Channel Master DVR+ Owners Thread - Page 221 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 596Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #6601 of 6626 Old 12-26-2014, 04:42 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 42
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 6
Speculation.....

CM releases an adapter that streams to other DVR+ via a new channel added to the guide.

I read back in the Summer they were working a streaming adapter.
The new channel can connect to the adapter and stream content from the disk.

That is my guess.
Egbert Souse' is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #6602 of 6626 Old 12-26-2014, 05:07 PM
Senior Member
 
RIppolito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
Nope.

TV is a 42" Samsung LCD, of fairly recent vintage. Just doubled-checked with my wife. She hasn't noticed any difference, either. She had noticed the difference with Aereo, via our Roku 3, even with Aereo set to "max quality."

Jim
My unit always powers on in 720p, regardless of the resolution selection. If I manually select 1080i,it handshakes with my preamp, and afterwards, it does 1080. Perhaps you could try that and see if it helps.
Ron
RIppolito is offline  
post #6603 of 6626 Old 12-26-2014, 07:01 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinkerdog View Post
... At least once a week, I have to unplug the DVR+ to allow it to reset. I do this because the DVR+ stops responding to the remote. You can press any button on the remote, and it does nothing with the DVR+. So, unplug the DVR+, plug it back up and once it resets, you are good to go.

Does anyone else have this problem?
I have that problem as well. And I don't think resetting the DVR+ is the complete answer. I found that the remote goes unresponsive fairly quickly after a reset so I searched for a different route.

Others have felt that replacing the batteries is the answer and I wonder how long the new batteries will last before the remote starts acting up again.

What I have found so far is an "ugly" solution. Someone back in post 5000 or so suggested bending the contacts under the batteries. Instead of doing that, I put a thin cardboard shim between the batteries and the removable access door. Now, when the remote becomes unresponsive, I squeeze the spot where the shim is and the remote starts working again. Until someone comes up with a better answer (or finds fresh batteries will last longer than a few months), I'll stay with this one.

And btw, bernieoc clued me in on a better way to reset the unit than pulling the power cord. Hold down the button that's just to the right of the LED for about 10 seconds and the DVR+ goes through a reset.
owburp is offline  
post #6604 of 6626 Old 12-26-2014, 10:26 PM
Member
 
MKS13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 158
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by owburp View Post
I have that problem as well. And I don't think resetting the DVR+ is the complete answer. I found that the remote goes unresponsive fairly quickly after a reset so I searched for a different route.
Others have felt that replacing the batteries is the answer and I wonder how long the new batteries will last before the remote starts acting up again.
What I have found so far is an "ugly" solution. Someone back in post 5000 or so suggested bending the contacts under the batteries. Instead of doing that, I put a thin cardboard shim between the batteries and the removable access door. Now, when the remote becomes unresponsive, I squeeze the spot where the shim is and the remote starts working again. Until someone comes up with a better answer (or finds fresh batteries will last longer than a few months), I'll stay with this one.
If putting a shim in the remote fixes the problem, it would indicate that the batteries are not weak.
I just replaced the batteries in a unit that was purchased Feb 2014, because of remote response. However I also tweaked the springs under the batteries at the same time, so what cured the remote response I don't really know-- not a good trouble shooting procedure, it should be one thing at a time, but it was the safer route as it was my wife's unit.
As to battery cost, they can be found on Amazon for $.50 each or your local Dollar General for the same price.
MKS13 is offline  
post #6605 of 6626 Old 12-26-2014, 11:52 PM
Senior Member
 
OTA_jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by owburp View Post
Others have felt that replacing the batteries is the answer and I wonder how long the new batteries will last before the remote starts acting up again.

What I have found so far is an "ugly" solution. Someone back in post 5000 or so suggested bending the contacts under the batteries. Instead of doing that, I put a thin cardboard shim between the batteries and the removable access door. Now, when the remote becomes unresponsive, I squeeze the spot where the shim is and the remote starts working again. Until someone comes up with a better answer (or finds fresh batteries will last longer than a few months), I'll stay with this one.
Firstly, if you're relying upon the OEM batteries that came with the unit, it's best not to assume that replacing them won't help. The age and quality of the batteries provided are highly questionable (as would be $.50 dollar store type batteries, as was someone's suggestion).
Best to replace the OEM batteries with a fresh set of Duracell's (which are superior to the OEM/dollar store variety).
At least this way you'll know for sure whether or not the batteries are the source of the problem.

