2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cadiman26 View Post

I can in fact tell you that it does control the brightness of the led's based on the brightness of the scene. It's a little transparent, and what it does is brighten up to full brightness if you have even a medium to bright scene.. IF you have a darker scene, that is when it lowers the level of the LEDs.. I keep mine set at medium, and this choice is plenty bright for me.. One of the other things I have noticed is that it REALLY helps the black levels compared to the 5087 I had. The 5087 did do the auto tracking. I noticed it in standard and dynamic mode, but in movie mode, the LED's were left on in one power level (and killed the black levels)..

I wonder, what setting do you think would prolong the life of the LED's in the TV? Anyone have any opinions on this (like 60,00 hours isn't enough already)??

I leave mine on medium too. To reduce the effect of the contrast at night yet be plenty bright in daylight in windowed room I use a daylight florescent light light as a back light and it really reduces nighttime eye strain (cheap and dirty but it works). While not the same thing they have used LEDs on instrument panels for years running 24/7. A lower setting would reduce temperature the killer of electronics.
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post #452 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 09:23 AM
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I've been checking around and have not been able to get an answer to this question. Could someone please tell me where the inputs are located on these sets? I was told that the inputs are on both the center of the back and also on the side. Then I was told they are only on the side, but I don't know which side? I think I am going to have a problem routing cables if the inputs are only on one side, and that side happens to be on the opposite side of where I keep my electronics. Seems to make more sense to have the inputs centered on the rear so cables can be routed to either side. Thanks for any input.

Jeff
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post #453 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by slamduncan View Post

thanks prophetizer.. I'll give that a try.. I guess I dumbly just turned it off and on with the same input source... I'll change it to watch dvd and turn it off and see if when I choose watch television I get the problem you describe !

sd


this is only the top delay, and only matters when u turn the tv on, but since u said 28000, i know which delay u changed. there are other delays for when the tv is already on and switching sources, but that works great as default
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post #454 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 10:24 AM
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On the 67 inch the inputs are on the right hand side (if you're facing the television)
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post #455 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by slamduncan View Post

On the 67 inch the inputs are on the right hand side (if you're facing the television)

Hmm. Does that cause problems for anyone else? My equipment will be in a cabinet that is located to the left as you face the set. I really don't want to move the cabinet so I may have to get longer cables. I'm going to be wall mounting with the DLP-2 mounts. It's going to be tough to hide the cables.

Jeff
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post #456 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 11:36 AM
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I have my stuff in a stand on the left side.. xbox/wii/dvd player .. depending how close it is you may not need longer cables becuase though the inputs are on the one side its the 'base' of the tv (best way to describe it) so it may not be as far as you think..

admittedly I did have to order a couple of longer cables that arrived in 2.5 days from monoprice (and I'm in toronto !)
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post #457 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadiman26 View Post

I can in fact tell you that it does control the brightness of the led's based on the brightness of the scene. It's a little transparent, and what it does is brighten up to full brightness if you have even a medium to bright scene.. IF you have a darker scene, that is when it lowers the level of the LEDs.. I keep mine set at medium, and this choice is plenty bright for me.. One of the other things I have noticed is that it REALLY helps the black levels compared to the 5087 I had. The 5087 did do the auto tracking. I noticed it in standard and dynamic mode, but in movie mode, the LED's were left on in one power level (and killed the black levels)..

I wonder, what setting do you think would prolong the life of the LED's in the TV? Anyone have any opinions on this (like 60,00 hours isn't enough already)??

Just curious...What FW version do you have on your set? I have 1005.3. Maybe operation of the Auto LED control varies one FW rev to another.

Would have been nice if Samsung made the signal tracking mode selectable by level. For me, the Max setting that is the basis of Auto on my unit is way WAY too bright in my room.
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post #458 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 12:43 PM
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So... how does everyone feel about professional ISF calibration? I have never looked into such a thing, but I would really like to make my set look as good as possible. I have heard pretty well respected people say that comparitively this set (61A750) looks AWESOME out of the box, so I wondered if people thought it was worth it or not. Any thoughts/experiences??
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post #459 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

So... how does everyone feel about professional ISF calibration? I have never looked into such a thing, but I would really like to make my set look as good as possible. I have heard pretty well respected people say that comparitively this set (61A750) looks AWESOME out of the box, so I wondered if people thought it was worth it or not. Any thoughts/experiences??

