LG 55EA9800 55" OLED Owner's thread - Page 220 - AVS Forum
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post #6571 of 6736 Old 10-02-2014, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by John Clark View Post
Not a chance. There are only a few sets left on the closeout deal, nationwide, at Microcenter. Anyone who grabs one of these is getting the technology equivalent of the deal of the century!


John
That's why I bought 2! Incredible deal.
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post #6572 of 6736 Old 10-02-2014, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wrxlvr View Post
Why? We have a MicroCenter in Denver.
Right… I live in the SF Bay Area and drove to Denver to get a set cuz Orange County MicroCenter was showing out of stock.

My comment was referring to the fact that I drove an extra 1000 miles because they were OOS. I didn't know Vegas was going to return his to OC as I'm assuming that is what his comment meant and I could have gotten his.
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post #6573 of 6736 Old 10-03-2014, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by royboy365 View Post
Mr. Bob from Image Perfection spent some time at my place calibrating both my 9800 & 9300 and in the process we discovered a very interesting issue.

We were working with getting the proper Gray Scale and using his ISF Optical Comparator along with an Accupel HDG 3000 HD Pattern Generator. The pattern we were using had 11 bars from 0% to 100% inclusive.

On the 9800 whenever we adjusted a bar to the proper shade and exited the menu system, whatever change we made was showing on the next IRE percent up!

Easiest way to check this for yourself is adjust red, blue or green plus or minus 50 to make an easily observable change and then exit the menu. You will see the adjustment you made jump to the next highest level.

It did this on both the 9800 and the 9300. It also did it on the 9300 both on the previous software and the latest updated software.

Here's the full story. I just started a new thread on it.


Had a chance to work with 2 brand new LG OLEDs, and they both presented exactly the same anomaly: their settings didn't stay where they were put!

We used the TVS Pro Optical Comparator, with the ISF optical comparator riding shotgun, and my Accupel HDG 3000. Having no reason to suspect anything would be out of the ordinary I put up the 10 step split bars grayscale pattern from the Accupel and went to work on Expert 2, as Expert 1 had been set up on some settings from the net by the owner, Roy, and was looking not half bad already.

After several hours of aligning out the many non-linearities and tracking bumps of purple and green and other shades and getting that pattern to silky smooth grayscale tracking, it was time to come out of the working-on mode and see what real world material looked like. Before doing so, however, I knew there was one more thing that needed to be done. I could not see the registers in between the 10 IRE bars as I did not have a 20 step pattern, so once done with the 10IRE bars I knew the 45IRE, 55IRE, 65IRE bars etc. had not been touched. I knew their numbers would have to be extrapolated - set at the midpoint between each of the 10 step values that bordered them, above and below - so before I was through I set each of those accordingly. Where the 10 IRE bar for 40IRE was set for -10 and the 50IRE bar was set for -5, I knew the register for 45IRE would need to ideally be set for -7.5. So I set it for either -7 or -8, since no half steps were offered. It was not really going to matter which, -7 or -8, when we had all the way from +50 clicks up to -50 clicks down from zero point to choose from.

But to not do this extrapolation would leave a setting of 0 at all 5 point registers. 50IRE would be -5 while 45IRE would be factory default of zero, and 40IRE would be -10. 80IRE would be maybe +15IRE, 85IRE would be zero, 90IRE would be +10 (not real world numbers, of course, just examples). Not very linear, many mini bumps to it, all the way up and down the IRE scale, invisible on the bars pattern but fully plugged in on real world content. So I corrected all those plus and minus 5IRE half steps in between the 10IRE steps, such that the invisible 85IRE register would be +13 and the invisible 45IRE would be -7, etc. This completed the smoothing out and linearity-making of the grayscale tracking, which wound up about as good as it gets. "Silky smooth", as the Yohan would say...

This was after having to constantly find a way to restore the picture's light levels, since with a fixed image up there they had been designed to protect the screen by dimming, ever so imperceptibly minute by minute, to prevent screenburn. On the 9800 we only had to click on Mute. On the 9300 that was not enough, we had to actually leave the working-on menu and come back in, to restore the full light level.


I clicked on the pattern outside of the graphics and watched them all disappear, leaving just the pattern, as expected. Now just the split bars pattern from the Accupel remained, as if we were watching real world material. We were back to normal operation again.

