2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 160 - AVS Forum
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post #4771 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmosz1 View Post

It was stated on the CNET video review and I didn't realize it had been addressed on the written review. I appreciate the help.

Maybe they should redo their video review.
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post #4772 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 11:15 AM
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I was very concerned about the PQ of this TV when viewing standard digital. I had read so much about how poor SD looks on the new HD TVs. Since I only watch over-the-air local TV stations and standard DVDs, I was hesitant about buying a HD TV after what I had read. Well, I am VERY pleased with my 61A750. The PQ of SD on this TV is better than the PQ of my analog TV when using the digital-to-analog converter box. And I also found that there is a lot more HD programming out there than I realized so if SD picture quality is holding you back from buying this TV, don't wait any longer.
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post #4773 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dashwort77 View Post

Thanks for the advice. My center is about 20lbs, so I have the same concerns. I will try your idea when I get home. I haven't completely thrown out the idea of reconfiguring the Ikea stand I purchased.

My Energy C-C100 is 19.8 pounds and I use the Omnimount CCH1B on my 67" with no issues at all.
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post #4774 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronterry View Post

Turned my 67A750 on today, and WTF?



Tried unplugging it, changing inputs, nothing helps...Only has 400 something hours on the set.

Ron

Just to follow up on this issue. Replaced DMD board, and DLP chip solved the problem.
Me and the tech could actually see the gray bar still on the old DLP chip once removed. Still not sure if the Chip or the board was the culprit. Funny side note; we turned off the set while it was on 4:3, and you could see the 4:3 bars on the chip, couldn't make out an image though.

Ron
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post #4775 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 07:06 PM
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Ok So lets just get this out the way please. The new NXE update for xbox 360 includes an HDMI setting to adjust for better hdmi color quality. I'm WONDERING if anybody, anybody at all, with this set and a xbox 360 connecting via HDMI has some user settings I can play around with. Seems like little ol' xbox 360 user has gotten left out. And all we have is ps3 blu ray settings. [/font]
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post #4776 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9ks2k View Post

i found a used 61a750 at bestbuy. its the display one they used for prob a year now. its only 1100 marked down from 1600. guess they cant sell it. i have to check the date on it but you all think its worth getting? just a few scratches on the frame. should i see if they will replace the led lamp?

You can get a brand new one for $1500, sometimes even $1400, so $1100 for one in such condition may or may not be good. It's really your call.
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post #4777 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 08:18 PM
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Some screenshots from my 67A750...
Kungfu Panda blu ray 1080p from PS3 via HDMI
Sportsnet Leafs game 1080i from Rogers 4250HD box via HDMI
LL
LL
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post #4778 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoghUA View Post

The same menu that showed your firmware should also give a date of the firmware. Also, when you register your TV online with Samsung it will tell you the manufacture date. Can you let us know those two dates?

My firmware is 1007.4, the date listed in the firmware menu is 2008-09-19. According to the Samsung website, my TV was manufactured on 2008-10-31.

My mistake, the firmware is 1007.4 date 9/19/2008
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post #4779 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donb1948 View Post

Calibration is accomplished by measuring the properties of the display (color gamut, brightness, contrast, etc.) and then changing the properties via the service menu and/or user menus. Here are a couple of references that provide details on the process and tools: GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES and Basic Guide to Color Calibration using a CMS (updated and enhanced) . The first reference is the more detailed by far. If you have any questions concerning either document, their authors are very responsive to posts in the respective threads. Also, if you have general questions concerning calibration, consider posting in this forum: Display Calibration Forum. HIH.

anyone know which settings in the service menu corresponds to RGB High and Low for grayscale calibration?

my guess is:
+WB
P.MODE SELECT Dynamic
Sub Brightness 128
R_Offset 512
G_Offset 512
B_Offset 517
Sub Contrast 128
R_Gain 512
G_Gain 512
B_Gain 512


which settings need to be tweaked to adjust primary and secondary color points?
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post #4780 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 10:28 PM
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I am checking back in after a few more days with my set. I was noticing some possible color issues:

Quote:


I am noticing two colors that seem to stick out on the set. I am not sure whether I a responding to an increased color palette, or it's not real, or if I have just gotten program material (on blu ray discs, and many difference HD program materials) that highlights this by chance.

