Official AVS Motorola DCX series HD DVR Topic! - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 4779 Old 07-27-2009, 01:52 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George-O View Post

Would my cable company (Comcast) let me use my own DCX-3200 units?

You'd still have to rent a CableCARD to make it work, and since Motorola has made it clear that they refuse to sell these boxes to the general public, you can be relatively sure there will be a search, first, to see if your box is stolen.
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post #272 of 4779 Old 07-27-2009, 06:34 AM
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I searched for 16:9 and widescreen (WS) and didn't find what I'm looking for:

Does the DCX series output full/natural 16:9/WS video over its Composite and S-Video outputs, like to a DVD recorder, or is it like all other Motos, letterboxed only?
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post #273 of 4779 Old 07-27-2009, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

I searched for 16:9 and widescreen (WS) and didn't find what I'm looking for:

Does the DCX series output full/natural 16:9/WS video over its Composite and S-Video outputs, like to a DVD recorder, or is it like all other Motos, letterboxed only?

Ooooh I'd love to know the answer to this as well. Since I turned in my DVR and downgraded cable this summer, I use the composite video output from my HDTV(which is active when you use the TV's tuner), and whatya know it outputs full anamorphic WS!! No letterbox!!!! For live recording of network OTA I will use this from now on instead of a Moto DVR box, when I get one again this fall.
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post #274 of 4779 Old 07-27-2009, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastzipperus View Post

Do you have a DCX3200 or seen them in the Comcast offices?

when i went in to the local office to swap my old DCT box for a 3400, the lady behind the counter initially tried to give me a 3200 (she missed the fact that i was trying to replace a unit with a *DVR* ). so i have seen one, in a comcast office, with my own eyes. it was much smaller and as noted elsewhere had no clock or any other kind of meaningful display on the front.

http://www.motorola.com/business/v/i...008406b00aRCRD
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post #275 of 4779 Old 07-27-2009, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fastzipperus View Post

Out there as in subscribers are currently using them or Comcast is currently testing them but haven't released them to the public yet? Do you have a DCX3200 or seen them in the Comcast offices?

Yes they're both out in the wild in customers houses. Depends on the area though on what's available where.

Just my 2¢
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post #276 of 4779 Old 07-27-2009, 02:22 PM
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I noticed there is an external IR input on the rear of the unit. I have a SlingBox and wanted to see if it were possible to wire it so that the IR output on that goes to the input on the DCX3400. Anyone know?
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post #277 of 4779 Old 07-29-2009, 07:47 PM
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You know, I had a Comcast/Motorola DVR back in 05 for about a year before replacing it with a TiVO HD and then for the last few years a Dish 622/722, and from time to time I check in on these forums to see if it's time to switch back. It blows me away that the same bugs and problems from 4 years ago are still unfixed in their latest generation of boxes. With no new features in their software (Web/iPhone scheduling? External HDs? Folders?), and very few unfixed bugs, unreliable recording, and poor support of HDMI, why does Comcast still use these awful boxes?

I use a Dish DVR now. It runs almost perfectly - about as close to an appliance as you can get. Same with my old TiVO HD (although the cable card technology introduced some flakiness from time to time). I'd really like to come back to Comcast since rain fade (however minor) just pisses me off, but their technology is just so lame compared to Dish and even DirecTV.

Does anyone know if there's a new Comcastic platform in the works anytime soon that ditches these horrible Motorola boxes once and for all?
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post #278 of 4779 Old 07-29-2009, 10:24 PM
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You can wire your slingbox directly into the IR port on the back and it will respond to commands. I don't notice a large difference between directly wiring it and using the mouse emitters.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wangsdeli View Post

I noticed there is an external IR input on the rear of the unit. I have a SlingBox and wanted to see if it were possible to wire it so that the IR output on that goes to the input on the DCX3400. Anyone know?

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post #279 of 4779 Old 08-01-2009, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattw22 View Post

You can wire your slingbox directly into the IR port on the back and it will respond to commands. I don't notice a large difference between directly wiring it and using the mouse emitters.

Any advice on type of cable (mono vs stereo) used for that IR input? I'm unable to have any success with my URC repeater.
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post #280 of 4779 Old 08-02-2009, 09:48 PM
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My box will either freeze or drops the picture about every other day when switching through channels/resolutions in native mode - whether I'm running component or HDMI. Is this normal?

I don't have this issue if I disable native mode.

