Homeworx HW-150PVR, Support and Discussion - Page 63 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 2469 Old 09-27-2015, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanb View Post
QAM works out of the box for 180STB if you have the 10.1 firmware (new 180 boxes since April/May I believe). You need to choose "Cable" in the tuner.
So it does one or the other (ATSC or QAM), not both?

I can set the frequency of the channel the modulator uses, and I have my QAM channel on the same line as my OTA antenna. I was hoping to be able to select any of the channels (OTA and QAM).

I can modulate an ATSC signal as well, and that was my original plan to avoid this issue. The problem is that the quality of the output is worse using ATSC... (or the quality of the ATSC tuner in my TVs is lacking or doesn't get along well with the modulator output... dropped frames, jitter, etc.)
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post #1862 of 2469 Old 09-28-2015, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerryH View Post
So it does one or the other (ATSC or QAM), not both?

I can set the frequency of the channel the modulator uses, and I have my QAM channel on the same line as my OTA antenna. I was hoping to be able to select any of the channels (OTA and QAM).

I can modulate an ATSC signal as well, and that was my original plan to avoid this issue. The problem is that the quality of the output is worse using ATSC... (or the quality of the ATSC tuner in my TVs is lacking or doesn't get along well with the modulator output... dropped frames, jitter, etc.)
Yes you have to choose either "air" (atsc) or "cable" (qam) at a time for tuning. I do not think you can have both.
If you are able to modulate/convert your atsc signal to qam then it may work - not sure if this is even possible.
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post #1863 of 2469 Old 09-28-2015, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanb View Post
Yes you have to choose either "air" (atsc) or "cable" (qam) at a time for tuning. I do not think you can have both.
If you are able to modulate/convert your atsc signal to qam then it may work - not sure if this is even possible.
(Sorry for all of the questions - I just hate buying something and sending it back so I like to be sure before I buy)

How long does it take to switch between ATSC and QAM? Is it an ordeal (e.g., requiring a rescan) or can it be done without too much trouble?
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post #1864 of 2469 Old 09-28-2015, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerryH View Post
(Sorry for all of the questions - I just hate buying something and sending it back so I like to be sure before I buy)

How long does it take to switch between ATSC and QAM? Is it an ordeal (e.g., requiring a rescan) or can it be done without too much trouble?
The switching is just a couple of menu clicks but it is a rescan after that - meaning the previously tuned/stored channels are wiped out and new channels re-scanned.
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post #1865 of 2469 Old 09-28-2015, 05:54 PM
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Hmm... that won't work. The only way around that would be buying two. One for ATSC and the other for QAM.

Thanks for the help!
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post #1866 of 2469 Old 09-28-2015, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerryH View Post
Hmm... that won't work. The only way around that would be buying two. One for ATSC and the other for QAM.

Thanks for the help!
A good idea, it probably won't break you.
I'd just be aware that a lot of cable providers have closed down QAM. I wouldn't put a lot of DVR eggs in that QAM basket(?)
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post #1867 of 2469 Old 09-29-2015, 02:15 PM
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New forum member, first post.

After being a DirecTV customer for the last 20 (?) years, we recently cut the cord and were looking to get some OTA luv as a replacement snd needed a converter box.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread (and the iView 3500 thread) and shared their knowledge on these boxes. I just finished going thru all 1869 posts in this thread.

Spent some time perusing both threads and ultimately decided to go with the HW-150PVR which we picked up @ Micro Center in Mayfield Heights, OH this past Saturday. Spent $50 + $5 for a 2 year replacement, which is a bit pricey ... but SWMBO wanted TV for her days off ... and compared to (ongoing) the monthly sat bill it's a drop in the bucket.

Pretty happy with the unit so far.

I hooked it up to the 40+ (?) year old outdoor antenna on our chimney and was able to pull in over 40 OTA channels (Cleveland/Akron/Canton Ohio metro area) ... quality on most all of them seems quite good (as compared to old analog broadcasts)

The HW-150PVR feeds an old (analog) JVC flat CRT TV, via component cables.

