DirecTV HD DVR - HR20/HR21/HR22/HR23 Master Topic - Page 199 - AVS Forum
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post #5941 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drbonbi View Post

As reported here:



Dana

That's not really what he said. He said he doesn't really know but he thinks maybe later this year or early next year.

Here are the actual questions that were asked and the answer if you want to read it.
http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.ph...59#post2446359
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post #5942 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post

Manuals get printed long before that hardware seems to get released.
In my HR20-700 manual, there is a statement about pulling the power cord for 3 mins to allow the "protection circuits" to reset.

My three listed above are the best from both DirecTV engineering and my own work with many other users in our weekly test group chatroom.

Whether you want to follow them or not really doesn't matter [to me].

I seem to remember where the red button or pulling the power
cord could possibly crash the heads on the disk platters (not good)
and only used if nothing else works.
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post #5943 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickff View Post

I wonder if putting the DVR into standby (the "Power" button on the front) is related to pinkie... We used to leave the DVR in the bedroom "on" all the time, but my wife recently has gotten annoyed with the bright blue lights and starting turning them off at night. About the same time we started seeing pinkie more often.

This could be the problem as turning the items on and off, and which order they get turned on/off can effect the HDMI handshake.

I would say try leaving it on all the time again and see if the problem stops happening. I believe if you hold down the left arrow on the front of the box and then hit the right arrow a few times you can dim the blue lights on the front a few shades and even turn them off. I may have this mixed up a little though. I'm sure VOS knows the correct procedure if I'm mistaken.
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post #5944 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickff View Post

I wonder if putting the DVR into standby (the "Power" button on the front) is related to pinkie... We used to leave the DVR in the bedroom "on" all the time, but my wife recently has gotten annoyed with the bright blue lights and starting turning them off at night. About the same time we started seeing pinkie more often.

Kind of doubt it, since I turn mine "off" every night & simply power cycling [with on/off] doesn't resolve the problem.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5945 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerstalker View Post

This could be the problem as turning the items on and off, and which order they get turned on/off can effect the HDMI handshake.

I would say try leaving it on all the time again and see if the problem stops happening. I believe if you hold down the left arrow on the front of the box and then hit the right arrow a few times you can dim the blue lights on the front a few shades and even turn them off. I may have this mixed up a little though. I'm sure VOS knows the correct procedure if I'm mistaken.

You don't seem to be mistaken. Pressing both <> arrows on the front panel [three times dims and the fourth turns them off].
This doesn't seem to work when tuned to a active [interactive] channel.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5946 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahull View Post

I seem to remember where the red button or pulling the power
cord could possibly crash the heads on the disk platters (not good)
and only used if nothing else works.

"The cord" shouldn't cause a head crash "if" you leave it out long enough to have the drive spin down completely.
#1 is the menu reset.
If this doesn't work [you're locked out], your only options are either the RBR or the power cord.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5947 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerstalker View Post

This could be the problem as turning the items on and off, and which order they get turned on/off can effect the HDMI handshake.

I'm not sure this is a HDMI issues because one of my times this happened was using component. Not exactly sure where is comes from, but seems to be a bit higher up the food chain/tree. Maybe a chip gets the wrong voltage and this only gets resolved with the reset.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5948 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 09:35 AM
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Seems like you can now buy a leased HR24:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...Receivers&sku=

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5949 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerstalker View Post

This could be the problem as turning the items on and off, and which order they get turned on/off can effect the HDMI handshake.

I would say try leaving it on all the time again and see if the problem stops happening. I believe if you hold down the left arrow on the front of the box and then hit the right arrow a few times you can dim the blue lights on the front a few shades and even turn them off. I may have this mixed up a little though. I'm sure VOS knows the correct procedure if I'm mistaken.

I think the left, right arrows only turn off the bright blue light of blindness and not the other blue lights on the front. Those can also be quite bright in an all dark room.

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post #5950 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickff View Post

I think the left, right arrows only turn off the bright blue light of blindness and not the other blue lights on the front. Those can also be quite bright in an all dark room.

"You think" correctly, and even if you dim them or turn them off, if the DVR reboots, they come back on bright again.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5951 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post

"You think" correctly, and even if you dim them or turn them off, if the DVR reboots, they come back on bright again.