Secondly, instead of using "shims" and bending (and possibly breaking) contacts, why not consider asking Channel Master to replace the remote under warranty?
Since you can't be left without the use of a remote, the only solution would be for them to mail one out and have you send back the original one when you receive it (even if they have to debit and then credit back your credit card).
Anything less than this would be poor customer relations on their part!
The design (using button batteries) and build quality of these remotes seems to be questionable at best (based upon numerous reports here of problematic remotes).

Last edited by OTA_jay; 12-26-2014 at 11:59 PM.
OTA_jay is online now  
post #6606 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 12:26 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKS13 View Post
If putting a shim in the remote fixes the problem, it would indicate that the batteries are not weak.
I just replaced the batteries in a unit that was purchased Feb 2014, because of remote response. However I also tweaked the springs under the batteries at the same time, so what cured the remote response I don't really know ...
I remember reading someone here had suggested that same tweaking of the springs, but I had done that once or twice with other equipment and the tabs eventually broke from repeated "tweakings". Not wanting to take that chance with a relatively new unit (got it on a July 4 special), I thought the shims idea was a safer alternative. As I said, it's an ugly solution requiring some manual dexterity what with squeezing the battery hatch while pushing the right buttons. All I know is that the frustration of an unresponsive remote is virtually gone using the shims.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTA_jay View Post
Firstly, if you're relying upon the OEM batteries that came with the unit, it's best not to assume that replacing them won't help. ...
I know at some point, the remote will once again become unresponsive even with the squeezing; that's when I will change the batteries. Then I expect I'll note how long the new batteries last before I have to resort to shims again.

[Don't call me cheap. Call me frugal.]

Here's another question: I know some posters here have switched to a Dish 20.1 remote. Are you experiencing these unresponsive episodes as well?

Last edited by owburp; Yesterday at 12:34 AM. Reason: responding to an additional post
owburp is offline  
post #6607 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 12:55 AM
Senior Member
 
OTA_jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by owburp View Post
I know at some point, the remote will once again become unresponsive even with the squeezing; that's when I will change the batteries. Then I expect I'll note how long the new batteries last before I have to resort to shims again.
[Don't call me cheap. Call me frugal.]

Here's another question: I know some posters here have switched to a Dish 20.1 remote. Are you experiencing these unresponsive episodes as well?
Sorry to belabor this but it would be in your best interest to invest in a set of new Duracell's. If that doesn't solve your problem, talk to Channel Master (or send them an e-mail if you prefer) about getting a replacement remote.
You shouldn't need to go through all that trouble just to get your unit to respond to the remote!

I've had no experience with the Dish remote but there have been numerous reports here of programming issues (as it's a learning remote and they can be difficult and tedious to set up).

Last edited by OTA_jay; Yesterday at 04:35 AM.
OTA_jay is online now  
post #6608 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 06:11 AM
Member
 
bernieoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 194
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked: 19
I am using the Dish 20.1 - had occasional sluggish response on previous release - no problem since.
Another benefit - you can aim the 20.1 way off target and it works - I found the original required more of a direct aim (earlier release)
Yes programming is a chore - I am still working on unit #2 to control TV volume without using the TV button first the switching back to AUX, Did it succesfull on first unit - have not fixed #2 yet - it means starting over.
bernieoc is online now  
post #6609 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 08:01 AM
Member
 
artisticimaging's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 168
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 59 Post(s)
Liked: 33
I am using a AA battery learning remote for my DVR+ I bought in January;I have had no problem with sluggish response except when the overlay is on.
artisticimaging is offline  
post #6610 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 01:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Aleron Ives's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,125
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked: 450
If you're really that worried about batteries, get a small multimeter at your local electronics store so you can just measure their voltage instead of guessing whether they are causing problems. A battery is a battery; as long as you're getting ~1.5V out of it, it doesn't matter if it's some knockoff-brand cell or a well known one.
Aleron Ives is offline  
post #6611 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 02:20 PM
Senior Member
 