The only thing flakey I've noticed so far is the double (or on some channels, triple) clutching when tuning to a channel.

Haven't tried record anything yet - in the process of trying to clear off a 250GB Hitachi SATA/USB HDD so I can hook it up.

The unit I have is:

SW: April 24 2015 16:33:56 - V4.1

HW: MLG7816-ATSC-V4

Again, thanks to all for sharing.
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post #1868 of 2469 Old 10-05-2015, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanb View Post
The switching is just a couple of menu clicks but it is a rescan after that - meaning the previously tuned/stored channels are wiped out and new channels re-scanned.
Actually, you can store both ATSC and QAM channels in a single box without rescanning, but it's still a PITA. So, given the low cost of these boxes, it probably is best to buy two.

If you do want to share a single box between ATSC and QAM, check out the first five posts of the iView thread. Basically, you connect and set the box to cable, do an auto scan, find and write down the clear QAM channels, then connect and set it to your antenna, do another auto scan, then finally, connect and set it back to cable, and do a manual scan of all the channels you wrote down at the beginning. Then to switch, you have to both switch the RF input and set the box to antenna or cable as appropriate.

It's amazing that it works at all, but unless you just can't afford two boxes, it's probably more trouble than it's worth.
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post #1869 of 2469 Old 10-11-2015, 05:19 AM
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I purchased one of the: HomeWorx HW180STB HDTV Digital Converter Box Media Player & Recording HDMI output : boxes and I am really impressed overall with the product.
I could easily see a few minor interface changes that would make it more user friendly.

But I have one issue: It will not receive the following Wichita, Kansas market station.. I am receiving over a 85% signal on this station on my other TV's.
I am able to pick up other local channels that my TV is not able to!

http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...f1f06c6220eab6

KMTW (Digital) // Channel: 35 (36.1) // Network: MyNetworkTV
Maximum ERP: 1000.000 kW // Coordinates: 37.939734 -97.511986

http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...GITAL2%26n%3d8

Any suggestions?
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post #1870 of 2469 Old 10-11-2015, 06:20 PM
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That sort of question gets asked a lot. I don't have a 180, but I suspect its tuner is similar to the 150. That tuner is pretty good but can be rather finicky at times. So:

  • The first thing I'd try, paradoxically, is attenuating the RF input signal a bit. Weakening the signal by about 6 dB has worked for me with a couple of 150s in different situations. Of course the trade-off is that you may lose other, weaker stations; but not necessarily. It's worth a try at least.
  • If that doesn't help, the problem may be multipath. If so, you may be able to clear it up by reorienting your antenna. Remember, you're not aiming for the strongest signal, but rather the cleanest. Again, you may lose other stations in the process. Hopefully you can find a compromise that works for all the stations you care about.

If those suggestions don't help, post back with more info: what kind of antenna do you have; how far from the station are you, are you using an amp, that sort of thing.
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post #1871 of 2469 Old 10-28-2015, 05:22 PM
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Hi everyone. Seems my Homeworx died or had a stroke or something. Bought it almost 2 years ago to hook up to the Xbox One. It was working fine last night, turned the One on today and no TV signal. Thought it might be a problem with the One especially since I'm on NXOE. Tried rebooting both, still the same issue. Switched the HDMI to a different TV input, got the same result. The only thing I see is the intro screen for the HW. Remote does nothing. Checked the batteries to make sure they weren't dead. Just wondering if there was something else I might have missed or can try? I see there's another solution, the Hauppauge TV tuner for the Xbox.
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post #1872 of 2469 Old 10-28-2015, 08:53 PM
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Often the capacitors go bad on a one-two year old unit. If you have some solder skill, you and open the box and look for bulging capacitors. Usually just one. Unsolder the bad one, solder in a new one. I resurrected two boxes by replacing a capacitor.