VOS,

I am interested in obtaining and HR24 for the basement. If I "purchase" one from Solid Signal, I assume it is still a leased-unit and I would have to return it if I cancel my service.

How does this work when the unit is "purchased" from Solid Signal? Do I return it to them or DirecTV? Does my protection plan cover the unit? Is it a simple connect and call activation? Is there an advantage to ordering one from DirecTV when they make them available?

Thanks in advance.

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post #5952 of 5970 Old 05-07-2010, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickff View Post

VOS,

I am interested in obtaining and HR24 for the basement. If I "purchase" one from Solid Signal, I assume it is still a leased-unit and I would have to return it if I cancel my service.

How does this work when the unit is "purchased" from Solid Signal? Do I return it to them or DirecTV? Does my protection plan cover the unit? Is it a simple connect and call activation? Is there an advantage to ordering one from DirecTV when they make them available?

Thanks in advance.

The link VOS provided indicates that it is a leased unit and has to be returned to DirecTV, not to them. From the link.
  • This is a LEASED Receiver, Please read below under Specifications to find out more
  • Activated receivers cannot be returned to Solid Signal and must be handled by DIRECTV

The only advantage to buying from SS is that you know you will get an HR24 vs. getting whatever is on the installers truck if you order from DirecTV. If you have the cableing and the right sat dish, it should be plug and play. If not, you'll pay for the install and the new sat dish. Not sure if SS can arrange that but you can do that part thru DirecTV.
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post #5953 of 5970 Old 05-10-2010, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post

Seems like you can now buy a leased HR24:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...Receivers&sku=

FWIW, Smuuth has started a new thread specifically for the HR24 here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1246133 Kindly continue discussions of the new model in the new thread.

Thanks

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post #5954 of 5970 Old 05-10-2010, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDon View Post

FWIW, Smuuth has started a new thread specifically for the HR24 here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1246133 Kindly continue discussions of the new model in the new thread.

Thanks

This thread may have run its course too by now, as I doubt anyone is going to go back to the early posts and read them.

Here's hoping the new thread will turn into a helpful thread for all DirecTV HD receivers and multi-room viewing.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5955 of 5970 Old 05-10-2010, 08:56 PM
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Hello,

I looked at the Solid Signal website for the HR24. There were some other items shown, particularly the in-line amplifiers for "long cable runs". I have several questions if possible. If there are other threads where these should be taken, I appreciate even that info. I did do a search, but no luck.

First, my setup. I have two HD DVRs: HR20 and HR21. I have a wired network. I have a SWM-8. MRV and DirecTV2PC all work basically flawlessly. I get a fair amount of picture breakup/pixelation/or whatever it is, and I think this is due to my long cable run of 150-160 feet from the dish (on the roof of the barn) to the house where the SWM-8 is located.

I saw several in-line amplifiers on the Solid Signal website. Do they work and would they help me? If so, would I put 4 of them between the dish and the SWM or one after the SWM?

Should I move the SWM out to the barn and just have one wire into the house (well, two, since I use the SD output also)? Again, which side of the SWM should I put the amp, or amps, assuming they "work"? Does it matter where in a long run the amp is located?

I live in Wisconsin and for the components that I can find specs on, none would supposedly be able to withstand our 30 below winters and the 100+ summer temps inside the barn. They would be dry however.

So that's my questions based on seeing the amps on the website that I went to for the HR24.

As to the HR24, will I have issues with DirecTV getting it "activated"? I would at the same time de-activate one of the other two (one is leased and one I own.)

Any help with these questions, even if it is where to take the question(s), would be most appreciated.
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post #5956 of 5970 Old 05-10-2010, 09:10 PM
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So you've only given half of your cable lengths.
That much distance between the dish & the SWM8 is a lot.
One option would be this: http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...mplifiers&sku=
Connect this before your SWM to overcome the cable loss to the SWM.

You might want to try one of these between the amp and the dish to keep the LNBs powered:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...0Supplies&sku=

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5957 of 5970 Old 05-10-2010, 10:41 PM
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Thanks. I'll check the links in the am. Meantime the distance from the swm8 to the TVs is another 50 ft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post

So you've only given half of your cable length
That much distance between the dish & the SWM8 is a lot.
One option would be this: http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...mplifiers&sku=
Connect this before your SWM to overcome the cable loss to the SWM.