OTA_jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleron Ives View Post
A battery is a battery; as long as you're getting ~1.5V out of it, it doesn't matter if it's some knockoff-brand cell or a well known one.
This isn't necessarily true.
You may get 1.5V out of a battery
.....but for how long?
Knockoffs may only have a brief shelf life and/or time in use. They're typically not dated and could be sitting around for quite awhile before you even put them into use. I've also seen OEM or knockoffs that were of a different formulation (such as alkaline, which could be 50% or more depleted by the time you purchase them).
These type of batteries are supposed to be lithium.
Sometimes (not always) you get what you pay for. This is one of those times.
OTA_jay is online now  
post #6612 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 02:30 PM
Newbie
 
BNystrom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
New to the DVR+

I just picked up a slightly used DVR+ with a Seagate 1TB external drive, the CM wireless dongle and a Mohu Leaf 50+ antenna. Upgrading the software via wireless took over two hours, which is pretty insane for a 67MB download, but it's working fine. I'd like to move the Seagate drive into the DVR+ instead of hanging it on the outside and I've emailed CM to find out if that will work. I assume so, since their DVR+ 1TB seems to be the same configuration. Hopefully, there aren't any firmware or software differences.

I've had a Logitech Harmony One remote for a few years and I programmed it to work with the DVR+ without any significant issues, once I learned that you have to enter it as model CM-7500GB16 (Channel Master doesn't include the dash in the model number on the DVR+ box).

I'll test the Mohu antenna on a bedroom TV that's not on my main antenna, to see if it's any better than the amplified Recoton that's on it now.
BNystrom is online now  
post #6613 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 02:46 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Aleron Ives's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,125
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked: 450
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTA_jay View Post
This isn't necessarily true. You may get 1.5V out of a battery .....but for how long?
Yes, but that's not relevant for the point at hand, which is determining whether the batteries are causing problems with the remote. If you measure the batteries' voltage and determine that they are still charged, then you can definitively rule them out as being the cause of the problem. How long they last isn't related to troubleshooting the DVR's current unresponsiveness.
Aleron Ives is offline  
post #6614 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 03:12 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Why won't my Seagate desktop drives work?

I've tried both the Seagate STBV1000100 and STBV2000100 corded desktop drives, but the DVR+ will not format either. It recognizes the drives, asks if I want to format, then doesn't let me complete the setup (instead of "finish", my only choice is "cancel"). I realize now that the unit will not support a 2TB drive, but why not a 1TB drive? C.M. suggested that I try to return the drives and buy Seagate models STCD500102, STBX1000100, STBU1000100, STCA3000100 or STBV3000100. I just wanted to use a corded desktop drive. I've read many posts here, and people seem to have success with just about any drive, even SATA drives in enclosures. What is it about a brand new Seagate desktop expansion drive that makes it incompatible, and is there any way to make it work? I'm tired of wasting money.
Van T is offline  
post #6615 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 03:35 PM
Senior Member
 
OTA_jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van T View Post
I've tried both the Seagate STBV1000100 and STBV2000100 corded desktop drives, but the DVR+ will not format either. It recognizes the drives, asks if I want to format, then doesn't let me complete the setup (instead of "finish", my only choice is "cancel"). I realize now that the unit will not support a 2TB drive, but why not a 1TB drive? C.M. suggested that I try to return the drives and buy Seagate models STCD500102, STBX1000100, STBU1000100, STCA3000100 or STBV3000100. I just wanted to use a corded desktop drive. I've read many posts here, and people seem to have success with just about any drive, even SATA drives in enclosures. What is it about a brand new Seagate desktop expansion drive that makes it incompatible, and is there any way to make it work? I'm tired of wasting money.
FYI.....
I had two DOA Seagate 1TB drives (back to back)!
Exchanged for WD and no problems.
In your case, you may have a defective DVR+ (anything is possible) but I would first try a WD "Elements" or "My Passport Ultra" portable drive prior to making this determination. The "Elements" will be less costly and is actually the same drive minus back-up software that is useless in this application.
If you prefer a drive in an enclosure, consider either a WD "Elements" or "My Book".
There have been fewer issues reported here from WD users vs. Seagate.
I have no axe to grind. My experiences with Seagate drives (and that WD has a better reputation these days overall) is why I recommend WD. Period, end of story.
Good luck!

