bought the SONOS Connect and I have a question...

How to I sync it to my wireless router? I don't want to run any cable from the router to the Sonos.

I'm trying to follow the steps but I might be missing something.

Do I need to hook it up for the first time on the Router?

thanks!
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post #543 of 1055 Old 03-15-2012, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by runner2k View Post

Hello Guys,

I just bought the SONOS Connect and I have a question...

How to I sync it to my wireless router? I don't want to run any cable from the router to the Sonos.

I'm trying to follow the steps but I might be missing something.

Do I need to hook it up for the first time on the Router?

thanks!

You need at least one sonos device (either the connect or a bridge) permanently connected via a lan cable to the router then all other sonos devices can sync through that to the network.
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post #544 of 1055 Old 03-15-2012, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Apgood View Post

You need at least one sonos device (either the connect or a bridge) permanently connected via a lan cable to the router then all other sonos devices can sync through that to the network.

Thank you Apgood for you input.

Well, I have a D-Link wireless router sitting around. I'm thinking here and
this D-Link could actually be my "BRIDGE"(Access Point Bridge), isn't true?

The D-Link would be my second wireless router and the SONOS would be wired to the D-LINK. (my Main wireless router would communicate to my D-link. I would change the channels on each wireless router so they don't conflict with each other using 1 and 11 ch...)

What about if I disable the DHCP and NAT and attach a static IP with the subnet mask I am using from the main wireless router?



EDIT: I will try it tomorrow... Will keep you guys posted. I don't believe SONOS Connect does not have a wireless built-in option...
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post #545 of 1055 Old 03-15-2012, 10:37 PM
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Wouldn't you still need to wire the second router...
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post #546 of 1055 Old 03-15-2012, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runner2k View Post


Thank you Apgood for you input.

Well, I have a D-Link wireless router sitting around. I'm thinking here and
this D-Link could actually be my "BRIDGE"(Access Point Bridge), isn't true?

The D-Link would be my second wireless router and the SONOS would be wired to the D-LINK. (my Main wireless router would communicate to my D-link. I would change the channels on each wireless router so they don't conflict with each other using 1 and 11 ch...)

What about if I disable the DHCP and NAT and attach a static IP with the subnet mask I am using from the main wireless router?

EDIT: I will try it tomorrow... Will keep you guys posted. I don't believe SONOS Connect does not have a wireless built-in option...

The bridge i was referring to is the Sonos Bridge which is used if you don't want to connect at least one Sonos device for music listening.

All Sonos devices have wireless, but it is a different sort of wireless to what your computers and router use. That's why you need to have at least one Sonos device wired to a router or wireless access point.

What you suggest should work if the Dlink and your router are wired together. If not then you would need to have both the dlink and the router on the same wireless channel so they can see each other and link together.
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post #547 of 1055 Old 03-16-2012, 12:59 AM
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post #548 of 1055 Old 03-16-2012, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apgood View Post


What you suggest should work if the Dlink and your router are wired together. If not then you would need to have both the dlink and the router on the same wireless channel so they can see each other and link together.


That's what I'm talking about! I will run some testing tonight!!
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post #549 of 1055 Old 03-16-2012, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Fernand View Post

https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answe...RFhDS1BjVGs%3D

Joe

Hey Joe,

Thanks for the link! I've already read this one. I'm actually a member of the SONOS Forum to get some help out there as well.
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post #550 of 1055 Old 03-16-2012, 06:03 AM
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I'd stick in a Sonos Bridge!

If you do manage to make your non-standard' plan work you're not going to get support from Sonos if you have to give them a call, Sonos Tech support is very good so I'd be keen to ensure it was available to me.

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If I've helped 'Like' me on Facebook - www.facebook.com/Octavainc

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post #551 of 1055 Old 03-16-2012, 09:08 PM
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Established Sonos system; S5, ZP90, ZP120 - previously working well with S5 connected via a Netgear Powerline 85. Changed ISP - now with cable modem going to Monoprice wireless router MS-WN513N2. S5 connects & works fine with desktop controller & Sonos controller.

Wireless settings are [Gateway], 192.168.0.1, WAN Access Type [DHCP Client], Wireless band [2.4 GHz (B,G,N)], mode [AP], Channel Width [40 MHz], ControlSideband [Upper], Channel number [6], Security [WPA2(AES)] (default settings except for the security)

Problem connecting to the system with the iPad controller app. Since the new setup the Sonos app runs very slowly (sometimes times out before it advances). The iPad app appears to 'see' the Sonos unit & tries to connect but takes a very long time trying & never fully connects. Frequently just closes without even getting to the [searching for your sonos system] message.

