2016 LG C6-B6 owners thread - Page 642 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19231 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by astateofmind View Post
Was watching Luther on netflix last few nights. And although is not HDR and not even 4k the quality of the image was amazing. Better than anything i'm playing on my pc.

So i wonder if i shold stop using VLC and try a better player, even for 1080 content. Any recommandations?
Run a DLNA server on your PC, then you can get the TV to play the files directly from your PC without the need to copy them to a USB stick or try to convince your PC to output better video. On my linux box, I use minidlna and have never configured it to transcode anything, so if the LG can play it, it looks great with the TV doing all the work.
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post #19232 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tomhorsley View Post
Run a DLNA server on your PC, then you can get the TV to play the files directly from your PC without the need to copy them to a USB stick or try to convince your PC to output better video. On my linux box, I use minidlna and have never configured it to transcode anything, so if the LG can play it, it looks great with the TV doing all the work.

No minidlna for windows. Trying plex but i have no idea how to force it to not do the transcoding.

How can i be sure that no transcoding was done?

Last edited by astateofmind; 06-18-2017 at 04:35 PM.
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post #19233 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 04:44 PM
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No minidlna for windows. Trying plex but i have no idea how to force it to not do the transcoding.

How can i be sure that no transcoding was done?
Configuration is always totally obscure and different for every server (unfortunately). Here's oppo's recommendation for a simple server to stream to their UHD player: http://www.oppodigital.com/Knowledge...ProdID=UDP-203

Usually it isn't hard to notice if the server tries to transcode. Look in task manager while it is running and see if there is a task beating the cpu to death :-).
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post #19234 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by thadoggfather View Post
how do you guys think PQ would compare my UB 9600 65" to this 55" C6 I have yet to open?

assuming one has the right distance for both,

also, obligatory box pic

Open that bad boy up, you will not regret it.
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post #19235 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by astateofmind View Post
No minidlna for windows. Trying plex but i have no idea how to force it to not do the transcoding.

Is there anyway to display what source is on the TV? (resolution, etc)
I don't use the official plex it does downgrade the quality, Don't know why.

Anyway. set up a standard plex server and it will automatically create a Dlna service with the same content. Then play it with the built in Media share app. That is what I do.
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post #19236 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 05:14 PM
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Not a great movie but chips looks amazing in Dolby Vision on Vudu.
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post #19237 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by thadoggfather View Post
how do you guys think PQ would compare my UB 9600 65" to this 55" C6 I have yet to open?

assuming one has the right distance for both,
Hmmm... other than experiencing possible disappointment of going from a 65" down to a 55" the PQ should pretty much the same. Granted, as you alluded to, you can always change your seating position (i.e., sit closer) to the 55" to get the same effect.

I'm spoiled now... its doubtful I could ever go back to a 55" regardless of savings.
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post #19238 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Elton Noway View Post
Hmmm... other than experiencing possible disappointment of going from a 65" down to a 55" the PQ should pretty much the same. Granted, as you alluded to, you can always change your seating position (i.e., sit closer) to the 55" to get the same effect.

I'm spoiled now... its doubtful I could ever go back to a 55" regardless of savings.
im not replacing my 65" 9600 with a 55" c6 just to clarify

this 55" c6 would be a 9300 replacement which Is certainly an upgrade

but just purely curious how a 65" 9600 would stack up PQ against 55" c6

Essentially 4K stretched bigger size and lesser screen tech potentially visually being previous gen vs smaller 4K pic and potentially visual gains from a newer model


LG 65EG9600-UB 602
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post #19239 of 19652 Old 06-18-2017, 10:14 PM
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PQ not so much imo. Oled is the main event here
I come from a 910 to a 65" B6 and PQ wise they are very similar.
The thing with the 2016 series are the improvements in near black uniformity and there I look at banding and shadow detail.

You'll still get 4K and hdr with the 9600 not DV but hey, where are the movies right? and they still support hdr10 anyway.
I don't know how HDR performance alone differs 2015-2016 though.

