Since so many of us have had failures of the iLink jack on the Panny boxes, it seems appropriate to dedicate a thread to the repair process. I've attempted to direct this to those folks who don't wield a soldering iron on a routine basis. If you've never done any soldering, it might be a good idea to do a little reading on the subject before attempting this.
This describes the replacement of the firewire connector on the PV-HD1000 and the TU-DST50/51. The photos here are for the HD1000. Replacing the jack on the 50 or 51 is a bit more difficult. Refer to this
for info on disassembling those units.
You will need the following stuff:
1) an iLink jack (#VJJ0568) from http://www.pasc.panasonic.com/epartr/
. Other brands can be made to work, but this one fits the board exactly.
2) A good soldering iron. They call them Soldering Stations if they're more than 40 bucks or so. Some typical choices would the Weller WES50 or WLC100. Fancier stuff will work too. If you have a $500 Hako rework station you probably don't need my help.
3) Solder wick. This is fine copper braid that is designed to suck up solder. It comes in small spools and you'll find it at Fry's and other such places.
4) Resin core solder (60/40 tin/lead), and Kester solder paste.
5) A small vice to hold the circuit board.
6) If your eyes are as bad as mine you'll need an illuminated magnifier or something similar.
7) A long (12") Phillips screw driver, or a right-angle Phillips screw driver.
8) A can of resin solvent or alcohol and a hogs hair brush.
Start by unplugging the HD1000 and removing the top. It's held by two screws in the back and two from the bottom.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_.../ilink-1tn.jpgzoom http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_.../ilink-2tn.jpgzoom
The iLink jack is mounted on a small circuit board that's attached to the back panel by two screws. Start by unplugging the tiny inline connector that carries the signal on to the digital board. Use your fingernails to hook under the flange on the connector and rock it out of the socket.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_.../ilink-3tn.jpgzoom http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_.../ilink-4tn.jpgzoom
Use the long Phillips screw driver to remove the screws. Note there is a grounding lug under the left screw.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_.../ilink-5tn.jpgzoom http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...solder-1tn.jpgzoom http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...solder-2tn.jpgzoom
Stick the circuit board in the vice as shown. Warm up the iron and clean the tip on a wet sponge and dip in solder paste. The second photo shows the desoldering process using the solder wick. Normally you'd hold the wick while you're soaking up solder, but I had to hold the camera. Just lay the wick against the side of the soldered pin and place the tip of the iron against it. As it heats it will draw the solder completely off the pin and circuit board. Keep trimming the solder-soaked end of the wick back as you go. A little solder paste on the wick will help the process. There are a total of 4 signal pins and 4 ground pins to clean. The jack will easily come off when all the pins are clean.http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...solder-1tn.jpgzoom http://home.earthlink.net/~rogercc/_...solder-2tn.jpgzoom
Soldering the new jack in place is easier than the desoldering. Insert the new jack on the board and position it over the jaw of the vice so that it stays in place. Clean the iron tip again and lean it against each pin such that it touches both the circuit board and the pin equally. Touch some solder to the junction. It will flow and form a fillet than encloses the pin. When finished it should look like the last photo. Use a small trimmed hogs hair brush and some resin solvent or alcohol to clean things up. Don't let any solvent get inside the jack.
Reinstall in the recorder. Don't forget the grounding lug under the left screw.