Homeworx HW-150PVR, Support and Discussion - Page 28 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 1683 Old 01-13-2014, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jprc View Post

But it's $30 off. A bit more expensive than the US but $46 with shipping is still not a bad price. With the exchange rate, you're really only paying the shipping cost as difference.



Thanks. Bought one.
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post #812 of 1683 Old 01-14-2014, 05:24 PM
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Anyone here using the homeworx coax digital audio out? I just got a replacement unit and I still cannot get digital audio via COAX. audio over HDMI is fine. I have tried PCM, RAW, and RAW HDMI with no luck. I have also disconnected the HDMI cable. My Anthem says there is no digital input.

I tested the cable on an Oppo and it works just fine and I tested it on the same input port.

I'm at a loss as to why I can't get audio via digital coax??

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post #813 of 1683 Old 01-14-2014, 06:22 PM
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If one was to have a better OTA Tuner to pull in distant TV stations, is the 180 (non-PVR) better than the 150PVR or do they use the same digital tuner and therefore the scanning results will be the same?

Thanks guys.
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post #814 of 1683 Old 01-14-2014, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afterlife2 View Post

Thanks guys for your help. I'm getting breakups on some channels in my apt. I have this antenna outside my window on the 6th fl. : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TIELEM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I'm using this cheap amp: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ETDSUE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should I get the attenuator or the booster I posted? It will be for the OTA TV and the Homeworx box only. Thanks!
At least your antenna is up high. That's a good start; it'll keep your signals from being affected by blowing tree limbs.

I couldn't find a noise figure for the Philips amp. That's usually not good news.

I bet you'd have the best results by removing the Philips amp and passive splitter, and replacing the combo with the CM distribution amp. Signal strength will be slightly lower (so you probably won't need an attenuator) but the noise will probably be a lot lower (the first amp's NF usually completely dominates anything downstream), so the S/N ratio will probably improve. That should help.
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post #815 of 1683 Old 01-14-2014, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by seattlemark View Post

I plan on using two HW-150s in series, using the RF out (with "Loop through" Modulation setting) of the first unit sending the antenna signal to the second unit. (So no splitter necessary for this.) That way I can record back-to-back TV programs (even on different channels), without losing any of the second program's recording. (Which can happen with just one unit when it's switching to recording mode for the second program.) With two units, both units can be programmed to record their shows a bit early, and end a bit late, without a problem. So I will basically have a two tuner DVR setup (like I had with the cable company I cut the cord from). Since my TV has multiple Component and HDMI inputs, I won't even have to move cables to watch either recording; I will just need to switch inputs on the TV.
Have you thought about how you're going to control them separately, since they both use the same remote? (One solution would be to load iView firmware on one and buy an iView remote.)

Note: In the past I've repeated a suggestion which I read somewhere, but which I recently discovered will not usually work: using polarized filters over the remote's IR LED and each box's IR sensor, and rotating the remote to control one unit or the other. The problem is most polarized filters work only over the visible frequency spectrum ant not at IR (not even near IR) frequencies. There are near-IR polarized filters (for photographers), but they are very expensive.
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post #816 of 1683 Old 01-14-2014, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seattlemark View Post

I plan on using two HW-150s in series, using the RF out (with "Loop through" Modulation setting) of the first unit sending the antenna signal to the second unit. (So no splitter necessary for this.) That way I can record back-to-back TV programs (even on different channels), without losing any of the second program's recording. (Which can happen with just one unit when it's switching to recording mode for the second program.) With two units, both units can be programmed to record their shows a bit early, and end a bit late, without a problem. So I will basically have a two tuner DVR setup (like I had with the cable company I cut the cord from). Since my TV has multiple Component and HDMI inputs, I won't even have to move cables to watch either recording; I will just need to switch inputs on the TV.
Have you thought about how you're going to control them separately, since they both use the same remote? (One solution would be to load iView firmware on one and buy an iView remote.)

Note: In the past I've repeated a suggestion which I read somewhere, but which I recently discovered will not usually work: using polarized filters over the remote's IR LED and each box's IR sensor, and rotating the remote to control one unit or the other. The problem is most polarized filters work only over the visible frequency spectrum ant not at IR (not even near IR) frequencies. There are near-IR polarized filters (for photographers), but they are very expensive.

 

You need a KLUGE!

 

Explanation here.