I would look at the price, 65" is big step up and I did pull the old 55" closer to me while watching a movie but I do the same with the 65" so is even more immersive. Lol

Also. If you do find a good to pass deal on a 9600, check that it supports HDR through HDMI.
The first batch of those didn't and had only HDR through streaming. Later there was an updated revision that had It on the HDMI ports too. You'll can check in the 9600 thread.







Quote:
Originally Posted by thadoggfather View Post
im not replacing my 65" 9600 with a 55" c6 just to clarify

this 55" c6 would be a 9300 replacement which Is certainly an upgrade

but just purely curious how a 65" 9600 would stack up PQ against 55" c6

Essentially 4K stretched bigger size and lesser screen tech potentially visually being previous gen vs smaller 4K pic and potentially visual gains from a newer model

Last edited by Johnrecon; 06-18-2017 at 11:25 PM.
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post #19240 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 02:48 AM
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2016 LG C6-B6 owners thread

Guys, I am late to the party but I own a B6 and have question about the correct color gamut setting.

What does it need to be set at for:

Normal TV watching with the CI+ module
Bluray content
HDR content
Dolby Vision content

I have searched around for the answer on the web but everyone states something differently. Is there a definite answer?

Also which setting is best for HDMI Black level on the normal PS4?

Last edited by IMWhizzle; 06-19-2017 at 02:56 AM.
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post #19241 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Quebecker View Post
Yes for both.

You need a Chromecast or Nvidia shield for that.

YouTube HDR should be supported on PC someday however (When Microsoft finally fix the mess HDR currently is on Win 10)
you can say that again that's for sure

also power dvd 17 is affected

damm
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post #19242 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sechev00 View Post
So this just happened it's been doing this every so often and would disappear within a second, but now it's legit stuck on showing that. I've powered it off and still nothing. It boots to the same messed up looking screen. No matter which input is selected or if I'm on internal apps. My B6 is only about 2 months old if that. 245 hours on it. Is this most likely an LG warranty route I have to take?




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try clear panel noise from settings picture
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post #19243 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MirceaForce View Post
try clear panel noise from settings picture


A reset to factory settings finally made the screen go back to normal. The clear panel noise unfortunately had no change. I thought the issue was gone altogether since it seemed like the reset helped. My screen though is now doing the same thing to where it will look like that for about 1-2 seconds while playing or viewing content. I will most likely be giving LG a call.


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post #19244 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 08:45 AM
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cracked open the 55" C6

wow!!!

great colors, haven't tested vignetting/banding yet (ill wait for them to just rear their heads if they do)

but the uniformity is exceptional!

don't think I've seen a more uniform OLED to date !

so thrilled to have this as a bedroom set

the search button on the remote placed where home button is on my 9600 is frustrating tho haha I need to learn to not hit that
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post #19245 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by thadoggfather View Post
how do you guys think PQ would compare my UB 9600 65" to this 55" C6 I have yet to open?
assuming one has the right distance for both,
also, obligatory box pic
Shipping damage is rare but it happens, even if your box is perfect. All dealers get TV's shipped in, even Best Buy. Un-box and power that on and check it out.......
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post #19246 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 09:21 AM
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Shipping damage is rare but it happens, even if your box is perfect. All dealers get TV's shipped in, even Best Buy. Un-box and power that on and check it out.......
Did exactly that an hour ago good advice

I LOVE THIS SET/PANEL

webOS 3 aint too shabby either, coming from webOS 2 in living room, and the set this replaced, which had webOS 1


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I'm really new to this stuff and am trying to calibrate my B6.

Sorry for the stupid question but do I have to calibrate each picture mode because the LG automatically switches for different settings of time, day, or input, or do I just calibrate one picture setting and the LG keeps it there.

It looks like the LG keeps switching picture modes.

If so... I've looked through the forums, etc but am still confused as to optimal settings. Can you guys point me in the right direction?
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post #19248 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by djblisk View Post
I'm really new to this stuff and am trying to calibrate my B6.

