Homeworx HW-150PVR, Support and Discussion - Page 57 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 06-13-2015, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Brady Loewen View Post
I received my HW 150PVR today.... When I attached the antenna to the PVR and did the channel search, it seemed to freeze (would not let me quit or skip) and then reset back to the MediaSonic Logo and the channel search option. When I try to manually search, the screen goes black, seems to freeze, and then resets.

Is there anything I can do, or do I just have a bad unit?

This is the info for my box:
Model: HW-150 PVR
SW Version: CL630133 121115 V14
HW Version: 7816-ATSC-03
Sounds like a bad unit. That's a fairly old one: the V14 firmware is dated Nov. 15, 2012 (the date in the SW Version is YYMMDD). Did you buy a used or refurbished model?
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Old 06-21-2015, 02:47 PM
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USB port problems on older HW-150s

Recently I had the misfortune of the USB port going bad on my oldest HW-150. Since it was long out of warranty I decided to take it apart and see what the problem was.

Turns out these old HW-150s have a small PC board with nothing but a USB port on it. The port is held in the front panel with hot glue. There's a rectangular hole in the PC board which matches a plastic "catch" projecting back from the front panel. This catch prevents the USB port from being pushed into the box with too much force. Once the box is opened, though, it's rather easy to remove and reinstall the board containing the port.

The problem with this design is, the USB port rests one or two millimeters above the PC board, and it's easy to flex the port just enough to break some of the foil traces on the PC board when inserting or removing a USB device. If this happens, the USB port will start failing (perhaps intermittently). You may need a good magnifying glass even to see the breaks!

(Note: newer HW-150s have changed the USB port design to reduce the risk of this kind of failure. On HW-150s that came with V14 (dated Nov. 15, 2012) or later, the USB port is attached to the main front panel PC board at right angles, instead of being on its own PC board. This change may explain why Homeworx owners have reported fewer USB port problems than, say, iView owners. I don't have an iView but I suspect their USB port design is similar to the Homeworx's "original" design. OTOH, the original design does allow for much easier "homebrew" modifications; see below.)

For those with broken USB ports like this, a "quick fix" can be made by carefully scraping some of the green insulation off of the broken foil traces with a tiny screwdriver, then bridging the gap with a small amount of solder. Use a "pencil-tip" soldering iron for the easiest repair. However, the problem remains, and each time the traces are broken, it becomes harder to repair this way.

A more permanent fix would be to remove the possibility of damage entirely, by finding a way to remove the troublesome port from the front panel completely, and connecting it to "something" within the box instead. That "something" could be as simple as a USB extension cable, a "built-in" storage device like a USB stick, or even a USB hub. For a hub, you'd need to find an alternate location for its USB ports. If you have some metal-working tools, I might suggest cutting a slot on the right side of the HW-150's cover and mounting the hub so a couple of its ports can be accessed through that slot. Then you'll have an HW-150 with two USB ports!

If you wanted to get really fancy, you could connect the port to a hub, then connect a compatible USB memory stick and/or small cooling fan to the hub! There's actually quite a bit of room inside the HW-150 box for such things, which I suppose could be secured with hot glue.

If anyone owns one of these older HW-150s and has lost use of its USB port, hopefully these observations and suggestions will help.
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:01 AM
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Hi There Is there a remote reset on my 150 remote, not the unit. My remote is not working right. When I try to use the up/down button to get to the file I want, it goes it the wrong direction. Also if I press another button it's not functioning as play and it will just move like the Up/Down button. Anyone ever have that issue?

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Old 07-14-2015, 01:19 PM
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Try removing the batteries and while they are out press every single button on the remote to hopefully reset everything and dissipate any spurious stored electrical charges. You then should be good to go.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Try removing the batteries and while they are out press every single button on the remote to hopefully reset everything and dissipate any spurious stored electrical charges. You then should be good to go.
Nope that did not work. I can't tape anything this sucks.

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Old 07-14-2015, 09:20 PM
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Bummer. I assume you've also tried a brand new set of batteries.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 07-15-2015, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Bummer. I assume you've also tried a brand new set of batteries.
Yes. I sent an email to support. I'll post what they say. Hopefully it can be reset or they can send me a new remote.