The most prominent is a dark blue, probably close to Prussian or French blue on an artists plalette. Watching some hi def football and other news type programs, this color shows up in the crowd a lot. And in other programs. Related to this, purple really pops too. I am just concerned that the set is shifting all darker blues to this color. Or maybe adding some red into these blues. The reds on the set also seem darker and richer than they should be on some sets. The overall effect of this is to make all program material look like it's been filmed with the same palette, and thus more artificial than natural. But again, my eyes might settle into this, or the effect may fade with time. I just hope this does not continue to bother me!

After a few more days of the set settling in, I am not noticing these issues anymore. I suspect I have been adjusting to the greater color range of the set. The color of the set is excellent, the black levels are also excellent. This is one great set.
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post #4781 of 15706 Old 12-10-2008, 11:09 PM
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The one issue I have with the 67 inch set is rainbow effect. I have always been susceptable to rainbow effect. Early DLPs were unwatchable to me, and very stressful to my eyes.

The Samsung LED RPTV has a different kind of rainbow effect, probably because the technology is different. The effect is red and blue lines on fast motion, or when the eyes or head move suddenly.

I only notice it at night, and it gets worse when I am tired. If I am really tired, even moderate motion on the screen causes the effect. I think that the reason it happens more when I am tired is that my eyes will be more wobbly (for lack of a more technical term).

I don't notice always, I would say just about 10% of the time I am watching it, and it's mostly after 11 pm.
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post #4782 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 06:26 AM
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What is your LED control set to, and what are your brightness and contrast settings set to for the input you are watching? Turning down the TV's light levels can help with some of your issues, especially at night. Are you using any room lighting, or just the TV on in the dark?

Another option is use some sort of backlighting when watching your TV in a dark room.
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post #4783 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post

anyone know which settings in the service menu corresponds to RGB High and Low for grayscale calibration?

my guess is:
+WB
P.MODE SELECT Dynamic
Sub Brightness 128
R_Offset 512
G_Offset 512
B_Offset 517
Sub Contrast 128
R_Gain 512
G_Gain 512
B_Gain 512

which settings need to be tweaked to adjust primary and secondary color points?

You start in the CCA menu. You will also need some sort of calibration software and a measuring device. The CCA adjustment would go like this:

Turn off CCA
Go to the DDP3021 menu, choose the Test Pattern. You use the cursor right to display each of the primary colors. Measure the x,y, and Y(in cd/M) for each.

Go back to the CCA menu, and enter those numbers into the respective colors.

Scroll down to the Color Sensor Save option, and press the right cursor twice, and wait for the message to say OK. CCA should be on now. Hit the menu button on your remote to jump back to the CCA menu. Choose the WB Spread.

A tip from this thread Samsung Service Menu Calibration Guide has you first turning on Expert Mode, and setting it to Movie mode.

You tweak the P/S in the Desaturation menu. Be sure to set the Desaturation Mode in the menu to the Mode you are making adjustments to (Normal,Wide,RGB). Make all your measurements after exiting the Service Menu, and using the normal viewing settings for that input you are calibrating. Then go back into the Service Menu and put in your readings. Repeat until you get your P/S dialed in.
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post #4784 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuckers View Post

The one issue I have with the 67 inch set is rainbow effect. I have always been susceptable to rainbow effect. Early DLPs were unwatchable to me, and very stressful to my eyes.

The Samsung LED RPTV has a different kind of rainbow effect, probably because the technology is different. The effect is red and blue lines on fast motion, or when the eyes or head move suddenly.

I only notice it at night, and it gets worse when I am tired. If I am really tired, even moderate motion on the screen causes the effect. I think that the reason it happens more when I am tired is that my eyes will be more wobbly (for lack of a more technical term).

I don't notice always, I would say just about 10% of the time I am watching it, and it's mostly after 11 pm.

Same here - I often see it when there's a bright object against a darker background, and typically with green mixed in as well. For most material with lots of bright scenes (animated things in particular) it's a non-issue. But I also watch a lot of things that have dark and dimly-lit scenes, where it is far more noticeable. Not much can be done except for what others have suggested like bias or ambient lighting, or changing the LED setting.
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post #4785 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 09:47 AM
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What does everyone typically set white balance and gamma to? I've found that it seems to look best with gamma at +1, because any other setting gives the picture a somewhat "hazy" look to it. Colors look more solid with it set this way. There is some minor black crushing, but I'm trying to see if I can get around that with other settings. With white balance I don't see any difference between the various levels.
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post #4786 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theslug View Post

What does everyone typically set white balance and gamma to? I've found that it seems to look best with gamma at +1, because any other setting gives the picture a somewhat "hazy" look to it. Colors look more solid with it set this way. There is some minor black crushing, but I'm trying to see if I can get around that with other settings. With white balance I don't see any difference between the various levels.