Are you happy with the calibration you are able to obtain yourself? How much is it worth to get that extra 5% of performance? And, after the "pro" if finished and headed down the road, will you already be fiddling with the controls to make it look the way you want?
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post #460 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

... And, after the "pro" if finished and headed down the road, will you already be fiddling with the controls to make it look the way you want?

This is a real possibility for a lot of people because a "properly" calibrated display is typically darker and has less "pop" than the typical user expects. Calibrators will caution that you should watch the display for a few days to get accustomed to it before fiddling. But, for some, it's just not what they want and there goes $300 - $400 down the drain.

don...

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post #461 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

So... how does everyone feel about professional ISF calibration? I have never looked into such a thing, but I would really like to make my set look as good as possible. I have heard pretty well respected people say that comparitively this set (61A750) looks AWESOME out of the box, so I wondered if people thought it was worth it or not. Any thoughts/experiences??

While I calibrated my own with a I1 and Calman I think there are a couple of things to look for.

1. How does skin color compare to a good photo.
2. Can you see the lapel outlines on a black suit.

Not all sources will be good so you have to watch a while before making any decision. A lot of over the air high definition.

If both of these are satisfactory you probably won't gain a lot. There are quite a few default User Settings that need changing.
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post #462 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahull View Post

I leave mine on medium too. To reduce the effect of the contrast at night yet be plenty bright in daylight in windowed room I use a daylight florescent light light as a back light and it really reduces nighttime eye strain (cheap and dirty but it works). While not the same thing they have used LEDs on instrument panels for years running 24/7. A lower setting would reduce temperature the killer of electronics.

I've played with this a bit, and have chosen to leave the LED control on auto. Using a wide variety of still images to check, it invariably looks better that way. Particularly on darker scenes, where it maintains contrast and brightness as well as detail. This may of course have as much to do with my other settings. But it clearly behaves differently on lighter vs darker scenes.
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post #463 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

On all my gray screens and 100% white screens (GetGray), I cannot get the whole screen to be true white. There is a pure white band all across the center, but top 40% and bottom 30% are bluish tinted. I can change it a little by dropping gamma or fiddling with the "while balance", but can't make the blue go away. My other settings are near to the posted settings from Mike_Pro (movie), and I confirmed these with GetGray.

Any suggestions on what to do to get pure white all across the screen? It doesn't seem too noticeable on movies, but is very obvious on gray or white screens.

I discovered that this "bright band" effect is greatly increased when viewing from a verticle angle. That is, if your screen is exactly perpendicular to your line of sight, the effect is much less. That, plus viewing with your line of sight level to the center of the screen. But simply tilting my monitor to be perpendicular to my line of sight really helps. My monitor sits a bit high, so when I kick back on the sofa, my eyes are just a few inches above level with the bottom of the screen. Tipping the monitor forward to be perpendicular made a big difference, and it only took about a 3/8" shim to do it.
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post #464 of 15734 Old 06-11-2008, 10:30 PM
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Thanks to all who have contributed to helping each other out. It's made my investment soooo much better!



Here's mine! Hope others post pics, it's interesting to see how people set up their stuff.

Features Infinity Interlude series 50 with powered 10" subs peak 500 watts each. Matching center channel. Surrounds jbl North Ridge. My beloved Harmon Kardon DPR 1001. Directv. Samsung upconverting DVD. Display is my new Samsung LED DLP 61" HL61A750, and of course the XBOX 360.
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post #465 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbolader View Post

Just curious...What FW version do you have on your set? I have 1005.3. Maybe operation of the Auto LED control varies one FW rev to another.

Would have been nice if Samsung made the signal tracking mode selectable by level. For me, the Max setting that is the basis of Auto on my unit is way WAY too bright in my room.

I have the same firmware version. I did not mean to get anyone mixed up on the brightness of the screen, I am only referring to the output level of the LED's during certain scenes. For me also, the auto setting is way too bright..

