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post #1531 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

The ATSC standard allows broadcast of 1080x1920 at 23.976, 24, 29.97 and 30 fps progressive; no p60. Every tuner is supposed to be able to handle these formats, but I don't know of any broadcaster using them.

All North American over the air broadcasts are at either 1080/59i or 720/60p.

I think I saw where the satellite companies can send some movies (PPV?) in 24p (ie. 23.976p), but have never seen that personally.
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post #1532 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 02:58 PM
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I believe there are technical reasons why there not used though and I believe it's because we don't have a compression level suitable enough to use it and still look good. That or going to 1080p would bring more artifacts into the equation. I'm no expert just theorizing.

Anyone know what the maximum kbps this Roku can handle? Can it playback full Bluray rips or am I limited to something like 20 Mbps?

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post #1533 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

I believe there are technical reasons why there not used though and I believe it's because we don't have a compression level suitable enough to use it and still look good. That or going to 1080p would bring more artifacts into the equation. I'm no expert just theorizing.

p24/23.976 should require less compression than i60; p30 is should be the same. It's p60, which isn't part of the ATSC spec, which can't be reasonably compressed as MPEG2 for broadcast.

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post #1534 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 03:18 PM
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So technically speaking they could give us 1080p but the bitrates wouldn't be any higher, thus the pq no better. Sounds like what Netflix did lol...

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post #1535 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

So technically speaking they could give us 1080p but the bitrates wouldn't be any higher, thus the pq no better. Sounds like what Netflix did lol...

p24 (or 23.976) for stuff that was filmed at that rate would be best for displays with refresh rates that are an even multiple of 24 Hz. Converting it to i60 or p60 has to introduce some judder. Of course, it's gotta be pretty bad to bother me--most HD broadcast television looks fine to me.

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post #1536 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by avf5 View Post

Thanks.smile.gif

I see your preference with TV inputs/advantage. But I’m curious … DD+ over optical (S/PDIF)? and Comcast channel (DD+ pass-through)/Moto dcx3200?

A quick look at The LG TV (LM6200), it has Dolby Digital Decoder. Generally, the LG TVs that handles DD+(from smart app or hdmi-input), seems to convert it to DD(legacy) before transport the signal over optical (see image below).

So, I’m not sure why your AVR shows DD+?

Btw, which Yamaha model you got? Also, which Comcast channels output DD+?






Here’re a couple of items to check if you get time,

Open Moto DCX3200 (secret) user system menu, and check the audio system setting (user menu) - From the Moto remote Control, turn it ON then press [Power/Off] Power button then press [menu] button (in quick succession) – you’ll see a white system menu– Scroll down to: “Additional HDMI Settings” > Press [Ok] > Scroll down to: “Audio Output:” > Press [Ok] > toggle between ‘Auto/Lpcm/ Pass-Through > Select Pass-Through - Press [Power/Off] to exit menu – press [Power/On] again to turn it On.



Also, while you at it, have a look at the video settings. fyi, best PQ is “NATIVE”:
(From Moto DCX3200 (secret) user system menu)
Scroll down to “HDMI/YPbpr Output”
Press [Ok] several times & set it to “NATIVE”
(note: “Native mode settings” should become active)
Scroll to “Native mode settings” and Press [Ok]
(note: You should see “MY TV Supports the following formats:”)
Mark only the following formats
[ ] 1080p 30
[ ] 1080p 24
[x] 1080i
[x] 720p
[x] 480p
[ ] 480i
Return to the main menu >>

* To exit menu, press [Power/On]
* To turn Moto back On, press [Power/On] again.

(btw, take extra caution when system menu is open, avoid making a change to any other settings you’re not sure of).

I am running the LG in engineering mode, which I enabled specifically so that it could handle DTS audio from files on my NAS. I don't know if this had other unintended effects, including its apparent ability to pass a DD+ signal unaltered via the Toslink output. As for the Motorola box, I have it configured for HDMI audio passthrough and the box is set to output all channels at the same resolution...1080p. There is always a slight pause on the TV screen when I have the box set to native and I go from a 720p channel to a 1080i channel, so I prefer to just have the box upconvert everything. As I mentioned before, the bitrate on some of the HD channels is quite low, so it seems to help a little with the picture quality. Anyway, after making the change you requested I tried looking for the channel with the DD+ audio, but after an hour or so I got bored with the whole thing so I stopped. It's not a channel I watch regularly, and I only happened upon it by accident one evening a few months ago. I do recall that it was some sort of news show, but aside from that I couldn't tell you anything else about it..though I literally have access to hundreds of channels on my service, but I am ashamed to admit that I routinely watch only about a dozen of them. I only contacted the headend manager at Comcast regarding the DD+ audio because I thought something was wrong with my AVR (a Yamaha RX-V673).
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post #1537 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post