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post #817 of 1683 Old 01-14-2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

Anyone here using the homeworx coax digital audio out? I just got a replacement unit and I still cannot get digital audio via COAX. audio over HDMI is fine. I have tried PCM, RAW, and RAW HDMI with no luck. I have also disconnected the HDMI cable. My Anthem says there is no digital input.

I tested the cable on an Oppo and it works just fine and I tested it on the same input port.

I'm at a loss as to why I can't get audio via digital coax??
Haven't used it myself, but at least one person seems to be having success with coaxial digital audio:
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldspammer View Post

Seems to me from my experimentation of feeding the HDMI output to a computer capture card and having the digital audio coax go to my 5.1 audio receiver, the only audio mode that delivered Dolby digital AC3 to the audio receiver was the setting designated "PCM" in the menus--a non-obvious setting.  Other settings changed the recognition done by my receiver as "non-5.1" audio.
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post #818 of 1683 Old 01-14-2014, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post

Have you thought about how you're going to control them separately, since they both use the same remote? (One solution would be to load iView firmware on one and buy an iView remote.)


Note: In the past I've repeated a suggestion which I read somewhere, but which I recently discovered will not usually work: using polarized filters over the remote's IR LED and each box's IR sensor, and rotating the remote to control one unit or the other. The problem is most polarized filters work only over the visible frequency spectrum ant not at IR (not even near IR) frequencies. There are near-IR polarized filters (for photographers), but they are very expensive.

You need a KLUGE!

Explanation here.
Clever ideas. #4 is obviously specific to the Funai HDD/DVD recorders, but the other 3 would work for the Homeworx.

Cleverest, although the most expensive, is the idea of using two NextGen remote extenders, one at 418 MHz and the other at 433 MHz. Of course you'd have to seal each "flying saucer" and its corresponding Homeworx in separate light-tight boxes (perhaps with holes for cables/ventilation in the back). Although NextGen extenders are rather expensive for this use, they're still cheaper than near-IR polarized filters - and you'd get the advantage of whole-house control!
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post #819 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post

Have you thought about how you're going to control them separately, since they both use the same remote? ...

Yes, I am going to keep it rather simple. When setting up two recordings, for the first recording I plan to temporarily turn off the other HW-150 that I don't want the remote to affect (by using the physical button in the front of the unit). Then doing the opposite to set up the recording on the other unit. (I tested something similar before with a remote as I already own two units, that are normally in two rooms, but were together for that test.) For playback, even if I keep both units on at the same time it would be okay as I have separate Component or HDMI cables going to separate TV inputs. But I need to also look closer at the KLUGE wajo is referring to above!

In actuality most of the time I will be needing just one unit for my recordings, but for the price it was worth getting a second unit for the main TV. As occasionally over the last month I have wished I had one. (Like when I recently messed up my wife's TV viewing on that TV because of my recording. smile.gif )
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post #820 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post

Have you thought about how you're going to control them separately, since they both use the same remote? (One solution would be to load iView firmware on one and buy an iView remote.)

Note: In the past I've repeated a suggestion which I read somewhere, but which I recently discovered will not usually work: using polarized filters over the remote's IR LED and each box's IR sensor, and rotating the remote to control one unit or the other. The problem is most polarized filters work only over the visible frequency spectrum ant not at IR (not even near IR) frequencies. There are near-IR polarized filters (for photographers), but they are very expensive.

You can also use a solution based on iTach devices that have discreet IR ports. So you can control the same manufacturer or same model devices independently. I use Roomie Remote org iTach IP to IR converters and use both the supplied flashers and the Niles IR flashers. It works flawlessly.

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post #821 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by chazdole View Post

Tested my HW-150 coax digital out. Results: 5.1 digital works in the RAW as well as the RAW HDMI ON settings. DOES NOT WORK when set to PCM. (Stereo only)

Only tested the coax digital output, my surround amp doesn't have HDMI inputs. (RCA RT-2350 circa early 2000's)

Works this way with live TV or recorded shows.

SW Version: CL630133 131115 V14
HW Version: 7816-ATSC-03

Ok, this is really helpful and I appreciate your help on this. I have it set to HDMI Raw but no audio. Can I ask what other connections you have on the unit?

Right now, I'm just trying to confirm live TV. I'll deal with recorded stuff later!! smile.gif

Thanks a ton for this.

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post #822 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by chazdole View Post

I'm getting audio to my surround sound unit from the HW-150 thru the coax, not sure it is multi-channel. Haven't messed with it too much yet, just swapped it into it's current location, where I used to have an iview-3500.

