About a week ago I started to experience pixelation and audio cutouts with the Panny combo I use for trolling PBS. It's a fairly elaborate setup with a DST51a, 3 HD1000's and a JVC DH30000 all connected together with an Orange Micro hub. I started unplugging stuff and narrowed the problem down to the DST51. I did the proper checks, tried fresh cables, different recorders, etc., and found that the problem always came back after the 51 was on for about 2 or 3 hours. I replaced it with another 51 and took it to my lab (the living room floor), where I treated it to what I call "Slap It Around".
The procedure is very simple: break and remake every connection in the box. It's a technique commonly used to fix computers. Reseating boards and chips will result in repair about half the time. The other half the time the problem will be a bad hard drive, power supply, or cooling fan. Older computers were more susceptible to connection problems because they used more connectors, ran hotter, and used a lot of socketed dual-inline chips with tin plated pins.
Well guess what!!http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif
The Panny boxes have no hard drives, and they have lots of connectors. They also run hot, and use socketed dual-inline chips with tin plated leads. From that I'd guess that a good slapping around will fix way more than half these things.
Enough salesmanship. Now for the disclaimer. There's NO GUARENTEE this will fix your box. It's just the most likely thing to fix it, and it worked in my case. If you are a real klutz you could do more harm than good, but I think most of the people here (except one) can handle this with success, or at least do no harm.
The box I fixed was a late model 51. In the process I took it completely apart and photographed both sides of the motherboard. Since then I noticed that several people were having problems with their DST50's, so I opened one of them as well. I did not, however, fix the 50, since it was working fine to start with. I also opened another 51, and got a real surprise, which I'll explain later.
Because several folks here are having problems with 50's I'll start with that first.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...hoto1-51tn.jpg Enlarge
Clear a clean spot on the bench, or floor, or whatever. As shown, you'll need a Phillips screw driver, a chip puller, a large paper clip, and a small crescent wrench or box wrench. The 3-1/2 pound axe may not be necessary in all cases.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...B/photo2tn.jpg enlarge
Remove the 5 screws holding the top. Lift the rear of the top and slid back and off. If your box is a 50 the lid has an inner shield that fits pretty snugly against conductive foam strips on the chassis sides, so expect some resistance as you slid the lid off. It helps to flair the sides of the lid as you take off.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...hoto3-50tn.jpg enlarge
If your box is a DST50 then this is what you will see inside. The inner lid with the fan is next to be removed.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...oto4a-50tn.jpg big http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...oto4b-50tn.jpg bighttp://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...B/photo5tn.jpg big
Remove the 3 screws holding the inner lid. Also unplug the fan connector. You need strong fingernails or a chip puller to do it.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...B/photo6tn.jpg big
The inner lid is attached to the back panel with a piece of copper tape. You can peel it off and restick it later, or you can hinge the inner lid up and prop it or have someone hold it.
I've reached the image maximum per post so...
to be continued
Analog -- Always out of adjustment.
Digital -- Always one more bug