There was a while that Time Warner (in Los Angeles) simply passed on the quite acceptable 19.2 Mbit off-air signal of local channels, but those days are long gone. They now step on it (kind of hard, too), and it never gets above about 12 Mbits, which falls apart rapidly with content that changes quickly, such as fast moving objects, bright lights at concerts, as well as subtle content like smoke, fog and sunsets. Of course MPG-2, 8 bits, and 4:2:0 don't help any.

It will be interesting to see how 4K to the home is accomplished. It will take new infrastructure and new set top boxes from everyone. I wouldn't hold my breath waiting - it could be OK, but it could just as well turn out to be this year's "3D in every living room" insanity.

My bet is on the latter, and I work with this stuff professionally every day.

The compression on the PBS channel I referred to in an earlier post is pretty heavy; they use a statistical multiplexer, and run 3 SD channels in addition to their HD feed (which makes "Downton Abbey" look so much like it was shot on VHS that I have never been able to watch a single episode).
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post #1538 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

I wonder if its actually DD+ or your AVR is mistakenly lighting up the indicator. You television shouldn't claim that it can handle DD+ and no upstream device should send it signals that it can't handle. I've also not heard of any cable channel broadcasting DD+, though Dolby does advertise it's potential use for the purpose. Whatever.
Hmmm--I hadn't considered the possibility of tweaking the settings to suit the nature of the content to be viewed on each source; you have to be pretty hardcore to do that biggrin.gif. Back in the analog connection days (component, VGA, RGBHV, etc) people would calibrate individual inputs to make the same test signal appear the same on each. Now, of course, the norm is to run everything through an AVR and into a single input on the display; it's the HDMI design model. I have eight devices running into this AVR for display on this panel (this PC, TiVo Roamio, Panasonic BDP, WD TV Live, Roku 3, Xbox 360, Xbox One and PS3). The television has a couple more HDMI, a few component and a DVI-I input which I used to use for my previous PC, a laptop with only VGA out.

I remember the old early morning HDNET test pattern loop. I hadn't thought about HDNET for a long time--it was a big deal in the early days of US HDTV; a channel whose content was exclusively HD. I see that it was rebranded "AXS TV" in July 2012; never heard of that.

When I bought the TV, I had a problem setting up the onboard apps. No matter what I tried, I could not log in to the LG App Store, and even the electronic registration wouldn't go through. And it would only play the descriptive audio whenever it streamed the movie files I have stored on my NAS. It wasn't until I enabled engineering mode and downloaded the latest firmware that things finally started working, and I was able to log into the app store and access the online content. In searching for a solution online I had read in one of the European forums that doing so would allow the TV's onboard DTS decoding to work, and I figured I had nothing to lose by messing around in the service menu. Needless to say, I was quite surprised when I realized how "far ahead" the engineering firmware was from that which is normally accessible by consumers. I have the TV set up to access the North American app store, but I have checked the offerings for other countries and there's some pretty cool stuff out there, though much of it is in a foreign language of course. The strange thing is that I have several files on my NAS that are encoded in DD+ as well as DTS, and the TV always ignores the DD+ stream and plays back the DTS stream.
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post #1539 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 07:48 PM
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...I have checked the offerings for other countries and there's some pretty cool stuff out there, though much of it is in a foreign language of course.

Many of us use services like Unblock-US.com, Unotelly.com and Adfreetime.com to access the Netflix libraries in other countries. They are DNS spoofers--you set the DNS addresses in your device (if it has a feature to allow that) or in your router to the DNS address of the company, then log into the service and specify what country's Netflix library you want to stream. Addfreetime is the cheapest ($2/month) and has a feature that will eliminate foreign language subtitles on English language films; in some countries for some titles these can not be defeated in the Netflix player menus.

You can search all Netflix libraries at moreflicks.com.

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post #1540 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post


I think I saw where the satellite companies can send some movies (PPV?) in 24p (ie. 23.976p), but have never seen that personally.

DirecTV has 24p PPV

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Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post


I remember the old early morning HDNET test pattern loop. I hadn't thought about HDNET for a long time--it was a big deal in the early days of US HDTV; a channel whose content was exclusively HD. I see that it was rebranded "AXS TV" in July 2012; never heard of that.

