Homeworx HW-150PVR, Support and Discussion - Page 59 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1741 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
It's a pretty simple question. Why not just tell us the answer?
Well simply no issues as I don't let the batteries run low. My Universal UR50 which gets used the most has a battery indicater, so if they are running low I recharge it and the other remotes.

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post #1742 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 11:52 AM
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So this is what the HW remote does any button I press they work as a up and down key, except that only the up button works on every button. Get what I mean?

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post #1743 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by afterlife2 View Post
JH All the batteries I tried are new or rechargables and same result. I tried a couple of remotes other remotes and they all lit up. The HW remote lights up too. Should I order another remote or just give up?

Cool Thanks JH. I'm gonna order that usb for the Ematic. While watching a show the picture froze once while I watched a show maybe this will help.
I've learned to avoid using rechargeable batteries in remote controls. They have a lower voltage than alkaline batteries and sometimes that causes problems. So you might try alkaline batteries in your HW remote just to see if it makes a difference.

It depends on the remote though; some remotes work just fine with rechargeable batteries. I just got tired of trying to keep track of which remotes would work with them and which ones wouldn't.

You might try the powered USB hub with your HW too! Plug it in and see if it goes longer before the remote stops working. If it does, that's a good indication the HW is overheating.

BTW, you've mentioned a couple of intermittent problems with your new eMatic. I hope it's not defective.
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post #1744 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 02:39 PM
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Actually I had alkaline on the remote when it stopped working and put fresh ones and same thing. I've read on amazon that the Ematic freezes, so I was not surprised. I bet it's the USB thing like you said. I have the Ematic standing up so air circulate better on top and underneath. I'm gonna order that USB today. What do you think of the remote only working as the down button only JH. What would cause that?

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post #1745 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 03:58 PM
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The batteries.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #1746 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
The batteries.
But I used new ones same thing.

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post #1747 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 05:01 PM
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Actually I had alkaline on the remote when it stopped working and put fresh ones and same thing.... What do you think of the remote only working as the down button only JH. What would cause that?
Well clearly the HW is misreading the signals from the remote. We don't know, though, whether the remote is sending the wrong signals or the HW is just not reading them correctly.

If the remote never worked right, I could see a short in the keypad causing it to read every button (except "up") as "down" and emit the "down" code. But you've reported that if you don't use it for a couple of days, it works for a while, then fails. This sounds more like an overheating problem, but the remote is battery-operated and always "off" except when you press a button. (Otherwise, our remote batteries would run down in a few days.) So there's nothing in the remote that could "cool down" when you take the batteries out.

Thus, I'm thinking it's more likely the HW itself is overheating. Its power supply is the most likely culprit, but it could be another component like the "system-on-a-chip" too. I'm guessing there's some quirk of the HW firmware that makes "down" a default action if it gets a signal from the remote but doesn't know exactly what it is.

My old LCD TV does something similar: if it gets a remote code it doesn't understand, it's default action is to power off. (Luckily for me it does that when it's cold, not when it's hot, so I can avoid the problem simply by leaving it on.)

If it's the HW power supply overheating, lightening the load would probably help. The easy way is simply to unplug the HDD. Of course then you can't record or play anything, but the idea is simply to see if the remote keeps working, or at least works longer than usual. If so, you'd know it was the HW and that buying a new remote probably wouldn't help.
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post #1748 of 1751 Old 07-29-2015, 07:02 PM
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It's unfortunate some people seem to think batteries have only two states of condition: good [works] and bad [doesn't work] whereas in truth there is an intermediate state of condition where what happens on one day may seem to completly reverse itself after a few hours or on another day.


http://electronics.howstuffworks.com...uestion390.htm

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #1749 of 1751 Old 07-30-2015, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
Well clearly the HW is misreading the signals from the remote. We don't know, though, whether the remote is sending the wrong signals or the HW is just not reading them correctly.

If the remote never worked right, I could see a short in the keypad causing it to read every button (except "up") as "down" and emit the "down" code. But you've reported that if you don't use it for a couple of days, it works for a while, then fails. This sounds more like an overheating problem, but the remote is battery-operated and always "off" except when you press a button. (Otherwise, our remote batteries would run down in a few days.) So there's nothing in the remote that could "cool down" when you take the batteries out.

Thus, I'm thinking it's more likely the HW itself is overheating. Its power supply is the most likely culprit, but it could be another component like the "system-on-a-chip" too. I'm guessing there's some quirk of the HW firmware that makes "down" a default action if it gets a signal from the remote but doesn't know exactly what it is.

My old LCD TV does something similar: if it gets a remote code it doesn't understand, it's default action is to power off. (Luckily for me it does that when it's cold, not when it's hot, so I can avoid the problem simply by leaving it on.)

If it's the HW power supply overheating, lightening the load would probably help. The easy way is simply to unplug the HDD. Of course then you can't record or play anything, but the idea is simply to see if the remote keeps working, or at least works longer than usual. If so, you'd know it was the HW and that buying a new remote probably wouldn't help.
Thanks JH The USB should be here this Saturday or Monday. I will report back. I just wish I had an extra remote to test. I wrote this seller to confirm if this remote woks but never got an answer 4 days later: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221821146121...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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post #1750 of 1751 Unread Yesterday, 01:14 PM
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I'm looking at a Homeworx HW-150 or HW-180 for OTA signals and passing into a Xbox One (cutting cable soon I hope). Does anyone here know which of the two I'd be better off getting? Confused as to the differences, and I'd rather avoid issues off the bat. Similar prices on Amazon.
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post #1751 of 1751 Unread Today, 03:09 PM
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I'm looking at a Homeworx HW-150 or HW-180 for OTA signals and passing into a Xbox One (cutting cable soon I hope). Does anyone here know which of the two I'd be better off getting? Confused as to the differences, and I'd rather avoid issues off the bat. Similar prices on Amazon.
If I were you I'd get the Ematic DVR.
JH I received the USB extender w/AC. I will report back on my findings.

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