You might want to try one of these between the amp and the dish to keep the LNBs powered:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...0Supplies&sku=

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post #5958 of 5970 Old 05-15-2010, 06:24 PM
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Has D* released their cox networking yet, or the single line to two tuners (multiplexing?)yet?
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post #5959 of 5970 Old 05-15-2010, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by keithl1967 View Post

Has D* released their cox networking yet, or the single line to two tuners (multiplexing?)yet?

I take it to mean you're asking about coax (vs. cox). Yes, SWiM (Single Wire Module) has been out for a while now, and all new HD receiver installs will get SWiM technology. They've also release last Thursday their Connected Home and Multi Room Viewing features for national release.
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post #5960 of 5970 Old 05-15-2010, 10:55 PM
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OK, I looked at these and of course have a few questions.

So I do away with the PI I currently use and go with the one you showed? Is this because the amp doesn't powerpass?

Also, the dish that the PI in your link works with is listed as the AT9. I have a Slimline 5, but I found a comment that they are the same, functionally.

If I move the SWM8 out by the dish, would I use a different amp than the multi cable one you advise?

And, finally, do you know of anybody that has actually used these and improved a "long run"?



Quote:
Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post

So you've only given half of your cable lengths.
That much distance between the dish & the SWM8 is a lot.
One option would be this: http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...mplifiers&sku=
Connect this before your SWM to overcome the cable loss to the SWM.

You might want to try one of these between the amp and the dish to keep the LNBs powered:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...0Supplies&sku=

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post #5961 of 5970 Old 05-16-2010, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

OK, I looked at these and of course have a few questions.

So I do away with the PI I currently use and go with the one you showed? Is this because the amp doesn't powerpass?

Also, the dish that the PI in your link works with is listed as the AT9. I have a Slimline 5, but I found a comment that they are the same, functionally.

If I move the SWM8 out by the dish, would I use a different amp than the multi cable one you advise?

And, finally, do you know of anybody that has actually used these and improved a "long run"?

Your current PI is for the SWM8, and you still need it.
If you moved the SWM8 out/closer to the dish, then you'd want to use a different Sonora amp which works with a single coax SWiM.
The amps have a gain that matches just about the loss of your 150' of cable, so "if" the cable losses are what your problem is, "then" the amp would be the right thing.
If you move the SWM8 to the barn, then I wouldn't add the Sonora polarity locker as the SWM8 does the same thing.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5962 of 5970 Old 05-16-2010, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post

Your current PI is for the SWM8, and you still need it.
If you moved the SWM8 out/closer to the dish, then you'd want to use a different Sonora amp which works with a single coax SWiM.
The amps have a gain that matches just about the loss of your 150' of cable, so "if" the cable losses are what your problem is, "then" the amp would be the right thing.
If you move the SWM8 to the barn, then I wouldn't add the Sonora polarity locker as the SWM8 does the same thing.

Thank you.

I do run an old SD TiVo box off my SWM, so I was thinking I would use two of the four coax runs from the barn. Is there an amp that will do that (assuming I need a twofer.)

Your comment about "if" my problem is cable losses are very much on my mind. I ran the tests of signal strengths for the various sats and from a post of yours I believe, VOS, 99c and 103c are the key HD satellites. For 99c the range was 76 to 91 with an average of just a little below 84. For 103c the range was 82 to 91 with an average of 87.5.

The 99s was low and 103s even lower with a lot of zeros and some twenties. High of 61.

I don't know if my dish is misaligned, if my long cable run is a problem, or if the some of the cables were compromised by the kid that ran over them with a tractor awhile back. Or could be a splitter issue.

So I ordered one of the new DirecTV approved ones that works from 2-2150 and works with my SWM8 (oh, and a new HR24, woot! Maybe THAT will help.)

I need to pay more attention to what channels the pixelation happens on to see if that would be a specific satellite (thinking that might imply an alignment issue.)

Or maybe I should just get a service call. I'm just nervous that they would show up and look at my SWM8 and say WHAT IS THIS??? They were here a year or two ago and had never heard of the SWM. (Not to mention the HR24 in a few days... heh.)
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post #5963 of 5970 Old 05-16-2010, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Thank you.