I still have the HDNET test pattern recorded on all three of my DirectTV HD DVR's - it is a decent sanity check that everything is working. AVSHD 709 from this site is a much better way to check and can be burned to disc or put on USB / local network to check from multiple devices.

HDNET was rebranded to AXS TV but HDNET Movies is still - well - HDNET Movies.

I agree with your comment about having one HDMI setting for all content. There may be some variation from device to device - but frankly there is variation from channel to channel or show to show or movie to movie. At the end of the day a well calibrated TV and correctly set sources will be best across most content.
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post #1541 of 1898 Old 03-09-2014, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

Many of us use services like Unblock-US.com, Unotelly.com and Adfreetime.com to access the Netflix libraries in other countries. They are DNS spoofers--you set the DNS addresses in your device (if it has a feature to allow that)

Aususwrt-Merlin's latest firmware for Asus Routers let's you set the DNS per local device in the router. Useful for devices (Roku 2's - not sure about Roku3's as I don't have one) that don't let you set the DNS server in the device.
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post #1542 of 1898 Old 03-10-2014, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by undecided View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

Many of us use services like Unblock-US.com, Unotelly.com and Adfreetime.com to access the Netflix libraries in other countries. They are DNS spoofers--you set the DNS addresses in your device (if it has a feature to allow that)

Aususwrt-Merlin's latest firmware for Asus Routers let's you set the DNS per local device in the router. Useful for devices (Roku 2's - not sure about Roku3's as I don't have one) that don't let you set the DNS server in the device.

Interesting. I really have to get around to changing the firmware in my cheapo RT-N16. I'm partial to Tomato variants though.

Roku 3 doesn't have DNS address settings either. Of the stuff that I have, WD TV Live, the game consoles (360, Xbox One, PS3), my BDPs and, of course, this PC, have local DNS settings--pretty much everything except for the TiVos and Rokus rolleyes.gif.

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post #1543 of 1898 Old 03-10-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by undecided View Post

Aususwrt-Merlin's latest firmware for Asus Routers let's you set the DNS per local device in the router. Useful for devices.

That sounds like a great feature. I use a similar workaround with Roku and Chromecast at the moment. I just run a simple DHCP server on Windows temporarily to issue DNS address to those devices that need special settings (disable DHCP on router, run Windows server, reset devices, kill Windows server, re-enable DHCP in router).
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post #1544 of 1898 Old 03-10-2014, 01:41 PM
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I am running the LG in engineering mode, which I enabled specifically so that it could handle DTS audio from files on my NAS. I don't know if this had other unintended effects, including its apparent ability to pass a DD+ signal unaltered via the Toslink output. As for the Motorola box, I have it configured for HDMI audio passthrough and the box is set to output all channels at the same resolution...1080p. There is always a slight pause on the TV screen when I have the box set to native and I go from a 720p channel to a 1080i channel, so I prefer to just have the box upconvert everything. As I mentioned before, the bitrate on some of the HD channels is quite low, so it seems to help a little with the picture quality. Anyway, after making the change you requested I tried looking for the channel with the DD+ audio, but after an hour or so I got bored with the whole thing so I stopped. It's not a channel I watch regularly, and I only happened upon it by accident one evening a few months ago. I do recall that it was some sort of news show, but aside from that I couldn't tell you anything else about it..though I literally have access to hundreds of channels on my service, but I am ashamed to admit that I routinely watch only about a dozen of them. I only contacted the headend manager at Comcast regarding the DD+ audio because I thought something was wrong with my AVR (a Yamaha RX-V673).

I doubt “LG engineering mode” overrides Sony/Philips (S/PDIF) protocol, but possibly misread AC3 frame header … since Moto dcx box wasn’t plugged into the Yamaha (via hdmi) DD+ reading was via “Info”?? Anyway, it is boring going thru hundreds of channels…. But if someday you see DD+, plug the Moto box directly to the AVR & double check it. (Setup > Information > Audio signal) that should give a better DD+ reading.

if you got time, you could verify this another way. Your Roku is already plugged into the LG TV. (if no Netflix acc) no need for vudu acc, launch the Vudu app, select [browse] and stream "2 Min Preview" (not “Watch Trailer”) & try the following 3 titles:

1. “Pirates of the Caribbean”: On Strange Tides
Select [browse] > search for the title “The Hobbit” > select "2 Min Preview" > select HDX > try it.
* This title is encoded in 7.1 Dolby Digital Plus (7.1DD+) – the AVR should display > “4/3/0.1 Dolby Digital +” (where “+” indicates “Plus”)

2. The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey
Select [browse] > search for the title “The Hobbit” > select 2 Min Preview > select HDX > try it.
* This title is encoded in 5.1 Dolby Digital Plus (5.1DD+) – the AVR should display “3/2/0.1 Dolby Digital+” (where “+” indicates “Plus”)

3. “Punsher: War Zone”,
Select [browse] > search for the title “Punsher” > select 2 Min Preview > select HDX > try it.
* This title is encoded in 5.1 Dolby Digital (5.1DD) - Your AVR should display “3/2/0.1 Dolby Dolby” (no “+” indicates legacy).

