LG 55EC9300 55" OLED Owners Thread - Page 29 - AVS Forum
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post #841 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 12:04 PM
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Well I finally just got the refund for my 2nd 55EC9300. Best Buy was not happy and they were claiming I was nuts (They took it out in the store and popped in a blu-ray). I told them with the store lighting and not having advanced calibrated charts, this proves nothing. He had to set Gamma to 1.9 and brightness to 66 in order to see darker shades of black. I tried to explain to him, if I used those settings in a pitch black room, the picture would be terrible and far from accurate

I just went back to my 3 year old HX929, did a full no-headache grayscale and primary/secondary color calibration using the LCD profile instead of the OLED profile. Same exact method I used on both the OLEDs. Dialed in, charts look great, and display looks very accurate. Colors are right. Looks nothing like my calibrated OLED, both of them simply refused to do accurate color on defaults and my calibrated settings (especially in the yellows, i'm looking at you Simpsons). CIE chart claimed yellows were accurate at 75% and 100%, but side-by-side comparison while looking at a calibrated HX929 and a calibrated Samsung OLED proved it simply wasn't true.

I have a few thoughts:
- My i1 Display Pro may not be working well with LG OLEDs, but it is advertised to work. I can't get certain tones and colors to be remotely accurate even when bypassing the sensor and using two people's eyes instead.
- The HCFR OLED profile may not work well with the new LG, but again even trying to eyeball it, I could not get certain yellow shades remotely accurate.
- The colors all appear "whiter" than any display i've ever seen, it really shows during animation. There is no way to fix it from my ~20 hours of messing with the display. I believe it is caused by LG's White/RGB design. The Samsung OLED doesn't have this issue, and I know it uses just a RGB design.
- Lower end gray scale is simply bad on both of the LG sets I had, may be possible to fix with very advanced gamma calibration and hardware. You can't fix them without throwing the entire middle and upper gray scale out of wack, or at least I couldn't. This issue does not appear on the HX929 and Samsung OLED. I'd imagine some of the professional calibrators could manage. Losing 3-4% gray on OLED really hurts the entire point of OLED's infinite contrast ratio. You are paying a premium for only 55", you need to be able to see that shadow detail!

With that said, I'd imagine 99% people would buy this TV and enjoy it with default settings. At the same time, I don't see the 99% buying OLED over 65" 4K screens at the same price. I expected way more from a premium display, and LG clearly did not put the effort into making sure a TV designed for the 1% videophiles was close to reference out of the box.

I shall start saving money up for the 65EC9700. Hopefully it's a different story with it's much higher price tag.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas oled View Post
This is what you see in content, just excellent picture quality. This was before calibration and just a 1080i direct tv feed.
Honestly, I just see black crush that has the effect of making the picture seem vibrant. It's hard to tell with a camera, so maybe i'm wrong, but I see literally no details in her hair. If you want a picture that "pops" than this set is likely great, if you want one that is accurate.. let's see if the pros can manage to dial this set in.
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post #842 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 12:13 PM
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So this is something I can't quite wrap my head around. I can understand a gray scale issue across the entire screen and correcting for that with a proper calibration. What I can't understand (and I believe D-Nice said he could do it on the 9300) is correcting for a gray scale anomaly in a portion of a screen. How does one selectively adjust WB in a portion of a screen. Now I can understand trying to mask the anomaly by altering the entire WB, but I would assume that moves you away from a perfect WB and throws you into some non-conformity issues with Rec709.
Ken, D-Nice was referring to the gray-scale ramp pattern. This pattern shows discoloration somewhere along the black to white gradient on virtually all displays. He might be able to improve this using the 20-point controls. It will do nothing to discoloration localized to a specific screen position.

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I have never seen a totally white, totally free from any discoloration in any area of the screen, technology. I am very sensitive to these things and every screen I've ever seen has 'some' uniformity issues. I'd love to see a posted picture of your screen.