Sorry for the stupid question but do I have to calibrate each picture mode because the LG automatically switches for different settings of time, day, or input, or do I just calibrate one picture setting and the LG keeps it there.

It looks like the LG keeps switching picture modes.

If so... I've looked through the forums, etc but am still confused as to optimal settings. Can you guys point me in the right direction?
Start with ISF Bright or Dark depending on your room. You have to set for each input. You also have to set for HDR and Dolbyvison content separately and on each input as well. It's a little tedious, but just play some content for each type and input and once you've got it set you're done. As far as optimal settings, they are pretty good out of the box, but suggest you either turn off TruMotion or set to manual with a low de-judder setting (it defaults to "clear" on all modes, and that setting will produce a noticeable Soap Opera Effect). Most people turn down contrast to about 85 and brightness may need to be bumped up to 51-53 or so. And most also turn down OLED light (but that is subjective and based on your room lighting).

Oh, also...you probably want to turn off all image processing such as Dynamic Contrast, Noise Reduction, Edge Enhancement, etc. Those settings in general will degrade the really great PQ that you get with this set. Leave Real Cinema on though...that is actually beneficial and will ensure correct 24 fps playback for movies. Oh, and last but not least...color gamut should be left at "Normal" for both SDR and HDR content. There has been a bit of confusion on this point--the set will automatically provide the correct color gamut based on the content. Manually changing it to "wide" will over-saturate colors.

Hope that helps. Good luck!
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post #19249 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 10:12 AM
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Big Thank You to ChadB

Hi All,

I want to give a big shout out to ChadB the ISF calibrator you have seen on our display threads. Let me tell you my story...
I recently had a LG service tech out to my home, to look at a uniformity issue with my OLED65C6P (Build Nov. 2016). There was a shadow at 95% - 85% black, it was on the right side of TV (see attachment). I was told that the panel needed to be replaced by the tech and an engineer who was on the phone. I really wasn't sure if I wanted the panel replaced since the shadow only happened in dark scenes, and you couldn't really see it even then. The panel lottery had me concerned. Would the new panel have dead pixels, be worst with uniformity issues?? So, I called ChadB. On his advice, I am having the panel replaced. He saw the photo attached, and said "if it were his TV, he would have it replaced". I haven't had any work done by ChadB yet, but for him to take the time to give advice to someone he didn't know was a huge thing. I appreciated it very much.
Thanks Again ChadB.

Todd
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post #19250 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Clement Afficial View Post
I don't know but I am still using brightness 49
It is very dark, but I get no washed out picture
Everytime I am trying to switch between brightness 50 and 49, I always go back to 49.. There is a huge difference. And changing oled light doesn't help.
Is it really possible that my screen panel is brighter than other screens, I wonder.
Maybe try a calibration disc? It's kind of hard to judge what should be true black just by eyeballing it. The brightness setting is usually around 51-53 for these sets. Only problem with the calibration disks is that the color calibration patterns are useless...the Color Management System (CMS) on these sets makes it impossible to calibrate proper color without a meter. So buying a disk is kind of a waste of money. Most game consoles have built-in brightness and contrast calibration functions. Some Blu-rays have that as well.
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Start with ISF Bright or Dark depending on your room. You have to set for each input. You also have to set for HDR and Dolbyvison content separately and on each input as well. It's a little tedious, but just play some content for each type and input and once you've got it set you're done. As far as optimal settings, they are pretty good out of the box, but suggest you either turn off TruMotion or set to manual with a low de-judder setting (it defaults to "clear" on all modes, and that setting will produce a noticeable Soap Opera Effect). Most people turn down contrast to about 85 and brightness may need to be bumped up to 51-53 or so. And most also turn down OLED light (but that is subjective and based on your room lighting).