Some have the power supply die, that may be more complicated to fix.
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PDP-6010FD, VSX1123K, HW-150PVR, Snell E111 Mains, Polk Center, VTF3Mk4 Sub, DIY surrounds, HD XA2, DMR HS2, DV F27, HR21-200, TH-50PH9UK, VSP-1100, PSW200... some other stuff.
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post #1873 of 2469 Old 11-26-2015, 07:53 PM
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Wow - it's been a while since this thread's been touched!

I have an update on the USB port problem I posted about a few months ago. If your USB port stops working, you may be able to fix it depending on how old your Homeworx is. My oldest one had the USB port mounted on a tiny circuit board (about the size of a postage stamp) which was hot-glued to the front panel. It was easy to pull that out for repair. It turned out that flexing the port by plugging and unplugging USB cables had broken the circuit board traces, and I was able to repair it by bridging the breaks with solder.

Unfortunately, that fix didn't last: the traces eventually broke again. So, the second time I went for a more permanent fix. I desoldered the USB port from the circuit board, cut off the 4-conductor cable connecting the circuit board to the HW's main board, and soldered the cable's four wires directly to the USB port. However, the 4-conductor cable was then too short for the USB port to reach all the way to the front panel.

I could have finished the fix with just a short USB extension cable, and that's probably the easiest fix; but instead I got fancy: I went to Fry's and found the smallest, cheapest USB hub I could, which in my case was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817205011. (It actually cost me $6 at Fry's; Newegg's price is a bit higher at $9.) I plugged that into the USB port inside the Homeworx and ran the first of the hub's full-size ports to the front panel. Then I plugged a USB extension cable into the front panel to hold that port in place. (I could probably hot-glue it to make this fix somewhat permanent, but for now I'll just remember not to unplug the extension.)

I then connected the second of the hub's ports to a PNY Attache 64GB thumb drive which I'd tested with the Homeworx earlier. I was able to just barely fit the hub and thumb drive inside the Homeworx.

Now I have a Homeworx with a 64GB internal drive, and I can still plug a HDD into the extension cable. Because of the ports I used, if I plug in a HDD, the HDD is C and the thumb drive is D; if I don't plug in a HDD, the thumb drive is C. So the Homeworx always defaults to the external HDD if one's plugged in, but I can still select the thumb drive inside if I want to watch something I recorded on it earlier.

I'm explaining all this because it occurs to me that Mediasonic (or iView or any of the other clones) could easily design a box, with everything I crammed into mine, already built onto the main circuit board, and sell it for around $70. They wouldn't even need to change one byte of the firmware! I think it might sell, because you wouldn't need to buy an HDD to use the HW's time-shift, record, and playback functions - but you still could if you wanted. Also, there's a fall-back drive inside if you ever mess up and have left your external drive unplugged when a recording starts.

The only drawback I've found is that, without a firmware change, anything recorded on the internal flash drive is "trapped" there, with no way to copy it to an external HDD. But, hey; Channel Master's DVR+ has the same drawback.

Of course the DVR+ is in another league with two tuners, an Internet-provided two-week program guide, and apps for Internet-based TV. But I wasn't trying to turn my Homeworx into a DVR+ - just to turn the lemon of a broken USB port into a little lemonade, in the form of the extra convenience of not needing to bring along an HDD if I take my HW on a trip.
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post #1874 of 2469 Old 11-28-2015, 05:07 PM
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Hey all,

I got a 150 a bit ago and got around to unpacking it today. It seems as if there are a fair number of things that require you to fire it up to discover how to set it up. I started reading the thread from the beginning, but its too epic. I'd read later parts earlier. Any tips or tricks for a first time user and a guy who sometimes misses the obvious would be appreciated.

I probably get around 40 channels and there are about 25 that I would ever watch, so I thought I would manually set up the channels.

I'm assuming in the instance that i would want to watch one show and record another, I could set up the 150 to record and then switch the input on the TV and use its tuner.

I've got a 1TB Touro 2.5" usb drive which comes formatted for Windows. I assume the 150 can reformat it to whatever is needed.

Is there a sequence to setting it up?