Btw, Vudu has two options, “2 Min Preview” and “Watch Trailer”:
• “2 Min Preview” should ask, SD, HD or HDX
• “Watch Trailer” is only in SD (stereo)



Too bad you didn’t get the V773 instead ; the second hdmi-out (to second TV input) would've been handy for your setup. maybe your next AVR will have multi hdmi-out smile.gif

Btw, did you try the V673 video Processing with Comcast/Moto box 480p channels if it does a better job when Moto box in “Native” mode?
(Setup >Video >Video mode > Processing > Resolution > 1080p)
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post #1545 of 1898 Old 03-10-2014, 02:24 PM
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I doubt “LG engineering mode” overrides Sony/Philips (S/PDIF) protocol, but possibly misread AC3 frame header … since Moto dcx box wasn’t plugged into the Yamaha (via hdmi) DD+ reading was via “Info”?? Anyway, it is boring going thru hundreds of channels…. But if someday you see DD+, plug the Moto box directly to the AVR & double check it. (Setup > Information > Audio signal) that should give a better DD+ reading.

if you got time, you could verify this another way. Your Roku is already plugged into the LG TV. (if no Netflix acc) no need for vudu acc, launch the Vudu app, select [browse] and stream "2 Min Preview" (not “Watch Trailer”) & try the following 3 titles:

1. “Pirates of the Caribbean”: On Strange Tides
Select [browse] > search for the title “The Hobbit” > select "2 Min Preview" > select HDX > try it.
* This title is encoded in 7.1 Dolby Digital Plus (7.1DD+) – the AVR should display > “4/3/0.1 Dolby Digital +” (where “+” indicates “Plus”)

2. The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey
Select [browse] > search for the title “The Hobbit” > select 2 Min Preview > select HDX > try it.
* This title is encoded in 5.1 Dolby Digital Plus (5.1DD+) – the AVR should display “3/2/0.1 Dolby Digital+” (where “+” indicates “Plus”)

3. “Punsher: War Zone”,
Select [browse] > search for the title “Punsher” > select 2 Min Preview > select HDX > try it.
* This title is encoded in 5.1 Dolby Digital (5.1DD) - Your AVR should display “3/2/0.1 Dolby Dolby” (no “+” indicates legacy).

Btw, Vudu has two options, “2 Min Preview” and “Watch Trailer”:
• “2 Min Preview” should ask, SD, HD or HDX
• “Watch Trailer” is only in SD (stereo)



Too bad you didn’t get the V773 instead ; the second hdmi-out (to second TV input) would've been handy for your setup. maybe your next AVR will have multi hdmi-out smile.gif

Btw, did you try the V673 video Processing with Comcast/Moto box 480p channels if it does a better job when Moto box in “Native” mode?
(Setup >Video >Video mode > Processing > Resolution > 1080p)

LOL...I wish I had read your post earlier in the day. I just dropped off the Yamaha at the UPS Store. I had it listed on Amazon and it sold for $265 after just a few days. The LG is now hooked up to the Sony HT-CT150 I was previously using with my computer, and that soundbar can only handle DD, DTS, and PCM 7.1.

Anyway, I never even considered an AVR with dual outputs when I purchased the RX-V673. I just happened to be at Best Buy over a year ago and saw that they had it in stock; when I figured out that the price they were giving me for trading in my iPhone would cover the cost of the AVR, I bought it. Never gave any thought to using the upconversion feature...just connected the speakers and the source components, and set the audio to DIRECT. And I always kept the display on DECODER so I would have some idea of what I was supposed to be listening to...I never had much use for the various soundfields.
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post #1546 of 1898 Old 03-15-2014, 01:36 PM
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Having some serious issues with keeping my two Roku 3 remotes working. Properly paired, with fresh batteries, they both just go comatose at random times.

Posts on the Roku forum indicate Roku knew about the issue back in March 2013, and there would be a solution "soon".