Tonight while I was playing around with it, I paused a movie in a darker scene and started changing the LED levels. The picture did in fact darken up a slight bit when it was set to auto when I had the above scene paused. Also when it is set to auto, I have noticed that the blacks in dark scenes can look darker. I believe this is akin to auto iris control on bulb TV's. I do believe that this is how Samsung arrives at their 10,000:1 contrast ratio..
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post #466 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donb1948 View Post

This is a real possibility for a lot of people because a "properly" calibrated display is typically darker and has less "pop" than the typical user expects. Calibrators will caution that you should watch the display for a few days to get accustomed to it before fiddling. But, for some, it's just not what they want and there goes $300 - $400 down the drain.

Thanks for the opinions guys. I just want to get to the point where I don't fiddle with it so much. Last night I went back to the settings that Charles R recommended, with having Dynamic Contrast on HIGH and brightness like 40 something and contrast 85 and LED on MIN. It helps keep the whites from booming so much, and I still maintained the black level that I want. I was using the recommended settings on the front of this page for a while. But the whites just hurt my eyes and from scene to scene it seemed like there was black crush, then none (varying from scene to scene). I just don't wanna fiddle with it so much lol
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post #467 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 06:16 AM
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Got it from Best Buy. My bro works there, so I got it for:

$2,212 and it includes 4 yr PSP Best Buy warranty.

Not too bad, I pick it up today after work. Can't wait!

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post #468 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jkeener71 View Post

Got it from Best Buy. My bro works there, so I got it for:

$2,212 and it includes 4 yr PSP Best Buy warranty.

Not too bad, I pick it up today after work. Can't wait!

SWEET! I just paid 2400 for the 61" with the warranty. Bro hooked you up!
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post #469 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahull View Post

While I calibrated my own with a I1 and Calman I think there are a couple of things to look for.

1. How does skin color compare to a good photo.
2. Can you see the lapel outlines on a black suit.

Not all sources will be good so you have to watch a while before making any decision. A lot of over the air high definition.

If both of these are satisfactory you probably won't gain a lot. There are quite a few default User Settings that need changing.

I just finished calibrating my 61A750 with Spyder2 and HCFR. I had orginally thought that the PQ was outstanding out of the box, but after watching Pirates of the Caribbean: At Worlds End I noticed alot of color errors including a strong green push. The intial settings have siginificant grayscale tracking problems, specifically underdriven red in the higher grays 60% +. After calibration I am awed by the realism of the picture:
1. No more color errors
2. No oversaturated colors
3. No Crushing of Blacks
3. No blooming
3. Better perceived depth of field

I would definitely recommend ISF calibration or be adventurous and invest about $100 in a colorimeter and GetGray and DIY.
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post #470 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

Thanks for the opinions guys. I just want to get to the point where I don't fiddle with it so much. Last night I went back to the settings that Charles R recommended, with having Dynamic Contrast on HIGH and brightness like 40 something and contrast 85 and LED on MIN. It helps keep the whites from booming so much, and I still maintained the black level that I want. I was using the recommended settings on the front of this page for a while. But the whites just hurt my eyes and from scene to scene it seemed like there was black crush, then none (varying from scene to scene). I just don't wanna fiddle with it so much lol

Hmmm.. if you experienced black crush, then no black crush on some scenes, I wonder if you were bitten by the bug where Black Adjust and Dynamic Contrast get stuck on, even if they say off. This seems to happen when you go from Standard to Movie mode. To fix it, you just need to change Black Adjust to some other setting, and then set it back to off, (same for Dynamic Contrast). Maybe this is why you had inconsistent results with the main settings? Worth a try, although if you are happy with what you have now...
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post #471 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

Hmmm.. if you experienced black crush, then no black crush on some scenes, I wonder if you were bitten by the bug where Black Adjust and Dynamic Contrast get stuck on, even if they say off. This seems to happen when you go from Standard to Movie mode. To fix it, you just need to change Black Adjust to some other setting, and then set it back to off, (same for Dynamic Contrast). Maybe this is why you had inconsistent results with the main settings? Worth a try, although if you are happy with what you have now...

I am willing to admit that fluctuation of black crush/booming whites could be inconsistencies of the source material also (in this case, "the signal" on bluray which is awesome btw). I am also aware of that bug of black adjust and dynamic contrast getting stuck on, and it was not that. I do think that Dynamic Contrast helped stabalize the issues though. I also think I need to change the lighting in the area, maybe put a halogen light behind the tv (what would people recommend for lighting?). Changing the light might help my issue with booming whites while retaining better PQ. End story is I just don't wanna mess with it all time! lol

From what I gather though, it seems like you (Mike_pro) are completely against Dynamic Contrast huh? If you don't mind me asking, what is the reason? I mean in all honesty I am almost always against artificially enhancing stuff too. I would just like to know the method of Dynamic Contrast, if I remember correctly I think Charles R said it was adjusting the Iris of the light source. I just wondered if you had a better understanding of this than I do, is all.