But back on the pattern itself something just didn't look right. The corrections seemed to have not "taken" properly. There were a whole new set of bars that were halfway as off from each other as when I had started, but not in the same ways nor in the same directions. It was scratch our head time.

It took a while and more than a few tries, to finally nail it down. On full field window patterns I might not have gotten to the bottom of it at all. But 10 IRE step bars was perfect.

Whatever corrections I had made on one bar took fine while I was in the working-on mode. But the effect of the corrections shifted one bar - or +10IRE - to the right as soon as I left that mode and the set went back to normal. It was totally obvious with the 10 step bars pattern. All we had to do was crank one register up to the max of 50 clicks UP on one color only - we used blue - and come out again, and bingo! The register 10 IRE to the right had taken the hit. On 40IRE the bar affected was 50IRE. On 70IRE, the one that actually took the corrections was the 80IRE bar. Since I knew every step of the 10IRE steps given was going to be a little different from the next, this was a major find. As each bar required slightly different tweaking of each of the 3 colors involved, this was going to affect the grayscale's tracking linearity all over the place.

We couldn't believe what we were seeing! We tried it again and again and again, on every register in there. Every single 10 IRE register in there did the same thing. On coming out of working-on mode to normal, the bar to the right had taken the corrections instead of the bar actually corrected!


So fellow calibrators, be ready for this little present being left at your doorstep here by LG's software. We tried it on the 9300 first and then the 9800. Both did exactly the same thing. We did whatever updates were called for, no change. Whatever corrections you make in one 10IRE register will "take" on the register one 10IRE step higher.

Who knows what's going to happen on current calibrations if they fix this gliche in an upcoming firmware update!

b

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Last edited by Mr Bob; 10-03-2014 at 05:58 AM.
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post #6574 of 6736 Old 10-04-2014, 08:17 AM
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Hi all, bought one of these screens two days ago and am really very pleased. However, I'm a bit confused about the Real Cinema settings. In TV mode (ie broadcast TV) the setting is selectable but when I switch to my Oppo BD player on HDMI 1 it is greyed out so I can't turn it on. I've tried altering various other settings to see if that makes it selectable but it remains resolutely greyed out! Can anyone help me get it turned on please?
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post #6575 of 6736 Old 10-04-2014, 02:30 PM
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Real Cinema is for de-interlacing the 1080i or 480i signal into 1080p progressive format for display (you should have option to choose film which means 2:3 pull down or video which is an easy conversion). Your BD player already output 1080p. So there is no need to do such conversion.
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post #6576 of 6736 Old 10-04-2014, 07:02 PM
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Transformers imax 3d - crazy good on the 9800. I'm not a 3d expert, but enjoying it on this oled!
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post #6577 of 6736 Old 10-04-2014, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royboy365 View Post
Too bad I didn't know that before I drove to Denver from SF!

But on the other hand, I was able to fit 2 of these puppies in the car and just took one up to the Portland place. The price is insane on it for what you are getting. Figure I could always sell it next year when I'm ready to upgrade and recoup at least half.

Heck, the amount of money I'm saving on going to the movies alone, I break even. LOL
I think you qualify as the true video hero for going above and beyond. And especially for recognizing an incredible deal, the like of which I haven't seen in many, many years, and making such a momentous journey to secure the tv's ........

John
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post #6578 of 6736 Old 10-05-2014, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post
Real Cinema is for de-interlacing the 1080i or 480i signal into 1080p progressive format for display (you should have option to choose film which means 2:3 pull down or video which is an easy conversion). Your BD player already output 1080p. So there is no need to do such conversion.
I see, thanks
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post #6579 of 6736 Old 10-05-2014, 10:28 AM
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I almost didn't buy this set after reading 200+ pages on the 9800 and 80+ on the 9300. It seems that an awful lot of people found all sorts of problems with both units. I've always thought that I was too demanding of products but I now realize that I am no where near as demanding as some of the people posting here.

I spent a lot of time watching both TVs at Best Buy and could not see any significant difference between the two other the than the stands. I find the clear stand on the 9800 unattractive and prefer the stand on the 9300; however, the price differential between the 9300 at Best Buy and the 9800 at Micro Center made the clear stand a lot more attractive.