I'm guessing most of it will become obvious as I dive in, but again, any tips appreciated.
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post #1875 of 2469 Old 11-28-2015, 05:07 PM
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Hey all,

I got a 150 a bit ago and got around to unpacking it today. It seems as if there are a fair number of things that require you to fire it up to discover how to set it up. I started reading the thread from the beginning, but its too epic. I'd read later parts earlier. Any tips or tricks for a first time user and a guy who sometimes misses the obvious would be appreciated.

I probably get around 40 channels and there are about 25 that I would ever watch, so I thought I would manually set up the channels.

I'm assuming in the instance that i would want to watch one show and record another, I could set up the 150 to record and then switch the input on the TV and use its tuner.

I've got a 1TB Touro 2.5" usb drive which comes formatted for Windows. I assume the 150 can reformat it to whatever is needed.

Is there a sequence to setting it up?

I'm guessing most of it will become obvious as I dive in, but again, any tips appreciated.
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post #1876 of 2469 Old 11-28-2015, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetsam View Post
Hey all,

I got a 150 a bit ago and got around to unpacking it today. It seems as if there are a fair number of things that require you to fire it up to discover how to set it up. I started reading the thread from the beginning, but its too epic. I'd read later parts earlier. Any tips or tricks for a first time user and a guy who sometimes misses the obvious would be appreciated.

I probably get around 40 channels and there are about 25 that I would ever watch, so I thought I would manually set up the channels.

I'm assuming in the instance that i would want to watch one show and record another, I could set up the 150 to record and then switch the input on the TV and use its tuner.

I've got a 1TB Touro 2.5" usb drive which comes formatted for Windows. I assume the 150 can reformat it to whatever is needed.

Is there a sequence to setting it up?

I'm guessing most of it will become obvious as I dive in, but again, any tips appreciated.
No reason to wait to set it up. The unit is easy to factory reset through the menu and a reset only take a minute. So if you decide you want to start over from scratch for some reason, you can do that very quickly.

As far as the channels go, I assume you are talking about OTA channels. If that's the case, you may want to actually first do an automatic scan for two reasons. One is so that you know for certain what channels you are capable of receiving and two is so that you know which channel/frequency to manually search when you do a manual scan. It may or may not be mapped differently than what you are expecting.

Once you do an automatic scan and write down the above (if it is different from what you are expecting), you can then reset it and do a manual scan. Is is possible to delete channels as well, if you wanted to just do an auto scan. But there are bugs that sometimes bring the deleted channels back. So if you don't want to deal with that, it is best to do manual searches like you were intending.

As for watching a different channel on your TV, you will need to either make sure the modulation setting in the menu is set to passthrough or loopthrough (I no longer have a box so I forget which word they use) or you can use a splitter. I don't know how old your homeworx is or what software is on it, so it's possible your passthrough won't work and you will need to use a splitter anyway. But you can try it first and see. If it doesn't work, don't waste time on and go get a splitter.

Make sure the daylight savings and time zone is set correctly and be aware that it does not automatically correct itself when the time change occurs, so you have to set it twice a year.

You will want to use NTFS formatting for the drive. Your drive is likely already formatted that way, but you can check. If you use Fat32, you will not see any difference while it is attached to the homeworx. But if you attach it to your computer to save or play the files, each program will be broken up into small files. It will be one file per program with NTFS formatting.
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post #1877 of 2469 Old 11-28-2015, 07:09 PM
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Is is possible to delete channels as well, if you wanted to just do an auto scan. But there are bugs that sometimes bring the deleted channels back.

As for watching a different channel on your TV, you will need to either make sure the modulation setting in the menu is set to loopthrough or you can use a splitter. I don't know how old your homeworx is or what software is on it, so it's possible your passthrough won't work and you will need to use a splitter anyway. But you can try it first and see. If it doesn't work, don't waste time on and go get a splitter.

If you use Fat32, you will not see any difference while it is attached to the homeworx. But if you attach it to your computer to save or play the files, each program will be broken up into small files. It will be one file per program with NTFS formatting.
All good points. Some extra comments:

If you delete all subchannels on a given frequency, they won't come back (unless you do a manual scan of that frequency). But if you only delete some subchannels, they will sometimes come back when you tune to a subchannel that you kept. There's not much you can do about that; it's just a quirk you have to live with.