I also have my Gamma set at +1, it seems to have added clarity and contrast. White balance seems like it makes a diff for a very split second, but then goes back to what it was. Maybe there are some extremely small differences but I surely can't see them. So I'm in your boat too
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post #4787 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 11:00 AM
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Does anyone know if there are any moving parts in this set? I hear something exactly like a noisy hard drive comming from the set.
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post #4788 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

White balance seems like it makes a diff for a very split second, but then goes back to what it was. Maybe there are some extremely small differences but I surely can't see them. So I'm in your boat too

That's exactly what mine does. It cycles through colors for a second and then seems to be the same as before. Can't quite figure out if anything really changes.
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post #4789 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 04:00 PM
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Just wanted to remind every buying new tv. Most credit cards extend warrany 1 yr. I called mine and they sent me a warranty registration. This is a good deal if not buying extended warranty. 67 will be at Fedex in town in the morning but they can't delivery until mon. Thought about going and getting but best wait and let it get to my door step. Hopefully he will take a tip to bring in the house.
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post #4790 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 04:08 PM
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I just ordered the 61A750 from Amazon with white glove shipping. I feel as though I got a pretty good deal. I've done a lot of researching. The only thing that worries me though is the black stripe problem. I've just read the post from ronterry about his. The person on Amazon who loves their set and posted photos suddenly got the black stripe too. I sure do hope Samsung solved this problem. Otherwise I'm pretty excited. I can't wait to watch "The Dark Knight" on blu-ray with this set.
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post #4791 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 05:06 PM
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Nobody else hearing noises coming from their 67" Its very loud, its not a buzzing it sounds just like a hard drive with a bad bearing. I have 3 Tivos and a DN recorder and this is the only noise I can hear even over quite spots in dialog.
Should I call tech support?
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post #4792 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9ks2k View Post

i found a used 61a750 at bestbuy. its the display one they used for prob a year now. its only 1100 marked down from 1600. guess they cant sell it. i have to check the date on it but you all think its worth getting? just a few scratches on the frame. should i see if they will replace the led lamp?

I agree with what was mentioned earlier, saying that basicallly it can be a huge mistake to buy a floor model. It has been on for who knows how many hours, been messed with by who knows how many people, and who knows what else has happened with it. Also, FYI, the led isn't a lamp. It's three colored lights, and when they go out, they don't get replaced. If they go out, it's time to start looking for a new TV.
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post #4793 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klyde View Post

Nobody else hearing noises coming from their 67" Its very loud, its not a buzzing it sounds just like a hard drive with a bad bearing. I have 3 Tivos and a DN recorder and this is the only noise I can hear even over quite spots in dialog.
Should I call tech support?

What is your LED setting on? If high or max, it will make a buzzing sound. If not, then you might have a bad fan bearing or something... Do these sets have a fan? Deffinatly call Samsung.
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post #4794 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 06:56 PM
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Is it true that there is a known service menu adjustment for black levels, like with the sxrd's?
I've read this here and there but cannot find the info. in this thread as the search is too broad in terms.
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post #4795 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian1313 View Post

I agree with what was mentioned earlier, saying that basicallly it can be a huge mistake to buy a floor model. It has been on for who knows how many hours, been messed with by who knows how many people, and who knows what else has happened with it. Also, FYI, the led isn't a lamp. It's three colored lights, and when they go out, they don't get replaced. If they go out, it's time to start looking for a new TV.

Led is on Med, and I can also hear it from 10ft with soft dialogue.
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post #4796 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 08:37 PM
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New poster here, but been lurking since thoughts of buying a Hitachi f59 series entered my head a couple years ago. That never happened because I thought I'd wait 'til DLP technology advanced and came down to a price I could afford. That didn't happen anytime soon and I honestly regretted not buying that CRT rear pro! Anyway, thought I was going to pick up a XMas special Panny Plasma about now, but stumbled across the Sammy LEDs and noticed the prices are not far off. Given the drawbacks of DLP compared to plasma (and the pluses) I think this is what I want, BUT:

I was talking to someone in BB today looking at the same set and he said his friend has the same set for about a year. He said his friend LOVES the TV, but he did have a problem with it and they had to replace the LAMP. I told him it was LED driven and there was no lamp, but he said yes - it was the LED assembly that needed replacing. I guess its conceivable that the platlight deal could go out prematurely, but now its scaring me back to a smaller-than-I-want plasma!