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Old 07-15-2015, 10:31 AM
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I don't have the same remote, but you might look to see if in the battery compartment there is a screw which once removed will allow the two halves of the remote to snap apart. If so, you could open it to inspect for a cracked circuit board, a loose connection, or a cold solder joint. Just a thought. Hope they come up with a good solution.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I don't have the same remote, but you might look to see if in the battery compartment there is a screw which once removed will allow the two halves of the remote to snap apart. If so, you could open it to inspect for a cracked circuit board, a loose connection, or a cold solder joint. Just a thought. Hope they come up with a good solution.
There is no screw.

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Old 07-15-2015, 12:13 PM
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I don't understand this guy from support I told him the remote is not working and he's asking me 50 questions. I told him it's not functioning right. Gosh ol' mighty.

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Old 07-15-2015, 02:28 PM
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So after all crap. This is the reply I got:
Unfortunately, your unit is out of one year warranty.
You may purchase a remote here:
http://www.mediasonic.ca/product.php?id=1422902306
Please click red "Click Here" on the bottom, not " Buy Now".

Regard, Vincent Mediasonic Support

Why could he not made me happy and just send me the remote. Last time I give them my money. I guess I'll get the iview.

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Old 07-15-2015, 03:03 PM
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These boxes are cheap. Maybe you should invest in a universal remote before you buy a replacement DVR.
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Old 07-15-2015, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleron Ives View Post
These boxes are cheap. Maybe you should invest in a universal remote before you buy a replacement DVR.
I have a URC-R50 I emailed them to ask. I tried remote to remote programming, but it did not work. Man that dude pissed me off after not understanding that THE REMOTE DOES NOT WORK and keep asking questions. By the way which is the cheapest? Ematic have the same menu?

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Old 07-16-2015, 06:09 AM
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It's weird if I unplug the PVR/take batteries out of remote overnight it works, but in less than an hour it goes back to the remote not working right. Still waiting for URC to answer my email.

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Old 07-17-2015, 01:49 AM
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I wonder if it's the remote that's bad or the box itself? I'd hate to spend even $10 on a new remote and find it had the same problem.

Anyway, if you get a new box, the eMatic is probably the cheapest, as long as you don't need component video or coaxial digital audio. Most folks use either HDMI, or composite video and L/R audio, so the eMatic is fine.

The iView costs slightly more but IMO it has a much better remote than either Homeworx or eMatic. That might be worth an extra $5-10.

Either way, you should be able to plug in the same HDD you're using now and be back in business the day you get it. The remote will be a bit different, but other than that everything should be pretty similar.
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:07 AM
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Thank JH. The only way it works if both are unplugged overnight, then after 10 min. it start acting up. They should have just sent me the remote for free after 10 dang emails back and forth. I've had stuff that warranty expired and the company stepped up.


Last edited by afterlife2; 07-17-2015 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:10 AM
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Anyone know if it has a hard reset to factory settings? I hate to do that but...maybe it will resolve the problem.

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Old 07-17-2015, 08:38 AM
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Well what do you know...the factory reset WORKED!!! Hooray. I'm glad I didn't get the remote. You would have CS would have told me to try this.
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:22 AM
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Well I spoke too soon...crap.

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Old 07-17-2015, 11:12 AM
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JH Is there a player that supports the full file instead of cutting them up? I tried my Sony Bluray Player & Panasonic BD player, VLC and Potplayer and it cuts off after 2 min.

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Old 07-17-2015, 04:02 PM
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That's strange - do you mean you're plugging your HDD into your Blu-Ray players (I guess your players have USB ports) or PC and trying to play the HW recordings?

I've never had trouble doing that on my PC. Even plain-vanilla WMC plays the HW recordings fine.

Makes me wonder if the recordings are corrupted. I'm starting to think the HW starts to malfunction as it warms up, making bad recordings as well as not responding correctly to the remote.

Is your HDD a USB-powered model or is it externally powered?
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
That's strange - do you mean you're plugging your HDD into your Blu-Ray players (I guess your players have USB ports) or PC and trying to play the HW recordings?