I was afraid that if I bought one of these sets I would bring it home and be disappointed since my Panasonic plasma is still producing a beautiful picture. Nothing to fear here. This is without doubt the most beautiful TV picture I have ever seen. I perhaps won the panel lottery since I cannot find any dead or stuck pixels (I haven't gone over the screen with a magnifying glass but I have looked carefully); I don't see the yellow, green or pink discolorations on the edges of the panel than some have reported.

A lot of people proclaim a dislike for the slight curvature of the screen. It doesn't bother me at all; in fact, when playing “This is Cinerama” the slight curve actually seemed to improve the cinerama effect; but this might just be in my mind. If you've never seen this restoration, you should find it; it's well worth viewing. The ultimate test for me was the Zefferelli “Turandot” from the Met. This is an exceptional disc on any display but it is almost indistinguishable from reality on this display.

John Clark says above that this display from MicroCenter is the deal of the century. I don't know that I would go that far since we've still got 86 years to go; but I am certain that this is two thousand of the best dollars I have spent in a very long time.
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post #6580 of 6736 Old 10-05-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sal9000 View Post
I almost didn't buy this set after reading 200+ pages on the 9800 and 80+ on the 9300. It seems that an awful lot of people found all sorts of problems with both units. I've always thought that I was too demanding of products but I now realize that I am no where near as demanding as some of the people posting here.

I spent a lot of time watching both TVs at Best Buy and could not see any significant difference between the two other the than the stands. I find the clear stand on the 9800 unattractive and prefer the stand on the 9300; however, the price differential between the 9300 at Best Buy and the 9800 at Micro Center made the clear stand a lot more attractive.

I was afraid that if I bought one of these sets I would bring it home and be disappointed since my Panasonic plasma is still producing a beautiful picture. Nothing to fear here. This is without doubt the most beautiful TV picture I have ever seen. I perhaps won the panel lottery since I cannot find any dead or stuck pixels (I haven't gone over the screen with a magnifying glass but I have looked carefully); I don't see the yellow, green or pink discolorations on the edges of the panel than some have reported.

A lot of people proclaim a dislike for the slight curvature of the screen. It doesn't bother me at all; in fact, when playing “This is Cinerama” the slight curve actually seemed to improve the cinerama effect; but this might just be in my mind. If you've never seen this restoration, you should find it; it's well worth viewing. The ultimate test for me was the Zefferelli “Turandot” from the Met. This is an exceptional disc on any display but it is almost indistinguishable from reality on this display.

John Clark says above that this display from MicroCenter is the deal of the century. I don't know that I would go that far since we've still got 86 years to go; but I am certain that this is two thousand of the best dollars I have spent in a very long time.
That may be because there is very little difference between the two.
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post #6581 of 6736 Old 10-05-2014, 12:34 PM
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That may be because there is very little difference between the two.
There's about 1000 differences between the two
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post #6582 of 6736 Old 10-05-2014, 02:36 PM
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There's about 1000 differences between the two
Name 999.
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post #6583 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 01:41 PM
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I also have that Cinerama title and I agree that the curve enhances the effect, especially on any films from 2.35:1 to 2.66:1 ratios. Check out Ben-Hur!
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post #6584 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by John Clark View Post
I think you qualify as the true video hero for going above and beyond. And especially for recognizing an incredible deal, the like of which I haven't seen in many, many years, and making such a momentous journey to secure the tv's ........

John
Hey, thanks for the atta-boy!!! ))
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post #6585 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 02:53 PM
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So if I wanted to calibrate with my i1Pro and Calman, what is the reccomended grayscale procedure?
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post #6586 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 03:02 PM
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I don't have this 3D title, so I can't say for sure if that scene ghosts on my 9800. The 9800 is prone to ghosting if you don't sit exactly perpendicular to the screen plane vertically. If you watch too high or too low, you're going to see ghosting, guaranteed. Sit in the sweet spot, though, and you're going to see some of the best 3D available anywhere. That's what happens when you add infinite contrast and perfect blacks to a 3D image.