Many, many people with this problem, according to a Google search. Roku's 'solution' is to reset the device, then re-pair the remote. Right. So there you are, in the middle of watching a movie, you pause, then when you hit play, nothing happens. NOTHING.

The only solution is to reboot the unit? Not something sane people will do more than once. Infuriating. And it doesn't matter anyway - the solution is very temporary.

The Roku Android app works even if the remote has gone belly up. So it's apparently not the box itself that's the problem.

The box is hardwired to my router, so it's not a wireless issue.

At one point, Roku tech support in chat claimed the problem was because I had a dual band router. I do NOT have a dual band router.

Really, really disappointing so far. I so wanted to like the thing. But without a consistently usable remote, pretty frustrating.

It's not possible for me to read through all 1,500 posts in this thread, and I apologize if this has been covered.

Any help or pointers or suggestions welcome. It's driving me nuts.

In response to my own post, one of the two Roku remotes started working properly and has stayed that way.

The other, I discovered after some experimentation, is defective in that it never goes to sleep (turning its wifi radio off), and so goes through a pair of batteries every 24-48 hours whether being used or not. So that when I went to use it, it rarely worked.

Spent almost an hour on the phone with 'tech support' from some far off land this morning, and FINALLY convinced them the remote was bad and they needed to send me another. We'll see how that goes.
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post #1547 of 1898 Old 03-15-2014, 08:55 PM
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Can someone please explain why the Roku 3 would suddenly reboot in the middle of a Netflix TV show? Then when it boots back up, we relaunch NF and then it asks for the Netflix sign in info again? And after signing in and rebooting the machine it requires you to sign in yet again, and again, and again? Signing in every time you start the Netflix App is not quite what we were expecting from this device. Have we done something wrong?
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post #1548 of 1898 Old 03-15-2014, 11:15 PM
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Can someone please explain why the Roku 3 would suddenly reboot in the middle of a Netflix TV show? Then when it boots back up, we relaunch NF and then it asks for the Netflix sign in info again? And after signing in and rebooting the machine it requires you to sign in yet again, and again, and again? Signing in every time you start the Netflix App is not quite what we were expecting from this device. Have we done something wrong?

That is not normal behavior. I only had to sign into each subscribed service once. I have no idea what causes that - it does sound like it's not saving login info. Has it saved you home screen channel selections?
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post #1549 of 1898 Old 03-15-2014, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post

That is not normal behavior. I only had to sign into each subscribed service once. I have no idea what causes that - it does sound like it's not saving login info. Has it saved you home screen channel selections?
Yeah, the home screen channels have not changed, and its saving the Hulu+ account because I can launch Hulu and it goes to the normal screen to start watching shows. But Netflix is taking me to the introduction screen to start a trial every time we start the App. The Roku 3 also rebooted in the middle of a show, which is when it stopped saving the account info.

I am concerned now as its only been about 5 or 6 days since we got it, and nothing happened before tonight. He is already very upset at his last player (one that I recommended) that gave him a solid 3 months of nothing but trouble. I guess I need to stop giving my brother electronics advice because I can't seem to give him sound advice to save my life.

EDIT: I do not know if the Roku forums are any help but I posted this incident over there to see if this is known or not. I hope its just a Netflix problem and gets fixed soon. If its hardware, I will not be very happy. lol
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post #1550 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

Yeah, the home screen channels have not changed, and its saving the Hulu+ account because I can launch Hulu and it goes to the normal screen to start watching shows. But Netflix is taking me to the introduction screen to start a trial every time we start the App. The Roku 3 also rebooted in the middle of a show, which is when it stopped saving the account info.

I am concerned now as its only been about 5 or 6 days since we got it, and nothing happened before tonight. He is already very upset at his last player (one that I recommended) that gave him a solid 3 months of nothing but trouble. I guess I need to stop giving my brother electronics advice because I can't seem to give him sound advice to save my life.

EDIT: I do not know if the Roku forums are any help but I posted this incident over there to see if this is known or not. I hope its just a Netflix problem and gets fixed soon. If its hardware, I will not be very happy. lol
Try deleting the Netflix app and then add it back and see if that helps.
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post #1551 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by keenan View Post

Try deleting the Netflix app and then add it back and see if that helps.

And go to Netflix and delete the player from your account.
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post #1552 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 07:50 AM
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Ok, I already tried a bunch of things, including removing, rebooting and reinstalling Netflix. I have tried to go to Netflix to remove it from my account but I cannot find it. All it says is to remove all devices and I'm not doing that. That sounds like it would effect the entire family of six devices.

