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2016 LG OLED 65G6P and 65E6P Owners Thread

2M views 24K replies 1K participants last post by  cxqoled2032 
#1 ·
Folks...
Here it is - my OLED65G6P - Took a few hours to bring it in and semi mount it (Hope LG had better instructions)...
I owned a EF9500 for some time and the sound of thisTV is definitely better...
Posting some pictures here.... and sorry I cannot answer many questions and will do my best as I will not be playing with it until the weekend.

 
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#16,483 ·
howdy! I'm a new E6 owner and I had a question I'm hoping a forum member could shed a light on for me...

What in the hell does the 'black level low/high' setting do?!? :mad:

My understanding was that this setting was for changing the RGB range from 15-235 (video) to 0-255 for full output a la a computer monitor. I know the 'full' is possible on gaming systems, but video should never fall outside the 15-235 range.

However, having played with this setting during HDR10 playback, its clearly doing something very different....Loading up an HDR10 disc, when I toggle the setting I'm seeing a huge increase in blacks - so much so that the letterboxing looks grey. From what I understand about colorspace, if this 'black level low/high' setting does what it's supposed to do, it shouldn't have an effect on HDR10 at all.

Do we know what this setting does? the documentation on LG's site is no help at all. I'm just starting to try to calibrate my set, and the HDR portion is proving to be really challenging :/

thanks!
 
#16,484 ·
howdy! I'm a new E6 owner and I had a question I'm hoping a forum member could shed a light on for me...

What in the hell does the 'black level low/high' setting do?!? :mad:

My understanding was that this setting was for changing the RGB range from 15-235 (video) to 0-255 for full output a la a computer monitor. I know the 'full' is possible on gaming systems, but video should never fall outside the 15-235 range.

However, having played with this setting during HDR10 playback, its clearly doing something very different....Loading up an HDR10 disc, when I toggle the setting I'm seeing a huge increase in blacks - so much so that the letterboxing looks grey. From what I understand about colorspace, if this 'black level low/high' setting does what it's supposed to do, it shouldn't have an effect on HDR10 at all.

Do we know what this setting does? the documentation on LG's site is no help at all. I'm just starting to try to calibrate my set, and the HDR portion is proving to be really challenging :/

thanks!
Basically for all media devices like bluray you have it to low since everything is 16-235 but for pc if your output is full rgb you set it to high.

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#16,485 ·
howdy! I'm a new E6 owner and I had a question I'm hoping a forum member could shed a light on for me...

What in the hell does the 'black level low/high' setting do?!? :mad:

My understanding was that this setting was for changing the RGB range from 15-235 (video) to 0-255 for full output a la a computer monitor. I know the 'full' is possible on gaming systems, but video should never fall outside the 15-235 range.

However, having played with this setting during HDR10 playback, its clearly doing something very different....Loading up an HDR10 disc, when I toggle the setting I'm seeing a huge increase in blacks - so much so that the letterboxing looks grey. From what I understand about colorspace, if this 'black level low/high' setting does what it's supposed to do, it shouldn't have an effect on HDR10 at all.

Do we know what this setting does? the documentation on LG's site is no help at all. I'm just starting to try to calibrate my set, and the HDR portion is proving to be really challenging :/

thanks!
The HDMI handshake can not determine automatically whether a device sending RGB video to it is using the 0-255 range or the 16-235 range. It is a MANUAL choice that must be made at both ends of the HDMI cable, and you get level problems if there is a mismatch.

For Home Theater content you should be using the 16-235 range as that's how the content is authored. Some PCs and some game devices play content authored to use 0-255, and put that out by default. And so it is best to have the display set to match how the content is authored.

This setting SHOULDN'T have any effect when the input video format is YCbCr instead of RGB. YCbCr always uses the 16-235 range. However it is pretty common for device makers to cut corners and allow the setting to control YCbCr as well as RGB.