But again, either way, it I don't see it with actual content, it's fine with me.
I agree with you that it's practically impossible to find a display with 100% pure gray fields that show no discoloration. I've looked at this on every major tech: plasma, LCD, CRT, LCOS, and DLP. DLP would be the closest with only some brightness variation in the corners on the projector I tested.

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Originally Posted by Vegas oled View Post
I really think the negative of wrgb is the Uniformity at 10ire which LG Tried to disguise as some members who know how to calibrate a display found out. I was able to adjust this out by dumb luck and eye balling last night using the 20 point at the 5,10 and 15ire points. Samsung OLED has their own issue with off axis so nothing is perfect.

To be clear the uniformity at 10ire is only visible at night with dim lighting and a slide. Given the choice between LG's wrgb and the Samsung RGB with larger blue pixels, I would put my money on LG displays lasting longer.
So I assume your results are better than what I saw someone post for the ea9800 on another forum:
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post #843 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Well I finally just got the refund for my 2nd 55EC9300. Best Buy was not happy and they were claiming I was nuts (They took it out in the store and popped in a blu-ray). I told them with the store lighting and not having advanced calibrated charts, this proves nothing. He had to set Gamma to 1.9 and brightness to 66 in order to see darker shades of black. I tried to explain to him, if I used those settings in a pitch black room, the picture would be terrible and far from accurate

I just went back to my 3 year old HX929, did a full no-headache grayscale and primary/secondary color calibration using the LCD profile instead of the OLED profile. Same exact method I used on both the OLEDs. Dialed in, charts look great, and display looks very accurate. Colors are right. Looks nothing like my calibrated OLED, both of them simply refused to do accurate color on defaults and my calibrated settings (especially in the yellows, i'm looking at you Simpsons). CIE chart claimed yellows were accurate at 75% and 100%, but side-by-side comparison while looking at a calibrated HX929 and a calibrated Samsung OLED proved it simply wasn't true.

I have a few thoughts:
- My i1 Display Pro may not be working well with LG OLEDs, but it is advertised to work. I can't get certain tones and colors to be remotely accurate even when bypassing the sensor and using two people's eyes instead.
- The HCFR OLED profile may not work well with the new LG, but again even trying to eyeball it, I could not get certain yellow shades remotely accurate.
- The colors all appear "whiter" than any display i've ever seen, it really shows during animation. There is no way to fix it from my ~20 hours of messing with the display. I believe it is caused by LG's White/RGB design. The Samsung OLED doesn't have this issue, and I know it uses just a RGB design.
- Lower end gray scale is simply bad on both of the LG sets I had, may be possible to fix with very advanced gamma calibration and hardware. You can't fix them without throwing the entire middle and upper gray scale out of wack, or at least I couldn't. This issue does not appear on the HX929 and Samsung OLED. I'd imagine some of the professional calibrators could manage. Losing 3-4% gray on OLED really hurts the entire point of OLED's infinite contrast ratio. You are paying a premium for only 55", you need to be able to see that shadow detail!

With that said, I'd imagine 99% people would buy this TV and enjoy it with default settings. At the same time, I don't see the 99% buying OLED over 65" 4K screens at the same price. I expected way more from a premium display, and LG clearly did not put the effort into making sure a TV designed for the 1% videophiles was close to reference out of the box.

I shall start saving money up for the 65EC9700. Hopefully it's a different story with it's much higher price tag.