After the latest firmware upgrade, ghosting was minimized in THX3D mode, but at the expense of contrast. That's a trade I won't make, even it it means there's a bit of ghosting from time to time. I use ISF Expert 1 mode for 3D and tweak it until I get all the pop I want and minimal ghosting.
Joe, have you had a chance to check out the 3D in the game modes by chance? I've noticed on my display now that in game mode I receive a lot less ghosting....of course, its game mode and I can't tweak it much either. Just a thought.
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post #6587 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 05:55 PM
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Joe, have you had a chance to check out the 3D in the game modes by chance? I've noticed on my display now that in game mode I receive a lot less ghosting....of course, its game mode and I can't tweak it much either. Just a thought.
Thanks. I'll check out game mode more thoroughly. I'm pretty happy using ISF Expert 1 for 3D with the settings I'm using now, although a good calibration should reduce the small amount of black crush I'm getting. I have to put a lot more hours on the set before I'm ready for calibration.

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post #6588 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 09:23 PM
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I don't have this 3D title, so I can't say for sure if that scene ghosts on my 9800. The 9800 is prone to ghosting if you don't sit exactly perpendicular to the screen plane vertically. If you watch too high or too low, you're going to see ghosting, guaranteed. Sit in the sweet spot, though, and you're going to see some of the best 3D available anywhere. That's what happens when you add infinite contrast and perfect blacks to a 3D image.

After the latest firmware upgrade, ghosting was minimized in THX3D mode, but at the expense of contrast. That's a trade I won't make, even it it means there's a bit of ghosting from time to time. I use ISF Expert 1 mode for 3D and tweak it until I get all the pop I want and minimal ghosting.
I just picked up my 9800 two weeks ago, yesterday. Is there a firmware update that I should be installing?


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post #6589 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 09:56 PM
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I just picked up my 9800 two weeks ago, yesterday. Is there a firmware update that I should be installing?


John
My 9800 found two software updates, first one and then another after a reboot. I just hooked up the Ethernet cable and let it do its thing.

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post #6590 of 6736 Old 10-06-2014, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mo949 View Post
Joe, have you had a chance to check out the 3D in the game modes by chance? I've noticed on my display now that in game mode I receive a lot less ghosting....of course, its game mode and I can't tweak it much either. Just a thought.
I checked this out tonight, and "Game" mode does indeed have very little ghosting. I still prefer ISF Expert 1, for one thing because it allows more customization of settings. When I criticized the 9800 harshly for its ghosting performance, much of what I was seeing was because of the awkward way the set was displayed in my local Micro Center. They had several cardboard boxes about 3 feet in front of the set, forcing me to watch 3D at a high angle. From there, I saw tons of ghosting. (The 9300, apparently, is less prone to this - perhaps a change in the film pattern retarder on the screen?) When viewed perpendicular to the screen plane vertically, the 9800's FPR does a great job of limiting ghosting. The new THX3D settings in the latest firmware update fixes some of the ghosting issue by lowering contrast, which robs the 3D of some of its zing. OTOH, I can get great looking 3D on the 9800 by making sure that I sit at the optimum angle, without compromising contrast. It's not DLP-ghost-free, but for me it's better 3D because of OLED's amazing contrast and black level. IMO, OLED's high-contrast 3D is greater than DLP's ghost-free but contrast-weak 3D. No 3D display is perfect, so you pick your poison. But with the 9800 that poison tastes mighty good.

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post #6591 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 09:29 AM
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That's good confirmation. I had found that out on 'house of wax 3d' which was ghosting badly on my vt50 on my ISF mode and I decided to go down the line to see if any other mode was better. Of course I then was forced to watch without 24p and without any real tweaks allowed. It got me thinking though that those types of people that calibrate through the service menu at times could probably come up with a really good 3D game mode. Probably not worth it. Makes you wonder what the 'culprit' is though. What is game mode enabling/disabling that improves it so?
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post #6592 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 12:08 PM
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That's good confirmation. I had found that out on 'house of wax 3d' which was ghosting badly on my vt50 on my ISF mode and I decided to go down the line to see if any other mode was better. Of course I then was forced to watch without 24p and without any real tweaks allowed. It got me thinking though that those types of people that calibrate through the service menu at times could probably come up with a really good 3D game mode. Probably not worth it. Makes you wonder what the 'culprit' is though. What is game mode enabling/disabling that improves it so?
I think the big thing is contrast, although there are probably color tweaks, too. Both Game mode and the new THX3D mode default to a contrast setting of 80. Whatever the settings, IMO the 3D image flattens out considerably and loses much of its pop. I also can't set TruMotion in Game mode, and the judder is very distracting. I use mild TruMotion settings for most content, including 3D. (Higher TruMotion User settings seem to result in more black crush - and other artifacts.) My contrast setting is 95 (OLED light at 40), and for all Blu-ray/3D content I use the 709 color space. My rooms are light controlled, so I don't have any issues with 3D brightness. I've been struggling with a series of colds, so it's taking longer to complete my new TV stand, but when it's finished I expect to be able to view all my 3D at the best possible vertical angle. Right now, when viewed this way only the toughest light ghosting scenes cause a problem for the 9800. Dark ghosting is not an issue at all.
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post #6593 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 04:21 PM
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55EA9700 Review