I have not tried a fresh start to factory reset the device or remove it from my Roku account and re-add it yet. This idea sounds like something that should not have to be done because I factory reset it when I got it a few days ago. If I have to do that every week or so that will be a deal breaker. We have 30 days to return it to the seller and I think 90 from Roku for warranty. Returning to the seller for a replacement unit sounds easier lol. But I will try all the remaining steps to troubleshoot first. Thanks again guys

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post #1553 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 08:05 AM
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For anyone that's interested, according to a chat session with Roku Support there's no way to rename how the device appears remotely from DIAL-compatible apps like Netflix on an iPad. They all show up as "Roku Streaming Player 1GJxxxxxxxx" (their serial number) and not the name selected on your account website page.

No way I'd ever remember which serial number corresponds to which room. Thus far everything else that supports DIAL has the ability to do this (Tivo, Chromecast, etc).

WTF Roku?

I guess then I'll just have to purchase several more Chromecast devices instead.
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post #1554 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

Ok, I already tried a bunch of things, including removing, rebooting and reinstalling Netflix. I have tried to go to Netflix to remove it from my account but I cannot find it. All it says is to remove all devices and I'm not doing that. That sounds like it would effect the entire family of six devices.

I have not tried a fresh start to factory reset the device or remove it from my Roku account and re-add it yet. This idea sounds like something that should not have to be done because I factory reset it when I got it a few days ago. If I have to do that every week or so that will be a deal breaker. We have 30 days to return it to the seller and I think 90 from Roku for warranty. Returning to the seller for a replacement unit sounds easier lol. But I will try all the remaining steps to troubleshoot first. Thanks again guys

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You can remove account settings for an individual device directly from the app itself, without needing to 'deactivate all devices' as the option offered online at the website. Launch Netflix...Go to the 'Menu' icon, and on the Menu screen, select sign out of your account.


This works for the new standard Netflix UI. For older apps, you use the old Konami code of UP-UP, DOWN-DOWN, LEFT-RIGHT, LEFT-RIGHT, UP-UP-UP-UP with the arrow buttons.

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post #1555 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Westly-C View Post


You can remove account settings for an individual device directly from the app itself, without needing to 'deactivate all devices' as the option offered online at the website. Launch Netflix...Go to the 'Menu' icon, and on the Menu screen, select sign out of your account.

Ok thanks Westly, I will give it a try when I get to the device again. He's a graveyard shift truck driver, so all day today he will be sleeping. I will give it a try tonight though and ask him if it happened again last night. Starting to really suck being the family Administrator. wink.gif
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post #1556 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

For anyone that's interested, according to a chat session with Roku Support there's no way to rename how the device appears remotely from DIAL-compatible apps like Netflix on an iPad. They all show up as "Roku Streaming Player 1GJxxxxxxxx" (their serial number) and not the name selected on your account website page.

No way I'd ever remember which serial number corresponds to which room. Thus far everything else that supports DIAL has the ability to do this (Tivo, Chromecast, etc).

WTF Roku?

I guess then I'll just have to purchase a couple of more Chromecast devices instead.

That's to bad, it works on Android Roku App just fine showing the names you created.

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post #1557 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

And after signing in and rebooting the machine it requires you to sign in yet again, and again, and again? Signing in every time you start the Netflix App is not quite what we were expecting from this device. Have we done something wrong?

I've seen this error too. I just back out to the main menu, and relaunch the Netflix app.

I'm guessing there's an authentication timeout at work here. But just because it times out, doesn't mean you have to manually sign in or 're-register your Roku.
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post #1558 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by calculon68 View Post

I've seen this error too. I just back out to the main menu, and relaunch the Netflix app.

I'm guessing there's an authentication timeout at work here. But just because it times out, doesn't mean you have to manually sign in or 're-register your Roku.
Its asking us to re-enter the user email and password every time we launch Netflix.
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post #1559 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

Its asking us to re-enter the user email and password every time we launch Netflix.

That is weird. I had to re-log in to Netflix (Roku) a couple of weeks back, which was a first, but it has been fine since then.
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post #1560 of 1898 Old 03-16-2014, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Apostate View Post

That is weird. I had to re-log in to Netflix (Roku) a couple of weeks back, which was a first, but it has been fine since then.
Its working OK so long we do not leave the app. If I reboot the device by pulling power, it asks us again for that info when we launch Netflix. Seems to only be happening with the Netflix app, which gives me some hope... lol
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