After 5 years of 24/7 service my un-modded UTV's HDD finally died. I took the drive from my other modded unit (original 40GB drive) and dropped it in. It only had a few months service on it before I replaced it with a 105 hr drive.
Frankly, I am amazed that I can go clear back to instructions written on '02 and restore back to normal. The DL of 3.7 went without a hitch and I am back in business in less than 24 hrs. I thought about loading 3.7 with winhex, but I was curious if it all still worked like before. It did! Afterwards I logged into my D* account and refreshed the services. Done.
One problem I noticed is the internal cooling fan seemed to have seized so I bought a replacement 60X60 fan. Trouble is it sounds like I'm in a hotel now.
Is there any place I can get a fan that is as quiet as the original? The rating on this one is 27db - too loud. The original fan wasn't even audible when it was working. It must have had a lower RPM.
I've made a "7volt" adapter from an old Y-style Molex Power Cable. It was ment to provide "low" power to my PC Slot Fan which I was using in my UTV. (A good idea for anyone needing extra cooling.)
However, the adapter didn't do much good for me. Either I didn't wire it correctly or the fan motor(s) I was trying to spin up didn't like that low voltage.
I'd agree with dan0. If you want to give it a try... it may be worth it. I don't see it causing an issue with your UTV's hard drive... As long as you prevent it from shorting out on the UTV's electronics. (Electrical tape is good!)
I installed my slot fan just as the directions said out of the box. It has a 4-pin molex pass-thru that attaches to the HDD for power. The sound is a little audible when everything else is off, but I can't hear it when watching TV or any other ancillary sound is present.
I did read somewhere about reducing the voltage to a CPU case fan to make it spin slower. I would like to try that even though the UTV is MUCH cooler with it at that speed.
Can you be a little more specific about the floppy drive "pass-thru", or other means to reduce the voltage? I do understand the formula of 12-5=7. I just do not understand which wires from where give me the desired result. Not to mention the stress you put on getting it right!
I have also seen what appeared to be a type of rheostat control for these PC case fans. I am not sure of the voltage requirements though.
I was about to get started on this when I remembered that the original fan had a connector that plugs onto a 2-terminal connection on the MB.
When I installed the new fan I cut the 2-pin connector off the old fan so I could plug it onto the same pins. The molex connector that came with the new fan is wired for +12v - red to yellow, and black to black.
It sounds like I am supposed to use the new 4-wire molex instead using:
Fan red → molex yellow
Fan black → molex red
I guess I am not to use the old 2-pin connection on the MB? Just ignore it altogether?
I suppose it depends on how you want to do things.
It might be easiest to simply rewire the Molex connector already on the fan and install it in-line. Just make sure the UTV Hard drive is still going to be getting "regular power".
The 2-pin MB connector may or may not be at 7 volts already (anyone know?)... If it is 7 volts you might be able to wire your 2 pin connector into the fan's Molex connector WITHOUT the need to cut the yellow/red wires OR directly share power with the UTV Hard drive.
Most likely you'll just ignore the connector altogether. Good luck.
Just for fun I pulled out my multimeter and measured the current at the pins on the MB. It is 12v. I had the new fan wired directly to it just like the original setup.
I switched that connection to be inline with the main power to the HDD using the method above. Now it is running at 7v, slower, and just as quiet as when it was new. I checked the heat and it appears to still be cooling OK.
I'm pleased with the results. Again thanks for the help and education.
Priced at $5.95 with $20 minimum order or $5 handling fee. This may have only bare leads and no plug. There is no plug in the picture and the part number does not have the S352 extension which may indicate the plug.
And this is likely more than anyone wanted to know.