Oh, also...you probably want to turn off all image processing such as Dynamic Contrast, Noise Reduction, Edge Enhancement, etc. Those settings in general will degrade the really great PQ that you get with this set. Leave Real Cinema on though...that is actually beneficial and will ensure correct 24 fps playback for movies. Oh, and last but not least...color gamut should be left at "Normal" for both SDR and HDR content. There has been a bit of confusion on this point--the set will automatically provide the correct color gamut based on the content. Manually changing it to "wide" will over-saturate colors.

Hope that helps. Good luck!
Sweet. Thanks dude.
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post #19252 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 01:46 PM
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Hello everyone! So to start off, last year I bought a Samsung KS8000 65 inch, but the tv had terrible clouding and light bleed. I wanted to exchange it but Samsung were being stubborn! I had to call over 10 times to try and get them to exchange it! So I was fed up and returned it!
Foward a week ago, I saw the LG C6 55 inch on sale at Fry's and I couldn't pass up the deal! I wish I would have noticed the sale a week before (it was 100 less and the 65 inch was also on sale for 2199). I wish the 65 inch was on sale but 55 would do for now lol.
This TV is awesome! the colors, the blacks! omg! but as I was going through this forum I noticed someone mention banding issues, maybe like 3 pages behind this current one.

I decided to lookup some videos on YouTube for the gray scale. Oh and before this though, I was on the Amazon app and since the background is grayish I noticed on the bottom left corner that it looked somewhat brighter or kind of "off" from the rest of the TV.

The first picture was using avs forums "bright room settings" but I put OLED light up to 100. The 2nd picture was for the same settings but I put OLED back to the original avs settings of 60. The 3rd pic I believe was just the settings for the "dark room" from avs.

I could not find a 3% gray (plus I did this pretty late at night) and I also tried some green test and white. To me it looked good I didn't see anything bad or even like vertical banding.

What do you guys think? Sorry I'm also kinda new to this stuff!

Thanks in advance!
That tv is plainly defective...exchange at once
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post #19253 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by newwave88 View Post
Hello everyone! So to start off, last year I bought a Samsung KS8000 65 inch, but the tv had terrible clouding and light bleed. I wanted to exchange it but Samsung were being stubborn! I had to call over 10 times to try and get them to exchange it! So I was fed up and returned it!
Foward a week ago, I saw the LG C6 55 inch on sale at Fry's and I couldn't pass up the deal! I wish I would have noticed the sale a week before (it was 100 less and the 65 inch was also on sale for 2199). I wish the 65 inch was on sale but 55 would do for now lol.
This TV is awesome! the colors, the blacks! omg! but as I was going through this forum I noticed someone mention banding issues, maybe like 3 pages behind this current one.

I decided to lookup some videos on YouTube for the gray scale. Oh and before this though, I was on the Amazon app and since the background is grayish I noticed on the bottom left corner that it looked somewhat brighter or kind of "off" from the rest of the TV.

The first picture was using avs forums "bright room settings" but I put OLED light up to 100. The 2nd picture was for the same settings but I put OLED back to the original avs settings of 60. The 3rd pic I believe was just the settings for the "dark room" from avs.

I could not find a 3% gray (plus I did this pretty late at night) and I also tried some green test and white. To me it looked good I didn't see anything bad or even like vertical banding.

What do you guys think? Sorry I'm also kinda new to this stuff!

Thanks in advance!
Well, for one...you shouldn't make any judgements based on the background images for any of the apps. Those tend to be low-res anyway. I'm not an expert, but if you don't spend most of your time just watching slides and you don't see anything wrong using regular content, I'd call it good. I think all panels are going to have some small amount of deviation when viewing slides. Just my two cents, but if I saw something off while watching normal High Def content, only then would I think about looking into warranty replacement.
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Hi everybody and thanks in advance for your help!

My low-end Sony Bravia 40W605 is not good and big enough to satisfy my "almost-4K" gaming consoles and I decided it's time to give myself a present and buy a mid-high end TV.