Original iPad with iOS 5.1 (9B176) [up to date]

I uninstalled & reinstalled the app & connected the S5 directly to the router & no improvement.

Previously had no problems with the sonos system or the app.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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post #552 of 1055 Old 03-17-2012, 05:48 AM
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my guess, and it is just that, a guess...
but I don't think the issue is with sonos, or between sonos and the router, my guess would be it is an issue between the router and the ipad...
or maybe the sonosNET is overlapping your wifi channel or something?

just for fun, can you run the Ipad wired directly into the router(do they even have a Ethernet port? or a usb port that you can plug a dongle into?)

NOTE: As one wise professional something once stated, I am ignorant & childish, with a mindset comparable to 9/11 troofers and wackjob conspiracy theorists. so don't take anything I say as advice...
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post #553 of 1055 Old 03-17-2012, 07:48 AM
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I'm thinking its a conflict between the my WLAN and sonos' MESH networks. Not sure what I can change on the router to make them play nice. Not much in the way of adjustments on the Sonos. [I did try changing the channel]
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post #554 of 1055 Old 03-17-2012, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentson View Post

Established Sonos system; S5, ZP90, ZP120 - previously working well with S5 connected via a Netgear Powerline 85. Changed ISP - now with cable modem going to Monoprice wireless router MS-WN513N2. S5 connects & works fine with desktop controller & Sonos controller.

Wireless settings are [Gateway], 192.168.0.1, WAN Access Type [DHCP Client], Wireless band [2.4 GHz (B,G,N)], mode [AP], Channel Width [40 MHz], ControlSideband [Upper], Channel number [6], Security [WPA2(AES)] (default settings except for the security)

Problem connecting to the system with the iPad controller app. Since the new setup the Sonos app runs very slowly (sometimes times out before it advances). The iPad app appears to 'see' the Sonos unit & tries to connect but takes a very long time trying & never fully connects. Frequently just closes without even getting to the [searching for your sonos system] message.

Original iPad with iOS 5.1 (9B176) [up to date]

I uninstalled & reinstalled the app & connected the S5 directly to the router & no improvement.

Previously had no problems with the sonos system or the app.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Anytime you replace a router, you should perform a reboot to make sure there are no IP conflicts. Do the following:

Shut down all on this list, then re-power, in this order:


Modem
Router
Wired ZonePlayers and ZoneBridges
Wireless ZonePlayers and ZoneBridges
NAS if you use one
Everything else (computers, printers, etc.)

Wait until the component is fully up before restarting the next on the list. This will assure that all IP addresses are legitimate.
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post #555 of 1055 Old 03-17-2012, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jgatie View Post


Anytime you replace a router, you should perform a reboot to make sure there are no IP conflicts. Do the following:

Shut down all on this list, then re-power, in this order:

Modem
Router
Wired ZonePlayers and ZoneBridges
Wireless ZonePlayers and ZoneBridges
NAS if you use one
Everything else (computers, printers, etc.)

Wait until the component is fully up before restarting the next on the list. This will assure that all IP addresses are legitimate.

Thanks! That did it. I reset everything at one point or another but your [one at a time] technique did the trick. Kind of a PITA going one at a time with router & two switches filled took quite a while.

Thanks again!
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post #556 of 1055 Old 03-18-2012, 03:29 PM
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Apple Lossless Question

Been a very happy Sonos customer for years - up to 8 zones now. Just re-ripped my music collection to apple lossless. Plays fine through 1 zone but when I group several zones together I get a lot of dropouts, goes silent for a few seconds, comes back a few seconds, ...

Anyone else experience / fix this?

Thanks
Mike
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post #557 of 1055 Old 03-18-2012, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeWojcik View Post

Just re-ripped my music collection to apple lossless. Plays fine through 1 zone but when I group several zones together I get a lot of dropouts, goes silent for a few seconds, comes back a few seconds, ...

I use ALAC with 7 zones with no problem, often run 2 or 3 grouped zones. You running most zones wireless or wired? What kind of cabling or wireless setup?
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post #558 of 1055 Old 03-19-2012, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeWojcik View Post

Apple Lossless Question

Been a very happy Sonos customer for years - up to 8 zones now. Just re-ripped my music collection to apple lossless. Plays fine through 1 zone but when I group several zones together I get a lot of dropouts, goes silent for a few seconds, comes back a few seconds, ...