Last edited by OTA_jay; Yesterday at 03:44 PM.
OTA_jay is online now  
post #6616 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 03:40 PM
Senior Member
 
OTA_jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleron Ives View Post
Yes, but that's not relevant for the point at hand, which is determining whether the batteries are causing problems with the remote. If you measure the batteries' voltage and determine that they are still charged, then you can definitively rule them out as being the cause of the problem. How long they last isn't related to troubleshooting the DVR's current unresponsiveness.
True.....but there's a question mark regarding whether or not they're producing the (essential) 1.5V to start with.
The average person won't have a meter or tester (and shouldn't have to invest in one).
Best to rule out this issue altogether by investing a few dollars for known, reliable batteries from the outset.
OTA_jay is online now  
post #6617 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 03:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JoeKustra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ashland, PA 17921
Posts: 6,777
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked: 135
I hate to get involved, but why not. Using a meter to test batteries is not 100% accurate. That's why you can buy a battery tester. A multimeter is designed to NOT put a load on the source. A battery tester is designed to place a load on the battery. For AA batteries I simply use a flashlight. For AAA I built a small tester from parts at Radio Shack. I used a high load lamp too. Batteries used in NiMH chargers are rated by the current they can produce over a period of time, just like a car battery. An almost dead battery will produce 1.5v without a load, but make it work and that voltage may drop to zero. So, I always put Lithium (bunny) batteries in my remotes and never use those shipped with the device. Some last for years. A good remote will also have an LED that can indicate strength. That "other" device, when using an RF remote, can also show the remote's battery's condition. If you feel a CVS 50 cent battery is the same as Energizer $2.50 battery, then sleep well. I don't.
JoeKustra is online now  
post #6618 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 04:36 PM
Newbie
 
saidias's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Bump

Quote:
Originally Posted by saidias View Post
I definitely can not search (and find) programming on channels that have PSIP data ONLY. It appears the Search function only searches data from Rovi..

Anyone else confirm this?
saidias is offline  
post #6619 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 04:42 PM
Thread Ender
 
WS65711's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Covington, LA OTA & Charter CableCard
Posts: 4,214
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post
I hate to get involved, but why not. Using a meter to test batteries is not 100% accurate. That's why you can buy a battery tester. A multimeter is designed to NOT put a load on the source. A battery tester is designed to place a load on the battery. For AA batteries I simply use a flashlight...
Joe is correct. I was tempted to post similar info earlier, but I also "hated to get involved". Now that I am involved, I don't think there are any better rechargeable "AA" and "AAA" batteries than Sanyo EneLoop. They are NiMH with a high current rating, but like almost all rechargeables they put out a lower voltage.. about 1.2 volts. Their major benefit is that they hold their charge for a very long time when used in low-current devices (like remotes) and can thus be used in many applications where ni-cads (or even many other NiMH batteries) would be dead if you let the device sit idle for a few weeks . . .

Don't ever make the MISTAKE of buying a Samsung TV..
They consider THIS
normal on a two month old set..

It's a shame that in the end TCU's playoff chances all came down to this . . .
WS65711 is offline  
post #6620 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 05:02 PM
Senior Member
 
OTA_jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by WS65711 View Post
Joe is correct. I was tempted to post similar info earlier, but I also "hated to get involved". Now that I am involved, I don't think there are any better rechargeable "AA" and "AAA" batteries than Sanyo EneLoop. They are NiMH with a high current rating, but like almost all rechargeables they put out a lower voltage.. about 1.2 volts. Their major benefit is that they hold their charge for a very long time when used in low-current devices (like remotes) and can thus be used in many applications where ni-cads (or even many other NiMH batteries) would be dead if you let the device sit idle for a few weeks . . .
FYI.....They're actually Panasonic eneloop (Panasonic purchased this division from Sanyo some time back).
Regardless, these type of batteries are incompatible with the DVR+ remote.
It uses button batteries that are
non-rechargeable only.
OTA_jay is online now  
post #6621 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 07:00 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Transferring .ts files to PC