Are you getting no sound at all? Or just not 5.1? Is this from live TV, or playing back recorded programs?

I'll play around with it and see what I get.

Just to confirm, I'm getting no sound at all from the digital coax output. I get sound from RF and HDMI just fine. I haven't tested the analog outputs yet.

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post #823 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post

At least your antenna is up high. That's a good start; it'll keep your signals from being affected by blowing tree limbs.

I couldn't find a noise figure for the Philips amp. That's usually not good news.

I bet you'd have the best results by removing the Philips amp and passive splitter, and replacing the combo with the CM distribution amp. Signal strength will be slightly lower (so you probably won't need an attenuator) but the noise will probably be a lot lower (the first amp's NF usually completely dominates anything downstream), so the S/N ratio will probably improve. That should help.

Thanks JH and Chaz I'll give the CM a try and if it doesn't work after 2 weeks I'll send it back to amazon. I also read if it's windy outside breakup tends to happen. I wish they had a HDMI type of coaxial to get the best picture ever.eek.gif

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post #824 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by chazdole View Post

What are your Hardware/Firmware versions? Sounds like it might be a firmware issue.

I'll double check that after work tonight. The units are brand new from Amazon but who knows how long they have been sitting in inventory!

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post #825 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chazdole View Post

Tested my HW-150 coax digital out. Results: 5.1 digital works in the RAW as well as the RAW HDMI ON settings. DOES NOT WORK when set to PCM. (Stereo only)

Only tested the coax digital output, my surround amp doesn't have HDMI inputs. (RCA RT-2350 circa early 2000's)

Works this way with live TV or recorded shows.


Yep I can confirm that via coaxial on my receiver(AUX) is Dolby Digital 5.1.

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post #826 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 03:30 PM
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Hello,
 I recently purchased an HW-150 PVR and I'm starting to realize it wasn't the solution to my problems.

I'm looking for a device that will output all the channels my TV can receive through coax, except in HDMI. (For use with the Xbox One)
I feel like this crap diagram can explain it better than I can in words.

I'm starting to think the only thing that will do this for me is renting a cable set top box from Cox (my provider)
If there is an alternative please let me know. And if you could educate me on why the HW-150 PVR didn't do the trick, and the differences between QAM, Clear QAM, ATSC, OTA, and all that nonsense I would appreciate it.

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post #827 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chazdole View Post

Tested my HW-150 coax digital out. Results: 5.1 digital works in the RAW as well as the RAW HDMI ON settings. DOES NOT WORK when set to PCM. (Stereo only)

Only tested the coax digital output, my surround amp doesn't have HDMI inputs. (RCA RT-2350 circa early 2000's)

Works this way with live TV or recorded shows.

SW Version: CL630133 131115 V14
HW Version: 7816-ATSC-03

Wow! My SW version is v8??!!! Specifically build CL630133 130713 V8. Hardware is identical to yours. It looks like the Amazon stock is a bit outdated! I'll upgrade firmware and report back.

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post #828 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 04:03 PM
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Well, now the mystery deepens. Per the Homeworx forum: http://forum.mediasonic.ca/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=1925&sid=dd818c13dd8c23238c5464b76dc7ba0e

Stop chasing for firmware update ( there is no update)
if you box came with
V8 is the latest for your unit
V13 is the latest for your unit
V14 is the latest for your unit
V1 is the latest for your Unit

all the above have the same fix as V10 (the only major fix we released)
if there any firmware update we will announce it


Hmm.. Now I need to pursue more info on this problem with no audio via coax.

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post #829 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bgb27 View Post

Hello,

 I recently purchased an HW-150 PVR and I'm starting to realize it wasn't the solution to my problems.
I'm looking for a device that will output all the channels my TV can receive through coax, except in HDMI. (For use with the Xbox One)

I feel like this crap diagram can explain it better than I can in words.



I'm starting to think the only thing that will do this for me is renting a cable set top box from Cox (my provider)

If there is an alternative please let me know. And if you could educate me on why the HW-150 PVR didn't do the trick, and the differences between QAM, Clear QAM, ATSC, OTA, and all that nonsense I would appreciate it.
OK, I think I see what you're saying. You have cable, and you wanted a cable tuner with an HDMI output to route through your XBox. I assume you loaded QAM firmware onto your Homeworx so you get Cox's clear QAM channels.