If the setting in the TV does not match the video range that's coming in then the most noticeable problem will be that blacks are way off -- either a loss of a lot of near Black detail (black crush) or Black and below Black pixels becoming gray and visible, i.e., depending on which way you have the error. Whites and colors are also screwed up if there is a mismatch but that's tougher to see.

------------------------------

The setting should be left on Low -- the 16-235 range -- unless you are playing content that you know was authored using the 0-255 range, and the source device is sending RGB and set to use that range. For all NORMAL Home Theater content -- including ALL movies and TV shows -- the source device should be set to send the 16-235 range for RGB, or, more normally, to send YCbCr, and the setting in the LG should be left on Low.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have a mismatch in this setting, the first inclination is to "fix" blacks by changing the Brightness slider in the TV. This is a mistake. For several reasons, but the easiest way to understand it is that you aren't fixing the problems in the whites or colors when you do that.
--Bob
 
#16,486 · (Edited)
I too watched my first ever UHD disc last night on the G6 and Oppo without a hiccup (or a handshake failure) in the form of Xmen Apocalypse. It seems the newer firmware revisions have really helped these devices to purr synergistically in comparison to using the Oppo BDP-103. The movie itself looked pretty fantastic (OLED and contrast at 90, brightness at 50), especially the vibrant colors and illuminated fire effects. The most pronounced vertical band was scarcely visible (the higher quality the source, the more invisible it becomes) and only because I knew where to look and had to practically squint to see it on the rarest, most fleeting occasions (amounting to seconds of on-screen time). I didn't notice any overt skipped frames with the Oppo, and the audio also played flawlessly. The wow factor was not quite as significant as it was with the more stellar 3D titles (Xmen A. also looks like it will massively benefit from 3D and thus I may be forced into a double dip :mad:), so with the zero black capability on these sets, I think this current level of brightness will satisfy for many years to come plus I have the aforementioned side benefit of 3D content. Win-win.
 
#16,488 ·
Update on my E6 picture issue: Sorry guys its been awhile since my last post. I scheduled a repair through Magnolia/GeekSquad for the vertical line issue in my 65E6. After almost no troubleshooting, they ordered me a new panel and scheduled the repair for two weeks later. The new panel was installed last week. Picture looks great, but now my TV is power cycling itself intermittently! I'm going to call the number back and see what they say. At this point, my wife is convinced we have a lemon.... Seriously though, $6k for this set and this....completely unacceptable.
 
#16,489 ·
The HDMI handshake can not determine automatically whether a device sending RGB video to it is using the 0-255 range or the 16-235 range. It is a MANUAL choice that must be made at both ends of the HDMI cable, and you get level problems if there is a mismatch.
--Bob
This is exactly the information I needed. After reading this review I thought perhaps I didn't understand the setting at all:

http://hdgear.highdefdigest.com/41676/lg_e6_oled_tv.html


Moreover, I've been combing the 'get me more detail in blacks' thread and this momentarily felt like perhaps it was the Magic Bullet setting I'd been hoping for.
 
#16,490 ·
Hi I think the jpg for 3D test are supported, but with so high R/L contrast too small errors in aligment of pol filters are visible. With normal content there usualy arent so high contrasts ant it is working...My OLED 65E6V has too area with some ghosting in left bottom corner, but with movies there isnot any problem. For me MPO or JPG side to side files are working well.
When in test jpg is any problem it means that ist is the polfilter disaligment.

Like you, I own both the B6 (Black Friday purchase, 55") and just this past week, the 65" E6. My family has been watching 3D movies today to get an idea of how wel it works and whether I can see any uniformity or other issues. I used the JPEG and so far I can see some issues with the lower left hand corner. But I don't think it's enough to return the set. I'm watching Guardians of the Galaxy right now with the family and it looks awesome. Even better, despite the fact that the TV only comes with two pairs of glasses, the Vizio 42" 3D set we bought a few years back has passive glasses that work just fine with this set too, giving us glasses for all four of us.

Other notes:
The 65E6P is faster than the B6. The chipset matters.