Quote:
Originally Posted by DD24 View Post
... Installed Ext2Fsd on my Windows Vista system and was able to access the DVR+ USB drive and copy a file off the drive without any problems. BTW, when you re-attach the USB drive to the DVR+ it does a complete reboot, which for me takes a little over 1 minute...
Going back to some earlier posts here, I finally decided to try this out. My external drive is currently attached to a laptop running Ext2Fsd so I can see the recorded programs (cryptic though the filenames may be). I copied off a few of the files and opened one of them up in a program I installed earlier today (AnyMP4 Video Converter Platinum; it's today's freebie from the Giveaway of the Day site, free only if installed by 3am EST). I can view the recorded program within Video Converter and am at the moment converting it to a .vob file.

The biggest pain is going to be figuring out which file goes with which recorded program since the filenames are in the form Strm####.ts and only a handful of them show a date and time. And even those dates and times make no sense, unless they refer to when I viewed the file rather than when they were recorded.

EDIT: The converted .vob file had tiny skips every so often; not good. I converted a second .ts file, this one turned out to be a PBS show and I edited out the beginning and ending of the show. The 54 minute segment took a little over an hour to convert to an HD MPG4 file and the few minutes that I watched were perfect, no skips or dropouts.

Last edited by owburp; Yesterday at 08:50 PM. Reason: Results of conversions
owburp is offline  
post #6622 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 07:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Aleron Ives's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,125
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked: 450
Quote:
Originally Posted by WS65711 View Post
They are NiMH with a high current rating, but like almost all rechargeables they put out a lower voltage.. about 1.2 volts. Their major benefit is that they hold their charge for a very long time when used in low-current devices (like remotes) and can thus be used in many applications where ni-cads (or even many other NiMH batteries) would be dead if you let the device sit idle for a few weeks . . .
Standard NiMH batteries have a very high self discharge rate and will drain within a month or so, even if you don't use them. Some NiMH batteries are designed to have a higher shelf life and consequently have a much lower self discharge rate, but the penalty for that benefit is a lower total capacity (by a few hundred mAH compared to "normal" NiMH cells). Both NiMH and NiCd cells deliver 1.2V, but you can get rechargeable alkalines that deliver the same 1.5V as single-use cells. They aren't as common as NiMH cells are these days, though, and you need a special charger for them, too.

I have an old Rayovac charger for my rechargeable alkalines, although sadly Rayovac only makes single-use cells now. I don't really see a huge point in using rechargeables in a remote, anyway, since they tend to last so long on a set of batteries.
Aleron Ives is offline  
post #6623 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 07:37 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JHBrandt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S. Garland, TX
Posts: 2,012
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 251 Post(s)
Liked: 215
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhlaser View Post
Apologies if this is not a new thread (using an iPad to post, only see reply option)
Not sure if this behavior is normal, also not sure if it was due to latest firmware 114. Have been recording a series, all was well until this week when a different show replaced it. The dvr recorded that show, complete with correct title listing in the same time slot. Options are set to record by name. It appears that it recorded the same time slot and the name was different. This is not a problem because all I need do is delete, but now I am wondering if the show changed time slot, would it record the show at new time, theoretically this is what I thought should happen when you program a series to record by name. This scenario is the first time I've seen it so can't determine a pattern. Any thoughts, settings, etc.
I've seen the same behavior. With the Rovi guide, if a show changes time slots the DVR+ will record both the original and new time slot. Oddly, this didn't seem to happen with PSIP guide info, at least with 108R firmware. (It may have changed in 114R.)

It doesn't normally cause a problem aside from making an unwanted recording, but it could be a problem if the unwanted recording is immediately before or after the wanted one (for instance, if a 1-hour show moves to 1 hour earlier or later). In that case, the DVR+ will be doing back-to-back recordings, which causes it to drop any padding between them. I suspect if a show moved forward or backward by less than its own length, you might lose the wanted recording completely, since the DVR+ will not make overlapping recordings on the same channel. (If you try to set two overlapping manual recordings, it will report a conflict if they are on the same channel, but not if they are on different channels!)
JHBrandt is offline  
post #6624 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 07:38 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JHBrandt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S. Garland, TX
Posts: 2,012
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 251 Post(s)
Liked: 215
Quote:
Originally Posted by saidias View Post
I definitely can not search (and find) programming on channels that have PSIP data ONLY. It appears the Search function only searches data from Rovi..