I was considering a Sony X900E series (and I still am) but then I thought, wait a minute, I can go +600€ and buy OLED B6, it's gonna be a huge difference! I was almost convinced until I read about IR, TV's burning and so on but then I thought everything gets amplified on the Internet and I wouldn't have literally bought any electronics if I panicked for what "the Internet" said. I decided to ask a colleague who has a friend working in a local electronics shop and he just took all my hype away... According to this guy, the IR and burnings are particularly prone to happen to someone playing video games because you could potentially end up playing a game where the map HUD is on the top left for a long period (let's say, an hour). He also mentioned they got back quite a lot TVs suffering from dead pixels and while these is happening in virtually any screen the OLEDs were more prone to it...

I'm excited on one hand to get myself an OLED but scared on the other hand about the reliability of their technology. What do you guys think about it?

Thanks a lot!
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post #19255 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 03:18 PM
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Is it true that b6 uses a Realtek SoC that compares to 9500/9600 speed ?

And C6 useless LG chip like e6?

If so wow


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post #19256 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jaricharte View Post
Hi everybody and thanks in advance for your help!

My low-end Sony Bravia 40W605 is not good and big enough to satisfy my "almost-4K" gaming consoles and I decided it's time to give myself a present and buy a mid-high end TV.

I was considering a Sony X900E series (and I still am) but then I thought, wait a minute, I can go +600€ and buy OLED B6, it's gonna be a huge difference! I was almost convinced until I read about IR, TV's burning and so on but then I thought everything gets amplified on the Internet and I wouldn't have literally bought any electronics if I panicked for what "the Internet" said. I decided to ask a colleague who has a friend working in a local electronics shop and he just took all my hype away... According to this guy, the IR and burnings are particularly prone to happen to someone playing video games because you could potentially end up playing a game where the map HUD is on the top left for a long period (let's say, an hour). He also mentioned they got back quite a lot TVs suffering from dead pixels and while these is happening in virtually any screen the OLEDs were more prone to it...

I'm excited on one hand to get myself an OLED but scared on the other hand about the reliability of their technology. What do you guys think about it?

Thanks a lot!
Burn in is not a problem with these sets. They're light years away from where they were with Plasma (where burn in was an issue). There is all kinds of tech built into the system to ensure it does not happen. I've played many games, hours and hours non-stop, and have had no issues. You might notice some image retention after a long time, but it quickly disappears (in a matter of seconds). Long time posters on this thread will confirm. Just do a search for IR or burn in. It's a non-issue.

Last edited by AbsolutelyFree; 06-19-2017 at 03:27 PM.
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post #19257 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 03:34 PM
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Burn in is not a problem with these sets. They're light years away from where they were with Plasma (where burn in was an issue). There is all kinds of tech built into the system to ensure it does not happen. I've played many games, hours and hours non-stop, and have had no issues. You might notice some image retention after a long time, but it quickly disappears (in a matter of seconds). Long time posters on this thread will confirm. Just do a search for IR or burn in. It's a non-issue.
After weeks and weeks of use mostly as a computer monitor, with a copy of "gkrellm" (a system monitor) always on my screen in the same place using a theme that was mostly dark purple, I finally noticed that any window with a white background and black text would have a sort of vaguely purplish tint in that area if I placed it over the position of the gkrellm window. Strangely, I saw no such tint with a pure white window, I had to have some black text in the vicinity. Watching TV never gave any hint of anything purple at that spot, so it was almost undetectable. Anyway, I moved where I place the gkrellm window, and the purple haze went away almost immediately. So I have now seen my first evidence of IR, but it was almost undetectable and easy to make go away.
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post #19258 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 03:43 PM
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is it true that b6 uses a realtek soc that compares to 9500/9600 speed ?

And c6 useless lg chip like e6?

If so wow
wut?
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post #19259 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 04:01 PM
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wut?
Uses* not useless auto correct

SoC =system on chip = processor/ram


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post #19260 of 19652 Old 06-19-2017, 04:36 PM
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Uses* not useless auto correct

SoC =system on chip = processor/ram
Yes, the B6 has a different processor (from the C6 / E6).

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