The big question is, which channels does your TV get that the Homeworx doesn't get? There are two possibilities:
  1. Encrypted channels (which implies your TV is one of the few that uses a CableCARD). If this is the case, you'd need a CableCARD tuner. Among DVRs, your only hope is TiVo, or a PC with a Ceton or HDHomeRun Prime tuner.
  2. Analog channels. if this is the case, you need an analog tuner with an A/D converter and HDMI output. The PHD-VRX2 would do the job and let you tune analog channels (although it will only record digital ones). If you don't need the ability to record, I believe the PHD-208 will do the job for somewhat less.


One thing to watch out for: with either the Homeworx or the PHD products, the XBox's OneGuide may not work as you expect with cable. Reason is, these boxes show physical (RF) channel and subchannel numbers while the OneGuide shows virtual channel numbers. That means the XBox won't be able to tune your Homeworx or PHD product to the proper channel when you pick a show from the OneGuide. (Tuning analog channels on the PHD products would work, since there are no virtual channel numbers for analog, but tuning digital channels wouldn't work.)

CableCARD tuners such as TiVo or PC tuners won't have this problem since they can pick up Cox's channel map table.
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post #830 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post


OK, I think I see what you're saying. You have cable, and you wanted a cable tuner with an HDMI output to route through your XBox. I assume you loaded QAM firmware onto your Homeworx so you get Cox's clear QAM channels.

The big question is, which channels does your TV get that the Homeworx doesn't get? There are two possibilities:
  1. Encrypted channels (which implies your TV is one of the few that uses a CableCARD). If this is the case, you'd need a CableCARD tuner. Among DVRs, your only hope is TiVo, or a PC with a Ceton or HDHomeRun Prime tuner.
  2. Analog channels. if this is the case, you need an analog tuner with an A/D converter and HDMI output. The PHD-VRX2 would do the job and let you tune analog channels (although it will only record digital ones). If you don't need the ability to record, I believe the PHD-208 will do the job for somewhat less.


Thank you.
I would have to believe it'd be the analog channels. I really only care about ESPN, ESPN2, etc. which are channels I did not receive. Would it be safe to assume those are analog?
My HW-150 PVR did pick up 400 channels, but only one was viewable.


Also, if anyone was looking to give this HW-150 PVR a new loving home, I did post it on amazon under new for 35.99 which is what I paid.

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post #831 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bgb27 View Post

I would have to believe it'd be the analog channels. I really only care about ESPN, ESPN2, etc. which are channels I did not receive. Would it be safe to assume those are analog?
Yes; if they are viewable on your TV without any equipment from Cox (cable set-top box, CableCARD, etc.), but not viewable on the Homeworx, they are most likely analog. If they're viewable on older TVs (the kind with picture tubes instead of flat-panel displays), they are almost certainly analog.
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My HW-150 PVR did pick up 400 channels, but only one was viewable.
Unfortunately the Homeworx channel scan picks up encrypted as well as clear QAM channels. Apparently you have only one clear QAM channel, making the Homeworx pretty useless for your cable system frown.gif

I suggested the PHD products because they will tune both analog and clear QAM, like a typical TV. But since you have only one clear QAM channel, there may be cheaper analog-only tuners with HDMI outputs that would work just as well.

I'm guessing the one that worked was a "barker" channel telling you that you need a cable box or CableCARD to view encrypted channels. If so, you might want to leave a post here to let others know what your Cox branch has done:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475637/are-all-your-qam-channels-scrambled/0_20
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post #832 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 05:03 PM
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After they got more in stock at NewEgg today, I also bought another this afternoon. .....
Chazdole, in addition to today I previously bought two of these from NewEgg a month ago, and the free shipping was great. I received them very fast in prefect shape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chazdole View Post

Cool, that's good to hear. I ordered a Shawshank bluray for $6 something and free shipping from WB Shop, a big company, on Dec. 24th. They still haven't shipped. ...


My new one came already today. Very impressive once again about the service and the FREE shipping on this particular unit from Newegg. I ordered this HW150PVR unit the afternoon of Jan. 13th, and it just came the afternoon of Jan 15th. I am two states away from Newegg. (Newegg is in Southern California, and I am in Seattle, Washington area. Newegg uses OnTrac for shipping between certain nearby states to them.)

As of this time Newegg still shows them in stock, and their $10 off Promo coupon goes through tomorrow Jan. 16th (which is on top of their sale price).
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post #833 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 05:20 PM
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Maybe send them a request for QAM enabled firmware, and the fix will be included in that version? They got back to me within hours when I requested it. At the least, if you have a new working Firmware file, you can maybe play with V14 that some kind soul will send you. That way, if V14 breaks something, you can go back to the version they send you.