I've never had trouble doing that on my PC. Even plain-vanilla WMC plays the HW recordings fine.

Makes me wonder if the recordings are corrupted. I'm starting to think the HW starts to malfunction as it warms up, making bad recordings as well as not responding correctly to the remote.

Is your HDD a USB-powered model or is it externally powered?
It's one of those portable drives. USB powered only. This one: http://www.toshiba.com/us/accessorie...t/HDTC705XK3A1
This is what part of the folder looks like. These are various movies(Cozi) and TV series(1hr or 30 min. each):


This is a sandisc HC 1 (10) 32 gig micro card in a Transcened 3.0 USB drive. This is only a 2 hour finale recording of a fox series, so should be one file correct?:


Last edited by afterlife2; 07-17-2015 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by afterlife2 View Post
It's one of those portable drives. USB powered only. This one: http://www.toshiba.com/us/accessorie...t/HDTC705XK3A1
This is what part of the folder looks like. These are various movies(Cozi) and TV series(1hr or 30 min. each):

This is a sandisc HC 1 (10) 32 gig micro card in a Transcened 3.0 USB drive. This is only a 2 hour finale recording of a fox series, so should be one file correct?:
You don't have it formatted NTFS so it splits up the files. Just change the formatting and it will be one file per recording.
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Old 07-18-2015, 07:12 AM
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You don't have it formatted NTFS so it splits up the files. Just change the formatting and it will be one file per recording.
Thanks. I had a feeling. I think I read here FAT was better, darn I hate to erase what I have, but I may have to...

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Old 07-18-2015, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
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It's one of those portable drives. USB powered only. This one: http://www.toshiba.com/us/accessorie...t/HDTC705XK3A1
Do you have an externally-powered drive you could try? I'm wondering if the extra bit of current drawn by a USB-powered drive may be pushing the HW's power supply over the edge and causing it to overheat, resulting in your symptoms (remote quits working, and possibly corrupted recordings).

If you don't have an externally-powered drive, you could try a powered USB hub, perhaps like this one I found at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMB0LN2

That way you could keep using the drive you use now, without putting any load on the HW power supply.

Regarding FAT vs. NTFS: FAT may have an advantage of less overhead, which could help if you're recording on slower media (like a USB thumb drive). But it will also make your HW break up your recordings into 4GB chunks (about 30 min. each at HD). So unless you're having problems recording to a thumb drive, I'd stick with NTFS.
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Old 07-18-2015, 08:24 PM
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I suspect USB hubs won't work without drivers and I don't think our PVRs are setup to supply drivers to outboard hubs. Instead, a powered USB splitter along the line of a USB "Y cord" with one end plugged to the USB charger port of say a cell phone, like the white cube which Apple supplies with their iphones, might be a better bet.


P.S. I have these on order from monoprice for another application but I thought to try it on my PVR and hard drive too:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2


Oops, I guess I would need another male to male USB to make it work.
Strike that. It injects extra current from the AC adaptor. The second female USB isn't used. Think of it as a powered USB extension cord. I hope the (optional?) "hub" aspect doesn't need drivers.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 07-18-2015 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:14 PM
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I use a USB hub with my HW and no driver is required (although I can't guarantee that's true for every hub).

In fact, interestingly, it lets me hook two HDDs to the HW at once. But you do have to pick C or D, and which HDD is C and which is D is hard to predict in advance. (I just pick C or D randomly, and see which HDD it is.)

But the USB cable you suggest does the job and, if you already have a 5V AC adaptor, is cheaper than the hub I suggested. So thanks!
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:35 PM
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Interesting. So they work with hubs. Good to know. Thank you.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:14 PM
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Thanks for the tip guys. I will look into those. Anyone know if the Ematic AT103B remote will work with the Homeworx? The remotes look very similiar. Thanks.

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Old 07-20-2015, 08:50 PM
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I've never tried it. I doubt it though. at least not without changing the firmware. They have the same functions, but I don't think they use the same codes.

Same problem occurs with the iView remote. All the same functions are there, but the codes are completely different. You have to load iView firmware on the HW to make the iView remote work.

The eMatic remote appears identical to the HW-180 remote, though, so I suspect those are interchangeable.
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