I do run an old SD TiVo box off my SWM, so I was thinking I would use two of the four coax runs from the barn. Is there an amp that will do that (assuming I need a twofer.)

Your comment about "if" my problem is cable losses are very much on my mind. I ran the tests of signal strengths for the various sats and from a post of yours I believe, VOS, 99c and 103c are the key HD satellites. For 99c the range was 76 to 91 with an average of just a little below 84. For 103c the range was 82 to 91 with an average of 87.5.

The 99s was low and 103s even lower with a lot of zeros and some twenties. High of 61.

I don't know if my dish is misaligned, if my long cable run is a problem, or if the some of the cables were compromised by the kid that ran over them with a tractor awhile back. Or could be a splitter issue.

So I ordered one of the new DirecTV approved ones that works from 2-2150 and works with my SWM8 (oh, and a new HR24, woot! Maybe THAT will help.)

I need to pay more attention to what channels the pixelation happens on to see if that would be a specific satellite (thinking that might imply an alignment issue.)

Or maybe I should just get a service call. I'm just nervous that they would show up and look at my SWM8 and say WHAT IS THIS??? They were here a year or two ago and had never heard of the SWM. (Not to mention the HR24 in a few days... heh.)

Your levels/numbers don't look that bad. Tweaking the dish might get you "some more", but this might only be 5 points or so.
The dish to SWM length "they want" to be around 45', but many have used them up to 100'. You're pushing it even farther "but" the SWM's output is controlled to -30 dBm. What this means to you is... if the dish outputs -15 dBm [and short cables] the SWM attenuates this to -30 dBm. As the signals drop below -30 dBm input, the SWM adds gain to keep the output at -30 dBm. This keeps happening until the input drops below -45 dBm, at which point the SWM has reached max gain and any further drop of the input causes a drop in output.
So what does this mean to you?
Your long cables have about -14 dB of loss [-15 dBm from the dish - 14 dB = SWM input @ -30 dBm] and the SWM is barely adding any gain yet [if any].
Clouds/light rain will drop your dish levels and the gain will overcome about half of what it would do if you had short cables, but is this what your problem is? You're getting rainfade with the slightest rain?
If you move the SWM to the barn, then the SWM output of -30 dBm, then drops though the cables to about -45 dBm before the losses of the splitter and house cabling. The receivers want a level of -54 dBm, which doesn't leave much between the splitter input to them.
Before you start spending your cash, look hard at what the problem is first.
Move the SWM8 to the barn, would require amps for both the SWM & maybe the legacy ports too [this last I'm not yet sure].
So you might be spending $100-200 on amps, but maybe they won't cure what you have working now.
Maybe PM me with "ALL" your cabling lengths, splitters, etc. and I can make some "general calculations" of your signal levels.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5964 of 5970 Old 05-17-2010, 07:46 AM
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OR I could get a device that actually measures what's going g on. Saw something like thar at solid signal. Need to go look.

Quote:
Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post

Your levels/numbers don't look that bad. Tweaking the dish might get you "some more", but this might only be 5 points or so.
The dish to SWM length "they want" to be around 45', but many have used them up to 100'. You're pushing it even farther "but" the SWM's output is controlled to -30 dBm. What this means to you is... if the dish outputs -15 dBm [and short cables] the SWM attenuates this to -30 dBm. As the signals drop below -30 dBm input, the SWM adds gain to keep the output at -30 dBm. This keeps happening until the input drops below -45 dBm, at which point the SWM has reached max gain and any further drop of the input causes a drop in output.
So what does this mean to you?
Your long cables have about -14 dB of loss [-15 dBm from the dish - 14 dB = SWM input @ -30 dBm] and the SWM is barely adding any gain yet [if any].
Clouds/light rain will drop your dish levels and the gain will overcome about half of what it would do if you had short cables, but is this what your problem is? You're getting rainfade with the slightest rain?
If you move the SWM to the barn, then the SWM output of -30 dBm, then drops though the cables to about -45 dBm before the losses of the splitter and house cabling. The receivers want a level of -54 dBm, which doesn't leave much between the splitter input to them.
Before you start spending your cash, look hard at what the problem is first.
Move the SWM8 to the barn, would require amps for both the SWM & maybe the legacy ports too [this last I'm not yet sure].
So you might be spending $100-200 on amps, but maybe they won't cure what you have working now.
Maybe PM me with "ALL" your cabling lengths, splitters, etc. and I can make some "general calculations" of your signal levels.