Anyone else experience / fix this?

Thanks
Mike

I also have many zones and was OK for years.....then lots of dropouts....even lost zones......turns out it was interference with the player wireless channel I was using. Sonus support asked me to try channel 11 and it has worked fine ever since
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post #559 of 1055 Old 03-20-2012, 03:53 PM
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Thanks guys will try the channel change tonight. Most my zones are wireless.
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post #560 of 1055 Old 03-23-2012, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeWojcik View Post

Thanks guys will try the channel change tonight. Most my zones are wireless.

Your Sonos channel should be different from your wireless router. Also, turn off any '40MHz', 'wide', 'turbo', 'up to 300Mbps' modes on your router. These modes span multiple channels and cause interference.
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post #561 of 1055 Old 03-25-2012, 06:43 AM
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Wow you really trying to save $50 to set up the system properly?
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post #562 of 1055 Old 03-28-2012, 03:01 PM
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I just bought a Connect to my Sonos system in the house that is used on the 1st floor. The Bridge is in the basement almost directly under it. I also have a Play3 on the 2nd floor bedroom.

The Play3 plays fine and all is well on the 2nd floor. But the Connect on the 1st floor keep disappearing from the controller (PC, iPad, iPhone, etc.). And touching the button on it or try to push Mute+Vol to re-syn doesn't do anything too. It just looks like it got "locked up" like a PC..... The only thing that I could do is unplug the power cord and replug again, and it's all fine and doesn't even need to "reconnect" to the Bridge.

Is my Connect is lemon/broken? When I touch the top of it, it does feel a little warm too (I leave it on 24/7 which that's what it should be right?). I could still return and exchange for another one but I wanna see I'm not at fault first.....
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post #563 of 1055 Old 04-09-2012, 01:53 PM
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I have a yamaha rx-v659 powering my system. On zone 2 I have 4 pairs of speakers (3 indoors, and 1 outdoors) connected via a speaker selector.

I would like to get more sound outdoors. I currently have a pair of Sonance Mariner 52 on my deck, but my yard extends about 80-100 feet past the deck, so the sound diminishes as you go further back. On windy days, or when the neighbors are blasting their music, it is hard to hear ours.

I was thinking of hooking up an amp to the zone 2 preouts and moving the outdoor speakers from the selector box to the amp.

I was also looking at adding another pair of speakers (Boston Voyager 5) at the back of the yard mounted on my shed (about 80 ft away from the house)

I am considering getting the SONOS ZP120 as the amp, but have several questions:

1) Will this amp be sufficient to power 2 pairs of speakers?

2) We listen to mainly CDs and XM (satellite). Yes I know I need to burn all my CDs to digital files, but haven't done so yet. What is the advantage of getting the ZP120, instead of another amp? The only one I can think of is being able to control the SONOS via my Android phone while out in the yard.

3) Since my router isn't near my AVR, I need to get the Bridge. Do I need any other SONOS equipment?

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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post #564 of 1055 Old 04-09-2012, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by carjeff View Post

1) Will this amp be sufficient to power 2 pairs of speakers?

2) We listen to mainly CDs and XM (satellite). Yes I know I need to burn all my CDs to digital files, but haven't done so yet. What is the advantage of getting the ZP120, instead of another amp? The only one I can think of is being able to control the SONOS via my Android phone while out in the yard.

3) Since my router isn't near my AVR, I need to get the Bridge. Do I need any other SONOS equipment?

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

1) Maybe if they are not too difficult of load and / or you don't turn them up too loud. It wouldn't be my first choice for this application.

2) Since it doesn't sound like the rest of the yard would be hooked to the Sonos you don't get much advantage except being able to "remote control" the back end of the yard. There are lot's of ways of doing that...

3) No, but if you really wanted to use a Sonos I'd put a ZP90 on the Yamaha. That might also let you skip the bridge. Then you could group the two Sonos when you wanted to control the entire back yard or just use the Sonos on the amp via it's output as you desire.
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post #565 of 1055 Old 04-10-2012, 07:12 AM
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1) Maybe if they are not too difficult of load and / or you don't turn them up too loud. It wouldn't be my first choice for this application.