The loopthrough function works, but adds some noise to the RF signal. It's not really noticeable on analog signals (only relevant for cable/home video distribution nowadays) but it can really mess up weak digital ones. So if you use loopthrough, you may find your TV can't pick up all the channels you want. For that reason I usually recommend using a splitter or a 6dB tap. A tap works better if some of your signals are so strong the Homeworx's tuner gets overloaded. Hook the Homeworx to the -6dB output and the TV to the -1dB output.

The FAT32 file system has a limit of 4GB per file. That's fine for most SD shows and sometimes even 30-minute HD shows, but longer HD shows will get broken up into multiple files as described.
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post #1878 of 2469 Old 12-04-2015, 07:53 AM
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This External Drive Solved My HW-150PVR Problems

Tried it over the last couple years with several different external drives. None worked correctly all the time. Programs would get lost, recordings were corrupt. I always suspected a USB power/identification problem.

Finally tried this external powered drive and so far it works flawlessly. The drive detects when the USB becomes active and then powers up the drive fully.

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-FreeAg.../dp/B000ND93DE

YMMV.
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post #1879 of 2469 Old 12-04-2015, 11:26 AM
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It's true. The HW-150PVR's power supply doesn't, well, supply a lot of power. Anything beyond a little 2.5" drive will probably overtax it - and sometimes even a little 2.5" drive will overtax it too! Often it will work for a while, then stop - I assume due to overheating.

If overheating is the problem, the obvious solution is a fan, and they do make thin, quiet fans that will fit (just barely) within the HW-150PVR's case. But fans draw power too, and with so little power to start with, it's not clear that putting one in would help more than it hurts. (Besides, you'd have to open the case to install one, voiding any warranty.)

So the best solution is probably an HDD or USB hub with its own external power supply, as the above poster discovered; or at least a Y cable that lets you turn your USB-powered HDD into an externally-powered one.
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post #1880 of 2469 Old 12-04-2015, 03:09 PM
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Good info, but can anyone recommend a product still being made?
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post #1881 of 2469 Old 12-04-2015, 08:37 PM
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Well, you could try this. I just plugged the 4TB model into my HW and it is compatible. You may prefer a smaller size for your HW, though; luckily it also comes in 2TB and 3TB sizes.
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post #1882 of 2469 Old 12-04-2015, 09:27 PM
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Is it certain that even a fast USB stick doesn't allow for full functionality? (As in with USB stick you can record or play back, just not both at the same time.)
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post #1883 of 2469 Old 12-04-2015, 09:45 PM
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Well, the HW doesn't support recording while playing back a different recording with any device. It does support recording while playing back the file you're recording (sometimes called chase-play), though.

I haven't tried chase-play with a USB stick, so I can't say for sure whether it would work. But I'd think if the USB stick is fast enough to record, it should be fast enough for chase-play. With a USB stick, recording is by far the slower of the two operations.

I've had decent luck with a PNY Turbo Attache 64GB USB 3.0 stick. Others have reported problems, though. It's probably best to get a USB stick at a local store, so you can easily exchange or return it if you find it's too slow. (I didn't follow my own advice, but I guess I got lucky.)
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post #1884 of 2469 Old 12-06-2015, 08:42 PM
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Ah, okay. Considering my recording habits, chase play is about all I need.
I figured I'd test with a USB stick for awhile before sinking money into a dedicated external HDD.
I seem to remember some mention of stuttering when using USB flash to play/record simultaneously. There are many inferior sticks out there so it probably varies.
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post #1885 of 2469 Old 12-29-2015, 12:03 PM
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Hi all. My neighbour asked me to find out what I can about how well this homeworx pvr 150 works as he was going to buy one. they are very reasonably priced. The puzzle though is that the local store is selling boxes labelled with v2.0 firmware.Yet on the support pages I see all sorts of versions from v1 to v13 and maybe more. Whats up with all that? Is the v2.0 an old dog of a clearance special that the store is not owning up to? What is the cleanest most bug free firmware he should hunt around for?