Honestly, I just see black crush that has the effect of making the picture seem vibrant. It's hard to tell with a camera, so maybe i'm wrong, but I see literally no details in her hair. If you want a picture that "pops" than this set is likely great, if you want one that is accurate.. let's see if the pros can manage to dial this set in.
I believe your issues are more related to calibration than anything else. The calibrated 9300 at the shootout didn't begin to have the issues you speak of. Most in the audience were extremely impressed with most aspects of the display, including color. The only caveat was cyan and even there they had to search for one scene in one clip that showed it. Yes, not perfect, but nowhere near what you're describing. I really don't think you can condemn the 9300 series based on your calibration techniques & equipment which may not be suitable for the task. Just MO.
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post #844 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizziwig View Post
Ken, D-Nice was referring to the gray-scale ramp pattern. This pattern shows discoloration somewhere along the black to white gradient on virtually all displays. He might be able to improve this using the 20-point controls. It will do nothing to discoloration localized to a specific screen position.
Thanks Wizz, that makes sense!


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Originally Posted by Wizziwig View Post
I agree with you that it's practically impossible to find a display with 100% pure gray fields that show no discoloration. I've looked at this on every major tech: plasma, LCD, CRT, LCOS, and DLP. DLP would be the closest with only some brightness variation in the corners on the projector I tested.
Yup, I've never seen one. Yet JWhip says he's got a house full of them. It gets back to your sensitivity to this issue. My wife would probably agree with JWhip, me, not so much.

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Originally Posted by Wizziwig View Post

So I assume your results are better than what I saw someone post for the ea9800 on another forum:
That's got a lot of things going on there. Not good. I'm not sure what's up with that one as nobody here posted anything like that.
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post #845 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post
I believe your issues are more related to calibration than anything else. The calibrated 9300 at the shootout didn't begin to have the issues you speak of. Most in the audience were extremely impressed with most aspects of the display, including color. The only caveat was cyan and even there they had to search for one scene in one clip that showed it. Yes, not perfect, but nowhere near what you're describing. I really don't think you can condemn the 9300 series based on your calibration techniques & equipment which may not be suitable for the task. Just MO.
My yellows were really off even on defaults with both LG sets, I tried all modes. I calibrated my friend's Samsung OLED using the same techniques and it looks breathtaking and totally destroys the 9300 sitting next to it. I was expecting more or less the same quality from this LG. It's not just the colors, overall black detail is way better on the Samsung and you can easily see the entire 1-4% gray scales without washing the picture out. I'm really doubting it's anything but the displays itself.

Maybe I somehow got 2 sets that are faulty, but I doubt it. You really aren't going to easily see the color issues until you watch animation, which is a large part of my viewing. This is likely not what they were showcasing during the presentation, and compared to LED/LCD/Plasma it is still a way better display so people should be impressed. Compared to Samsung OLED, not even close sadly. Not trying to get anyone to take their sets back and/or not buy one. Just stating my experience with the set, I really hope the 65" 4K has better color accuracy.

Bottom line for me:
Better than anything non-OLED? Overall yes, with some drawbacks. If ~$3500 is your max budget or you want OLED now, get it.
Better than Samsung's OLED? Not even close, I will save my $3500 and wait until something is closer to the quality of this display.

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post #846 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:06 PM
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Outside of Tyrindor has anyone actually tried calibrating their display yet? Not eyeballing, not using other posted settings from sites, guessing, I mean ran some patterns and measured with a meter? Only reason I ask is because if so and Tyrindor and whomever else is calibrating their display compare some notes we could at least see if it is something with the workflow that was being used or the displays he had, or the display itself as a whole.

This display could require a specific type of workflow. I only say that is because some displays you cannot use conventional means to dial it in. Their have been displays I calibrated where as crazy as it sounds had to do CMS first, grayscale and then CMS. So just a thought.

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post #847 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Some random Photos











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post #848 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:20 PM
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So I'm watching my Planet earth hd-dvd Heh. In my old but still working tosh player. Double Ha!

Sweeping pans and zooms. No motion issues I can notice. And I have everything shut off.

Maybe if there is a football game on later I'll watch that to see how it does in sports... I still remember the triple ball effect from the Sammy with some feature that I forget the name bc I shut it off almost immediately.

Pans across an almost all white snow scape doesn't show uniformity or banding.