I've got a DCX3400 running
S/W version: 75.59
Firmware: 22.31
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post #281 of 4779 Old 08-02-2009, 09:52 PM
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i vote no, not normal, but i would advise you check first to see if you can reproduce the problem on a different display. it's not immediately obvious the DCX is doing anything wrong. your set just might not be handling the resync occasionally.
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post #282 of 4779 Old 08-02-2009, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch437 View Post

i vote no, not normal, but i would advise you check first to see if you can reproduce the problem on a different display. it's not immediately obvious the DCX is doing anything wrong. your set just might not be handling the resync occasionally.

Good idea, hopefully I can get my hands on another display soon.

The last time this happened, the picture went black, but the audio and Comcast info guide worked fine. Another time it happened, I just changed the channel and that fixed it. Usually the STB just completely freezes and requires a power cycle.
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post #283 of 4779 Old 08-02-2009, 10:31 PM
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My DCX drops the picture occasionally. Sometimes when I turn on the set after a night of recording stuff. (I'm connected by component, not HDMI). I have to turn to another channel, or start playing back a recorded program, and then go back to the original channel to get it back again. I don't think it's related to my TV, since by doing what I do, I can get it back. On one occasion, I had to turn the DCX off, not power off, just the remote off, and I recovered the video after turning back on. That was the last resort, so far.
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post #284 of 4779 Old 08-03-2009, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crossbeaux View Post

My DCX drops the picture occasionally. Sometimes when I turn on the set after a night of recording stuff. (I'm connected by component, not HDMI). I have to turn to another channel, or start playing back a recorded program, and then go back to the original channel to get it back again. I don't think it's related to my TV, since by doing what I do, I can get it back.

I've gone through a few DVR's with these same symptoms. 3 different models actually (DCT, DCH & the new DCX). Easy enough fix like you said I just change the channel but it's a little annoying. It happens to me a couple times a week. I think it originally started happening around the time I had the Tivo software on the Moto box last year (just for time reference, the long gone Tivo has no effect on my current box). Mine is also hooked up via component. No one I've talked to in Comcast has ever heard of this (I know what you're thinking, "of course they haven't"), so that leads me to believe Moto has no plans to fix it.

Just my 2¢
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post #285 of 4779 Old 08-03-2009, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rxp19 View Post

My box will either freeze or drops the picture about every other day when switching through channels/resolutions in native mode - whether I'm running component or HDMI. Is this normal?

I don't have this issue if I disable native mode.

When I got my DCX box I tried the Native mode but didn't end up keeping it turned on. I'm not big on having the flicker between my TV switching between SD & HD content as it is. With Native enabled it not only does that but also does it when switching between 720P & 1080i content. I didn't notice a big enough difference in pic quality to keep that headache. I just went back to my old settings of 1080i with override set to 480i & I can flip through the HD channels without disruption (well with the exception of that damn SD weather channel on 845 that's for some reason always been there!).

Just my 2¢
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post #286 of 4779 Old 08-03-2009, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rxp19 View Post

My box will either freeze or drops the picture about every other day when switching through channels/resolutions in native mode - whether I'm running component or HDMI. Is this normal?

I don't have this issue if I disable native mode.

I've got a DCX3400 running
S/W version: 75.59
Firmware: 22.31

These symptoms are commonplace for 22.31 and the workaround that the others describe is the best course to fix it. In Denver, Comcast has pushed out v22.35 and I have not had a single issue with this HDMI handshake stuff ever since.

The DCX box is vastly superior for my system over the DCT 3416 that I used to have. I have a nice TV and I want it to process the signals (deinterlace and upscale). Native is perfect for this. I also want my TV to convert from YCC to RGB. The wierd greenline bug that is apparent in the DCT boxes when using "dot by dot" modes in 1080 panels was prohibiting that. Not an issue with the DCX.
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post #287 of 4779 Old 08-03-2009, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhassle View Post

These symptoms are commonplace for 22.31 and the workaround that the others describe is the best course to fix it. In Denver, Comcast has pushed out v22.35 and I have not had a single issue with this HDMI handshake stuff ever since.