Anyone here on this forum have any issues or replaced the actual LED engine thingy? Now I'm looking at warranties.
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post #4797 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 08:43 PM
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The screen on the left side edge is loose, when gently push the screen with a finger, I can see the screen moves back and forth, about 1/8 " away from the frame. Does this normal? The top, bottom and right edges are tight.
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post #4798 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbstrom View Post

New poster here, but been lurking since thoughts of buying a Hitachi f59 series entered my head a couple years ago. That never happened because I thought I'd wait 'til DLP technology advanced and came down to a price I could afford. That didn't happen anytime soon and I honestly regretted not buying that CRT rear pro! Anyway, thought I was going to pick up a XMas special Panny Plasma about now, but stumbled across the Sammy LEDs and noticed the prices are not far off. Given the drawbacks of DLP compared to plasma (and the pluses) I think this is what I want, BUT:

I was talking to someone in BB today looking at the same set and he said his friend has the same set for about a year. He said his friend LOVES the TV, but he did have a problem with it and they had to replace the LAMP. I told him it was LED driven and there was no lamp, but he said yes - it was the LED assembly that needed replacing. I guess its conceivable that the platlight deal could go out prematurely, but now its scaring me back to a smaller-than-I-want plasma!

Anyone here on this forum have any issues or replaced the actual LED engine thingy? Now I'm looking at warranties.

In many, many pages and posts, we have hardly ever heard of the LED assembly failing prematurely. It is not by any means likely, and I would not worry about it at all.

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post #4799 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

I also have my Gamma set at +1, it seems to have added clarity and contrast. White balance seems like it makes a diff for a very split second, but then goes back to what it was. Maybe there are some extremely small differences but I surely can't see them. So I'm in your boat too

The Wall-E Blu Ray has a Gamma test in the extras and +1, +2, or +3 seem to be the best Gama settings with my set up (67A750, PS3 via HDMI) (in the test you are asked to squint your eyes and view a bunch of square boxes which are supposed to blend in with the background) -3, -2, -1, 0 Gama setting will not make the boxes blend.

I have decided to keep Gama on +1
brightness 48
contrast 90
hdmi black level: normal

ps3 settings
BD/DVD Video Output Format (HMDI): Auto
RGB Range: Full
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post #4800 of 15706 Old 12-11-2008, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbstrom View Post

New poster here, but been lurking since thoughts of buying a Hitachi f59 series entered my head a couple years ago. That never happened because I thought I'd wait 'til DLP technology advanced and came down to a price I could afford. That didn't happen anytime soon and I honestly regretted not buying that CRT rear pro! Anyway, thought I was going to pick up a XMas special Panny Plasma about now, but stumbled across the Sammy LEDs and noticed the prices are not far off. Given the drawbacks of DLP compared to plasma (and the pluses) I think this is what I want, BUT:

I was talking to someone in BB today looking at the same set and he said his friend has the same set for about a year. He said his friend LOVES the TV, but he did have a problem with it and they had to replace the LAMP. I told him it was LED driven and there was no lamp, but he said yes - it was the LED assembly that needed replacing. I guess its conceivable that the platlight deal could go out prematurely, but now its scaring me back to a smaller-than-I-want plasma!

Anyone here on this forum have any issues or replaced the actual LED engine thingy? Now I'm looking at warranties.

I never read a review on the PhlatLight or the HL67A750 before June of 08. I did not think they even made a TV back in 07 with LED instead of a lamp. I thought production began in May of this year so how could anyone have had a problem with it a year ago? More BS from BB or correct me if I am mistaken.

I have on ordered a new HL67A750 from Abe's with delivery due this next Tuesday. I had not planned to purchase their warranty, but due to a deal they offered me I could not refuse their MACK 5 year service contract (really 4 years since it starts with purchase date). Was impressed with a package Rick (extension 208) put together in a phone call to confirm my "On-Line" purchase with coupon prices not offer "On-Line". Might want to investigate.

Samsung HL67A750 RPTV, TWO 2013 Hoppers w/Sling, OTA Digital Dongle, My Book Essential 750Gb EXTERNAL hard drive, ONKYO HT-S9100 THX speakers & ONKYO TX-NR616 A/V receiver, ONKYO DV-BD606 Blu-Ray Disc Player, Harmony ONE Remote, GOOGLE TV, w 4 other TV's (LCD & LED).
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