Close ups of say some mushrooms and other critters well they just pop out of the screen.

Next up some animation.. Finding Nemo, how to train your dragon. After that tonight when it's darker, I'll pop in the 20th anniversary of schlinders list.

That old Sammy I mentioned before that I had. . Well I returned that sucker 3 times for flashlights and clouds to one that I settled on as good enough

Before that, I had a sharp aquos which after a year and 5-6 sets, mainly due to banding, sharp just said return it to bb and I'll get a full credit, which is how I settled on the Sammy.

As it is with only oh, 6 house on the panel I can't see me returning this. We'll see later if animation and black and white show any flaws.. But I'm hopeful.

every now and then I notice some black crush, but keep in mind all I did was copy the settings from that site. So my display isn't really what you would call calibrated for real.

I suppose I'll either go buy some stuff or just pay someone to do it after I get some more hours in it

Eta. Every now and then I do wonder... Am I seeing just 6-7 years increase in quality in general or is it the oled tech..?

Could I get a pic this good with say a a fald lcd.. But at half the price?

I'm guessing prolly not.. But it is playing on my mind. Maybe it's just a bit of buyers remorse kicking in lol
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post #849 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
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I believe your issues are more related to calibration than anything else.
As you said, ununiformity cannot be calibrated out of the panel. Tyrindor'S blackcrush is not in the 4:3-frame, it's only on the left and right end of the 16:9-frame.
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post #850 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:31 PM
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If anyone has a rec for a calibrator in Denver area.. Well lemme know..
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post #851 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Losing 3-4% gray on OLED really hurts the entire point of OLED's infinite contrast ratio. You are paying a premium for only 55", you need to be able to see that shadow detail!
Absolutely!

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If anyone has a rec for a calibrator in Denver area.. Well lemme know..
Blake Carrington is well known for his calibration magic.
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post #852 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Call me strange, but I do not buy a $3,500 display to watch the Simpsons






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post #853 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:37 PM
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My yellows were really off even on defaults with both LG sets, I tried all modes. I calibrated my friend's Samsung OLED using the same techniques and it looks breathtaking and totally destroys the 9300 sitting next to it. I was expecting more or less the same quality from this LG. It's not just the colors, overall black detail is way better on the Samsung and you can easily see the entire 1-4% gray scales without washing the picture out. I'm really doubting it's anything but the displays itself.

Maybe I somehow got 2 sets that are faulty, but I doubt it. You really aren't going to easily see the color issues until you watch animation, which is a large part of my viewing. This is likely not what they were showcasing during the presentation, and compared to LED/LCD/Plasma it is still a way better display so people should be impressed. Compared to Samsung OLED, not even close sadly. Not trying to get anyone to take their sets back and/or not buy one. Just stating my experience with the set, I really hope the 65" 4K has better color accuracy.

Bottom line for me:
Better than anything non-OLED? Overall yes, with some drawbacks. If ~$3500 is your max budget or you want OLED now, get it.
Better than Samsung's OLED? Not even close, I will save my $3500 and wait until something is closer to the quality of this display.
Once again, the professionally calibrated 9300 at the shootout did not show these issues. You specifically mention yellow, and D-Nice, the professional calibrator who performed the calibration, had no such issues with yellow. The one color mentioned was cyan.

That should tell you that a) your calibration skills are not at a professional level (why should they be, you don't do this for a living) and b) your equipment is not nearly at the level of professional calibrators who use extremely expensive equipment.

Getting the calibration looking correct on the Samsung says nothing about the same procedure working on the LG. The LG would not be the first display that was both more difficult to calibrate and required some esoteric procedure to do it correctly.

If you're not getting yours professionally calibrated, I'd recommend moving on and getting the Samsung OLED, you'll never be happy with the next 100 LGs. With that said, I wouldn't condemn an entire line based on your experience and attempts at calibration. The shootout proved that IMO.