The DCX box is vastly superior for my system over the DCT 3416 that I used to have. I have a nice TV and I want it to process the signals (deinterlace and upscale). Native is perfect for this. I also want my TV to convert from YCC to RGB. The wierd greenline bug that is apparent in the DCT boxes when using "dot by dot" modes in 1080 panels was prohibiting that. Not an issue with the DCX.

does anyone know when time warner cable north texas will deploy 22.35 to their DCX3432's?
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post #288 of 4779 Old 08-03-2009, 08:47 PM
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switching back and forth between the SD and HD version of the same show i finally got my box to have a handshake issue with the rest of my video chain. had to power cycle my other gear- power cycling the DCX did not clear the condition. anyways, fine now. still running 22.31.
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post #289 of 4779 Old 08-03-2009, 09:18 PM
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just for fun tried adapting the re - authorization / rull reset procedure at http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_...ola_DVR/Resets but couldn't get past the first (ok, second) step, ie couldn't figure out how to hold down power and menu buttons at the same time in any meaningful way that the DVR would recognize. these newfangled buttons just seem to work differently than the old style buttons.
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post #290 of 4779 Old 08-04-2009, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch437 View Post

just for fun tried adapting the re - authorization / rull reset procedure at http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_...ola_DVR/Resets but couldn't get past the first (ok, second) step, ie couldn't figure out how to hold down power and menu buttons at the same time in any meaningful way that the DVR would recognize. these newfangled buttons just seem to work differently than the old style buttons.

I too tried this and I could not get it into boot mode. Anyone know how to accomplish this?

I don't need to, now that I have the updated firmware.
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post #291 of 4779 Old 08-05-2009, 09:58 AM
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I just picked up the DCX3400, which I'm running via HDMI to my Samsung HP-S5053. The Samsung is a 768 native display, so I've always struggled with the question of whether to run the cable box output at 720p or 1080i.

With my old DCH3416 box, I had to choose one or the other so I did some research and saw that most people felt that it's (at least theoretically) better to let the cable box output at 720p and then have the TV upconvert to 768p, as opposed to setting the output at 1080i, which means that the TV has to deinterlace the signal and downscale it to 768p.

Anyway, now that I've got the option of choosing the Native mode on the new DCX3400, I'm wondering how to configue the output to my display. Should I just leave it at 720p as I did before or select Native and check off 1080i and 720p only?

Even though I'm relatively savvy at this kind of thing, I must admit that I still find this issue to be confusing. Any definitive answers would be most appreciated.
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post #292 of 4779 Old 08-05-2009, 12:58 PM
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in a sense, nothing is different with the new option: for 1080i source content, you still have to decide if you prefer the set top box's deinterlacing or your display's deinterlacing.

if you like the way the STB does it, choose 720p. if your display does a better job, choose native.

note the above also applies to 480i source content as well. (you may or may not find the results of your comparison are the same, ie one device may do better than the other for HD but worse for SD.) if the display is generally better at deinterlacing than the STB, it's not out of the question that you may want to leave the 480i output option selected in the STB.

what you area looking for when evaluating deinterlacing performance is *motion* resolution, ie how sharp does moving material look. anyone can avoid combing and jaggies, but to do it well (without just line-doubling or low-pass filtering the crap out of it and losing detail) is hard.
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post #293 of 4779 Old 08-05-2009, 02:32 PM
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OK, so if I understand you correctly, all the Native mode essentially does is allows the box to switch automatically back and forth between the various resolutions that you check off depending on the resolution being broadcast.

For some reason, I vaguely remember reading that the Samsung plasmas use a less than ideal method of deinterlacing, so that's probably why I chose to have my DCH3416 do the deinterlacing. I guess I'll just leave it set at 720p with 4:3 override set to "Stretch" (to avoid burn in from vertical letterboxing with SD content).

Any more info would be great. Thanks!
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post #294 of 4779 Old 08-05-2009, 02:46 PM
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Stretch,

I just re-read your comment about SD programming and something else occurred to me. If I decide that I prefer to not have my display deinterlace 1080i content but I find that I like the way the display upconverts 480i and 480p (i.e. SD programming) to 720p (actually 768p to be more precise), should I choose "native" and check only 720p and 480i and 480p?