I had a few days "trial run" with the 55EA9700 - same as 9800, minus clear speakers, possibly other minor differences.

Here are my observations:

- Picture quality is basically perfect. THX mode is especially nice. Compared to any LCD it's like a veil of blue has been lifted from the picture. Compared to a plasma, the image looks very "solid" due to no flickering/phosphor trails.

-The only real flaw in picture I have observed is poor near black uniformity: the middle of the screen is significantly brighter than the edges at RGB values less than 8. This is with using the "high" black level setting, since "low" crushes out the issue.

- I have not noticed anyone else describe this, but just like a VA LCD panel, dark colours are slower to move than light ones.

- slight yellowing towards the left edge of the panel, as many report.

- picture yellows slightly with off angle viewing (observed with both the 55EA9700 and 55EA8800)

- aside from powering-on (which makes a click and CRT-like whine) the TV is silent. No high pitched whine or buzz during operation as some have observed (with the 55EC9300, at least). I'm pretty sensitive to high pitched noise (I can hear the backlight in my LCD when it dims). I was using a PC only, it's possible there's noise when using the on-board processing.

- one dead green subpixel fresh out of box, a new red one appeared on day 4

- Did observe temporary image retention after leaving Windows up for a couple of hours (start menu icon, quicklaunch icons. Only visible on a grey slide and faded within an hour.

- the only way to get 1:1 pixel mapping is to label the HDMI input to PC

- The only thing that reduces input lag significantly is to label the HDMI input to PC. It's still too high at ~55ms. This set is not good for gaming or PC mousing.

- Does not display POST. If you are a PC user you will need another display on hand to enter BIOS or view the startup diagnostics.

- was not able to get 120hz refresh rate with PC (EVGA GTX570 HD)

My specimen turned out to be defective. Third day, on power-on, a bright vertical line appeared just left of center (which varied with colour/brightness depending on displayed content). I wasn't too disappointed since I had already made up my mind to return it for the following reasons:

-high input lag, as described above

-poor near-black uniformity, as described above

-physical design... the curve is not so bad, but curve + glossy screen = disaster
It reflects like a mirror. The reflections are distorted and move in a distracting manner. Basically, in a lit room it's a dark purple circus mirror. Also, shiny chrome rim... why, just why -_-

-mandatory magic remote - no standard remote included.

-obnoxious and unavoidable "smart" content (picture settings and inputs only accessible through smart menu).

Looks like I'll be waiting for the next-gen flat model. Too bad, because I wanted to support LG's OLED effort at this point in time.
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post #6594 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 04:56 PM
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Really 1:1 pixel mapping needs PC mode?

That's strange.
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post #6595 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 05:00 PM
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You mean turning off overscan?
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post #6596 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yappadappadu View Post
You mean turning off overscan?

That's what I consider turning 1:1 pixel mapping means. I couldn't imagine that THX mode wouldn't similarly disable this or that you couldn't disable it in professional or cinema modes either. That's why I thought it was strange.
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post #6597 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 06:16 PM
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I thought Just Scan mode is 1:1 pixel mapping. No need for PC mode. Also, when I use Miracast, it automatically switch to 1:1 mapping as well. Gaming mode also reduces lag significantly. I never label anything to PC mode.
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post #6598 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post
I thought Just Scan mode is 1:1 pixel mapping. No need for PC mode. Also, when I use Miracast, it automatically switch to 1:1 mapping as well. Gaming mode also reduces lag significantly. I never label anything to PC mode.
I think by 1:1 pixel mapping, he was referring to all 3 color channels - not just luma. You need PC mode to get 4:4:4 support as tested by HDTVTest or you will see fuzzy colored text from a PC/Console. (http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/55ea9...1312083487.htm)
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post #6599 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosCloud View Post
I had a few days "trial run" with the 55EA9700 - same as 9800, minus clear speakers, possibly other minor differences.