Of course if you're picky, no current LCD will satisfy you either with their myriad of other PQ issues. Don't get me wrong, I'm not criticizing you, but merely telling you the way it appears to me.
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post #854 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:40 PM
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As you said, ununiformity cannot be calibrated out of the panel. Tyrindor'S blackcrush is not in the 4:3-frame, it's only on the left and right end of the 16:9-frame.
I'm referring to his color issues, which appear to bother him more than anything.
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post #855 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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If anyone has a rec for a calibrator in Denver area.. Well lemme know..
Amen too that. Too many DIY calibrators if you ask me. This is a profession and the ISF classes are there for a reason. Just because I can purchase the parts to work on my car at Pep Boys, it does not make me an auto mechanic.
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post #856 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:44 PM
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While I have seen red and blue creep into the greyscale on a plasma, I have never seen yellowing. I have three plasmas currently in use here, 2 Pannys and one Pioneer. I have had the 2 Pannys for over 10 years each and have not even the hint of yellow. Maybe others have it but I have not seen it here. I would not be a happy camper with it on an OLED.
Plasma have good uniformity meaning that the light output from all areas of the screen are consistent. If you measure 35ftL in one location you are pretty sure that another location will measure the same. However if you measure RGB, plasmas might measure differently from inch to inch. That was true with my Pioneer 5080HD. The answer that was given to me in the past was that just calibrate the middle of the screen since is where you will be looking at most of the time.

Yellowing, I think there are two things going on. 1) The discoloration of the glass or plastic on the TV due to aging or heat. If you look at old TVs or monitors and display a white or gray pattern, you will see this yellowing. I think if it like my teeth yellowing between cleanings. It is slow process that you just dont notice. 2) if we are seeing it on new sets like I saw on my Panasonic 65ST60, it is result of the manufacturing. Probably contamination to the glass or plastic during the production process or perhaps they applied heat to bend the material. There is normally a glass or plastic protective sheet over the pixel structure.
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post #857 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Ken Ross, you have become the most common sense person on this thread.
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Absolutely!

Blake Carrington is well known for his calibration magic.
So I put in:

Blake Carrington isf Denver, into Google and I got rubbish.

You got a link?
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post #859 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Honestly, I just see black crush that has the effect of making the picture seem vibrant. It's hard to tell with a camera, so maybe i'm wrong, but I see literally no details in her hair. If you want a picture that "pops" than this set is likely great, if you want one that is accurate.. let's see if the pros can manage to dial this set in.
This photo stated prior to calibration. I do recommend you take a ISF course in calibrations. And yes this ignorant post has now put you on my ignore list.
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post #860 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:02 PM
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Amen too that. Too many DIY calibrators if you ask me. This is a profession and the ISF classes are there for a reason. Just because I can purchase the parts to work on my car at Pep Boys, it does not make me an auto mechanic.
This actually really surprises me. I would think that you of all people would at least know how to calibrate considering how many displays you go through lol. I mean learned on my own several years ago and have done multiple brands for myself, family, friends and even the displays in conference rooms at work.

It almost seems like a somewhat natural path to take as an enthusiast, you learn on your own and then when ready you get certified. Not jump straight to certification.

Reason I am going that route is because I think I upgrade A LOT, I get a new display every year and I'm not paying 300+ for something I can do myself. So I figured you knew how because you get a display keep it for what seems like a limited time, then return it and I doubt you are paying for a calibration each time so I just assumed you knew how.
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post #861 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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This is a new display and technology and should be calibrated by an expert and not a part time guy who purchased some equipment. The ISF course is expensive, why do you think this is? If it was so easy to spend a few hundreds dollars and become a great calibrator why would people spend thousand on schooling?

I have my 9300 to my liking but would pay a experienced calibrator to do it just to see how much better it can get.

if someone mainly watches cartoons, cartoons look amazing on about any mid-level LCD on up.