Anyone else confirm this?
I just confirmed it. BTW, I think this is new since 114R; I'm pretty sure I could search PSIP data with 108R.
JHBrandt is offline  
post #6625 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 08:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JHBrandt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S. Garland, TX
Posts: 2,012
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 251 Post(s)
Liked: 215
Uh-oh; none of my manual recordings are showing anything scheduled after 12/31. But name-based recordings continue into the new year fine.

Perhaps it will self-correct on 1/1. I'll keep you all posted.
JHBrandt is offline  
post #6626 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 08:20 PM
Member
 
richart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post
I hate to get involved, but why not. Using a meter to test batteries is not 100% accurate. That's why you can buy a battery tester. A multimeter is designed to NOT put a load on the source. A battery tester is designed to place a load on the battery.
Some multimeters now include a battery test function. The cheap $5.99 meter at Harbor Freight even has a battery test function that actually works.
richart is offline  
post #6627 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 09:46 PM
Member
 
DD24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by owburp View Post
The biggest pain is going to be figuring out which file goes with which recorded program since the filenames are in the form Strm####.ts and only a handful of them show a date and time. And even those dates and times make no sense, unless they refer to when I viewed the file rather than when they were recorded.
After the 103R firmware update here is what you have to do to find the video file you want:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DD24 View Post
I don't think this has been reported yet but after the 103R firmware update none of the video files (StrmXXXX.ts) on the HDD have a valid date/time stamp. This is also true for all of the associated files on the first partition of the HDD. This makes it a little more difficult to find and copy a specific recorded program off of the HDD. But what you can do is look through all of the StrmXXXX.log files on the first partition to find the program you want. These log files are readable as standard text files and they contain the program title and description.
owburp likes this.
DD24 is offline  
post #6628 of 6626 Old Yesterday, 10:52 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by DD24 View Post
After the 103R firmware update here is what you have to do to find the video file you want:

...look through all of the StrmXXXX.log files on the first partition to find the program you want. These log files are readable as standard text files and they contain the program title and description.
WOW! You just saved me a HUGE amount of time!! The log files don't appear to be pure text -- my text editor (NoteTab) had to be set to filter out binary contents -- but there's enough readable info to tell me what is in the recording. Now I can transfer over just those files that I really want to convert. THANKS DD24!!
owburp is offline  
post #6629 of 6626 Old Today, 07:55 AM
Advanced Member
 
SEMIJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: S.E. Michgan
Posts: 617
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
Liked: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by WS65711 View Post
... I don't think there are any better rechargeable "AA" and "AAA" batteries than Sanyo EneLoop.
Other than the NiCads in my old Ham Radio portable radios: I've never had good luck with rechargeable batteries. But I've heard, consistently, so many good things about Eneloops that I decided to give them a try. I think we're on about year two, with them. No complaints, so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WS65711 View Post
Their major benefit is that they hold their charge for a very long time when used in low-current devices ...
Or even just sitting in storage. Very low self-discharge rate.

As the alkaline batteries in various devices exhaust, they're all being replaced with either Eneloops or with Energizer lithium batteries. Save the rectangular 9V cells: I'm eliminating all alkaleak batteries.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleron Ives View Post
... you can get rechargeable alkalines that deliver the same 1.5V as single-use cells. They aren't as common as NiMH cells are these days, though, and you need a special charger for them, too.
They were never very common, they were expensive, and their MTBF was terrible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleron Ives View Post
I have an old Rayovac charger for my rechargeable alkalines,...
I had one of those. Had. All the batteries, along with the chargers, just got sent to the recycler earlier this year.

The product disappeared because its performance was abysmal. You could get nowhere near the number of charge/discharge cycles out of their batteries as they claimed you could.

Jim
SEMIJim is online now  
Reply HDTV Recorders

Tags
Channel Master , dvr+ , maintanance restart

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off