He was all set to buy a channelmaster dvr until he stumbled upon this one. at a price difference of 1/8 to 1/10 the homeworx is hard to ignore if it actually works.
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post #1886 of 2469 Old 12-29-2015, 12:41 PM
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You have to go by the date, not the version number. There is no logical sequence to Homeworx firmware version numbers.

I have a Homeworx with v2.0 and it's dated "Dec 27 2014," which would make it one of the newer versions. This version fixes a couple of long-standing bugs and makes a reasonable purchase.

Regarding Homeworx vs. Channel Master, I own both. It doesn't have to be an either/or.

  • The Homeworx is typically $40 vs. $250 for the CM. If you add $50 for a HDD, that works out to about $90 vs. $300, so the CM costs over three times as much.
  • The Homeworx makes it much easier to transfer recordings to a Windows PC and can play music, photos, and video from a Windows PC.
  • OTOH, the CM has two tuners vs. one for the Homeworx, so it can record two shows at once.
  • The HW firmware has more bugs than the DVR+ firmware, although a couple have been fixed in the most recent version. I've compiled a reasonably complete list of HW firmware bugs here.
  • Also, the CM provides a two-week program guide via the Internet. The HW only gives you a day at most.
  • And the CM has some other nice features, like recording shows by name, Internet video apps, etc.

Last edited by JHBrandt; 12-31-2015 at 07:01 PM.
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post #1887 of 2469 Old 12-29-2015, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eastavin View Post
Hi all. My neighbour asked me to find out what I can about how well this homeworx pvr 150 works as he was going to buy one. they are very reasonably priced. The puzzle though is that the local store is selling boxes labelled with v2.0 firmware.Yet on the support pages I see all sorts of versions from v1 to v13 and maybe more. Whats up with all that? Is the v2.0 an old dog of a clearance special that the store is not owning up to? What is the cleanest most bug free firmware he should hunt around for?

He was all set to buy a channelmaster dvr until he stumbled upon this one. at a price difference of 1/8 to 1/10 the homeworx is hard to ignore if it actually works.
If it's a local store he's buying it from, then it should be easy to return if he doesn't like it (unless it's one of those "all sales are final" deals). So, if it does what he is looking for, then I'd say, why not try it out before making a more expensive purchase. These cheap boxes are not for people who like the bells and whistles and there are some annoying things about them, so it depends on the person and their wants and needs whether it's a good buy. Some people find the price makes up for its shortcomings and some people decide the extra money is worth a better experience.

I don't know what your neighbor's tolerance is for buggy software. If he's the kind of guy that will get pissed if his show doesn't always get recorded, this is not the box to rely on. It works most of the time, but there will be occasions when if the reception is off for a moment, or even for no apparent reason, it may just not record or it may stop recording in the middle. Of course glitches can happen with any electronics but they happen more often on these PVRs than usual. I'm not saying it happens a lot, just that it's not recommended for someone who is going to have their week ruined if the game doesn't record or they miss their favorite show.

There is also no internal clock on the device, so it relies on your stations sending the correct time - hopefully not an issue where you live, but a few of my stations were off by 3 to 18 minutes and I was only able to get one station to fix their clock. You manually set the recording times but if you are recording another show on another channel right before or after, there will be a conflict if the clocks aren't the same. Also, the interface is not modern, and although it's not difficult to use, if he's the kind of person that couldn't (or didn't want to) program a VCR, it's probably not for him.

However, it is a cheap way to record and timeshift OTA TV. Even if he decided after trying it to get a more expensive device, he may want to keep it for a backup or as an additional tuner. If he can get it someplace local with a return policy then I'd say go for it, and then he'll know for sure and won't have to wonder if he overpaid for another device.