Last edited by Vegas oled; 08-30-2014 at 02:15 PM.
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post #862 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:11 PM
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So this is something I can't quite wrap my head around. I can understand a gray scale issue across the entire screen and correcting for that with a proper calibration. What I can't understand (and I believe D-Nice said he could do it on the 9300) is correcting for a gray scale anomaly in a portion of a screen. How does one selectively adjust WB in a portion of a screen. Now I can understand trying to mask the anomaly by altering the entire WB, but I would assume that moves you away from a perfect WB and throws you into some non-conformity issues with Rec709.
Traditionally we pick a spot and adjust WB for that one location. This would be the middle of the screen where our attention will be focus most of the time. But you can take a reading for multiple locations and adjust RGB for overall lowest error. Instead of 1% error in the middle, you can shoot for below 3% for most of the screen.

For the 9300, he said that he talked to the LG engineers and figure out this special technique to make the grayscale more consistent. If Dnice and LG can fix it with the 20 point adjustment, it would be nice if LG fix it for the rest of us. Hopefully, they addressed this issue with a firmware upgrade.
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post #863 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:12 PM
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Amen too that. Too many DIY calibrators if you ask me. This is a profession and the ISF classes are there for a reason. Just because I can purchase the parts to work on my car at Pep Boys, it does not make me an auto mechanic.
Well I usually don't buy parts from pep boys but I can wrench my car for std maintenence items. Saves a lot of money.

I have zero experience in calibrating a TV though.

Looks like if I buy the calmant5 control with a c3 meter I'm at 399.

Plus Time, that's with a capital T, to learn it and use it.

Seems like I can take the lazy way out and hire a pro and not have to spend hours fiddling around for the same or close of the price.

Now if I bought a new panel every year like some of you folks, it may make sense to learn it.

As for my specific use case.. Well prolly not!
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So I put in:

Blake Carrington isf Denver, into Google and I got rubbish.

You got a link?
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post #865 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:22 PM
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The ISF course is expensive, why do you think this is?
Cause they want to make money? Ever thought of that?
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post #866 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:31 PM
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Plasma have good uniformity meaning that the light output from all areas of the screen are consistent. If you measure 35ftL in one location you are pretty sure that another location will measure the same. However if you measure RGB, plasmas might measure differently from inch to inch. That was true with my Pioneer 5080HD. The answer that was given to me in the past was that just calibrate the middle of the screen since is where you will be looking at most of the time.

Yellowing, I think there are two things going on. 1) The discoloration of the glass or plastic on the TV due to aging or heat. If you look at old TVs or monitors and display a white or gray pattern, you will see this yellowing. I think if it like my teeth yellowing between cleanings. It is slow process that you just dont notice. 2) if we are seeing it on new sets like I saw on my Panasonic 65ST60, it is result of the manufacturing. Probably contamination to the glass or plastic during the production process or perhaps they applied heat to bend the material. There is normally a glass or plastic protective sheet over the pixel structure.

I'm sorry to be so blunt, but this is nonsense (and so I think it is better to nip it in the bud before it develops into an internet meme with a life of its own).

The yellow-push has absolutely nothing do with 'aging' (and nothing to do with your ivory-colored teeth :-)

Since it appears to occur on both sides of the screen and not the central portion, it is much more likely caused in some way by the curve (as is also the likely explanation for the near-black greyscale non-uniformity to either side of the center that several owners have reported).

I'm still waiting to hear from EA8800 (flat LG OLED) owner's if they see any evidence of either of these common defects of the curved EC9300.

Neither effect seems to be noticeably visible on actual content (other than the yellowing on B&W content) and it appears that careful calibration can minimize the effect, possibly to the point of elimination.

But these affects are likely further reasons to hold out for LG to finally offer a wider range of flat OLEDs.