Trumotion seems to work the same way as the B6.

The E6 doesn't seem to like exFAT formatted USB devices. I think the B6 does. Weird.

Using a Monoprice active HDMI cable between my E6 and my Marantz AV7703 pre/pro is a bad idea (and I used two different ones). it barely works and doesn't seem to work with ARC. I managed to find a regular one in the meantime. Active HDMI cables seem to be ok between the Marantz and sources.

The fact that the TV doesn't seem to deal with 3D files natively blows. But it's not a deal killer. Maybe a firmware update eventually.

I need to figure out which mount I'm going to use to hang this on the wall. Right now I'm using the stand. But mounts are another thread.
 
#16,491 ·
The wow factor was not quite as significant as it was with the more stellar 3D titles (Xmen A. also looks like it will massively benefit from 3D and thus I may be forced into a double dip :mad:), so with the zero black capability on these sets, I think this current level of brightness will satisfy for many years to come plus I have the aforementioned side benefit of 3D content. Win-win.
I think it will be sometime before we have technology that will rival OLED or be better. I think it will be a long time from now.........
 
#16,492 ·
Hi to all.Would like to ask a fever from your guys ho experienced with the service menu.Service menu #3 has a section (TV Tuner)would like to know what is the number what you have there.Maybe i could adjust the sensitivity with my tuner.Thank you for your time and help.Just the number so i could compere with my set.Thank you
 
#16,493 ·
Hi to all.Would like to ask a fever from your guys ho experienced with the service menu.Service menu #3 has a section (TV Tuner)would like to know what is the number what you have there.Maybe i could adjust the sensitivity with my tuner.Thank you for your time and help.Just the number so i could compere with my set.Thank you
Are you sure it's in 3? In 4 I see tuner LNA which is set to auto.
 
#16,495 ·
Are you sure it's in 3? In 4 I see tuner LNA which is set to auto.
Some generic questions about Service Menu mode:

I've set up an LG 47LE5300-UC TV (as posted by someone here - thanks!) on my Harmony 700, and the remote for that TV has access to the LG service menus.

I have available "EZ-ADJ", "In-Start", and "Q-Menu" as options. I also have a "Return" button available.

The only button I've removed from access in the remote is "In-Stop", which I read here resets the OLED to factory defaults. I have no idea if that is correct information.

How do you exit service mode without saving changes?

How do you exit service mode with saving changes?
 
#16,498 · (Edited)
Some generic questions about Service Menu mode:

I've set up an LG 47LE5300-UC TV (as posted by someone here - thanks!) on my Harmony 700, and the remote for that TV has access to the LG service menus.

I have available "EZ-ADJ", "In-Start", and "Q-Menu" as options. I also have a "Return" button available.

The only button I've removed from access in the remote is "In-Stop", which I read here resets the OLED to factory defaults. I have no idea if that is correct information.

How do you exit service mode without saving changes?

How do you exit service mode with saving changes?

On the Service Remote, there is an exit button. if you make changes and then hit exit it will save the changes. If you don't make any adjustments and hit the exit button, then there will be no changes made. So it's best to always take a picture of the screen before making any adjustments, because once you make the change and hit exit, it will stick, until you change it back. As far as the In Stop button, it does a factory reset to default. So if you made changes, and screwed up, that is your nuclear option, it will reset tv to as if it was brand new, including timers for compensation, hours on tv, etc. The FW will remain current though.
 
#16,500 ·
On the Service Remote, there is an exit button. if you make changes and then hit exit it will save the changes. If you don't make any adjustments and hit the exit button, then there will be no changes made. So it's best to always take a picture of the screen before making any adjustments, because once you make the change and hit exit, it will stick, until you change it back. As far as the In Stop button, it does a factory reset to default. So if you made changes, and screwed up, that is your nuclear option, it will reset tv to as if it was brand new, including timers for compensation, hours on tv, etc. The FW will remain current though.
I am not really sure that reset the service menu changes.

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