P.S. - thanks for your opinions and everything guys, the forums here are a huge resource and its nice to see that everyone usually maintains a professional and helpful attitude
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post #472 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 04:33 PM
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Im torn between the PN58a550 and the hl61a750. both have their pros and cons. Can anyone offer some insight to help me with my decision?
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post #473 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indecision08 View Post

Im torn between the PN58a550 and the hl61a750. both have their pros and cons. Can anyone offer some insight to help me with my decision?

I looked at both, then went with the 61A750 due to price, (obviously), and the fact that it weights 1/2 as much and consumes a fraction of the power and doesn't bake the wall behind it. With careful calibration, the differences in the image quality are small.
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post #474 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpartin View Post

I just finished calibrating my 61A750 with Spyder2 and HCFR.

I used to own a Spyder2 until I read that it wasn't very accurate. Then it went on eBay. In the Calibration Forum is there a great thread which compares various sensors...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post12539772

"As I have written before, the performance of the Spyder2 is not suitable for serious work, especially with the availability of the much superior and quite inexpensive Display 2."

I will say it appeared to work fairly well with my projector. But then again I'm no professional!
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post #475 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 05:21 PM
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Same situation...Choosing between the 58A550/650 and 61A750. Ultimately I chose the DLP for the following reasons, in addition to pwr consumption, weight, etc:
1. Absolutely ZERO concerns about image retention.
2. Better ambient light attenuation.
3. More dynamic viewing experience. (To me, PDP still looks dim with bright video content.)
4. No noticeable flicker.
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post #476 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

I would just like to know the method of Dynamic Contrast, if I remember correctly I think Charles R said it was adjusting the Iris of the light source.

Actually I wondered out loud as well... based on its name and the varying light output I see when changing its setting I wondered if it was acting similar to a Dynamic Iris. However I don't have a real clue and even a couple of google searches didn't turn up anything.
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post #477 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

I looked at both, then went with the 61A750 due to price, (obviously), and the fact that it weights 1/2 as much and consumes a fraction of the power and doesn't bake the wall behind it. With careful calibration, the differences in the image quality are small.

I totally agree. In my case I started to do my homework and was convinced I would get a plasma. My budget became a reality check. The biggest advantage IMO is with the PN you avoid the silk screen effect (picture qaulity advantage to PN), and wide viewing angle if you need it. Everything else goes to the 61A750 it has a great picture and is bright as the sun if you want it. The decision is how much is the slight Picture Quality increase worth to you? In my case I couldn't justify the extra grand...

Let us know what you decide, I'm curious.
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post #478 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 05:39 PM
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I've been noticing on dark scenes with a light figure/source in the fore ground I'm getting alot of what I would call rainbow effect, where I can see the separate RBG when I move my eyes from one object to another, it doesn't seem to do it so much when alot of light is on screen, mostly whan an overly bright object is over top of a dark backround.

I've seen it on the 61 and 67" versions so I assume it's me. anyone else seeing this to with their sets? BTW i have the 67" led

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post #479 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 07:51 PM
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Can one of the expert eyes look at the below grid image and give me an expert opinion. I have a tech coming out on saturday to fix the Tilt and overscan. If it is not fixed i might return the set and try another one. The bright light in the middle is the Camera flash light ignore that.

http://maxupload.com/img/898B0999.jpg

Thank for the advice and help
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post #480 of 15734 Old 06-12-2008, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

it doesn't seem to do it so much when alot of light is on screen, mostly whan an overly bright object is over top of a dark backround.

I've seen it on the 61 and 67" versions so I assume it's me. anyone else seeing this to with their sets? BTW i have the 67" led

I see the same at rare times. I seem to notice it when it's bright white text on a black background and I happen to look away from the screen or look back to it. I didn't buy DLP in the past because I saw rainbows often on my friend's TV. I don't see them during normal viewing on this TV.
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