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post #5965 of 5970 Old 05-17-2010, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

OR I could get a device that actually measures what's going g on. Saw something like thar at solid signal. Need to go look.

Using a meter that is measuring RF, instead of bit-error-rate [like the receiver], is the best and looking at the CNR is just as important.
Sounds like either getting a service call and having the tech measure these and maybe tweak the dish, or getting the meter and doing this yourself.

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5966 of 5970 Old 05-17-2010, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rad View Post

I take it to mean you're asking about coax (vs. cox). Yes, SWiM (Single Wire Module) has been out for a while now, and all new HD receiver installs will get SWiM technology. They've also release last Thursday their Connected Home and Multi Room Viewing features for national release.

yes, I did mean Coax...
Is their "connected home/multi-room viewing" a software download (my newest softeware is dated 3/9/10), or do I have to call and have hardware installed to make this operational?

Also, If I wish to add a third DVR, using sWiM, how can I make the run on my own off of a dish that currently has all 4 coax outputs occupied by two DVR's in the house?
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post #5967 of 5970 Old 05-17-2010, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by keithl1967 View Post

yes, I did mean Coax...
Is their "connected home/multi-room viewing" a software download (my newest softeware is dated 3/9/10), or do I have to call and have hardware installed to make this operational?

Also, If I wish to add a third DVR, using sWiM, how can I make the run on my own off of a dish that currently has all 4 coax outputs occupied by two DVR's in the house?

You have the software now for MRV, the connected home is a hardware upgrade.

We're moving all of this over to a new thread here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18612234

A.K.A. VOS
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post #5968 of 5970 Old 05-17-2010, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithl1967 View Post

yes, I did mean Coax...
Is their "connected home/multi-room viewing" a software download (my newest softeware is dated 3/9/10), or do I have to call and have hardware installed to make this operational?

Also, If I wish to add a third DVR, using sWiM, how can I make the run on my own off of a dish that currently has all 4 coax outputs occupied by two DVR's in the house?

Multiroom Viewing is a software feature which that software hase. If your receivers are connected to your ethernet network now if you go into the settings menu there is a Multi Room option where you can enable the feature during the beta that ends Thursday. After Thursday it's a chargable feature, $3/month for the account.

If you want to get a SWiM setup AND MRV, probably the best wat to do it is to call DirecTV and tell them you want "Connected Home" and MRV and a 3rd HD DVR. For $99+$49 installation charge they'll come out and switch you over to SWiM setup and provide DECA adapters which use the same coax line as the satellite signal to network your receivers. And depening on how long/good a customer you are they might offer you that other HD DVR for $99 vs. the usual $199.

I recommend you review some of the threads in http://www.dbstalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=137 which has a bunch of info on MRV and Connected Home.
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post #5969 of 5970 Old 05-17-2010, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rad View Post

Multiroom Viewing is a software feature which that software hase. If your receivers are connected to your ethernet network now if you go into the settings menu there is a Multi Room option where you can enable the feature during the beta that ends Thursday. After Thursday it's a chargable feature, $3/month for the account.

If you want to get a SWiM setup AND MRV, probably the best wat to do it is to call DirecTV and tell them you want "Connected Home" and MRV and a 3rd HD DVR. For $99+$49 installation charge they'll come out and switch you over to SWiM setup and provide DECA adapters which use the same coax line as the satellite signal to network your receivers. And depening on how long/good a customer you are they might offer you that other HD DVR for $99 vs. the usual $199.

I recommend you review some of the threads in http://www.dbstalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=137 which has a bunch of info on MRV and Connected Home.

what will i do with my 2 existing hd dvdrs? I guess for 2 TVS, I would need only one HD DVDR?

Will one HD DVDR will be no charge as far as monthly fee is concerned?
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post #5970 of 5970 Old 05-17-2010, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by veryoldschool View Post


We're moving all of this over to a new thread here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18612234

^^^

please use link to new thread

Thanks
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