Thanks for the reply. What would be your first choice? I'm looking for a smaller amp to fit the cabinet. I probably can't fit a std 2U unit. My local dealer recommended the parasound 275. Any other suggestions?
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post #566 of 1055 Old 04-10-2012, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by carjeff View Post

Thanks for the reply. What would be your first choice? I'm looking for a smaller amp to fit the cabinet. I probably can't fit a std 2U unit. My local dealer recommended the parasound 275. Any other suggestions?

If that's your budget range not a whole lot comes to mind right off the bat. Personally, I'd probably go with the Emotiva for indoor use, which one depending on the room size and needs, but they have nothing that really competes directly with the Parasound 275. For outdoor party type use I might just pick something from Parts Express: if you're serious about running a lot of outdoor speakers then going to a 70v system might make more sense then conventional home audio stuff for example a pair of Pyramid PA305s or a Bogen of some kind, but then you've got to replace your speakers (or add transformers). Alternatively, you might also look at stuff like the Behringer A500 or EP2000.
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post #567 of 1055 Old 05-21-2012, 01:25 PM
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1) Maybe if they are not too difficult of load and / or you don't turn them up too loud. It wouldn't be my first choice for this application.

2) Since it doesn't sound like the rest of the yard would be hooked to the Sonos you don't get much advantage except being able to "remote control" the back end of the yard. There are lot's of ways of doing that...

3) No, but if you really wanted to use a Sonos I'd put a ZP90 on the Yamaha. That might also let you skip the bridge. Then you could group the two Sonos when you wanted to control the entire back yard or just use the Sonos on the amp via it's output as you desire.

Thanks for the advice. I got the ZP90 a few weeks ago and connected it to the Yamaha. Now my thought is to get a ZP120/Connect:Amp and place it in the shed. I already have electric in the shed, so all I would have to do is mount the speakers. This would save me from digging 80 ft of speaker wire through the yard. Is this a good idea? The docs on the Sonos indicate that it can operate in temps bet 32F and 104F, so I should be ok in that respect. Should I place it directly on a shelf, or get some sort of cabinet to help protect from the dust that might be present? Any other suggestions?
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post #568 of 1055 Old 05-22-2012, 07:19 AM
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http://blog.sonos.com/news/introducing-sub/

http://www.sonos.com/introducing/sub

Quote:


Introducing SUB

n June 19, the newest, deepest addition to the Sonos family arrives: the Sonos SUB. It's going to take the whole Sonos System one seismic step closer to the spine-curling, jaw-dropping, full body experience music was meant to be.



Whether you're listening to Beethoven's thunderous 5th or the pounding bassline of the latest four-on-the-floor obsession, the new SUB will fill any room with thick layers of bottomless sound that let you hear and feel the weight of every chord, kick, splash and roll.

Place it anywhere in a room, plug it into a power source, press a button and follow some simple prompts on your controller. The SUB wirelessly connects with your other Sonos components for a flawlessly optimized, whole-room listening experience. Within minutes of taking it out of the box, you won't just hear the difference our new SUB makesyou'll feel it with every bone in your body.

Whether standing up or lying down, the SUB's unique design and wireless signal allows you to place it anywhere you want in the roomeven lying flat under a couchwithout any loss in sound or performance.

The SUB works with all Sonos amplified components: CONNECT:AMP; PLAY:5; PLAY:3. It does not work with the non-amplified Sonos CONNECT.

Launching on mid-June, the SUB is available in a high-gloss black lacquer finish for $699 USD ($749 CAD, £699 EU, £599 UK). A black matte version will be available in September 2012 for $599 USD ($649 CAD, £599 EU, £499 UK).



OTA | Netflix | Hulu+ | Amazon Prime | MLB.tv & MLS Live with No Blackouts!
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post #569 of 1055 Old 05-22-2012, 08:35 AM
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They are getting ripped in the comments section on their blog. I agree something like a Play:1 would be better - cheaper entry option. However, I have to imagine they did research with this first. Could be great if you have limited space I suppose. Package with two P:3s could be good.
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post #570 of 1055 Old 05-22-2012, 11:38 AM
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Terrible idea, in my opinion. I think an outdoor designed, or entry level would have been a better idea. Maybe a Connect amp with multiple zones built in (like the NuVo 12 channel).

I would have considered a $150 Play 1, or a $300 outdoor Play 3. No sub for me, I have my Connect plugged in to my HT and master bedroom. That's enough for me.
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