My suspicions are not yet proven, but assuming they eventually are, I find it very disappointing that LG would ascribe higher priority to riding Samsung's marketing push of 'the curve' than providing the best OLED picture quality they are capable of with their current WOLED technology.
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post #867 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:37 PM
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This is a new display and technology and should be calibrated by an expert and not a part time guy who purchased some equipment. The ISF course is expensive, why do you think this is? If it was so easy to spend a few hundreds dollars and become a great calibrator why would people spend thousand on schooling?

I have my 9300 to my liking but would pay a experienced calibrator to do it just to see how much better it can get.

if someone mainly watches cartoons, cartoons look amazing on about any mid-level LCD on up.
So do you think someone just goes into a 2day ISF course and comes out knowing everything. Where do you think the ISF calibrators started? Most started DIY.

It's expensive because it give you a certification saying yes you know how the principles of display calibration, general display calibration techniques, and specifications to the standards. Do you not think you can learn that outside of an ISF course? I would bet money that anyone attending an ISF course started DIY.

Even if someone went straight to an ISF course without any knowledge of calibration they are still missing one huge part experience. At least DIY you have some going in and ISF will just refine it.

Ultimately I was just saying I was surprised meant no offense. To each their own

I cannot wait until I get a chance to mess with one personally. I like calibration and its fun to see how low I can get that dE
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post #868 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I usually don't buy parts from pep boys but I can wrench my car for std maintenence items. Saves a lot of money.

I have zero experience in calibrating a TV though.

Looks like if I buy the calmant5 control with a c3 meter I'm at 399.

Plus Time, that's with a capital T, to learn it and use it.

Seems like I can take the lazy way out and hire a pro and not have to spend hours fiddling around for the same or close of the price.

Now if I bought a new panel every year like some of you folks, it may make sense to learn it.

As for my specific use case.. Well prolly not!
I would never pay someone who was not ISF certified to work on my display. I have performed major auto repairs in my garage but I know my limits. You might be great, but to me the ISF certification means a lot. Interested in your results thou and good luck.

Not the lazy way out, sometimes just smart to hire a specialist. You surely cannot hurt anything by trying.

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post #869 of 1778 Old 08-30-2014, 02:48 PM
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I'm sorry to be so blunt, but this is nonsense (and so I think it is better to nip it in the bud before it develops into an internet meme with a life of its own).

The yellow-push has absolutely nothing do with 'aging' (and nothing to do with your ivory-colored teeth :-)

Since it appears to occur on both sides of the screen and not the central portion, it is much more likely caused in some way by the curve (as is also the likely explanation for the near-black greyscale non-uniformity to either side of the center that several owners have reported).

I'm still waiting to hear from EA8800 (flat LG OLED) owner's if they see any evidence of either of these common defects of the curved EC9300.

Neither effect seems to be noticeably visible on actual content (other than the yellowing on B&W content) and it appears that careful calibration can minimize the effect, possibly to the point of elimination.

But these affects are likely further reasons to hold out for LG to finally offer a wider range of flat OLEDs.

My suspicions are not yet proven, but assuming they eventually are, I find it very disappointing that LG would ascribe higher priority to riding Samsung's marketing push of 'the curve' than providing the best OLED picture quality they are capable of with their current WOLED technology.
I agree with you that the yellowing seen on the 9300 is probably cause by the their manufacturing process. I should have left out the "other" heat/age yellowing to avoid confusion.
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I agree with you that the yellowing seen on the 9300 is probably cause by the their manufacturing process. I should have left out the "other" heat/age yellowing to avoid confusion.

I did not mean any offense - it's just a big enough challenge for LG right now to address true concerns with their new OLEDs, just wanted to avoid the creation of another (false) concern :-)

In terms of 'manufacturing process' I hope this turns out to be caused by the curving process and not the underlying WOLED sheet manufacturing process.

We are trying to get a few owners of the 55EA8800 (flat) OLED to check for similar yellow-push to either side of center on their TVs. My prediction is that they will have no signs of this (which would then more or less confirm that it is curve-related).
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