Asking it another way, is there any practical difference between selecting 720p vs. selecting native with 720p checked off (not checking 1080i or 1080p)?
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post #295 of 4779 Old 08-05-2009, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheVehicle View Post

Stretch,

I just re-read your comment about SD programming and something else occurred to me. If I decide that I prefer to not have my display deinterlace 1080i content but I find that I like the way the display upconverts 480i and 480p (i.e. SD programming) to 720p (actually 768p to be more precise), should I choose "native" and check only 720p and 480i and 480p?

normally if you allow 720p *and* 480i as supported resolutions then yes, there is a subtle difference: selecting 720p will cause the box to output 720p all the time, even when the input is 480i. selecting native will cause the box to output 480i when the input is 480i (and output 720p for any HD content).

note your TV may not actually accept 480i over HDMI - in that case you would defintiely uncheck 480i, which leaves 480p as an option: in this scenario, the STB deinterlaces and the TV scales (actually i should say signal is scaled *only* once, by the TV, since with a 1366x768 display format, all signals are always scaled *at least* once along the way to the glass unless you have a computer or video processor or something in the chain). scaling no more than once is generally good.

i just tested and found when viewing native 480i content with "native" mode selected but 480i support deselected , the STB will attempt the closest match ie 480p (not any of the remaining supported HD resolutions eg 720p).

Quote:


Asking it another way, is there any practical difference between selecting 720p vs. selecting native with 720p checked off (not checking 1080i or 1080p)?

as written, this is a slightly different question: if you *only* select 720p as an allowed output resolution, then no, it seems like there would be no difference between native and 720p since you are forcing 720p out for all input resolutions either way. but maybe that's not really what you were asking about.

not sure how you determined the samsung's deinterlacing is no good. if it is actually worse than the STB, then yes, just go native with 720p and 480p support selected.
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post #296 of 4779 Old 08-05-2009, 05:04 PM
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one last thought- all of the rambling so far has been with an eye towards minimizing the number of signal processing steps that often (but not always) degrade picture quality.

there are other more practical reasons why a person *not* totally preoccupied with picture quality might want to just output everything at 720p and forget about it: specifically, you will be able to change channels much more quickly this way. having to do a HDCP handshake / HDMI resync every time you change between channels that have different formats usually starts to get pretty annoying for all but the true videophile.

Plus there's always the inherent appeal of simplicity. All other things being equivalent, choose the least complex configuration...
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post #297 of 4779 Old 08-06-2009, 07:18 AM
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Stretch,

Thank you again for taking the time to provide me with such useful information. I played around with the settings last night and quickly discovered what you warned me about--my TV won't accept 480i over HDMI.

I decided to run a rudimentary comparison test by choosing a high-quality 1080i broadcast and paused the image. Then I switched back and forth between 1080i and 720p on the front of the box and looked carefully for any differences. There is no doubt that, with my display, 720p is much better than 1080i. 720p produces much smoother diagnol lines and lettering. So, after all that, I wound up where I started by just setting it at 720p (i.e., not Native).
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post #298 of 4779 Old 08-06-2009, 07:35 AM
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cool. have fun testing.

i still say that comparisons are best done on moving material. the way the "pause" feature works can vary from device to device, but if i understand what the DCX is doing correctly, it grabs one field and doubles the lines to have a full frame to display during pause. this would look jaggy even if the box does an ok job deinterlacing while playing content normally.

so once again i say if you really want to get a feel for how the deinterlacing works, you simply have to watch moving content.

as a helpful aid, note the DVR feature always records content to the hard drive in its original native format. so a good test would be to record a 1080i show and compare playing back the *same show* at 1080i vs playing it back at 720p. get very specific. better to really look at a tiny corner of the screen for a 5-second clip than to just sit back and "watch TV" for 5 minutes. pick a scene with a clearly defined foreground object moving against a static background. look *carefully* at any diagonal edges of the moving object. also check for detail generally, eg pupils of people's eyes should be as sharp as possible for instance.
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post #299 of 4779 Old 08-07-2009, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheVehicle View Post

I decided to run a rudimentary comparison test by choosing a high-quality 1080i broadcast and paused the image. Then I switched back and forth between 1080i and 720p on the front of the box and looked carefully for any differences. There is no doubt that, with my display, 720p is much better than 1080i. 720p produces much smoother diagnol lines and lettering. So, after all that, I wound up where I started by just setting it at 720p (i.e., not Native).

Interesting. I have a Samsung plasma (1024x768) and I run 1080i because it looks so much sharper and crisp. It's an HPT-4254 model. Not sure what TV you have but the scalers are most likely different generations.

The opposite of that however is that if it's a 720p channel, the image looks more crisp in 720p. But since the majority of HD networks are 1080i, thats what mine's set to. I have a DCH however so I can't choose Native, otherwise I would.
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post #300 of 4779 Old 08-07-2009, 08:26 AM
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when you pause your DCH (using 1080i out) does it not look jaggy and crappy?

i think if you were comparing settings based solely on how they handle the "pause" command you would choose 720p.
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