Here are my observations:

-The only real flaw in picture I have observed is poor near black uniformity: the middle of the screen is significantly brighter than the edges at RGB values less than 8. This is with using the "high" black level setting, since "low" crushes out the issue.

- slight yellowing towards the left edge of the panel, as many report.

- picture yellows slightly with off angle viewing (observed with both the 55EA9700 and 55EA8800)


- Did observe temporary image retention after leaving Windows up for a couple of hours (start menu icon, quicklaunch icons. Only visible on a grey slide and faded within an hour.

-- The only thing that reduces input lag significantly is to label the HDMI input to PC. It's still too high at ~55ms. This set is not good for gaming or PC mousing
.
-physical design... the curve is not so bad, but curve + glossy screen = disaster
It reflects like a mirror. The reflections are distorted and move in a distracting manner. Basically, in a lit room it's a dark purple circus mirror. Also, shiny chrome rim... why, just why -_-

Looks like I'll be waiting for the next-gen flat model. Too bad, because I wanted to support LG's OLED effort at this point in time.

I came to the same conclusion after doing a similar trial.

I passed on this model even at $2K because of the issues you mentioned. If it was flat, I might have overlooked some of the problems at this price.

It's still a good set for people who can tolerate the curve and were planning to buy an 55" LCD. Even with the above problems, it's still a better option than the majority of LCD. Of course a crappy 55" LCD can be had for as low as $500.
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post #6600 of 6736 Old 10-07-2014, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosCloud View Post
I had a few days "trial run" with the 55EA9700 - same as 9800, minus clear speakers, possibly other minor differences.

Here are my observations:

- Picture quality is basically perfect. THX mode is especially nice. Compared to any LCD it's like a veil of blue has been lifted from the picture. Compared to a plasma, the image looks very "solid" due to no flickering/phosphor trails.

-The only real flaw in picture I have observed is poor near black uniformity: the middle of the screen is significantly brighter than the edges at RGB values less than 8. This is with using the "high" black level setting, since "low" crushes out the issue.

- I have not noticed anyone else describe this, but just like a VA LCD panel, dark colours are slower to move than light ones.

- slight yellowing towards the left edge of the panel, as many report.

- picture yellows slightly with off angle viewing (observed with both the 55EA9700 and 55EA8800)

- aside from powering-on (which makes a click and CRT-like whine) the TV is silent. No high pitched whine or buzz during operation as some have observed (with the 55EC9300, at least). I'm pretty sensitive to high pitched noise (I can hear the backlight in my LCD when it dims). I was using a PC only, it's possible there's noise when using the on-board processing.

- one dead green subpixel fresh out of box, a new red one appeared on day 4

- Did observe temporary image retention after leaving Windows up for a couple of hours (start menu icon, quicklaunch icons. Only visible on a grey slide and faded within an hour.

- the only way to get 1:1 pixel mapping is to label the HDMI input to PC

- The only thing that reduces input lag significantly is to label the HDMI input to PC. It's still too high at ~55ms. This set is not good for gaming or PC mousing.

- Does not display POST. If you are a PC user you will need another display on hand to enter BIOS or view the startup diagnostics.

- was not able to get 120hz refresh rate with PC (EVGA GTX570 HD)

My specimen turned out to be defective. Third day, on power-on, a bright vertical line appeared just left of center (which varied with colour/brightness depending on displayed content). I wasn't too disappointed since I had already made up my mind to return it for the following reasons:

-high input lag, as described above

-poor near-black uniformity, as described above

-physical design... the curve is not so bad, but curve + glossy screen = disaster
It reflects like a mirror. The reflections are distorted and move in a distracting manner. Basically, in a lit room it's a dark purple circus mirror. Also, shiny chrome rim... why, just why -_-

-mandatory magic remote - no standard remote included.

-obnoxious and unavoidable "smart" content (picture settings and inputs only accessible through smart menu).

Looks like I'll be waiting for the next-gen flat model. Too bad, because I wanted to support LG's OLED effort at this point in time.
It seems odd to me that you would have returned this set anyway when you describe the PQ as 'basically perfect'.
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