Wish they had a way to back up the firmware that is on the unit.

According to the Homeworx forum there is no difference in the firmware between v8, v10, v14. Not sure what or how but they say v8 is the current build.

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post #834 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 06:00 PM
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My new one came from Newegg today, Jan 15th, and it has V13. The two I received from Newegg middle of Dec. both had V14. I don't know what the difference is, if any, between V13 and V14. (If someone can tell me, please do so.)
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post #835 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 06:05 PM
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They have a series of FAQs on their support forums on the topic of the firmware. Read here as they are quite emphatic that all the firmware versions are the same: http://forum.mediasonic.ca/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=1925&sid=2f8a9819f4dd44bbdca67586685a4ed1

v.8, v13, v14 are all identical except for the logo on boot up. They go into it all in case anyone has any questions.

In my case on box has v8 and the other must have v13 or 14 as one box has the logo and the second does not.

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post #836 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattlemark View Post

My new one came from Newegg today, Jan 15th, and it has V13. The two I received from Newegg middle of Dec. both had V14. I don't know what the difference is, if any, between V13 and V14. (If someone can tell me, please do so.)

v14 boxes have a new chip in them but they wouldn't say which chip. If you are so inclined you could open up your boxes and look for the difference.
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post #837 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jprc View Post

v14 boxes have a new chip in them but they wouldn't say which chip. If you are so inclined you could open up your boxes and look for the difference.

Guess I won't do that, at least while the warranties are still in effect. But thanks to your mention of "chip" I searched this thread and found the following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmx View Post

I got an answer to this question directly from Mediasonic tech support:

"V14 is same thing no new fix over V13
only difference is inside the machine with V14 we switched one of the chip to a different brand because the one original used was discontinued
and still same functionality"


This raises the question of whether Mediasonic will have to release two different flavors of every future firmware update, to support boxes with the two different chipsets. And people will have to figure out on their own which flavor their box needs. Sounds to me like a recipe for a clusterf_ck.

At which point Mediasonic replied to jdmx in this thread with the following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by MediasonicEast View Post

No need cause V14 works on V13
but there is no need for people with V13 to must have V14
as it makes no difference, your 150PVR will not gain super powers biggrin.gif

Which has me wondering why Mediasonic released V14, if V13 and V14 are really interchangable?
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post #838 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 07:10 PM
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I believe it is that v14 works on both v13 and v14 boxes but that v13 does not fully work on v14 boxes.
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post #839 of 1683 Old 01-15-2014, 07:55 PM
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I've gone through this before, but it's worth reviewing every so often:

V3 was the firmware my Homeworx originally came with
V10 was the bug-fix version for V3
V8 changed the layout of the Homeworx remote. Several buttons were moved around; the "list" function was combined with "OK," and a "dash" function was added
V13 added back the Homeworx logo dropped in V8 (according to Mediasonic)
V14 was for a hardware change to the box (according to Mediasonic)
V1 was for another hardware change (according to Mediasonic)

Note that the version numbers are not in ascending order. V8 came after V10, and V1 came after V14. (Mediasonic had made all this quite confusing.)

It's not correct that there have been no changes. There have been no fixes or new features since V10, but there have been changes! There'd be no need for new versions if there were no changes!

In addition, we have evidence that there was a hardware change between V10 and V13. The evidence is, applying V13 to my old box (to get the new remote layout) disabled the L/R (analog) audio jacks after cycling power. Chazdole had similar results applying V14 to an iView (presumably the iView has the same hardware as my older Homeworx). We don't yet know whether V8 works with the old (V3/V10) hardware or the new (V13) hardware. I've been looking for a copy of V8 to check this.
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post #840 of 1683 Old 01-16-2014, 07:06 AM
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I have an update. I tested both boxes last night. Both boxes have the v8 firmware on them. My mistake in assuming one had a different version. I tested the coax output on two different units:
  1. Anthem AVM50v pre/pro
  2. Marantz receiver

The Marantz receiver did indeed detect and decode multichannel audio from the Homeworx HW-150PR. I then plugged it into the Anthem. For a brief flicker, 5.1 audio showed up on the Anthem's panel and then nothing and no input detected. As usual, HDMI worked flawlessly.

There are two potential issues here:
  1. The Homeworx is doing something slightly odd with the digital signal
  2. The Anthem has a bug with the signal. However, the Anthem has no problem with other devices.

I wanted to update everyone on those items.

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