Like JHBrandt said, the version numbers are not in chronological order so 13 is not necessarily better or more recent than 2. There are also several different versions of the same box (same model number) that only accept certain firmware. The good news is that most of the firmware on most of the boxes functions the same. It's only the very first firmware of the first box that had some major bugs that were fixed. FW after that didn't have any major fixes, although the latest box and FW did fix the CC playback on recordings if he needs that.
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post #1888 of 2469 Old 12-30-2015, 08:10 AM
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IMHO, jprc did a fine job of describing the 150 PVR. Regarding:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jprc View Post
...
I don't know what your neighbor's tolerance is for buggy software. If he's the kind of guy that will get pissed if his show doesn't always get recorded, this is not the box to rely on. It works most of the time, but there will be occasions when if the reception is off for a moment, or even for no apparent reason, it may just not record or it may stop recording in the middle....
I found that even very short losses of signal (e.g. plane flying over or lightning in the distance) would cause the PVR to stop when playing the video. In these instances it wasn't that it didn't record but that the PVR thought the recording was thru when the hiccup hit and would stop. If I played the same exact recording on my PC (moved HDD to PC) recording would play past those signal glitches.

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post #1889 of 2469 Old 01-15-2016, 06:17 AM
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Cheat! Get yourself a USB 2 Y cable, buy a cheap (6$-ish) 0.5amp AC to USB adapter, plug the spare one onto it, then the data cable (has 2 wires on it) into the Homeworx, should work fine. If you find it doesn't work, keep the bill for the 0.5amp AC to USB and go get a 1A one, that *will* make it fire up because combined you're giving it ~1.25A to play with, if the external drive can't run on that, then you really need to find a replacement for that power hog, but yes, the Homeworx doesn't have great USB power, their port is the typical 250mA that is necessary for standard hub pairs (500mA for the pair).

As for the heat issue, not sure why you're having it, my sister's doesn't seem to heat up that much after an hour of playing off their usb stick, though due to it being plastic, it's possible it's receiving heat transfer from whatever you have above or below it? Is it alone or enclosed in a cabinet?

GuruSR.
Thanks for that info. Actually, I've made the same suggestion for others who have trouble with not enough power to their USB-powered HDDs.

My "vision" for this one was to get everything installed within the box, and to have the fan run only when the HW was on. (It's not loud but does make a little noise.) That's why I tried to power it from the HW's own port.

I suppose the ideal answer would be a powered USB hub, provided the hub's power supply could be safely wired to the 120V input power within the HW's box somehow, and provided it switched power to its USB ports based on whether power was supplied to its input port. Possible, I suppose; but it sounds like a very tight fit.

As for overheating, I've found you can't always tell by feeling the outside of the box. It was only after I opened it up (initially, to try to repair its USB port) that I noticed some components could get pretty hot, and thought a fan might improve things.
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post #1890 of 2469 Old 01-15-2016, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
Thanks for that info. Actually, I've made the same suggestion for others who have trouble with not enough power to their USB-powered HDDs.

My "vision" for this one was to get everything installed within the box, and to have the fan run only when the HW was on. (It's not loud but does make a little noise.) That's why I tried to power it from the HW's own port.

I suppose the ideal answer would be a powered USB hub, provided the hub's power supply could be safely wired to the 120V input power within the HW's box somehow, and provided it switched power to its USB ports based on whether power was supplied to its input port. Possible, I suppose; but it sounds like a very tight fit.

As for overheating, I've found you can't always tell by feeling the outside of the box. It was only after I opened it up (initially, to try to repair its USB port) that I noticed some components could get pretty hot, and thought a fan might improve things.
Not sure if this will help, as I don't know the internals of the Homeworx, though, try looking at a "heatsink kit" for older PCs, they typically will have small sleeve bearing fans, also small video card replacement fan kits may also be of help. You may have better luck looking at electronic component stores to find items that may be best suited for that unit, although my sister's unit isn't having this issue with heat. I know the USB is a bit of a pain issue, but hers doesn't seem to get hot, I checked it after it was playing a show for an hour, was moderate. Any idea how hot it is getting? Too hot to touch or comfortably warm?

GuruSR.
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